Rear FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Manual PDF

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

A


Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

A


Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...

Suspension and steering 10*4
3.2 Release the brake fluid line (and where applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from the strut
3 Front suspension strut -removal, overhaul and refitting *

A


Warning: If renewing the Strut damper during overhaul both the left and right hand dampers should be renewed as a pair, to preserve the handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Removal 1 Chock the resr wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the fronl of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Release the brake fluid line (and wnere
3.3a Remove the two bolts (arrowed)...
applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from Ihe bracket on the base of the strut (see illustration). 3 Remove the two nuts from Ihe bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub carrier, noting that the nuls fit on the rear side of the strut (see illustrations). Withdraw the bolts, and support the hub carrier. Discard the bolts and nuts • new ones should be used on refitting. 4 Have an assistant support the strut from underneath the wheel arch then, working In the engine compartment, unscrew the two bolts and release the two stud clips that secure the strut upper mounting plate to the suspension turret. Do not unscrew the centre damper rod nut yet. Release the lower end ol the strut from the hub carrier, then withdraw the assembly from under the wheel arch.
3.7 Fully unsorew and remove tho damper rod top nut 3.3a Withdraw the washer.
3.3b ... and detach the lower end of the strut from the hub carrier
Overhaul Note: Suitable coil spring compressor fools will be required for this operation, and a
new
damper rod top nut must be used on reassembly. 5 Clamp Ihe lower end of Ihe strut in a vice fitted with jaw protectors - take care to avois deforming the mounting bracket at the lower end of the strut. Remove the protective plastic cap from the top of the strut. 6 Fit suitable spring compressors to the coil spring, and compress Ihe spring sutllciently to enable the upper spring seat to be turned by nand.

A


Warning: Ensure that the coil spring Is compressed sufficiently to remove all the tension from
tha
upper spring seat, before attempting to remove the damper rod nut. 7 Fully unscrew and remove the damper rod top nut. Countorhofd the domper rod. using
a
suitable Allen key or hex bit. as tho nut * unscrewed • do not allow the rod to rotate inside the damper (see Illustration). Discard the nut • a new one must be used on reassembly. 8 Withdraw tho washer, bush, upper mounting plate and upper spring seat • make a careful note of the order of assembly (see illustrations). 9 Withdraw the spring, complete with the compressors, thon v/ithdraw the dust cover, bump rubber and Ihe lower spring seat rubber (where fitted) (see illustrations).

Suspension and steering 10*6
hub earner, then fit the securing bolts and nuts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut, and tighten to the specified torque (see illustrations). 20 Refit the brake fluid line to the bracket on Ihe base of the strut. 21 Where applicable, press the ABS wheel sensor winng into its retaining bracket. 22 Refit the roadwheel. and lower the vehicle to the ground.
4 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 3.19a Fit the securing bolts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut...
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on either side ot Ihe vehicle. Similarly, unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension sub-frame (see illust-rations). Allow the ends of the anti-roll bar to pivot away from the suspension lower arms. 3 With reference to Section 2, unscrew Ihe nut. withdraw the clamp bolt and lever the end of the suspension lower arm down to release it from the base of the hub carrier.
4.2s Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar mountings to tho suspension lower arms...
4 Unscrow the two bolts and detach the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe (see Illustration). 5 Slacken and remove the nut from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting (seo illustration). Withdraw the bolt. 6 Withdraw Ihe suspension lower arm from under the vehicle. 7 With the lower arm removed, examine the lower arm Itself, and the mounting bushes, for wear, cracks or damage. S Check the balljoint for wear, excessive play, or stiffness. Also check Ihe balljoint dust boot for cracks or damage. 9 The mounting bushes and balljoint assembly are integral with the lower arm. and cannot be renewed independently. If either the bushes or the balljoint are worn or damaged, the complete lower arm assembly must be renewed.
Refitting Caution: Final tightening of all fixings must be carried out with the vehicle resting on Its wheels, or damage to the rubbor bushes will result 10 Offer the suspension arm up lo Its mountings. Fit the through-bolt to the front mounting bracket and engage it with the suspension arm bush. Fit Ihe securing nut. but do not fully tighten it at this stage.
. and tho suspension sub-frame (arrowed) 4.4 Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed) and detaoh the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe
3.19b ... and tighten them to the specified torque
11 Bolt Ihe rear mounting bracket to the subframe, but do not fully tighten the bolts a! this stage, 12 Engage the lower arm balljoint svith ifia hub carrier, then refii the balljoint clamp boll and nut. Do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 13 Raise the anti-roll bar into position. Itan bolt the mounting brackets to the subfrarra The anti-roll bar must be pre-loaded before lis outer mounting brackets can be bolted to the suspension arms. Do this by raising tha erds of the anti-roll bar with a trolley jack and holding them in this position whilst the bracket mounting bolts are inserted and hand tightened. Do not fully tighten the bolls at trts stage, line up the holes at the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension lower arm. 14 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehrcfe to the ground. 15 Make sure that the vehicle is parked on level ground, then release the handbrake. Red the vehicle backwards and forwards, arc bounce the front of the vehicle to settle the suspension components. 16 Chock the wheels, then tighten all lit* anti-roll bar and suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts to the specified torque 17 On completion the front wheel alignment should be chocked by a Fiat dealer.
4.5 Slacken and romove tho nut (arrowed! from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting

Suspension and steering
10*195

5 Front suspension >,•> tower arm balljoint -renewal ^
The balljoint is integral with the suspension ower arm (see Illustration). If the balljoint is worn or damaged, the complete lower arm oust be renewed as described In Section 4.
6 Front suspension ^ anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting s^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands •we Jacking and vehicle support). If required, wove the relevant roadwheels. 2 Refer to the Chapter 4D and unbolt the hnt section of the exhaust pipe. 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on ether side of the vehicle. Similarly, unscrew
ine
bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings lo the suspension sub-frame (refer to the Derations in Section 4). 4 lower the anti-roll bar away from the underside of the vehicle. 5 Inspect the rubber bushes for cracks or ietertoratlon, If renewal Is necessary, slide the dd bushes from the bar, and fit the now items, using soapy water as a lubricant. Do rot apply grease or oil as this will attack the •ifiber. 9 Check the anti-roll bar for signs of damage, war or serious corrosion. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mnd
the following points: sj
D'rw
up the holes af the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension iov/erarm. til
Tighten
all fixings to the specified torque, but do not do this until the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels, and the suspension has been settled, or damage to the bushes may result.
7.5 Slacken and remove the rear hub nut
5.1 Front suspension lower arm balljoint
7 Rear hub bearings -renewal
Note: 77ie bearing will be destroyed during the removal operation, and a new rear hub/ bearing assembly must be used on refitting -the old hub cannot be re-used. A new rear hub nut must be used on refitting. 1 The rear hub bearings are integral with the hubs themselves, and cannot be renewed separately, tf the bearings require renewal, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle slands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 3 Remove the brake drum as described In Chapter 9. Do not depress the brake pedal whilst the brake drum is removed. 4 Prise the dust cap from the hub. using a mallet and punch. 5 Slacken and remove the hub nut and recover the washer/spacers (see illustration). Caution: The nut Is tightened to a very high torque. Use a long extension bar to remove the nut and ensure that you have access to torque wrench capable of tightening the new nut to the speclfiod torque setting, before removing the existing nut 6 Withdraw Ihe hub and bearing assembly from the stub axle, and recover the inner washer. Discard the hub nut - a new one must be used on refitting.
1
8.3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining bolt (arrowed)
7 Thoroughly clean tho stub axle, then slide the inner washer and new hub assembly into position. 8 Fit the outer washer, then thread a new hub nut onto the end of the stub axle by hand - do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 9 Refit the brake drum (Chapter 9). 10 Tighten the hub nut to the specified torque, then check that the hub spins smoothly and freely. Carefully tap the dust cap into position over the nut. 11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the road-wheel bolts to the specified torque.
8 Rear suspension components -removal, overhaul and refitting ^
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
Damper
Removal 2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the damper. 3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining boll (see Illustration). 4 Lower the jack and allow the damper to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring. 5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (see illustration). 6 Lower the damper away from the suspension subframe. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the damper upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the road-wheels • this prevents the damper bushes from being strained.
Coil spring
Removal 8 With reference to the previous sub-Section.
8.5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (arrowed)

