gas type DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service User Guide

FILTER - ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow,
disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation
recommends a Mopar
or equivalent oil filter be used.
1. Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
2. Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter (3).
3. Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove it
from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
4. When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter
boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill.
Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with
filter.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
1. Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket (2) with engine oil.
2. Thread filter (3) onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, hand tighten
filter one half turn, or 180°,do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine.
Inspect for oil leaks.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Directed piston cooling nozzles
under piston, bad fit into main
carrier.11. Check directed piston cooling nozzles
position.
12. Loose oil rifle plug with saddle-jet
style nozzles12.Tighten oil rifle plug.
13. Loose directed piston cooling
nozzle.13. Tighten directed piston cooling nozzle.
14. Both J-jet and saddle jet style
cooling nozzle installed.14. Install correct style jet.
LUBRICATING OIL
PRESSURE TOO HIGH1. Pressure switch/gauge not
operating properly.1. Verify pressure switch is functioning
correctly. If not, replace switch/gauge.
ENGINE BREATHER
RESTRICTED2. Engine running too cold. 2. Refer to Coolant Temperature Below
Normal (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Oil viscosity too thick. 3. Make sure the correct oil is being used.
(Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
4. Oil pressure relief valve stuck
closed or binding4. Check and replace valve.
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS 1. External leaks. 1. Visually inspect for oil leaks.Repair as
required.
2. Crankcase being overfilled. 2. Verify that the correct dipstick is being
used.
3. Incorrect oil specification or
viscosity.3. (a) Make sure the correct oil is being
used (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(b) Look for reduced viscosity from dilution
with fuel.
(c) Review/reduce oil change intervals.
4. Oil cooler leak 4. Check and replace the oil cooler.
5. High blow-by forcing oil out the
breather.5. Check the breather tube area for signs of
oil loss. Perform the required repairs.
6. Turbocharger leaking oil to the air
intake.6. Inspect the air ducts for evidence of oil
transfer. Repair as required.
COMPRESSION KNOCKS 1. Air in the fuel system. 1. Identify location of air leak and repair. Do
not bleed high pressure fuel system.
2. Poor quality fuel or water/gasoline
contaminated fuel.2. Verify by operating from a temporary
tank with good fuel. Clean and flush the
fuel tank. Replace fuel/water separator filter.
3. Engine overloaded. 3. Verify the engine load rating is not being
exceeded.
4. Improperly operating injectors. 4. Check and replace misfiring/inoperative
injectors.
EXCESSIVE VIBRATION 1. Loose or broken engine mounts. 1. Replace engine mounts.
2. Damaged fan or improperly
operating accessories.2. Check and replace the vibrating
components.

12. Place a rag over the compression test tool fitting. Crank the engine for2–3 seconds to purge any fuel that may
have drained into the cylinder when the injector was removed.
13. Connect the compression test gauge.
14. Crank the engine for 5 seconds and record the pressure reading. Repeat this step three times and calculate the
average of the three readings.
NOTE: The minimum cylinder pressure is 350 psi. Cylinder pressure should be within 20% from cylinder to
cylinder.
15. Combustion pressure leakage can be checked if cylinder pressure is below the specification. Perform the leak-
age test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer instructions.
16. Upon completion of the test check and erase any engine related fault codes.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss
1. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature.
2. Disconnect injector harness connectors.
3. Disconnect breather tube and breather drain tube from valve cover.
4. Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
5. Disconnect harness from injectors.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover carrier gasket. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
7. BringthecylindertobetestedtoTDC.
8. Remove the high pressure fuel line between the cylinder head and the fuelrail for the cylinder to be tested.
9. Install capping Tool 9011 onto the rail.
10. Remove the high pressure connector nut and high pressure connector with Tool 9015.
11. Remove the exhaust and intake rocker lever.
12. Use Tool # 9010 to remove the injector and copper sealing washer.
13. Install compression test Tool # 9007 into the injector bore.
14. Connect the leakage tester and perform the leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester
manufacturer’s instructions.
15. Upon completion of the test check and erase any engine related fault codes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when apply-
ing form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material
unless specified.Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage
while too much can result in spill-overwhich can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the
proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar
Engine RTV
GEN II, Mopar
ATF-RTV, and MoparGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not
be used in place of the other.
MOPAR
ENGINE RTV GEN II

MoparEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
AT F R T V
Mopar
ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties
to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-
able in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year thismaterial will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
GASKET MAKER
Mopar
Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when
squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR
GASKET SEALANT
Mopar
Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material isrecommended for sealing
threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layersteel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar
Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can
w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care but it’s easier than using precut gaskets.
Mopar
Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3
mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.)
drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant maybe removed with a shop towel. Com-
ponents should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both
surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can shouldbeusedonengineswithmulti-
layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consistsof:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE—HYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what causedthe problem), follow the steps below.
1. Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the battery.
2. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.

