check engine light FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And User Guide

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

• Whenever a light fails to
work, check its fuse before
replacing the bulb.
• A blown bulb often causes a fuse to 'go' in
sympathy.
hands, looking and feeling for any bulges, tears or splits in the
tyre walls, especially the inner sidewalls. (See Job 59 for spare
tyre checks.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: In time, rubber deteriorates,
increasing the risk of a blow-out. Keep your eye on the
sidewalls of older tyres. If you see any cracking, splits or
other damage scrap the tyre. If you're not sure, consult
your FIAT dealer or tyre specialist. Q
_) Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs.
7A. Pull off the
headlight multi-
plug (A) and peel
the rubber cover
(B) from the back
of the headlight.
7B. Unhook the
bulb securing
spring (C) from the
retention clip by
squeezing inwards
(arrowed) and
withdraw the bulb
(D).
Without touching the bulb glass, fit the new bulb. A locating
tag ensures it only goes in in the correct position. Refit and
reconnect in the reverse order.
HEADLIGHTS
IMPORTANT NOTE: On Diesel models with the air filter
mounted behind the right-hand headlight unit, you will
first have to remove the large hose, unscrew the clamp
nut and take off the air filter assembly. See Job 31. On
later models, there is sometimes an air intake silencer in
the same place.
7F. Slide the unit towards the front of the car, then pull out
from the panel. Turn the bulbholder (A) anti-clockwise,
remove it, and pull out the press-fit 12V/5W bulb.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
ROUND TYPE
holder is pushed in slightly, turned anti-clockwise and
removed. The bulb (B) is a push-fit within it.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
TURBO DIESEL
MODELS
7D. Remove the
lens (B) by
inserting a screw-
driver as shown
and pressing down
the tab (A). You
can easily remove
the bulbs with the
lens removed.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
ALL OTHER
MODELS
7E. From inside the
engine bay, turn
the bulbholder
slightly, anti-
clockwise, and pull
out. Remove the
bulb (B) and press
in a new one. Push
in and twist
clockwise.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
RECTANGULAR TYPE
CAS / * touc^ a halogen
• headlight (or driving light)
bulb with bare fingers you

will
shorten its life, so handle with a piece of
tissue

paper. If the bulb is touched, wipe it carefully with
methylated spirit.
FRONT SIDE
LIGHTS

7C.
The side light
bulb holder is
under the main
headlight bulb.
The bayonet-type
7G. Twist the lens (A) anti-clockwise and remove it. The push-
in bulb can be pulled out and replaced.

8D. To prevent the rubber sealing
ring on the new filter from
buckling or twisting out of shape
while tightening, smear it with
clean oil.
8E. Screw the new filter onto the
stub by hand. When the rubber
sealing ring contacts its seat,
continue to turn the
filter a further 3/4
of a turn, by hand
only. Over-tight-
ening the filter
makes it difficult to
remove at the next
oil change and can
buckle the seal,
causing a leak.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: It isn't necessary to use
excessive force when refitting the sump plug. Simply grip
the spanner (no need for an extension, now!) so that the
thumb rests on the spanner head, limiting the amount of
leverage that can be applied. Use firm pressure only.
Before refitting the plug, wipe around the drain hole
with a piece of clean cloth to remove any dirt. II
8F. Pour in the correct quantity of
Selenia engine oil (see Chapter
3, Facts and Figures) and check
the level against the dipstick.
Note that the empty oil filter will
cause the level to drop slightly
when the engine is started and
the oil flows into it. Before using
the car, run the engine for two
minutes, turn off, leave to stand
for a few minutes and then
recheck and correct the oil level.
• Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation.
10B. H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the gasket sticks
-

