DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY 2001 Service Manual

(2) Alternative Method:
²Support the weight of the crankshaft with a jack
under the counterweight adjacent to the bearing
being checked.
(3) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(4) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 58). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.
(5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 59) with the scale
provided on the package. Locate the band closest to
the same width. This band shows the amount of
clearance in thousandths. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper
present. Record all readings taken. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)Plastigage gener-
ally is accompanied by two scales. One scale is
in inches, the other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.PLASTIGAGE METHODÐENGINE OUT-OF-VEHICLE
(1) With engine in the inverted position (crank-
shaft up) and mounted on a repair stand, remove
main journal cap.
(2) Remove oil from journal and bearing shell.
(3) Cut Plastigage to same length as width of the
bearing and place it in parallel with the journal axis
(Fig. 58).
(4) Carefully install the main bearing cap and
tighten the bolts to specified torque.
CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft or the Plasti-
gage will be smeared.
(5) Carefully remove the bearing cap and measure
the width of the Plastigage at the widest part using
the scale on the Plastigage package (Fig. 59). Refer
to Engine Specifications for proper clearances (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If the clearance
exceeds the specified limits, replace the main bear-
ing(s) with the appropriate size, and if necessary,
have the crankshaft machined to next undersize.
REMOVAL - CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
(1) Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(2) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
(3) Remove bearing caps one at a time. Remove
upper half of bearing by inserting Special Main Bear-
ing Tool C-3059 (Fig. 60) into the oil hole of crank-
shaft.
(4) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
Fig. 58 Plastigage Placed in Lower
1 - PLASTIGAGE
Fig. 59 Clearance Measurement
Fig. 60 Upper Main Bearing Removing/Installing
With Special Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARING
9 - 114 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)
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INSTALLATION - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
NOTE: One main bearing should be selectively fit-
ted while all other main bearing caps are properly
tightened.
(1) For main bearing fitting procedure, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Start bearing in place, and insert Main Bearing
Tool C-3059 into oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 60).
(3) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Special Main
Bearing Tool C-3059.
(4) Inspect main cap bolts for stretching (Fig. 61).
Replace bolts that are stretched.
NOTE: The main cap bolts should be examined
before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked by hold-
ing a scale or straight edge against the threads. If
all the threads do not contact the scale the bolt
must be replaced (Fig. 61).
(5) Install each main cap and tighten bolts finger
tight.
(6) Tighten number 1, 3 and 4 main cap bolts to 41
N´m + 1/4 Turn (30 ft. lbs.+ 1/4 Turn).
(7) Rotate the crankshaft until the number 6 pis-
ton is at TDC.
(8) To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment the
following procedure must be done:
²Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel.
²Then, move crankshaft all the way to the front
of its travel.
²Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of
the cylinder block and rear crankshaft counter-
weight. This will hold the crankshaft in it's most for-
ward position.²Tighten the #2 Thrust Bearing cap bolts to 41
N´m + 1/4 Turn (30 ft. lbs.+ 1/4 Turn). Remove the
holding tool.
(9) Install oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION)
(10) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove right wheel and
inner splash shield.
(3) Remove accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove crankshaft damper. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL)
(5) Position Special Tool 6341A on crankshaft nose.
Carefully screw the tool into the seal until it engages
firmly (Fig. 62). Be careful not to damage that crank-
shaft seal surface of cover
(6) Remove oil seal by turning the forcing screw
until the seal disengages from the cover (Fig. 63).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position Special Tool C-4992-2 Guide, on the
crankshaft nose (Fig. 64).
(2) Position new seal over the guide with the seal
spring in the direction of the engine front cover (Fig.
64).
Fig. 61 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
Fig. 62 Engaging Tool into Seal
1 - SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6341A
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 115
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)
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(3) Install seal using Special Tool C-4992-1 until
seal is flush with cover. (Fig. 64).
(4) Install crankshaft damper. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION)
(5) Install accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION)
(6) Install inner splash shield and right front
wheel.
(7) Lower vehicle and connect negative cable to
battery.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transaxle. Refer to TRANSAXLE
AND POWER TRANSFER UNIT for procedure.
(2) Remove the flex plate. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL)
(3) Insert a 3/16 flat bladed pry tool between the
dust lip and the metal case of the crankshaft seal.
Angle the pry tool (Fig. 65) through the dust lip
against metal case of the seal. Pry out seal.
