check engine light DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service User Guide

3
- 6
REAR SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE

•

NUT PIPE
SOCKET
WRENCH
(DRIVER)

FLAT
THREADED
WASHER
ROD
J8917-20

Fig.
6
Spring
Eye
Bushing
Removal
(3) Align
the
bushing with
the
spring
eye and

tighten
the nut
located
at the
socket wrench
end of

the threaded
rod.
Tighten until
the
bushing
is
forced into
the
spring
eye.

The bushing must
be
centered
in the
spring

eye.
The
ends
of the
bushing must
be
flush
or
slightly recessed within
the end
surfaces
of the

spring
eye.
8ERW1GE DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page

Driveline
Snap
8

Gear
and
Bearing Noise
7

General
Information
6
Limited
Slip
Differential
8
page
Low Speed Knock
.........................
8
Rear
Axle
Alignment
.......................
7

Tire
Noise
7
Vibration
8

GENERAL INFORMATION
Axle bearing problem conditions
are
usually caused
by: • Insufficient
or
incorrect lubricant
• Foreign matter/water contamination
• Incorrect bearing preload torque adjustment When serviced,
the
bearings must
be
cleaned thor­
oughly. They should
be
dried with lint-free shop tow­

els.
Never
dry
bearings with compressed
air.

This will overheat them
and
brinell
the
bearing surfaces. This will result
in
noisy operation after
repair. Axle gear problem conditions
are
usually
the
result

of:

• Insufficient lubrication
• Incorrect
or
contaminated lubricant
• Overloading (excessive engine torque)
• Incorrect clearance
or
backlash adjustment Insufficient lubrication
is
usually
the
result
of a

housing cover leak.
It can
also
be
from worn axle shaft
or
pinion gear seals. Check
for
cracks
or
porous
areas
in the
housing
or
tubes.
Using
the
wrong lubricant will cause overheating
and gear failure. Gear tooth cracking
and
bearing
spalling
are
indicators
of
this.
Axle component breakage
is
most often
the
result

of:

• Severe overloading
• Insufficient lubricant
• Incorrect lubricant • Improperly tightened components
Common causes
of
overloading
is
from full-throttle
acceleration. Overloading occurs when towing
heavier than normal loads. Component breakage
can
occur when
the
wheels
are
spun excessively. Insuffi­
cient
or
incorrect lubricants contribute
to
breakage
through overheating. Loose differential components can also cause breakage. Incorrect bearing preload
or
gear backlash will
not

result
in
component breakage. Mis-adjustment will
produce enough noise
to
cause service repair before
a

3
- 8
REAR SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE

• level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.

LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion gear shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.

VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
• Damaged drive shaft
• Missing drive shaft balance weight
• Worn, out-of-balance wheel and tires
• Loose wheel lug nuts
• Worn U-joint • Loose spring U-bolts
• Loose/broken rear springs or shackles
• Damaged axle shaft bearings
• Loose pinion gear nut
• Excessive pinion yoke run out
• Bent axle shaft Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end vi­
bration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined be­
fore starting any repair. Refer to Group 22, Wheels and Tires for additional
information.

DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: • High engine idle speed
• Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts

9
Worn U-joints
• Loose spring shackles or U-bolts
• Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
• Excessive ring gear backlash
• Excessive differential side gear-to-case clearance A worn bushing in the transmission extension
housing can also cause noise. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter­
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the ve­
hicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is
helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

LIMITED
SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Under normal traction conditions, engine torque is
divided evenly. With low-traction surfaces, engine
torque is transferred to the wheel with the most tire
traction. When diagnosing a limited-slip differential
problem condition, the wheel with the least traction can continue spinning. The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Check for incorrect or contaminated lubricant. Replace the gear lubricant if necessary.
• With Sure-Grip differentials add a container of
MOPAR® Hypoid Gear Additive This will correct the condition in most instances. If
the chatter persists, clutch damage could have oc­ curred. After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu­
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches.

