Driver seat FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G User Guide

11 *2 Bodywork and fittings
on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating, or the coating will be removed. Such vehicles should be inspected annually, preferably just prior lo Winter, when the underbody should be washed down, and any damage to the wax coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be applied. It would also be worth considering the use of such wax-based protection for injection into door panels, sills, box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard against rust damage, where such protection Is not provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois feather to give an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish wilt give added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has duiled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher combination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little effort, but such dulling Is usually caused because regular washing has been neglected. Care needs to be taken with metallic paintwork, as special non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to avoid damage to the finish, Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain holes and pipes are completely clear, so that water can be drained out. Brightwork should be treated In the same way as paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which often appears, by the use of proprietary glass cleaner. Nover use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on glass.
Maintenance -upholstery and carpets
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush lo scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get Into the seams and padded interior, causing stains, offensive odours or even rot.
If the Inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, tt Is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry ft out property, particularly where carpets an involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage -repair
Repairs of minor scratches In bodywork If the scratch Is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish, Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to ihe scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint In the scratch Is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow Ihe new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it Into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique Is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in Ihe scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch: this will ensure that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier In this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork When deop denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to put) the dent out. until the affected bodywork almost attains rts onginal shape. There is little polnl in trying to restore Ihe original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It Is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 mm below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In cases where Ihe dent is very shallow anyway, It is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head, Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against (he outside of Ihe panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out".
Should the dent be In a section of (I* bodywork which has a double skin, or seme other factor making It Inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Dull several small holes through the metal inside Ihe area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws Into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair Is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a posver drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal wflhi screwdriver or the tang of 8 file, or alternatively, drill small holes In the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in bodywork Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad
or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper wil do the job most effectively. With the paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expansive as most people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from Ihe affected area, except those which will act as a guide to ttie original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips
or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal snd any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filer paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove tha powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint Ihe affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the beck of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, ft will be necessary to block the hole in some
way.
TNs can be achieved by the use of aluminium cr plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to tha approximate size and shape of tho hole to b« filled, then position it In the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by

11 *12 Bodywork and fittings
switch panel, then remove the panel from the facia (see illustration). Label tho wiring connector to aid refitting, then unplug It. 0 Work along the lower edge of Ihe facia and remove all the securing screws; there are three on the drivers side and three on the passenger side - one is concealed inside the glove compartment, behind a plastic cap. 10 Wilh reference to Chapter 12, remove the cover and open the main fuse box. Where applicable, unscrew the fixings that secure the electronic control unit to Its mounting bracket. Remove the facia mounting bolts located adjacent to the mounting bracket (see illustration). 11 Refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the steering column from Its support bracket, allowing the column to rest in the footwell. There is no need to slacken the clamp bolt at Ihe base of the steering column to separate it from the steering gear. 12 With reference to Chapter 12, remove front right and left speaker grilles. Remove the two facis upper mounting screws ihat are now exposed. Similarly, prise open the plastic cover from centre of upper edge of the fada and remove the mounting screw behind. 13 Carefully pull whole facia moulding forward away from tho bulkhead slightly. Label all wiring connectors to aid correct refitting later, then unplug Ihem. Check that nothing remains connected between the facia and bulkhead then draw the facia moulding away and remove It from the vehicle.
20.8 Remove the bolt (arrowed) and detach the backrest from the mounting bracket
Refitting 14 Refit the facia by following the removal procedure in reverse, noting the following points: a) Reinstate all electrical connections according to (he labels made during removal and ensure that cables are secured in their clips, using the origins/ routing. b) Ensure thai all ventilation ducting locates correctly over the rear of the grilles before tightening the facia retaining screws. c) On completion, reconnect the battery negative cable and chock the operation of all controls, gauges and Instruments disturbed during the removal process, Including the ventilation/heating system.
20 Seats -removal and refitting JS:
Front seats
Removal

A


Warning: On models with seat belt pre-tonsionors, entrust the work of seat removal to a Flat dealer. DQNOTattempt to remove the seat on vehicles so equipped. 1 The front seats frames are secured to the fioorpan by four bolts. Whero applicable, prise out the caps from the plastic trim panel lo expose the bolt heads. 2 Slide the seat towards the rear of the car to gain access to the two bolts at the front, Ihen slacken and withdraw them. 3 Slide Ihe seat fully forwards and remove the two rearmost bolls. 4 Ufl the seat out of the cabin area.
(arrowed) located adjacent to the control unit mounting bracket Refitting 5 Refil the seat by reversing the remove! procedure. Rear seat back rests
Removal 6 Using the hand straps, raise the seal cushion and lilt it fully forward. 7 The rear seat back rests are mounted or hinged brackets which aro boiled to Ihe fioorpan. To remove both back rests together, first remove the screws and detach the load space carpet panel. 8 Unbolt the back rest panel from the mounting brackets (see illustration). Refitting 9 Refit tho back rests by reversing Ihe removal procedure. Rear seat cushion
Removal 10 Using the hand straps, raise the seat cushion and tilt it fully forward. 11 Remove ihe screws Ihat secure Ihe hinged brackets to tho fioorpan. then lift out the cushion (see illustration}. Refitting 12 Refit the seat cushion by reversing Ihe removal procedure.
20.11 Remove the screws (arrowed) that secure the hinged brackets to the fioorpan