Suspension and steering 10*8
9.1 Prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub unbolt the lower end of the damper from the trailing arm. 9 Lower the trailing arm gradually using a trolley jack, until the coil spring Is released from its lower seat on the trailing arm and its upper seat on the subframe. Make a note of the orientation of the coll spring, to aid correct refitting later. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, lighten the damper lower retaining bolt to the specified torque. Trailing arm Note: The rear stub axles are integral with the trailing arm assemblies and cannot be renewed separately. Removal 11 With reference to Chapter 9. carry out the following: a) Remove the brake drum, shoes and adjuster assembly. b) Unbolt the brake hose union from the
rear
of the wheel cylinder. c) Unbolt the brake pipe mounting bracket from the trailing arm. 12 Refer to Section 7 and remove The rear hub and beanng assembly. 13 With reference to the relevant sub-Section, unbolt the lower end of Ihe damper from the trailing arm. 14 Raise the trailing arm using a trolley jack so that the coll spring Is compressed, then slacken and withdraw the trailing arm front mounting bolL 15 With reference to the previous sub-Section, gradually lower the trailing arm using a trolley lack and remove the coll spring. 16 Allow Ihe trailing arm to hang down, then pull the leading edge of the arm down from its mounting bracket. Refitting 17 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Tighten all suspension fixings to the specified torque settings, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the roadwheeis -this prevents the damper and trailing arm bushes from being strained. 18 On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic system and adjust the operation of the handbrake, with reference to Chapter 9.
9.2 Unplug the wiring from the centre pad at the connector(s)
9 Steering wheel - % removal and refitting ^
Note: This procedure does not apply to vehicles fitted with an airbag A Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongly advisod to entrust to an authorised Fiat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbeg system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage. In addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check thet the alrbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
Removal 1 Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub. Use the blade of a screwdriver, padded with PVC tape to protect the steering wheel (see illustration) 2 Unplug the horn and (where applicable) radio/cassette control switch wiring from the centre pad at the connectors) (see illustration) 3 Turn the steering wheel to its centre position, so that the roadwheeis are pointing straight ahead. 4 Make alignment marks between the steering wheel and the end of the steering column shaft, to aid correct refitting later, 5 Relieve the staking and then slacken and remove tne steenng wheel securing nut (see
9.5 Slacken and remove the steering wheel securing nut Illustration). Discard the nut as a new item must used on refitting. 6 Lift the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is tight, tap il near the centre, usrg the palm of your hand, or twist it from
side to
side, whilst pulling upwards to release il ton the shaft splines. If the wheel is particular tight, a suitable puller should be used.
Refitting 7 Before commencing refitting, lightly eca. Ihe surfaces of the direction indicator cancelling mechanism with grease. 8 Refitting is a reversal of ren>oval.
bearing a
mind the following points: a) Use a new steering wheel
securing not
and tighten it to the specified
torque.
Ensure that its outer collar
Is adequate^
staked to the column shaft
using a
hammer and punch (see Illustrations). b) Ensure that the direction Indicator
swiith
is in the central (cancelled/off)
position,
otherv/ise the sivitch may be damaged X the wheel Is refitted. c) Align the marks made on the
wheel and
Ihe steering column shaft during removeI 9 Note that if necessary, the position of tf* steering wheel on the column shaft cant* | altered in order to centralise the wheel (enstn that the front roadwheeis aro pointing
In the
straight-ahead position), by moving the vMti the required number of splines on the
sfcafc
Fine adjustment can be carried out by adjusting the length of both track-rwa simultaneously, but this operation is best entrusted to a Rat dealer or tyre specialist
9.8a Fit a new steering wheet securing nut... 9.3b ... and stake it to the steering column shaft using o hammer and punch

