cleaner FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

ia«4 Component location - petrol models
Underbonnet view -1108 cc engine model
1 Engine oil filler
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Coolant expansion lank 7 Windscreen washer fluid reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (8-valve) engine model
1 Engine oil tiller
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner cover 6 Coo/ant expansion tank 7 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU

Component location - petrol models 1A.5
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (16-valve) engine model
1
Engine
olt filler
cap
2
Engine
oil dipstick 3
Brake
fluid
reservoir
4
Power
steering fluid reservoir 5
Engine
wiring connector cover 6
Windscreen
washer
fluid
reservoir 7 Battery 8
Coolant
expansion
tank
9 Air cleaner
cover
10 Resonator 11 ECU
1
Oil filter
2
Sump
drain plug 3
Transmission
drain plug A
Electric
cooling Ian unit 5
Left-hand driveshaft
6
Intermediate shaft
7
Right-hand driveshaft
B
Front
suspension lower arms 9
Front
anti-roll
bar
10
Exhaust
downpipe 11
Front
brake calipers (2
Rear engine
mounting IS Radiator bottom hose
Front underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models ia-h
clearance within specification. For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on them; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). t4 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft for easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the thinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and spark plugs. 18 lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Manifold mounting check
Refer
1O
Chapters 4A. 48 and 4D and check tne tightness of the nuts and bolts securing the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
17
Fuel
filter renewal I I
Warning: Before carrying out the !\ f°llow'n9 operation, refer to the precautions given In Safety firstI A
15.13 Shim thickness is marked on the tower face (here 4.20 mm) at the beginning of this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. Note: 1242 cc (8-vatve) engine mode's from 1998 onwards are equipped with a modified fuel system incorporating a fuel fitter integral with the fuel pump. On these engines fuel filter renewal is not required. 1 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, on the right-hand side of the fuel tank (see illustration). To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the filter to its support bracket. 3 Noting the fitted position of the filter body, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. The correct position is indicated by an arrow marked on ihe filter body 4 Remove the filter from the vehicle. Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly flammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 5 Locate the new filter into position, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, as noted when removing the old filter. The flow direction can otherwise be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 6 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter and lighten the clips, then locate it in the support bracket and tighten the mounting bolt.
17.1 Fuel filter location on tho right-hand side of the fuel tank 7 Start the engine, check the filter hose connections for leaks, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
18 Air fitter renewal
I
f f 08 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 1 Prise open the spring clips and withdraw the air cleaner cover a little way from the main body (see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 5 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines 6 Undo the three bolts securing the front of Ihe air cleaner cover to the main body. Lift the cover up at the front, disconnect the rear retainers and move it clear of the main body {see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 7 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 8 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean.
18.1 Prise open the spring clips... . and remove the filter element (8-valve engines)
18.6 Undo the three bolts (arrowed) and disconnect the air cleaner cover rear retainers (16-vatve engines)

1A.12
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
18.7 Lift up the cover and remove the filter element (18-va!ve engines) 9 Fit a new air (liter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated 10 Refit the air cloaner cover, engage the rear retainers and secure with the three bolts.
19 Spark plug renewal
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropnate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. If this type is used and the engine Is In good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals Spark plug cleaning Is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted
19.2a Disconnecting tho HT leads from Iho spark plugs on 8-valve engines ...
19.4 Removing the spark plugs
unless specialised equipment Is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 To remove the plugs first remove the air cleaner assembly (8-vaive engines) or the a»r cleaner, resonator and inlet air duct (16-valve engines) with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. if the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead conneciion may be Iractured (see illustrations) 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug • If it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed examine 4 as fallows. 5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good Indication of the condition of the engine. If the Insulator nose of the spark plug Is clean and white, with no deposits, this is Indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heal away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, this
19.2b ... and on 16-valve engines
19.9 Ad|ustlng a spark plug electrode gap
indicates that the mixture Is too rich. If the plug is black and oily, then It is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 If the Insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture Is correct and it is likely that (he engine Is in good condition. 6 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it Is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 To set the gap. measure it with a feeler blade and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug elect/ode until the correct gap l9 achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug I allure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit (see illustration). 10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers, 11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean (see Haynes Hint). 12 Remove the rubber hose (If used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench, Refit the remaining spark plugs In the same manner. 13 Connect the HT leads In their correct order, and refit any components removed for access.
It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To, avoid this possibility, fit a short length of Si 16 Inch Internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal Joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug beginto cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the cylinder head

ib-4 Component location - diesel models
Underbonnet view - turbo diesel model
1 Engine oil filter
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Oil
tilter
4 Brake/clutch fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Power steering pump 7 Coolant expansion
tank
8 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 9 Front suspension strut upper mounting 10 Fuel filter/heater
housing
11
Fuel
injection pump 12 Battery 13 Power steering fluid reservoir
Front underbody view - turbo diesel model
1 Oil
fitter
2 Sump drain plug 3 Transmission drain plug 4 Electric cooling fan unit 5 Left-hand
driveshaft
6 Intermediate
shaft
7 Bight-hand
driveshaft
8 Front suspension lower arms 9 Front anti-roll
bar
10 Exhaust downpipe 11 Front brake calipers 12
Rear
engine mounting 13 Radiator bottom hose
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