CAUTION: Do not permit the pry tool blade to con-
tact crankshaft seal surface. Contact of the pry tool
blade against crankshaft edge (chamfer) is permit-
ted.
Fig. 63 Crankshaft Front Seal Removal
1 - SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6341A
Fig. 64 CRANKSHAFT FRONT SEAL INSTALLATION
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4992-1
2 - SEAL
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4992-2
4 - CRANKSHAFT
Fig. 65 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal - Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - ENGINE BLOCK
3 - ENGINE BLOCK
4 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL METAL CASE
5 - PRY IN THIS DIRECTION
6 - CRANKSHAFT
7 - SCREWDRIVER
8 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL DUST LIP
9 - SCREWDRIVER
9 - 116 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If burr or scratch is present on the
crankshaft edge (chamfer), cleanup with 400 grit
sand paper to prevent seal damage during installa-
tion of new seal.
(1) Place Special Tool 6926-1 magnetic pilot tool on
crankshaft (Fig. 66).
(2) Place seal over Special Tool 6926-1 Pilot. Using
Special Tool 6926-2 Installer with C-4171 Handle,
drive seal into the retainer housing (Fig. 66).
(3) Install the flex plate. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - INSTALLATION)
(4) Install transaxle. Refer to TRANSAXLE AND
POWER TRANSFER UNIT for procedure.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove crankshaft rear oil seal. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove oil seal retainer screws (Fig. 67).
(3) Remove oil seal retainer (Fig. 67).
(4) Clean engine block and retainer of oil and gas-
ket material. Make sure surfaces are clean and free
of oil.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position new gasket and install retainer on
block (Fig. 67). Tighten attaching screws to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(2) Install oil seal. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR -
INSTALLATION)
Fig. 66 Rear Crankshaft Oil SealÐInstallation
1 - SPECIAL TOOLS:
2 - C-4171 HANDLE
3 - 6926±2 INSTALLER
4 - 6926±1 GUIDE
5 - SEAL
Fig. 67 CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
1 - OIL SEAL
2 - BOLT
3 - RETAINER - OIL SEAL
4 - GASKET
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 117
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
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FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transaxle. (Refer to 21 - TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 31TH -
REMOVAL) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRAN-
SAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove flex plate attaching bolts.
(3) Remove the flex plate (Fig. 68).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position flex plate with backing plate on the
crankshaft (Fig. 68).
(2) Apply MopartLock & Seal Adhesive to the flex
plate bolts.
(3) Install flex plate bolts (Fig. 68). Tighten bolts
to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transaxle. (Refer to 21 - TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 31TH -
INSTALLATION) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE - INSTALLA-
TION)
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and
are positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are
aligned and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig.
69).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into sixaligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 69).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
Fig. 68 FLEX PLATE
1 - FLEX PLATE
2 - BOLT (QTY. 8)
3 - BACKING PLATE
Fig. 69 Hydraulic Lifters
1 - YOKE RETAINER
2 - BOLT - YOKE RETAINER
3 - ALIGNING YOKE
4 - HYDRAULIC LIFTER
9 - 118 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
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OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
the plunger and the lifter body causing the plunger
to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case, lifter assembly should be removed for inspec-
tion.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the yoke retainer and aligning yokes
(Fig. 71).
(3) Remove the hydraulic lifters. If necessary use
Special Tool C-4129, or equivalent to remove liftersfrom bores. If lifters are to be reused, identify each
lifter to ensure installation in original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the lifters with engine oil.
NOTE: Position the lifter in bore with the lubrication
hole facing upward (Fig. 70).
(2) Install the hydraulic lifters with the lubrication
hole facing upward towards middle of block (Fig. 70).
Install lifters in original positions, if reused.
(3) Install lifter aligning yokes (Fig. 71).
(4) Install yoke retainer and torque screws to 12
N´m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 71).
(5) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(6) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic lifters have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of cast aluminum alloy and
are a strutless, short skirt design. The piston rings
consist of two compression rings and a three piece oil
ring. Piston pins connect the piston to the forged
steel connecting rods. The piston pins are a press fit
into the connecting rod.