•

BRAKES
i - 3 BRAKE DIAGNOSIS

INDEX

page

Brake
Warning Lights
3

Diagnosing
Brake Problems .................
4

Diagnosis
Procedures
3

Low
Vacuum
Switch—Diesel
Models
3
page

Master
Cylinder/Power Booster Test
5

Power
Booster
Check
Valve Test .............
6

Power
Booster
Vacuum
Test .................
6

Testing Diesel
Engine
Vacuum
Pump
Output
.... 6

DIAGNOSIS
PROCEDURES
Brake diagnosis involves determining
if the
prob­
lem
is
related
to a
mechanical, hydraulic
or
vacuum
operated component.
A
preliminary check, road test­
ing
and
component inspection
can all be
used
to de­

termine
a
problem cause. Road testing will either verify proper brake opera­
tion
or
confirm
the
existence
of a
problem. Compo­ nent inspection will,
in
most cases, identify
the
actual part causing
a
problem. The first diagnosis step
is the
preliminary check. This
involves inspecting fluid level, parking brake action,
wheel
and
tire condition, checking
for
obvious leaks
or

component damage
and
testing brake pedal response. A road test will confirm
the
existence
of a
problem.
Final diagnosis procedure involves road test analysis and
a
visual inspection
of
brake components.

BRAKE
WARNING LIGHTS
The
red
brake warning light
is
connected
to the

parking brake switch
and to the
pressure differential switch
in the
combination valve. The
red
light will illuminate when
the
parking
brakes
are
applied
or
when
a
fluid pressure drop
oc­
curs
in the
front
or
rear brake circuit.
The
light will
also illuminate
for
approximately
2-4
seconds
at en­

gine start
up.
This
is a
self test feature designed
to

check bulb
and
circuit operation each time
the en­

gine
is
started. The amber antilock light
is
connected
to the
anti-
lock rear brake hydraulic valve.
The
light will illu­
minate
if a
fault occurs within
the
antilock system.

LOW VACUUM SWITCH-DIESEL MODELS
On diesel models,
the red
brake warning light
is
also
used
to
alert
the
driver
of a low
brake booster vacuum
condition.
The
warning light
is in
circuit with
a
vacuum
warning switch mounted
on the
driver side fender
panel.
The
vacuum side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the

power brake booster.
The
electrical side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the
brake warning light. The
low
vacuum switch monitors booster vacuum
level whenever
the
engine
is
running.
If
booster vac­
uum falls below
8.5
inches vacuum
for a
minimum
of
10 seconds,
the
switch completes
the
circuit
to the

warning light causing
it to
illuminate.
The
warning light
is
designed
to
differentiate between
a low
vac­
uum condition
and a
hydraulic circuit fault.

PRELIMINARY
BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition
of
tires
and
wheels. Damaged
wheels
and
worn, damaged,
or
underinflated tires
can
cause pull, shudder, tramp,
and a
condition similar
to
grab.

(2)
If
complaint
was
based
on
noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front
and
rear
of

vehicle
and
listen
for
noise that might
be
caused
by

loose, worn
or
damaged suspension
or
steering compo­

nents.

(3) Inspect brake fluid level
and
condition. Note
that
the
front disc brake reservoir fluid level will drop
in
proportion
to
normal lining wear. Also note
that brake fluid tends
to
darken over time. This
is normal
and
should
not be
mistaken
for
con­
tamination.
If the
fluid
is
still clear
and
free
of

foreign material,
it is OK.

(a)
If
fluid level
is
abnormally
low,
look
for
evi­
dence
of
leaks
at
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake-
lines
and
master cylinder.
(b)
If
fluid appears contaminated, drain
out a

sample.
If
fluid
is
separated into layers,
or
obvi­
ously contains
oil or a
substance other than brake
fluid,
the
system seals
and
cups will have
to be re­

placed
and the
hydraulic system flushed.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement
and
full release
of
cables
and
pedal. Also
note
if
vehicle
was
being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does
not
bind
and has
adequate free play.
If
pedal
lacks free play, check pedal
and
power booster
for be­

ing loose
or for
bind condition.
Do not
road test until
condition
is
corrected.
(6)
If
components checked appear
OK,
road test
the

vehicle.

ROAD
TESTING (1)
If
complaint involved
low
brake pedal, pump
the pedal
and
note
if the
pedal comes back
up to
nor­ mal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral
and
engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure.

5
- 4
BRAKES

• (3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph (40-64 Km/h) range. Note faulty
brake operation such as pull, grab, drag, noise, low
pedal, etc.
(4) Inspect suspect brake components and refer to
problem diagnosis information for causes of various
brake conditions.

COMPONENT
INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can usu­
ally be located without removing any components. The
area around a leak point will be wet with fluid. The
components at a dragging brake unit (wheel, tire, rotor)
will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo­
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac­

cess.

