lock FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
9.1a Removing the oil return tube from the crankcase
pulling on the screw with a pair of grips, or by using a slide hammer. 2 Where applicable, undo Ihe retaining bolts and remove the piston oil Jet spray tubes from inside Ihe cylinder block. 3 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder block/crankcase, taking care not to damage ihe gasket/sealing surfaces. 4 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted). The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes re-tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. 5 If the block is very dirty have it steam-cleaned, otherwise use paraffin to clean it. 6 Clean all oil holes and oil galleries again and dry thoroughly, then apply a light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to prevent rusting. Smear the cylinder bores with a light coating of oil. 7 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly. To clean the threads, run the correct-size tap Into each of the holes to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation. 8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes In the block. Tighten them securely, 9 Where applicable, refit the piston oil jet spray tubes to the cylinder block, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. Bend over the tabs to lock the bolts (see illustration). 10 Fit the new core plugs with sealant applied to their perimeters before using a suitable metal tube to drive them into position. 11 Refit the oil return tube to the crankcase and tighten the mounting bolts. 12 Refit the Injection pump/oil filter bracket together with a new gasket and lighten the bolts. 13 Refit the rear engine plate and tighten the bolts. Also refit 8ny other removed brackets etc.
Inspection 14 Visually check the cylinder block (or cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal water leakage, it may bo worthwhile having on engine overhaul
9.1b Removing tho injection pump/oil filter bracket 9.1c Removing the injection pump/oil filter bracket gasket from the cyilndor block
9.1 d Removing the intermediate shaft bracket specialist check it with special equipment. 15 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. Indicating that the bore Is excessively worn. 16 If the necessary measuring equipment is available, measure the bore diameters at the top Oust under the wear ridge), centre, and bottom, parallel to the crankshaft axis. 17 Next, measure the bore diameters at the same three locations, at right-angles to the crankshaft axis. If there is any doubt about the condition of the cylinder bores seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or suitable engine reconditioning specialist. 18 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover It with a large plastic bag to keep it clean and prevent rusting. If the engine is ready for reassembly, refit all the components and brackets removed.
9.1e Removing the oil vapour breather casing
10 Main and big-end bearings - ^ inspection and selection 5
Inspection 1 Even though the main and big-end bearings should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration overleaf). The bearing shells are available in different thicknesses to match the diameter of the Journal. 2 Bearing failure can occur due to lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.18 Angle-tightening the main bearing cap bolts (petrol engine)
12.Ida Application area for silicone Instant gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine) 12.19b Refitting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine)
19 Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Apply grease to the seal lips. On 1108 cc petrol engines a conventional gasket Is not used at the oil seal retainer joint face, but a 3 mm diameter bead of RTV (Instant) silicone gasket must be applied as shown -allow at least one hour 1or the gasket to cure before oil contacts it. On all other engines a gasket Is fitted Securely tighten the housing bolts (see Illustrations). 20 Check that Ihe crankshaft rotates freely by turning It by hand. If resistance Is fell, re-check the running clearances, as described above. 21 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat as described at the beginning of Section 8. If the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked and new thrust washers hove been fitted, then the endfioat should be within specification.
22 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. 23 Refit the flywheeVdriveplate, and-vibration plate (16-valvo engines), oil pump and pick-up tube, and sump with reference to the relevant Sections of Parts A, B or C of this Chapter.
13 Engine -initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly
1 With the engine refitted In the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left In the engine compartment.
Petrol engine models 2 Remove the spark plugs, then disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition colls. 3 Turn the engine on the starter until Ihe oi pressure warning light goes out. Refit ihe spark plugs, and reconnect the LT wiring.
Diesel engine models 4 Disconnect tho wiring from the stop solenoid on the Injection pump, then turn the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Reconnect ihe wire to the stop solenoid. 6 Fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn tho ignition key to its first position and wait tor HHJ preheating warning light to go out.