INSPECTION - CONNECTING ROD
Inspect the connecting rod for damage and wear. The
I-Beam section of the connecting rod cannot have
dents or other damage. Damage to this part can
cause stress risers which will progress to breakage.
Measure the connecting rod pin bore (1). The maxi-
mum diameter is 40.042 mm (1.5765 inch), minimum
diameter is 40.019 mm (1.5756 inch). If out of limits,
replace the connecting rod.
INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine oil.
2. Generously lubricate the rings and piston skirts
with clean engine oil.
3. Orientate the rings on the piston (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
4. Compress the rings using a piston ring compressor
tool(1).Ifusingastrap-typeringcompressor,
make sure the inside end of the strap does not
hook on a ring gap and break the ring.
5. Bar the crankshaft so the rod journal for the piston
to be installed is at BDC(Bottom Dead Center).
6. Make sure the front of the piston is oriented prop-
erly according to the marking on the top of the pis-
ton and the connecting rod is oriented properly.
7. Position the piston and rod assemblyinto the cylinder bore with the front of the piston oriented properly accord-
ing to the stamping in the top of the piston. Use care when you install the piston and connecting rod so the
cylinder bore is not damaged. The long side of the connecting rod must be installed on the intake side of the
engine.
8. Push the piston into the bore until the top of the piston is approximately50 mm (2 inch) below the top of the
block. Carefully pull the connecting rod onto the crankshaft journal.
9. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod bolts.
10.For fractured/split type connecting rods,thelongendoftherodmustbeinstalledtowardstheintakesideof
the engine.

FILTER - ENGINE OIL
REMOVAL
1. Clean the area around the oil filter head. Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter wrench.
2. Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter head. Make sure
it is removed.
INSTALLATION
1. Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before installation. Use the same type oil that will be used in the engine.
2. Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the sealing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort the threads or damage the filter element seal.
3. Install the filter until it contacts the sealing surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an additional
1⁄2turn.

STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift (4) and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers (2) or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting
as restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder
block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly
coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar
Stud and
Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned
of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug
into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least
0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when apply-
ing form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material
unless specified.Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage
while too much can result in spill-overwhich can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the
proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar
Engine RTV
GEN II, Mopar
ATF-RTV, and MoparGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not
be used in place of the other.
MOPAR
ENGINE RTV GEN II
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
AT F R T V
Mopar
ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties
to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-
able in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year thismaterial will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
GASKET MAKER
Mopar
Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when
squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR
BED PLATE SEALANT
Mopar
Bed Plate Sealant is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal
the area between the bedplate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these
components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will
rapidly cure when heat is applied.
MOPAR
GASKET SEALANT
Mopar
Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material isrecommended for sealing
threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layersteel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This

5. Inspect the push rods. Replace worn or bent push
rods as necessary.
6. Install push rods. Install rocker arms and pedestal
assemblies into their original positions. Ensure
push rods are seated properly under each rocker
arm.Tightenrockerarmboltsto35Nꞏm(26ft.
lbs.).
7. Install exhaust manifold(s) and gasket(s) (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
8. Install exhaust manifold heat shields.
9. Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
10. Position and install the oil level indicator tube.
Tighten fastener to 11 Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.).
11. Connect CCV hoses to cylinder head covers.
12. Install the spark plug wires and plug wire retain-
ers.
13. Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MAN-
IFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLATION).
14. Raise and support the vehicle.
15. Connect the exhaust systemto the exhaust manifolds.
16. Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Fill engine oil to the proper level (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION),
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICATIONS).
19. Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - FILLING COOLING
SYSTEM).
20. Connect negative battery cable.
21. Install the air cleaner cover, throttle inlet duct and connect the IAT sensor and CCV hose.
22. Start engine and inspect for leaks.

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CHECKING ENGINE OIL LEVEL
The best time to check engine oil level is after the
vehicle has sat overnight. If the engine has been run-
ning, allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 min-
utes before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level ground
will improve the accuracy of the oil level reading.
Remove the engine oil indicator. The indicator is cali-
brated for 1 quart within the SAFE zone.
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL. CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY INTER-
NAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED SKIN WITH
SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR SOLVENTS,
HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL PROPERLY. CON-
TACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER INYOUR
AREA.
Change engine oil and filter at mileage and time intervals described in LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
1. Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
2. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
3. Open hood, remove oil fill cap.
4. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5. Remove underbody front shield
6. Place a suitable drain pan under oil pan drain plug.
7. Remove drain plug from oil pan and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other
damage. Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged.
8. Install drain plug in crankcase.
9. Remove oil filter and replace with new.
10. Install under body shield.
11. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES
- DESCRIPTION) and amount of engine oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of a sand-cast aluminum alloy. The cylinder block has interference-fit cast iron cylinder
liners. The cylinder liners are thermally installed during block manufacturing; they are not serviceable items.
Six iron main bearing caps use four bolts per cap; two vertical and two horizontal. A crankshaft oil scraper is
attached to the main bearing caps via extended main bearing cap bolts and nuts.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings.
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CAUTION: Remove all gasket material from cylinder block using a plastic gasket scraper and MoparBrake
Parts Cleaner or the equivalent, this will prevent damage to the cylinder block.
1. When cleaning the cylinder block, remove the oil gallery plugs at the front and rear of the block.
2. Spray compressed air into all oil gallery passages to ensure they are clear of blockage.
3. Use a wooden or plastic scraper and MOPAR
Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent to remove the old gasket.
4. Clean the oil passages in the crankshaft with a brush.