Every 10 000 miles - diesel models ib«9
4 Completely unscrew the filter and pour the remaining contents into the container. Ensure (hat the rubber sealing ring comes away with
me
fitter and unscrew the drain screw from the
bottom
of tho filter (see illustrations). 5 Wipe clean the contact surfaces then smear
a
ittfe fuel on the sealing rubber of the new Nter. 6 Screw on the new filter fully using the hands orty. 7 Prime the fuel system and start the engine wth reference to Chapter 4C. Check for any signs of fuel leakage around the new filter.
13 Air fitter renewal
t Release the retaining clips and withdraw
Ihe
air cleaner cover a little way from the main body. Leave the cover attached to the inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected Inside the air cleaner and wipe the Inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element in position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
14 Pollen filter renewal
t
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) Is located under the engine bulkhead cover pane). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both windscreen wiper arms. 3 Undp tho rubber seal from the relevant end of
the top
of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and Duiout the fasteners securing the bulkhead eovar panel in position. Release the cover panel from the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from Its housing (see lustration).
12.3 Using an olt filter strap to loosen the fuel filter 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter, Clip the filter securely In position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, secunng it >n position with the fasteners, and seat Ihe rubber seal on the bulkhead.
12.4a Removing the fuel filter
15 Steering and §S> suspension check ^
Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of Ihese components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steenng gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the
fplllll iHpjiiisisps fa^aJw a LJgr >
H58B92
12.4b Showing the drain screw components on the bottom of the fuel filter source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement Is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free ptay is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there Is wear In the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint Is worn, the visual movemont will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar. check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.
13.2 Removing the air filter element 14.5 Location of pollen filter 15.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components

Every 20 000 miles - diesel models ib.h
18
Valve clearance check and
adjustment
1 The Importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be Distressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear nas become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be ttcurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right-hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front roadwfteei. 3 Remove ail four glove plugs as described In Chapter 5C. 4 Remove the air cleaner cover and air duct
then
remove the camshaft cover as described
in
Chapter 2C. 6 Each valve clearance must be checked wnen the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances in the firing order 1-3-4-2, No 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between
the heel
of the cam and the cam follower shim of the First valve (see Illustration). If necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the
vafve
clearance tor Ihis particular valve. 8 Turn the engine, check the second valve devance and record it. t Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves. recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs - see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine,
the valve sequence is: Wef 2-4-5-7 Etfiat/sf 7-3-6-8
11 Where clearances are incorrect the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to bo depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job. otherwise you will have to make up a forked lever to locate on the rim of ihe cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim (see illustration). 12 Once Ihe shim is extracted, establish Its thickness and change it for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded clear-ance within specification, For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on ihem; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). 14 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft lor easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the Ihinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and glosvplugs. 18 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
19 Hinge and lock lubrication
I
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock stnkers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
20 Headlight beam adjustment
I
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam Is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of, and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door. 3 Draw a horizontal tine on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car. then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum Illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If not, turn the adjustment screw located on the upper Inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it Is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment,

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.11 Unscrewing the crankshaft pulley bolts
6 Itae crankshaft sprocket Is also equipped •nth a timing mark - when this is aligned with 3relarence marking on the oil pump cover.
Hie
engine is set with cylinders No 1 and 4 at
TDC.
Note that it is the camshaft positioning that determines whether a cylinder is on its comcression or exhaust stroke.

Location
of TDC on cylinder No 1 7 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Chapter 4A or 4B. Remove the
spark
plug from No 1 cylinder as described in Chapter 1A. 8 Firmly apply the handbrake, then |ack up
the
front of the car and support it securely on iiia stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). 9 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 1A. 10 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Mole the bolt located at the bottom of the
coven
this can be easily overlooked. 11 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see {lustration). 12 Turn Ihe engine in its normal direction of rotation (using a socket or spanner on Ihe crankshaft sprocket centre bolt) until pressure an be felt at No
1
cylinder spark plug hole.
1 flfliyflg^ Remove all four spark plugs; "••"•1 this will make the engine HlNTl easier to turn; refer to Chapter 1A for details.
13 Continue turning the engine until the crahaft sprocket TDC timing mark is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head and the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the mark on the oil pump cover (see ilustrations). 14 The engine is now set at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression.
3 Cylinder compression test t ^
1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to tne ignition or fuei systems, a compression isst can provide diagnostic clues as to the
2.13a Camshaft sprocket and cylinder head TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned -shown with timing belt removed engine's condition. II the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fufly charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by dis-connecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cyl-inder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred, 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the lest on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low. carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear Is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a biown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
2.13b Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover TDC timing marks (arrowed) aligned
than the others and Ihe engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special timing belt fens/on measuring toot to correctly set tho timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. It the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known fo be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer foradvSce.
General information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive Ihe camshaft and coolant pump. Should the belt slip or break In service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valvo contact will occur, resulting in serious engine damage, 2 The timing belt should be renewed ai the specified intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier if it is contaminated with oil. or if it is at all noisy in operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear). 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it Is a wise precaution to check the condition of the coolant pump at the same time (check for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fall.
Removal 4 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front road wheel. 5 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 46. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) and the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A.
2A