All models 6 Start the engine, noting that this may take i little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components having been disturbed.
12.19c On diesel engines use a screwdriver to prise out the rear oil seal 12.19d Locate the new oil soalln the housing (diosel engine)... 12.19e ... and use a block of wood to drive it in
12.19f On Diesel engines fit the gasket to the cylinder block ... 12.19g ... then locate the rear oli seal housing... 12.19h ... and Insert the bolts

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
3.4b On diesel engine models, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the radiator 3.5 Unscrew the bolts securing the radiator to the uppor body panel
3.8 Disengage the lower mountings studs from the onglne compartment lower crossmember
4.6a Removing the thermostat housing (petrol engine) 4.6b Thermostat housing location - Ignition distributor removed for clarity (petrol engine) ? Withdraw the mounting brackets (where applicable), and recover the upper mounting rubbers. 8 Carefully tilt the radiator back towards the engine, then disengage the lower mountings studs from the crossmember and lift the radiator from the engine compartment (see illustration). Recover the lower mounting rubbers if they are loose. Inspect/on 9II the radiator has been removed due to suspected blockage, it may be flushed out as descnbed in Chapter lAor 10. Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins, using an air line fn which case, wear eye protection) or a soft Brush. Be careful, as the fins are sharp, and
can
also be easily damaged. ID If necessary, a radiator specialist can perform a flow test on the radiator, to establish whether an internal blockage exists. 11 A leaking radiator must be referred to a specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as damage to the plastic components may result. Note: In
an emergency,
minor
leaks
from the radiator can often be cured by using a suitable radiator seat'ng compound, in accordance with its manu-
facturer's
instructions, with the radiator in situ. 12 If the radiator is to be sent for repair or is
to
be renewed, remove all hoses (and where
applicable, the cooling fan switch). 13 Inspect Ihe radiator mounting rubbers, and renew them if necessary. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the radiator lower lugs engage correctly with the lower mounting rubbers. b) On completion, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or IB.
Thermostat - Jk removal, testing and refitting #
General 1 The thermostat housing Is bolted to the left hand end of the cylinder head. The thermostat itself cannot be separated from the housing and can only be renewed as part of a complete assembly.
Removal 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On diesel engine models, unbolt the wiring harness/fuel hose support bracket from the housing. On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine
models, remove the air cleaner and inlet ducts as descnbed in Chapter 4B. 4 Slacken the clipfs) and detach the coolant hose(s) from the thermostai housing, Make a careful note of their orientation to aid refitting. 5 Where applicable, disconnect the wiring plug from the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor, which are threaded into the thermostat cover. 6 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head (see illustrations). If it sticks, tap it gently first on one side and then the other to free it - do not lever between the mating faces. Recover the remains of the old c,
4.6c Removing the thermostat housing (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
4 If the motor operates when tested as described, (he fault must lie In the engine wring harness or the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor/switch can be tested as described in Section 6. Any further fault Diagnosis should be referred to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer - do not attempt to test
Ihe
electronic control unit.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/scon oecf/ng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray to improve access. On 1242 cc {16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and
inset
ducts as described in Chapter 4B. 1 Disconnect the motor wiring connectorfs). 8 Unbolt the shroud from the rear of the ratiator. then lift out the cooling fan assembly. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal
6 Cooling fan switch -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 The switch is threaded into the lower left
nand
comer of the radiator. 2 The switch can be tested by removing it,
and
checking that the switching action occurs
at
the correct temperature {heat the sensor in a container of water, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer). 3 There should be no continuity between the switch terminals, until Ihe specified cooling fan cut-In temperature Is reached, when continuity (and zero resistance) should exist between the terminals.
Removal 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 5 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1Aor 1B. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
bolts...
7 Carefully unscrew the sensor and. whore applicable, recover the sealing ring. Refitting 8 If the sensor was originally fitted using sealing compound, clean the sensor threads thoroughly, and coat them with fresh sealing compound. 9 If the sensor was originally fitted using a sealing ring, use a new sealing ring on refitting. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. 11 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Continue to run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in and out correctly.