DIAGNOSING BRAKE
PROBLEMS

PEDAL FALLS
AWAY
A
brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is the result of a system leak. The leak
point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose, or caliper. Internal leakage in the master cylinder caused by
worn or damaged piston cups, may also be the prob­ lem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component. However, internal leakage in
the master cylinder may not be physically evident. Re­ fer to the cylinder test procedure in this section.

LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev­
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the likely causes.
A decrease in fluid level in the master cylinder res­
ervoirs may only be the result of normal lining wear.
Fluid level can be expected to decrease in proportion to wear. It is a result of the outward movement of
caliper and wheel cylinder pistons to compensate for
normal wear. Top off the reservoir fluid level and
check brake operation to verify proper brake action.
SPONGY PEDAL. A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the sys­
tem. Thin brake drums or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a spongy pedal. The proper course
of action is to bleed the system and replace thin drums and suspect quality brake lines and hoses.

HARD PEDAL
OR
HIGH
PEDAL
EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could also be faulty. On diesel engine models, high pedal effort may be
the result of a low vacuum condition. If the booster and check valve are OK, the problem may be related
to a vacuum pump hose, hose connection, hose fit­
ting, pump diaphragm, or drive gear. Vacuum pump output can be checked with a standard vacuum
gauge. Vacuum output should range from 8.5 to 25 inches vacuum. If vacuum pump output is within

limits,
check the power booster and check valve as
described in this section.

BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at
one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can
be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings,
rotors and drums.
Brake drag can also effect fuel economy. If undetec­
ted, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed as an en­ gine or transmission/torque converter problem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most

cases,
the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite
warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In se­
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
• seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables
• loose/worn wheel bearing
• seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
• caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces
• loose caliper mounting bracket
• drum brakeshoes binding on worn or damaged sup­
port plates
• misassembled components. If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder return port, or faulty power booster that binds and does not release.

BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, brake overheating and subse­ quent fade can also be caused by riding the brake
pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops in a short time span, or constant braking on steep moun­
tain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information in
this section for additional causes.

PEDAL
PULSA
TION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, out of round, or worn beyond tolerance limits.

•

BRAKES
5 - 5 Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are loose
wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tires.

PULL A
front pull condition could be the result of con­
taminated lining in one caliper, seized caliper piston,
binding caliper, loose caliper, loose or corroded slide

pins,
improper brakeshoes, or a damaged rotor.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo­
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi­
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops.
The cause is a combination of brake drag fol­
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in fa­
vor of the normally functioning brake unit.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re­
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged).

REAR BRAKE GRAB
OR
PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by an improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cable, contaminated
lining, bent or binding shoes and support plates, or im­
properly assembled components. This is particularly
true when only one rear wheel is involved. However,
when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be at fault.

BRAKES
DO NOT
HOLD
AFTER
DRIVING
THROUGH
DEEP
WATER
PUDDLES

This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driv­
ing with the brakes very lightly applied for a few min­

utes.
However, if the lining is thoroughly wet and dirty,
disassembly and cleaning will be necessary.

BRAKE NOISE

Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con­
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the brake lining can also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal con­
tact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue, ro­ tors can become so scored that replacement is necessary.
Thump/Clunk

Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre­
quently not caused by brake components. In many

cases,
such noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, or engine components. How­
ever, calipers that bind on the slide pins, or slide sur­

faces,
can generate a thump or clunk noise. Worn
out, improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled
rear brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.

Chatter
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional
causes of chatter are out of tolerance rotors, brake
lining not securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel
bearings and contaminated brake lining.
Brakelining Contamination Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov­
ered with grease and grit during repair.
Wheel and
Tire
Problems Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and re­ covers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation. A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.

MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates a vacuum leak. Correct any leaks before proceeding. (2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu­
tral (3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted. (4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. (a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). (5) Start engine and note pedal action. (a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6). (b) If pedal is effort is high, or no pedal action is
discernible, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat steps (2) through (5).

5
- 6
BRAKES

• (c) On diesel models, vacuum pump hose or
pump component may have malfunctioned. Check
pump output with vacuum gauge and repair as necessary. Refer to service procedures in Power
Booster/Vacuum Pump section.
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re­
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition. (7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake ac­
tion again. Booster should provide two or more vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not pro­
vided, perform booster and check valve vacuum tests.
Also check vacuum output on diesel models.

