DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY 2001 Owners Manual

(8) Install spring plate bolts (Fig. 34). Tighten
bolts to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install lower shock absorber bolt.Do not
tighten at this time.
(10) Remove jack under axle.
(11) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque
shown below. Then tighten the retaining bolts for
the inner to outer half of the spring hanger to the
torque specification listed below. This sequence
must be followed to properly seat the bushings into
the springs and to avoid bending the spring hanger.
(12) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Tighten rear spring shackle pin nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Tighten rear spring shackle inner to outer
half retaining bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPRING MOUNTS - FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 38).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
bushing replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
(3) Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(4) Remove four bolts securing leaf spring front
mounting bracket to the body (Fig. 38).
(5) Using jack,slowlylower rear axle, permitting
the forward end of rear spring to hang down. Lower
it enough to allow access to spring pivot bolt. It maybe necessary to place a wooden block between the
spring and vehicle to hold forward end of the spring
in place.
(6) Remove leaf spring forward pivot bolt, then
remove mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring mounting bracket over spring
eye and install pivot bolt through center of bushing
from theoutboardside.
NOTE: The pivot bolt must be installed from the
outboard side to allow proper bracket to body
mounting.
(2) Install the nut on the pivot bolt and lightly
tighten. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time.
(3) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 38). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
Fig. 38 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
2 - 42 REARRS
SPRING - FWD (Continued)
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shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(5) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(6) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPRING MOUNTS - REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the attaching nuts and bolts from the
leaf spring rear shackle (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40).(2) Install a jackstand under the side of the axle
having the leaf spring mount removed. Using the
jackstand, support the weight of the axle and leaf
spring.
(3) Remove the lower mounting bolt from the
shock absorber.
(4) Remove the bolts attaching the leaf spring rear
mount to the body of the vehicle (Fig. 41).
(5) Lower the jackstand and the rear of the leaf
spring. Remove the shackle from the leaf spring
bushing.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque.
Then tighten the retaining bolts for the inner to
outer half of the spring hanger to the specified
torque. This sequence must be followed to avoid
bending the spring hanger.
(1) For installation, reverse removal procedure. Do
not tighten rear spring shackle nuts fully until vehi-
cle is lowered and the full vehicle weight is applied
to the rear wheels. Tighten rear spring mount bolts
to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.). Tighten shackle nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 39 Leaf Spring Shackle Nuts (FWD)
1 - SHACKLE PLATE
Fig. 40 All-Wheel-Drive Rear Suspension
1 - SHACKLE
2 - REAR MOUNT (HANGER)
3 - LEAF SPRING (MULTI-LEAF)
4 - AWD REAR AXLE
Fig. 41 Rear Spring Mount
1 - LEAF SPRING MOUNT
RSREAR2-43
SPRING MOUNTS - FRONT (Continued)
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STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
(1) Front-wheel-drive models use a stabilizer bar
that is mounted behind the rear axle. All-wheel-drive
models use a stabilizer bar that is mounted in front
of the rear axle.
The stabilizer bar interconnects both sides of the
rear axle and attaches to the rear frame rails using 2
rubber isolated link arms.
Both type stabilizer bars have the same basic com-
ponents. Attachment to the rear axle tube, and rear
frame rails is through rubber-isolated bushings.
The 2 rubber isolated links are connected to the
rear frame rails by brackets. These brackets are
bolted to the bottom of the frame rails.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
to reduce body roll.
REMOVAL - AWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each end of the bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle (Fig. 42).
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
(5) Remove the bushings from the bar utilizing the
slits in the bushings.
(6) If the links need to be serviced, remove the
upper link arm to bracket bolt. Then remove link
arm from frame rail attaching bracket.
REMOVAL - FWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each side of bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - AWD
(1) Install bushings on stabilizer bar utilizing slits
in bushings.
(2) Install the stabilizer bar on the rear axle (Fig.
42).(3) Install the bushing retainers over bushings and
aligning bolt holes.
(4) Install bushing retainers bolts. Do not tighten
at this time.
(5) Install bolts connecting links to stabilizer bar.
Do not tighten at this time.
(6) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
INSTALLATION - FWD
(1) Lift the stabilizer bar onto the rear axle and
install the two retainer mounting bolts. DO NOT
TIGHTEN.
(2) Install the bolts attaching the stabilizer bar
links to the stabilizer bar. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
(3) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 42 REAR STABILIZER BAR MOUNTING TO AWD
AXLE
1 - RETAINER
2 - BUSHING
3 - AWD AXLE
4 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - 44 REARRS
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TRACK BAR
DESCRIPTION
On front-wheel-drive applications of this vehicle
that are equipped with single leaf rear springs, a
track bar is used on the rear axle (Fig. 1).