7 Coolant pump • & removal, inspection 5 and refitting
Removal
Petrol engine models 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system and remove the auxiliary drivebett(s) as described In Chapter 1 A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts/nuts, and withdraw the coolant pump (see illustrations).
7.9b ... and lift off the pulley (diesel engine)
(petrol engine) If the pump Is stuck, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet - do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Diesel engine models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/s connecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as descnbed In Chapter 1B. 6 On models fitted with power steenng, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump from its mountings; this can be achieved without disconnecting the power steering fluid hoses from the pump. Tie the pump away from the work area, taking care to avoid kinking the fluid hoses. 9 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the coolant pump pulley. It will be necessary to counterhold the pulley In order to unscrew the bolts, and this is most easily achieved by wrapping an old drivebelt tightly around the pulley to act in a similar manner to a strap 3 wrench. Alternatively, a stout screwdriver can be braced between two of the pulley bolts while the third is slackened (see illustrations). 10 Disconnect ihe bypass hoses from the coolant pump outlet stubs. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdraw the coolant pump assembly. Note that the pump must be detached from the transfer pipe than runs behind the cylinder block to the thermostat housing (see illustration). The pipe is a push fit in the port on the rear of the coolant pump
7.11 Removing the coolant pump assembly (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
2.4a Disconnect the large breather hose... ziecessary when handling it cannot be mrstressed. Note that residual pressure
wttf
remain in the tuei lines long after the wh/cte was last used, When disconnecting any fuel line, first depressurise the fuel
system
(see Section 8).
2 Air cleaner and intet system • removal and refitting
1
Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment l
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Disconnect the outer section from the hot
air
tube and the inlet air duct and remove it
from
the engine compartment. 3II necessary remove the inlet air duct. 4 Disconnect Ihe large and small breather
roses
from the inner section of the air cleaner, tftsn unscrew the retaining nuts and lift the section from the throttle body (see lustrations).
5
Recover the sealing ring. Check the ring for condition and renew it if necessary.
6
Wipe clean the inner surfaces of both the merand outer sections of the air cleaner. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal ol removal but renew
tie
element
H
necessary.
3 Inlet air temperature regulator -removal and refitting
Removal t
The
thermostatically-controlled cold air flap cpener is located in the air cleaner outer ttsrig section. To check the unit, disconnect
ire air
inlet duct with the engine cold and use imrrorto check that the flap Is positioned to aJmit only hot air from the shroud on the utaust manifold. Next, warm up the engine
and
check that the flap moves to admit only sett air from the inlet duct. If the unit is faulty fl must be renewed.
2
Remove the air cleaner element as •senbod in Chapter
1
A.
kickdown cable adjustment as described in Chapter 7B before adjusting the accelerator cable • in its rest position the accelerator pedal should have approximately 8.0 mm free travel.
5 Engine management system components -removal and refitting I
2.4b ... and the small breather hose ...
3 Unscrew the retaining screw and remove the regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet ducting as desenbed in Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket. 3 Working under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from Inside the engine compartment.
Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts) so that there is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cable. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the throttle cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then secureJy tighten the cable locknuts. On Selecta models, check the
Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as desenbed in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, idle control stepper motor, inlet air temperature sensor and the injector wiring loom connector situated on the front of the throttle body. 3 Depressurise the fuel system with reference to Section 8, then release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the throttle body assembly, if the original Fiat retaining clips are still fitted, cut the clips and discard them; replace them with standard luel hose clips on refitting. 4 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and froe tho outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 5 Disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and the MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body. 6 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to tho Inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure, bearing in mind the following points: a) Examine the insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew //necessary, b) Ensure that the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer ma ting surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts.
2.4c ... then remove the retaining nuts. 2.4d ... and remove the air cleaner inner section