POWER
BOOSTER
CHECK
VALVE
TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1). (3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2). (4) Apply 15-20 inches (50-67 kPa) vacuum at
large end of check valve (Fig. 1). (5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
BOOSTER

CHECK
VALVE
APPLY
TEST
\
VACUUM
HERE

Fig.
1
Vacuum
Check
Vaive
And
Seal
J9005-80

Fig.
2 Typical
Hand
Operated
Vacuum
Pump

POWER
BOOSTER
VACUUM
TEST
(1) Connect a vacuum gauge to the booster check
valve with a short length of hose and a T-fitting (Fig.

3).
(2) Start and run engine at idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve (Fig. 3).
(4) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(5) If vacuum drops more than one inch vacuum
(33 millibars) within 15 seconds, either booster dia­
phragm or check valve are faulty.
SHORT

CONNECTING
CHECK

VACUUM
GAUGE

J9005-81
Fig.
3
Booster
Vacuum
Test
Connections

TESTING
DIESEL
ENGINE
VACUUM
PUMP
OUTPUT
On models with a Cummins turbo diesel engine, a
low vacuum condition in the brake booster will cause
the brake warning light to illuminate. The following test checks output and condition of the
vacuum pump and interconnecting hoses. However, a
more comprehensive testing procedure is provided in
the Power Brake Booster-Brake Pedal-Vacuum Pump section. Refer to the procedure for "Diagnosing A Low
Vacuum Condition" in that section. (1) Check pump vacuum and booster hoses and
connections. Make sure hoses are in good condition and securely attached. Run engine and check for vac­
uum leaks. Replace leaking hoses before proceeding. (2) Disconnect vacuum hose at booster and connect
vacuum gauge to hose end. (3) Run engine at curb idle speed and note vacuum
reading. Then run engine at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and
note vacuum reading again. (4) Vacuum should range from 8.5 to 25 inches
vacuum at various throttle openings. Vacuum should
hold steady and not drop below 8.5 inches. (5) If vacuum output is OK, check booster and
check valve as described in this section. However, if
vacuum is low, or does not hold steady, vacuum
hoses or pump components are faulty.

•

BRAKES
5 - 23
VACUUM PUMP OPERATION

Vacuum pump output is transmitted to the power
brake booster through a supply hose. The hose is con­ nected to an outlet port on the pump housing and to
the check valve in the power brake booster.
Pump output ranges from a minimum of 8.5 to 25
inches vacuum. The pump rotor and vanes are rotated by the pump
drive gear. The drive gear is operated by the cam­
shaft gear. Booster vacuum level is monitored by a warning
switch (Fig. 2). The switch consists of a vacuum
chamber that measures vacuum level and a sensor in
circuit with the brake warning light. The vacuum chamber is connected to the booster
check valve by a vacuum supply hose. A wire har­
ness connects the switch sensor to the brake warning
light. If booster vacuum falls below 8.5 inches for 8-10 seconds or more, the switch sensor completes
the circuit to the warning light causing it to illumi­

nate.

VACUUM PUMP DIAGNOSIS
Vacuum pump diagnosis involves checking pump
output with a vacuum gauge. The low vacuum warn­
ing switch can also be checked with a vacuum gauge.
Refer to the diagnosis procedure in this section. A standard vacuum gauge can be used to check
pump output when necessary. Simply disconnect the
pump supply hose and connect a vacuum gauge to
the outlet port for testing purposes. Vacuum should
hold steady in a range of approximately 8.5 to 25 inches at various engine speeds.
DIAGNOSING LOW VACUUM OUTPUT CONDITION A low booster vacuum condition or a faulty low
vacuum warning switch will cause the brake warn­ ing light to illuminate. If the light does go on and in­
dicates the existence of a low vacuum condition,
check the vacuum pump, booster and warning switch
as follows:
(1) Check vacuum pump oil feed line. Verify that
line connections are secure and not leaking. If leak­ age is noted and pump is noisy, replace pump.
(2) Disconnect supply hose to booster. Connect vac­
uum gauge to this hose and run engine at various
throttle openings. Output should range from 8.5 to 25 inches vacuum. If vacuum is consistently below
8.5 inches, problem is with vacuum hoses or pump
component. If output is within specified limits, con­
tinue testing.
(3) Check booster operation as described in diagno­
sis section. Replace check valve, vacuum hoses, or
booster if necessary. However, if booster operation is correct but warning light is still on, continue testing. (4) Disconnect vacuum hose at warning switch.
Plug hose and connect hand vacuum pump to switch. (5) Start and run engine.
(6) Apply 8.5 to 9 inches of vacuum to warning
switch and observe warning light. If light goes out,
switch vacuum hose is either loose or leaking. If
light remains on, leave engine running and continue
testing.
(7) Apply 20-25 inches vacuum to switch and ob­
serve warning light operation. If light now goes out,
switch is at fault and should be replaced. If light re­
mains on, continue testing.
(8) Reconnect vacuum hoses and replace original
warning switch with known good switch. Run engine and observe warning light operation. If light is now
off, old switch is faulty. If light remains on, problem
is in wiring between switch and warning light.