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.7 Removing the timing belt cover bottom bolt
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom of the cover, this can easily be overlooked (see illustration), 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Set the engine al TDC on No 1 cylinder as described in Section 2. 10 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner, move the lensloner pulley away from the belt and retighten the nut to hold the pulley In the retracted position (see illustration). 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the bell off the sprockets-Note that the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt Is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine ts undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of Its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in sen/ice. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and alt related components, to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting 13 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described In Section 5. 14 When refitting the new belt, make sure that the sprocket liming marks ore still In alignment and fit the belt so that the arrows on the belt point in the direction of engine rotation, and the lines of the belt coincide with the sprocket marks. 15 Engage the timing belt wilh the crankshaft sprocket first, then place it around the coolant pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). Finally slip the bell around the tensioner pulley.
II
4.8 Removing the crankshaft pulley
16 Refease the tensioner nut and Insert the laws of a pair of right-angled clmilp pliers (or similar Into the two holes on the front face of the tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley anticlockwise against the belt until the belt is quite taut. Check lhat the sprocket timing marks have not moved out of alignment. 17 Maintain the effort apptied to the tensioner pulley, then tighten the retaining nut. 18 Turn the crankshaft through two complete turns in the normal direction ot rotation and check that when the centre of (he longest run of the belt Is gripped between finger and thumb It can Just be twisted through 90°. 19 If the belt appears too be too slack or too fight, slacken the tensioner nut and repeat steps 16 to 18 until the correct tension is achieved. Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Flat dealer using specialised checking equipment, at the earliest opportunity. 20 Refit the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, auxiliary drivebelt(s>, spark plugs and the air cleaner/ducting. Adjust the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(sl as described In Chapter 1A. 21 Refit the front wheel and lower the car to the ground.
5 Timing belt tensioner % and sprockets - removal, ^ Inspection and refitting ^
Timing beit tensioner
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described m Chapter 4A or 48, 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebeltfs) as descnbed In Chapter 1A. 4 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket, 5 Unbolt and remove the timing bolt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom ot the cover, this can easily be overlooked.
4.10 Releasing the timing belt tensioner nut
4.15 Fitting the timing belt
6 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder as described In Section 2, 7 Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension* and move the tensioner pulley away from the belt (see Illustration), Keep the belt engaged with the sprockets using a cable-tie or string. 8 Completely unscrew the nut and slide Ihe tensioner off Ihe mounting stud. Inspection 9 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on Its hub by hono. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay is w indication of severe wean the tensioner Is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 10 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut.
S.7 Timing bell tensioner retaining nut (arrowed) - shown with timing belt removed

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
I To make o camshaft sprocket holding ; tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip I about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or ; similar, one €00 mm long, the other 200 mm long (all dimensions approximate). Bolt the two strips together to form a forked end, leaving the bolt slack so that the shorter strip can pivot freely. At the end of each 'prong' of the fork, secure a bolt with a nut and a locknut, to act as the fulcrums; these will engage with the cut-outs In the sprocket, and should protrude by about 30 mm
11 Check and adjust the tension of the timing tel with reference to Section 4. 12 Relit Ihe timing belt cover and tighten the bolts. 13 Relit the crankshaft pulley. 14 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s)
as
described in Chapter 1. 15 Refil the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 16 Refil the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the
ground.

Camshaft
sprocket
Removal 17 Remove the timing bell as described in Section 4. 16 The camshaft sprocket must now be held stationary while the retaining bolt is loosened. To
cto this,
make up a tool as follows and engage it
with the
holes
in
the sprocket (see Tool Tip). 19 Alternatively pass a rod through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to prevent it rotating. Position a pad of rag or a piece of
integral key
securing bolt and washer...
wood under the rod to avoid damaging the cylinder head. 20 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of tho camshaft. Note the integral location key on the inner face of the sprocket (see illustrations). Inspection 21 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 22 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 23 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 24 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten to the specified torque while holding the camshaft stationary using the method described previously. 25 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket
Removal 26 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 27 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a toot which engages the flywheel starter ring gear (see Section 10). Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the stader ring gear. 26 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the
^P
5.32 Tighten the crankshaft sprocket bolt to the specified torque
end of the camshaft Integral location key (arrowed)
crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face (see illustration), or a separate key which locates in a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 29 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 8 and renew it. 30 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 31 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 32 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure it engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 27 (see illustration). 33 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft cover -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct as described in Chapter 4A or 4B. 2 Progressively unscrew the mounting bolts from the top of the camshaft cover and lift off the cover • note the location of any supports on the bolts (see illustration). If it sticks, do
6.2 Removing the camshaft cover