Fig. 70 LIFTER LUBRICATION HOLE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 119
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN BLOCK) (Continued)
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OPERATION
The piston and connecting rod is the link between
the combustion force to the crankshaft.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - FITTING
CONNECTING RODS
The bearing caps are not interchangeable or
reversible, and should be marked at removal to
ensure correct reassembly. The bearing shells must
be installed with the tangs inserted into the
machined grooves in the rods and caps. Install cap
with the tangs on the same side as the rod. For con-
necting rod bearing fitting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Fit all connecting rods
on one bank until complete.NOTE: The connecting rod cap bolts should be
examined before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked
by holding a scale or straight edge against the
threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale
the bolt must be replaced (Fig. 72).
(1) Before installing the nuts the threads should
be oiled with engine oil.
(2) Install nuts finger tight on each bolt then alter-
nately torque each nut to assemble the cap properly.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 54 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (40
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn).
(4) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance (Fig. 73). Refer to Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
Fig. 71 Lifter Aligning Yoke and Retainer
1 - YOKE RETAINER
2 - BOLT - YOKE RETAINER
3 - ALIGNING YOKE
4 - HYDRAULIC LIFTER
Fig. 72 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
Fig. 73 Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance
9 - 120 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
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STANDARD PROCEDURES - FITTING PISTONS
The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and
dry. Piston diameter should be measured 90 degrees
to piston pin at size location shown in (Fig. 74). Cyl-
inder bores should be measured halfway down the
cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft
center line shown in (Fig. 75). Refer to Engine Spec-
ifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).Pistons and cylinder bores should be
measured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC
(70ÉF).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)(4) Remove the top ridge of cylinder bores with a
reliable ridge reamer, if necessary, before removing
pistons from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops
of pistons covered during this operation. Pis-
tons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing pis-
ton and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so that each connect-
ing rod is centered in cylinder bore.
(5) Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod
caps for cylinder identification. Identify them, if nec-
essary (Fig. 76).
(6) Remove connecting rod cap. Install connecting
rod bolt protectors on connecting rod bolts (Fig. 77).
(7) Remove each piston and connecting rod assem-
bly out of the cylinder bore.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
(8) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
Fig. 74 Piston Measurement Locations
1 - 39.8 mm (1.56 in. ) 3.3L ENGINE
2 - 33.0 mm (1.29 in.) 3.8L ENGINE
Fig. 75 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
Fig. 76 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
1 - CYLINDER NUMBER
Fig. 77 Connecting Rod Protectors
1 - COVER ROD BOLTS WITH A SUITABLE COVERING WHEN
REMOVING OR INSTALLING PISTON ASSEMBLY
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 121
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
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INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing pistons and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, ensure that compression
ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with
oil ring rail gap (Fig. 78).
(2) Before installing the ring compressor, ensure
the oil ring expander ends are butted and the rail
gaps located as shown in (Fig. 78).
(3) Lubricate the piston and rings with clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings, and tighten the compressor (Fig. 79).Be
sure position of rings does not change during
this operation.(4) Position upper bearing onto connecting rod.
Lubricate bearing with oil.
(5) Install connecting rod bolt protectors (rubber
hose or equivalent) on the connecting rod bolts (Fig.
79).
(6) The pistons are marked with a ªFº located near
the piston pin. Install piston with this mark posi-
tioned to front of engine on both cylinder banks. The
connecting rod oil squirt hole faces the major thrust
(right) side of the engine block (Fig. 80).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until the connecting rod
journal is located in the center of the cylinder bore.
Insert connecting rod and piston into cylinder bore.
Carefully guide connecting rod over the crankshaft
journal (Fig. 79).
(8) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on connecting rod journal.
(9) Install lower bearing shell and connecting rod
cap (Fig. 79). Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) PLUS
1¤4
turn.
(10) Repeat procedure for each piston and connect-
ing rod installation.
(11) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION)
(13) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.Fig. 78 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER
2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
5 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
9 - 122 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
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Fig. 79 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD INSTALLATION
1 - RING - OIL CONTROL 7 - CAP - CONNECTING ROD
2 - RING - NO. 2 COMPRESSION 8 - BEARING - CONNECTING ROD LOWER
3 - RING - NO. 1 COMPRESSION 9 - CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL PROTECTOR (RUBBER HOSE)
4 - RING - SIDE RAIL UPPER & LOWER 10 - BEARING - CONNECTING ROD UPPER
5 - PISTON RING COMPRESSOR 11 - PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
6 - NUT - CONNECTING ROD 12 - PISTON LOCATION MARK (F = FRONT)
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 123
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
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