VACUUM-STEERING PUMP
ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Position drain pan under power steering pump.
(3) Disconnect vacuum and steering pump hoses
from respective pumps (Fig. 3).

Fig.
3
Vacuum
And Steering
Pump Hose
Connections

(4) Disconnect oil pressure sender wires at sender
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove oil pressure sender (Fig. 4).
(6) Disconnect lubricating oil feed line from fitting
at underside of vacuum pump (Fig. 5).
(7) Remove lower bolt that attaches pump assem­
bly to engine block (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove bottom, inboard nut that attaches
adapter to steering pump (Fig. 6). This nut secures a
small bracket to engine block. Nut and bracket must
be removed before pump assembly can be removed from block.

6 - 6
CLUTCH

1
Check
clutch
housing bolts.
Tighten
if loose. Be sure

housing
is
fully
seated on engine block.
2 Check
flywheel
condition.
Scuff sand
flywheel
face
to remove glaze. Clean surface
with
a wax and

grease
remover afterward. Replace
flywheel
if
severely scored, worn or cracked. Secure
flywheel

with
new bolts (if removed). Do not reuse old bolts.
Use
Lock and Seal on bolts.

3
Tighten clutch cover bolts 2-3 threads at a
time,
alter­
nately and evenly (in a diagonal
pattern)
to specified
torque. Failure to do so could warp the cover.
4 Check release fork. Replace fork if distorted or worn. Make sure ball stud and release bearing contact sur­

faces
are lubricated.

5
Check release fork pivot. Be sure pivot is tight and ball end is lubricated.
6 Transmission input
shaft
bearing
will
cause noise,
chatter,
or improper release if
damaged.
Check
con­

dition before installing transmission.
7 Inspect release bearing slide surface of trans,
front
bearing
retainer.
Surface should be smooth,
free
of

nicks,
scores.
Replace
retainer
if
necessary.
Lubricate slide surface before installing release bearing. 8 Check input shaft seal if clutch cover and
disc
were

oil covered. Replace seal if worn, or cut.
9 Do not replace release bearing
unless
actually
faulty.
Replace bearing only if seized, noisy, or damaged.
10 Check clutch cover diaphragm spring and release
fingers.
Replace cover if spring or fingers are bent, warped, broken, cracked. Do not tamper
with
fac­

tory
clutch spring setting. Clutch problems
will
result.
11 Check condition of clutch cover. Replace clutch cover if
plate
surface is deeply scored, warped, worn, or
cracked. Be sure cover is correct size and properly
aligned on
disc
and flywheel.
12 Inspect clutch
housing.
Be sure alignment dowels are in position and bolts are tight. Replace housing if
cracked, or damaged. If clutch problems ocurred,
check runout, to be sure housing is square
with

flywheel
and transmission input shaft.
13
Verify
that
housing
alignment dowels are in position before installing
housing.

14 Clean engine block surface before installing clutch
housing.
Dirt, grime can produce misalignment.
15 Make sure side of clutch
disc
marked
"flywheel
side"
is
toward flywheel.
16 Check
rear
main seal if clutch
disc
and cover
were
oil covered. Replace seal if necessary.
17 Check crankshaft flange (if
flywheel
is removed). Be sure flange is clean and
flywheel
bolt threads are
in
good
condition.
18 Check pilot bearing. Replace bearing if dam­
aged.
Lube
with
high temp. Grease before in­
stallation.
19 Check transmission input shaft. Clutch
disc
must slide
freely
on shaft splines. Lightly grease

splines
before installation. Replace shaft if

splines
or pilot bearing hub are damaged.
20 Check
flywheel
bolt torque. If bolts are loose, replace them. Use Mopar Lock and Seal to secure
new bolts.
21 Check clutch
disc
facing. Replace
disc
if facing is charred, scored, flaking off, or worn.
Also
check runout of new
disc.
Runout should not ex­
ceed 0.5 mm (0.02 in.).