The track bar connects the rear axle to the frame/
body of the vehicle. The track bar is isolated from the
body of the vehicle by an isolator bushing located in
each end of the track bar.
OPERATION
The track bar prevents excessive side-to-side move-
ment of the rear axle. The track bar is used to keep
the location of the axle in the correct position for
optimum handling and control of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut and bolt mounting the track
bar to the rear axle (Fig. 43) .
(2) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the track
bar to the track bar mount on the body of the vehicle.
Remove the track bar from the track bar mount.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar first into the body mount
for the track bar (Fig. 44) . Install the track bar boltwith the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle (Fig. 45) . Do not tighten.
(2) Install the track bar into its mounting bracket
on the rear axle (Fig. 43) . Install the track bar bolt
with the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle. Do not tighten.
(3) Lower the vehicle to the ground until the full
weight of the vehicle is supported by the wheels.
Tighten both track bar attaching bolts to a torque of
95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 43 Track Bar Mounting To Axle
1 - LOWER TRACK BAR BOLT INSTALLATION
Fig. 44 Track Bar Installation
1 - TRACK BAR REPLACEMENT
Fig. 45 Track Bar Bolt Installation
1 - TRACK BAR BOLT
RSREAR2-45
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION...........................46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................49
SUSPENSION AND STEERING............49STANDARD PROCEDURE..................51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT....................51
CURB HEIGHT MEASUREMENT...........54
SPECIFICATIONS........................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.
²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
For example, if the left camber is +0.3É and the right
camber is 0.0É, the cross camber would be +0.3É.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
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CASTER
Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steer-
ing knuckle in reference to the position of the upper
and lower ball joints. Caster is measured in degrees
of angle relative to a true vertical center line. This
line is viewed from the side of the tire and wheel
assembly (Fig. 2).
²Forward tilt (upper ball joint ahead of lower)
results in a negative caster angle.
²Rearward tilt (upper ball joint trailing lower)
results in a positive caster angle.
Although caster does not affect tire wear, a caster
imbalance between the two front wheels may cause
the vehicle to lead to the side with the least positive
caster.
CROSS CASTER
Cross caster is the difference between left and
right caster.
TOE
Toe is the inward or outward angle of the wheels
as viewed from above the vehicle (Fig. 3).
²Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are closer together than the
rear edges.
²Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the
rear edges.Toe-in and toe-out can occur at the front wheels
and the rear wheels.
Toe is measured in degrees or inches. The mea-
surement identifies the amount that the front of the
wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out). Toe
is measured at the spindle height. Zero toe means
the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same
axle are equally distant.
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel's turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out-
board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing
Fig. 2 Caster
Fig. 3 Toe
1 - TOE-IN
2 - TOE-OUT
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-47
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through
a turn.
DYNAMIC TOE PATTERN
Dynamic toe pattern is the inward and outward toe
movement of the front and rear tires through the
suspension's jounce and rebound travel. As the vehi-
cle's suspension moves up and down, the toe pattern
varies. Toe pattern is critical in controlling the direc-
tional stability of the vehicle while in motion. Front
and rear dynamic toe pattern is preset by the factory
at the time the vehicle is assembled.
It is not necessary to check or adjust front or rear
dynamic toe pattern when doing a normal wheel
alignment. The only time dynamic toe pattern needs
to be checked or adjusted is if the frame of the vehi-
cle has been damaged.
STEERING AXIS INCLINATION (S. A. I.)
Steering axis inclination is the angle between a
true vertical line starting at the center of the tire at
the road contact point and a line drawn through the
center of the upper ball joint (or strut) and the lower
ball joint (Fig. 5). S.A.I. is built into the vehicle and
is not an adjustable angle. If S.A.I. is not within
specifications, a bent or damaged suspension compo-
nent may be the cause.
INCLUDED ANGLE (I. A.)
Included angle is the sum of the S.A.I. angle plus
or minus the camber angle, depending on whether or
not the wheel has positive or negative camber (Fig.
5). If camber is positive, add the camber angle to the
S.A.I. angle. If camber is negative, subtract the cam-
ber angle from the S.A.I. angle. Included angle is not
adjustable, but can be used to diagnose a frame mis-
alignment or bent suspension component (spindle,
strut).
THRUST ANGLE
Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle's center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).
²Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the left of the front tires.
²Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the right of the front tires.
Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.
Fig. 4 Toe-Out On Turns
1 - TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Fig. 5 S.A.I. and I.A.
1 - S.A.I.
2 - CAMBER
3 - I.A.
2 - 48 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame
rail and reposition engine as required
3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint
4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque
5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment
6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires
7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount
and bearing
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque
Fig. 6 Thrust Angle
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-49
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.
NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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