Suspension and steering 10*9
10.3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of tho lock assembly
10 Ignition switch/ steering column lock • ^ removal and refitting ^
Caul/on: The Ignition switch/steering column lock has on integral and-tho ft mechanism. Any attempt to rofafe tho lock shaft using tools (lo without using the correct key) results in the steering column tebg locked and Irreparable damage to the lock mechanism. This renders the vehicle
unusable
until tho lock assembly Is renewed.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual}. 2 Remove the lower section of the steering column shroud.
11.3a Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key...
f
10.4 On vehicles fitted with a Flat Immobiliser, uncllp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder 3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of the lock assembly (see illustration). 4 On vehicles fitted with a Fiat immobiliser. uncltp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder (see illustration). Insert the key Into the ignition switch and turn it to the ON position. 5 Working underneath the steering column, insert a small fiat bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket. Depress Ihe release button and withdraw the lock assembly from Its bracket, complete with the key (see illustrations).
Refitting 6 To refit the lock, first inserl the hey and turn it to the ON position. Depress the release button slide the assembly into the retaining bracket until the release button clicks Into the access slot. 7 Turn the key back to the OFF position, then reconnect the wmng connector. 8 Relit the steering column lower shroud. 9 Reconnect the negative cable to the battery terminal.
11 Steering column - ^ removal, overhaul and refitting jK
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the steenng wheel (Section 9).
10.5a Insert a small, flat-bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket
10.5b Depress tho release button and withdraw the lock cylinder
3 Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key and remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the steering column (see illustrations) 4 Working as described in Chapter 12. Section 14. remove the column stalk switch assembly, 5 Unplug the wiring from the rear of the ignition switch/column lock at the multi-way connector • refer to Section 10 for details. 6 Working in the drivers footweli. peel back the carpet trim to gam access to the base of the steering column. Slacken the nut and clamp bolt on the lower half of the universal joint (see illustration). 7 Remove Ihe nuts from the four upper steenng column mounting bolts and lower the assembly away from the bulkhead bracket (see illustration).
11.7 Remove the nuts from the four upper steering column mounting bolts (two arrowed, two concealed)
11.3b ... end remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the 11-6 Slacken the nut (arrowed) and clamp steering column bolt on the lower half of the universal joint

10*10 Suspension and steering
12.8 Slacken and remove the two steering goar-to-subirame bolts (arrowed) 8 Disconnect the universal joint at the base of the steering column from the steering gear pinion. Note the position of tho safety clip • this must be refitted In the same position on reassembly. 9 Remove Ihe steering column from the vehicle.
Overhaul 10 The hoight adjustment mechanism can be removed by removing the nut from the end of the pivot shaft and withdrawing it. 11 The upper and lower bushes are held in position by staking at the ends of the column tube. Relieve the staking using a mallet and punch to extract the bushes. 12 Check for excessive radial and axial play In the universal joints at both ends of the lower steering column. The lower section of the steering column may be renewed separately if required, by slackening the clamp bolt and detaching It from the upper section. 13 If the vehicle has been Involved in an accident, check for deformation In all ol the steering column components, particularly the mounting bracket and centre tube. Renew as required.
Refitting 14 Refitting the steering column is by following the removal procedure in reverse. Tighten all fixings to Ihe specified torque setting.
12 ManuaJ steering fk gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front road wheels. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reference to Section 11. slacken the clamp boil at the base of steering column lower universal |o!nt, to separate it rrom the steering gear pinion.
12.9 Unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (arrowed) 4 Remove the safety clip from the steering gear pinion, noting Its fitted position to aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and dotach the track* rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, using a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the clips and detach the gear selection cable and the reverse gear inhibitor cable from the steenng gear. 7 Delach the gear selector rod from the top of the steering gear, 8 Slacken and remove the two steering gear-to-subframe bolts (see Illustration) 9 Support the underside of the transmission using a trolley jack, then unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (see illustration) 10 With reference to Chapter 4D. unbolt the front section of the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. 11 Unclip the plastic steenng gear pinion cup from ihe bulkhead. 12 Withdraw the steenng gear through the wheel arch.
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following: a) Tighten all fixings lo the specified torque settings. b) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest opportunity by a Fiat dealer or a tyro specialist.
13.10 Disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes (arrowed) from the power steering gear
13 Power steering * gear assembly - J removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply tN handbrake, then jack up the front ot thi vehicle and support securely on axle standi (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front roadwheels to improve access. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In tto Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reforence to Section 11, slacken ihe clamp bolt at the base of steering cohimn lower universal joint, to separate ll from Ihe steering gear pinion. 4 Remove the safety clip from the steenng gear pinion, noting its fitted position lo aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound Insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and detach the track-rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, usty a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, ranwvi the clips and detach the power steering fluid pipe from the steering gear casing. 7 With reference to Chapter 40, unboil lbs front section of the exhaust pipe from the manifold and catalytic converter/intermediate silencer (as applicable). 8 Refer to Chaptor 7A and disconnect the gear selector rod from the relay rod Disconnect the relay rod from the mounting on the top of the steering gear casing. 9 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or
an
old poultry baster. 10 Slacken the unions and disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes from the power steering gear. Be prepared for an amount
erf
fluid loss - position a container underneath the unions and pad the surrounding area wth absorbent rags (see Illustration). 11 Slacken and remove the two sleeting gear-to-subframe bolts (see illustrations). 12 Support the engine and tronsmission assembly using either blocks of wood positioned under the transmission casing,
or a
lifting beam positioned across the engine
bay

13.11a Slacken and remove the right-hand...