J9206-9

Fig. 8 Clutch Inspection Points

•

CLUTCH
6 - 9 CLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
Condition
Found
Cause
T

Correction

1.
Clutch
disc
facing covered
with

oil, grease, or clutch fluid. a) Oil leak at
rear
main or input
shaft seal.
b) Too much grease applied to
splines
or
disc
and input shaft. a) Correct leak and replace
disc

(do not clean and reuse the

disc).

b) Apply lighter grease coating to splines and replace
disc
(do not clean and reuse the disc).
2. Clutch
disc
and/or cover warped, or
disc
facings
exhibit
unusual
wear or appear to be
wrong type. Incorrect or substandard parts.
Replace
disc
and/or cover
with

correct parts.
3. Clutch master or slave cylinder plunger dragging-binding. a) Master or slave cylinder
components worn or corroded. a) Replace both cylinders as

assembly
(and reservoir).
4. No
fault
found
with
clutch
components.
a) Problem actually
related
to

suspension
or driveline
component.
b) Engine
related
problem. a)
Further
diagnosis
required.

Check
engine/transmission
mounts,
propeller shafts and U-joints, tires,
suspension

attaching parts and other
driveline components as needed.
b) Check EFI and igniton
systems.

5.
Partial
engagement of clutch
disc
(one side worn-opposite

side
glazed and lightly worn). a) Clutch pressure
plate
position
setting incorrect or modified.
b) Clutch cover, spring, or release fingers bent, distorted (rough
handling,
improper assembly).
c) Clutch
disc
damaged or distorted.
d) Clutch misalignment. a) Replace clutch cover and
disc.

b) Replace clutch cover and
disc.

c) Replace
disc.

d) Check alignment and runout of flywheel,
disc,
or cover and/or clutch
housing.
Correct as
necessary.
J9006-23

6-12
CLUTCH

(c) Position indicator plunger about 1/4 inch from
outer edge of disc facing.
(d) Runout should not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020 in.).
Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceeds this
limit.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease.
(3) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub,
(4) Verify that clutch disc is positioned correctly.
Side of hub marked "Flywheel Side" should face fly­
wheel (Fig. 4). If disc is not marked, position raised side of disc hub toward clutch cover and transmis­
sion.
CLUTCH

DISC

"FLYWHEEL
SIDE"
STAMPED
ON

THIS
SURFACE

J9006-33
Fig. 4 Clutch Disc Position (Typical)
(5) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi­
tion disc on flywheel surface (Fig. 5).
(6) Position clutch cover over disc and onto fly­
wheel (Fig. 5).

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC CLUTCH DISC
ALIGNMENT TOOL

FLYWHEEL.
J9106-18

Fig. 5 Clutch Disc And
Cower
Alignment/installation (7) Align and hold clutch cover in position and in­
stall cover bolts finger tight.
(8) Tighten cover bolts evenly and a few threads at
a time. Cover bolts must be tightened evenly and
to specified torque to avoid distorting cover.
• Tighten 5/16 in. diameter bolts to 23 N-m (17 ft.
lbs.)
• Tighten 3/8 in. diameter bolts to 41 N-m (30 ft.

lbs.).
(9) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear­
ing grease to bore of release bearing, release lever
contact surfaces and release lever pivot stud (Fig. 6).
CLUTCH

HOUSING

COAT

RELEASE

FORK
PIVOT
BALL STUD

WITH

HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE

RELEASE
FORK

(HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE)
LUBE
POINTS

(HIGH
TEMP.
GREASE)
APPLY
LIGHT
COAT

HIGH
TEMP. GREASE
TO RELEASE BEARING
BORE
LUBE
POINTS

J9106-19
Fig. 6 Clutch Release Component Lubrication
Points
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to splines of transmission input shaft and to release bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer (Fig. 7). Do not overlubri- cate shaft splines. Grease contamination of disc
will result. (11) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing.
(12) Install clutch housing (Figs. 8 and 9). Be sure
housing is properly seated on alignment dowels be­ fore tightening housing bolts.
(13) Install transmission/transfer case.
(14) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder. transmission and
CLUTCH HOUSING REMOVAL

(1) Raise vehicle and remove
transfer case if equipped. (2) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous­
ing from engine (Figs. 8 and 9). (3) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.