engine coolant DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Manual PDF
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2006, Model line: RAM SRT-10, Model: DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006Pages: 5267, PDF Size: 68.7 MB
Page 1496 of 5267

MoparGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when
squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR
GASKET SEALANT
Mopar
Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material isrecommended for sealing
threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layersteel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar
Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can
w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care but it’s easier than using precut gaskets.
Mopar
Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3
mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.)
drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant maybe removed with a shop towel. Com-
ponents should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both
surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can shouldbeusedonengineswithmulti-
layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface prep-
aration must be performed, especially with the use of
aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel
cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
Metal scraper (3).
Abrasive pad (1) or paper to clean cylinder block
and head.
High speed power tool (1) with an abrasive pad
orawirebrush.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets
require a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
Plastic or wood scraper.
Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow).
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing sur-
faces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bris-
tle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care.
Page 1498 of 5267

17. Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the fol-
lowing points :
Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (4)
Fuel Injectors
Throttle Position (TPS) Switch (2)
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor (3)
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Coil Over Plugs
Crankshaft Position Sensor
18. Remove coil over plugs.
19. Release fuel rail pressure.
20. Remove fuel rail and secure away from engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick
connect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
21. Remove the PCV hose.
22. Remove the breather hoses.
23. Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
24. Disconnect knock sensors.
25. Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
26. Remove intake manifold.
27. Install engine lifting fixture,special tool#8247, using original fasteners from the removed intake manifold, and
fuel rail. Torque to factory specifications.
NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate before removing engine.
28. Secure the left and right engine wiring harnesses away from engine.
29. Raise vehicle.
30. Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
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25. Connect the engine wiring harness at the follow-
ing points :
Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor (4)
Fuel Injectors
Throttle Position (TPS) Switch (2)
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor (3)
Engine Oil Pressure Switch
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Coil Over Plugs
Crankshaft Position Sensor
26. Reinstall the radiator/cooling module assembly.
27. Connect lower radiator hose.
28. Connect upper radiator hose.
29. Connect throttle and speed control cables.
30. Install the heater hose assembly.
31. Install coolant recovery bottle.
32. Install the power steering pump.
33. Install the generator (3).
Page 1517 of 5267

HEAD-CYLINDER-LEFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent
water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Loss of engine power
Engine misfiring
Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are:
Engine overheating
Loss of coolant
Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacentcylinders, follow the procedures in Cyl-
inder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An engine cylinder head
gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a50 - 70% reduction in compression pres-
sure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRESSURE CAP
REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine andallow it to warm up until thermostat
opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST.EXCESSIVE
PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE
POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester’s
pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent.
Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
Page 1536 of 5267

HEAD-CYLINDER-RIGHT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the followingitems.
1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be
spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed runningupto1hourmayberequired.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Airingestedintooilduetobrokenorcrackedoilpumppickup.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle.
Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel firm when pressed quickly. When pressed
very slowly, lash adjusters should collapse.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are full of oil. This can be verified by little plunger travel when lash
adjuster is depressed quickly.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
7. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
8. Remove the fan shroud (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
10. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (2).
Page 1553 of 5267

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.
Page 1600 of 5267

MANIFOLD-INTAKE
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (2) is made of a composite mate-
rial and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long runners
which maximizes low end torque. The intake manifold
uses single plane sealing which consist of six individ-
ual press in place port gaskets to prevent leaks. The
throttle body attaches directly to the intake manifold.
Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake
to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifoldvacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may
not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN ADIRECT LINE
WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
3. If engine RPM’S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Referto FUEL SYSTEM for component locations.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
Page 1601 of 5267

5. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
12. Remove fuel rail.
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
15. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
16. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
17. Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
REMOVAL).
18. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
19. Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
1. Install intake manifold gaskets.
2. Install intake manifold.
3. Install intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in
sequence shown in to 12 Nꞏm (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
5. Install throttle body assembly.
6. Connect throttle cable and speed control cable to
throttle body.
7. Install fuel rail.
8. Install ignition coil towers.
9. Position and install heater hoses and tubes onto intake manifold.
10. Install the heater hoses to the heater core and engine front cover.
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
Ignition coil towers
Fuel injectors
Page 1628 of 5267

Ensurethebatteryiscompletelychargedandtheenginestartermotorisingood operating condition. Otherwise the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
4. Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUTDOWNRELAY-
REMOVAL).
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDERCOMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiatorcap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain
483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer’s instructions. Set piston of
cylinder to be tested at TDC compression,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle
body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the
cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
Page 1629 of 5267

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuckorbrokenpistonrings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions notdetected and remedied by routine main-
tenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g., engineidles rough and stalls) or mechanical
(e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)—MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specificengine malfunctions that can not be iso-
lated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided within the
following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Cylinder Combustion Pressure LeakageTest (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSISAND TESTING).
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKEMANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consistsof:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when apply-
ing form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material
unless specified.Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage
while too much can result in spill-overwhich can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the
proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar
Engine RTV
GEN II, Mopar
ATF-RTV, and MoparGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not
be used in place of the other.
MOPAR
ENGINE RTV GEN II
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
AT F R T V
Mopar
ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties
to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-