Suspension and steering 10*11
13.11b ... and left-hand steering gear-to-subframe bolts
hooked onto the engine lifting eyelet on the cylinder head. Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the transmission-lo-subframe rear mounting bracket. 13 Position a trolley jack under the right hand skle of the subframe crossmember. Raise the jack to take the weight of the crossmember
and
the attached components. 14 With reference to Section 4, slacken and remove the two bolts that secure the suspension lower arm rear bush to the subframe. Slacken and withdraw the subframe-to-bodywork bolt, located adjacent to the rear of the suspension lower arm. Throad two flange head bolts of the same thread size, but approximately 25 mm longer into the vacated holes, then carefully lower
the
trolley jack and allow ihe subframe to rest on the heads of the temporary bolts (see (lustration), 15 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 13 end 14 at the left-hand side of the vehicle. On completion, the subframe should be resting at
&
height approximately 25 mm lower than normal. 16 The additional clearance will now permit the steering gear pinion to be lowered away from the bulkhead. When the end of the pinion has cleared Ihe aperture, manoeuvre the entire steering gear assembly through the *tiae?arch.
Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the
following points: s) Remote the temporary bolts and refit the original length fixings.
13.14 Slacken and remove the subframe-to-bodywork bolts (arrowed)
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque settings. c) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (see Lubricants and fluids In Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described in Section 15. d) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest oppor-tunity by a Flat dealer or a tyre specialist.
14 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal <
Note: New gaiter retaining clips should be used on refitting. 1 Remove the relevant track-rod end as described in Section 17. 2 If not already done, unscresv the track-rod end locknut from Ihe end of the track-rod. 3 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter on the track-rod, then release the gaiter securing clips. Slide the gailer from the steering gear, and off the end of the track-rod. 4 Thoroughly clean tho track-rod and the steering gear housing, usrng fine abrasive paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or sharp edges, which might damage the new gaiter sealing lips on installation. Scrape off all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it to the track-rod inner balljoint. (This assumes that grease has not been lost or contaminated as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use fresh crease if In doubt.) 5 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track-rod. and locate it on the steering gear housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter with the mark made on the track-rod prior to removal, then secure it in position with new retaining clips. 6 Screw the track-rod end locknut onto the end of the track-rod. 7 Refit the track-rod end as described in Section 17.
15 Power steering hydraulic system • bleeding ^
General 1 The following symptoms indicate that there is air present In the power steering hydraulic system: a) Generation of air bubbles in fluid reservoir. b) Clicking noises from power steering pump. c) Excessive buzzing or groaning from power steering pump. 2 Note that when the vehicle Is stationary, or while moving the steering wheel slowly, a hissing noise may be produced In the steering gear or the fluid pump. This noise is inherent in the system, and does not indicate any cause for concern.
Bleeding 3 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Check the fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (bear in mind that the vehicle will be tilted, so the level cannot be read accurately), and if necessary top-up to just above the relevant level mark. 5 Have an assistant tum the steering quickly from lock to lock, and observe tho fluid level, if the fluid level drops, add more fluid, and repeat the operation until the fluid level no longer drops. Failure to achieve this within a reasonable period may indicate a leak in the system. 6 Stan the engine and repeat the procedure described In the previous paragraph. 7 Once the fluid level has stabilised, and all air has been bled from the system, lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Power steering pump - Sk removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or an old poultry baster. 2 Remove the clip and disconnect the rubber fluid supply hose from the port on the top of the power steering pump. Be prepared for an amount of fluid loss • position a container underneath the port and pad the surrounding area with absorbent rags. 3 Slacken the union and disconnect the fluid delivery hose from the side of the power steering pump. Again, be prepared for an amount of fluid loss. 4 Unscrew tho clamp bolt and through-bolt at either end of the drivebelt guard, then detach Ihe guard from the power steering pump (see illustrations). 5 Partially unscresv the two power steering pump mounting bolts then rotate the pump towards the engine slightly, to release the tension from the belt. Carefully ease the drivebelt from the pump pulley.
16.4a Unscrew the clamp bolt...