which it
frequently does -
DON'T lever the
Q Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances.
The valve gear clearances need to be checked at the appro-
priate intervals, when the engine is cold.
ALL PETROL AND DIESEL ENGINES
10A. Remove the
air cleaner (where
necessary)
-
see Job
30 then remove the
bolts holding the
camshaft cover in
place. This is the
petrol engine with
air filter removed...
cover or your
could or you could
easily damage it.
Use a spatula to push through the soft joint until the
gasket/cover comes free. D
10C. E3 INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The oil level inside
the housing is
above the level of
the bottom of the
cover plate on
these engines.
Try: i) raising the
front of the car as
high as safely possible, so that oil drains out of the back
of the housing; ii) stuffing cloths beneath the opening
and have more ready, for mopping up; iii) being ready to
clean off the front of the engine with degreaser, when
the job is finished. D
10D. The valve
clearance is
measured directly
beneath the cam
and must be
checked when the
high point of the
cam (arrowed) is
pointing directly
upwards and away
9. Check the
condition of the
breather hose from
the valve cover or
cam cover to the air
cleaner. If the pipe
has become
blocked or
damaged, replace
it, transferring the
flame trap from inside the old pipe to the new one. On some
models, you will have to remove the air filter housing to get at
the crankcase ventilation pipe beneath. Note this type of
spring clip
-
use pliers to slacken-off when removing or re-
fitting.
Try different feeler gauge thicknesses until you find one that's
a tight sliding fit between cam and follower. Make a written
note of each clearance starting with number
1
at the timing
belt end of the engine.
from the cam follower.

• Job 20. Check/adjust clutch. CABLE OPERATED CLUTCH
The clutch mechanism is self-adjusting, although the cable
linkage can stretch over a period of time and may need
adjustment. The adjuster is on top of the gearbox, reached
from inside the engine bay.
20C. 'Work' the clutch pedal
(X) a few times, pull back the
carpet from under the pedal,
then measure the full travel of
the pedal, which should be
between 140 and 150 mm.

/
\
/ \
/ u / Xl
1 ' ' / . V y 2
Jdi V 1 \
X. 1 —

20C
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
20B. Check the
pipework and slave
cylinder, on the
gearbox casing,
from beneath the
20D. If not, note that after
slackening the locknut, turning
the adjusting nut inwards
along the threaded rod
(arrowed) will increase pedal
travel. Tighten the lock-nut
against the inner nut after
adjustment.
• Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector cable.
It should only be possible to start the engine when the gear
selector is in the 'P' or 'N' position. Place it in each of the
other positions and try to start the car. If it starts, the fault
must be put right! Also check that, with the ignition off and
the selector lever in 'D' (Drive), 'L' (Low), 'R' (Reverse) or 'N'
(Neutral), the timed warning buzzer should sound. If it
doesn't, the selector cable adjustment may be faulty.
See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART B:
TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH, Job 8 for adjustment details.
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
See FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY on page 36
SAFETY FIRST!
• You may minimise the risk of shock when the engine is running by wearing thick rubber gloves and by NEVER
working on the system in damp weather or when standing on damp ground. Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before
carrying out any work on the ignition system.
• ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS INVOLVE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES! All manufacturers recommend that only trained
personnel should go near the high-tension circuit (coil, distributor and HT wiring) and it is ESSENTIAL that anyone
wearing a medical pacemaker device does not go near the ignition system.
• Stroboscopic timing requires the engine to be running
-
take great care that parts of the timing light or parts of
you don't get caught up in moving components!
• Don't have loose clothing or hair.
46
FACT FILE: CABLE OR HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH?
• Most earlier Tipos and Tempras had a
cable-operated clutch, while later ones
are hydraulic.
• 2 OA. You
can easily tell
which system
your car is
fitted with.
The hydraulic
pipe (if fitted)
runs almost
horizontally,
across the
back of the engine bay.
• There is no separate clutch fluid reservoir
-
it shares
the brake fluid reservoir.
• Clutch cables (when fitted) are inclined to break
without warning.
• It pays to keep the operating mechanism well lubri-
cated and renew the cable every few years.
car. If the pipe
appears cracked,
replace it. If the
slave cylinder
oozes fluid, replace
it, in both cases bleeding the system. See Chapter
6,
Repairs
and Replacements.

J Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs. Q Job 23. Change spark plugs.
GENERAL. On all Tipo and Tempra petrol engines the spark

plugs
face forwards, allowing easy working access.
Carefully remove the
spark plug caps, being
careful to pull only on

the cap and
not the HT
lead. If you can't be

sure
to remember which

HT lead
belongs to
which spark plug,
number them from one

end
of the engine to the
other.
22B. If the electrodes of the
plugs look rounded and worn,

replace
the plugs. See page

154
for details of 'Reading
Your Spark Plugs. Nip' the

cap
tight with pliers, so that it
can't come loose.
Spark plugs 'tire' and lose efficiency over a period of time,
even if they look okay. See Job 22 for information on their
removal and replacement. Use good quality Champion or FIAT
plugs of the correct specification.
• Job 24. Check/dean HT leads and distributor
cap.
See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of this section and
Chapter 1, Safety First!
IMPORTANT NOTE: On latest models, there is no conven-
tional distributor and, for those cars, none of the
following should be attempted. Illustration to Job 28C
illustrates the type which should NOT be worked on
except for wiping off the outer surface, with the engine
not running.
Remove each plug lead from the spark plugs, pulling only on
the plug caps, not on the HT cables. Also, remove the large HT
lead from the coil and take off the distributor cap, either by
popping off its spring retainers if the distributor is on the side
of the engine (front of engine bay
-
see illustration 25A) or by
undoing the two retaining screws.
24A. On later
cars (Digiplex
ignition -
distributor
mounted
horizontally on
end of cylinder
head) unclip and
remove the
22A. Unscrew the plug

using
the correct type of
spark plug socket. Take

care
to keep the
spanner strictly in line
with the plug so as not to
crack the electrode.

22C.
it
is
essential

that the
plug is

gapped
correctly.

See Chapter 3,
Facts
and Figures.

Use a
feeler blade

of the
correct
thickness, sliding it

between
the
electrodes. It should

be a firm
sliding fit.

Use a
gapping tool

or
carefully wielded pliers to bend the curved electrode

towards
or away from the centre electrode. Take GREAT CARE

not to
damage the insulator near the tip of the plug.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The spark plugs screw into
aluminium, which is easily damaged if the spark plugs do

not
engage their threads properly. Screw in the plugs by
hand initially
-
by, say, two or three turns
-
before using
the plug spanner. A light smear of copper grease on the

plug
threads will enable them to turn more freely and

also
make them easier to remove next time. Finally,
don't over-tighten the plugs
-
firm hand-pressure on the
spanner is sufficient. D
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT
spray water dispellant or
apply lubricant to any part
of an electronic ignition
distributor. (It's okay to
clean the cap, as described,
however.)
shroud. Clean the
cap and cables of
either type with a clean rag, applying a little aerosol water-
dispellant spray to help shift oil and grime.
24B. Check each of the HT posts (a) inside the cap for burning
or damage, and the central carbon brush (b) to ensure that it's
not worn down and that the
spring loading is okay. Clean
the dust cover (c) and rotor
arm, and check the tip (d) for
burning.

• Job 25. Check ignition timing.
_ FACT FILE: IGNITION SYSTEM TYPES
Two different types of electronic ignition
systems have been fitted to the petrol
engines covered by this manual.
The earlier Breakerless Inductive Discharge System can
be adjusted. Its distributor is fitted as shown in illus-
tration 25A.
The later, Digiplex 2 system, has an integrated ignition
and fuel injection control system and any checks and
adjustments will need to be carried out by your FIAT
dealership with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
See Job 28.
MAGNETI MARELLI BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
CHECK VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE SYSTEMS
25A. This is the
location of the break-
erless electronic
ignition components in
the car. The distributor
(1) is fitted to the front
of the block while the
ignition coil
(2)
is
alongside the battery.
25B. This type of distributor can be
identified by the electronic ignition
control module (a) and the vacuum
advance unit (b), not fitted to other
ignition types.
• the engine must be at
ature.
• the idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct

-
see Job 35.
• Start the engine and run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley timing mark
and ensure that the mark lines up with the 10 degrees Before
Top Dead Centre (BTDC) mark on the timing belt cover.
• If the reading is 'out' stop the engine and slacken the clamp
nut on the distributor so that the distributor can just be turned
with firm hand pressure.
• Turn the distributor a very small amount, restart the engine
and check again.
• Repeat the procedure until, with the engine running, the
crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the 10 degree
BTDC mark. Then tighten the nut securing the distributor to
the engine block.
You can now check the vacuum advance system as follows:
• increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm and,
with the timing light pointed at the timing marks, make a
mental note of the position of the mark on the crankshaft
pulley in relation to the timing belt cover. If the position is no
further advanced than 10 degrees BTDC, the mechanical
advance system inside the distributor is probably seized.
• stop the engine, reconnect the vacuum advance pipe and
repeat the procedure.
• you should see a further amount of advance taking place
and if not, the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance
mechanism is probably punctured.
• if either or both of these faults have occurred, your engine
will run uneconomical^ and inefficiently and it may pay you to
fit a new distributor.
MAGNETI MARELLI DIGIPLEX 2 ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
25D. This is the layout of the Digiplex ignition system, viewed
from over the engine looking towards the left-side of the car.
The ignition coil (1) is adjacent to the battery. The electronic
control unit (2) is nearer to the engine bay sidewall. The
distributor (3) is mounted on the end of the cylinder head and
the rpm and Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor (4) is located on
the crankshaft cover on the flywheel side.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before
checking the ignition timing,
you must be certain that:
• the pipe from the distributor
vacuum unit is disconnected
from the distributor and plugged.
its normal operating temper-
instructions. The
timing light should
always be connected
to No.
1
spark plug
lead
-
the one nearest
the timing belt end of
the engine.
48
25C. To check the ignition timing, connect up a stroboscopic
lamp, either as shown on the inset or in accordance with the
manufacturer's

FACT FILE: DIGIPLEX DISTRIBUTOR
REMOVAL
25E. If the distributor has to be removed
for any reason, it is ESSENTIAL that the
PRECISE position of the rotor arm in
relation to the distributor body and the
position of the distributor body (2) in relation to the
cylinder head
-
via the spacer (1)
-
are clearly marked so
that they can be
replaced in
EXACTLY the
same position.
Note that the
locator
(arrowed) only
gives an approx-
imate, not a
precisely correct
location of the
spacer.
25F. D INSIDE
INFORMATION:

Use
touch-up
paint
and
let it
dry before
removing the
unit. D
SETTING THE RPM AND TDC SENSOR POSITION
25G. This job can not
be carried out without
the FIAT special tool
illustrated. The sensor
is correctly positioned
when the engine is
produced and to
prevent accidental
tampering, one of the
two bolts holding the
sensor in place is a
shear bolt and will have to be renewed if removed.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The slots in the distributor body are
NOT used to alter the advance setting, as on a conven-
tional distributor. This operation is carried out by the
position of the TDC sensor
-
see later.
CHECKING THE IGNITION ADVANCE can be carried out in an
approximate manner using the same method as described in

25C.
However, you must make sure that the following steps

are
taken:
•
the
vacuum pipe between the electronic control unit and

the
inlet manifold must remain connected and be in good
condition
-
neither blocked nor split.
•
the
engine must be at its normal operating temperature.
•
the
idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct
-

see Job 35.
•
with
the engine idling at between 800 and 900 rpm, the

mark on
the crankshaft pulley should be at approximately 12
degrees BTDC.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The only marks are for 0, 4 and 10
degrees BTDC, so you will have to make a guess at the
correct position for 12 degrees.
FACT FILE: TIMING MARKS
y-; • It appears that some earlier engines
H. j may be fitted with different types of
J timing marks. There might be a metal
pointer fitted to the timing belt cover.
Other engines may have their timing marks in the
flywheel housing, so that you need to take out a rectan-
gular rubber bung and look out for the fixed timing
mark on the flywheel housing and the timing settings

on
the flywheel itself.
• It always helps to paint all of the timing marks with
white paint or typists' correction fluid so that they are
easier to see when the timing light is operating.
1. Line up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0
degrees (TDC) mark on the timing belt cover. See 25C.
2. Without moving the crankshaft from this position, undo the
screws holding the rpm and TDC sensor to the sensor carrier
plate. Fit the tool no. 1895898000 in place of the sensor.
Check that the flywheel pin or lug (3) must fit in the groove of
the tool and the bolts must tighten easily. If not, carry out the
following procedure:
3. Slacken the bolts securing the carrier plate behind the
sensor.
4. Move the plate so that the tool slips freely into the sensor's
hole and the bolts tighten easily.
5. Tighten the bolts holding the sensor carrier plate in place.
6. Remove the tool and refit the sensor.
ON BOTH TYPES: As the distributor is turned (clockwise to
advance, anti-clockwise to retard), the timing mark on the
flywheel will be seen to move relative to the pointers. Move
the distributor so the timing marks are aligned correctly, and
retighten the clamp nut or bolts.
• Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s.
26A. Depending on
your Tipo or Tempra
model, access to the
alternator belt and
adjustment fixings will
probably be possible
from the engine bay.
V-BELTS ONLY
Check the belt, and if there is any sign of cracking, 'polishing',
fraying or severe wear on the inner face, replace it. The belt
should deflect by about 10 mm when firm thumb pressure is
applied to the belt between the pulleys in the direction of the
arrow. Too little tension and the belt might slip; too much,
and belt and bearing wear will increase.

• Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter. IMPORTANT NOTES:
• Wear plastic gloves and goggles and have a large rag
and a suitable fire extinguisher ready.
• Place a container beneath the filter to catch fuel
spillage.
• After fitting the new filter in place, refit the casing,
ensure no traces of fuel are left, reconnect the battery and
restart the engine.
• Check carefully to ensure there are no leaks before
refitting the cover.
• Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Some models are fitted with a water-
in-fuel sensor. Drain the filter when the warning light
comes on. Unplug the sensor from the base of the filter,
first.
FUEL INJECTION
MODELS
32A. The filter is under the
car, ahead of the fuel tank.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION:
Remove the visible screws
holding the flexible
plastic cover in place.
You can now pull the
front down and out of
the way. E3
32B. Undo the clamp,
remove the outer
casing and renew the
special paper filter,
from your FIAT
dealership. There is
an arrow on the
casing to remind you
which way round it
must be fitted.
33. The fuel filter is
located in the rear of
the engine
compartment. Water
carried in the fuel
accumulates in the
bottom of the filter,
and should not be
allowed to build up.
To drain it position a receptacle under the filter, then unscrew
the knurled tap at the bottom of the filter by a couple of turns.
Do so at the recommended interval, or if the panel indicator
comes on. (See Chapter
2,
Getting to Know Your
Car.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Plastic fuel pipes become
brittle and snap. Extra care needed! E3
SAFETY FIRST!
• The high pressure pipework on a fuel injection
system can retain its pressure for days even after the
engine has been switched off.
• When you disconnect the pipework, a jet of fuel can
be emitted under very high pressure
-
strong enough
to penetrate the skin or damage the eyes.
• NEVER work on the fuel pipework when the engine
is running (except when bleeding Diesel injectors).
• ALWAYS place a rag over a union while it is being
undone until all the pressure has been let out of the
system.
• You are recommended to wear strong rubber gloves
and goggles when disconnecting the fuel injection
system's high pressure pipework. Always disconnect
VERY slowly, letting pressure out progressively.
• See Chapter 6, PART F: Job 8 for details of how to
depressurise the system.
• Disconnect the battery negative earth before
working on the fuel system.
• Work outdoors and away from sources of flame or
ignition.
• ALWAYS wear rubber gloves
-
don't let your
skin

come into contact with fuel.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All Tipo/Tempra diesel engines are
self-bleeding and there should be no need to bleed air
out of the system manually.
• Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter.
Drain the fuel filter. Unscrew the complete filter canister from
its head, in the same way that you would an engine oil filter.
First undip the sensor plug (if fitted) from the base of the unit.
^ 34A. If it is too tight to
^^ - unscrew by hand, use an oil
filter wrench on the lower,
flatted zone (C). Wipe the underside of the filter head,
fill the new filter
with fuel...
34B. ...lightly
lubricate its seal
with fuel, then
screw it onto the
filter head. Once it
is 'nipped up',
tighten it as far as
possible by hand,
without
'murdering' it
-
so
that you CAN
remove it next
time!

• Step 26:
Check that
nothing remains
attached to, or
obstructs the
cylinder head and
lift it clear of the
block. If stuck, it
is permissible to
tap the head
lightly with a soft mallet to free it. Never use a wedge
between the joint faces and remember that the head will not
slide off as it is located on dowels.
Job 3. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head and camshaft
housing - refitting.
• Carburettor cleaner
-
or
the purpose-made Loctite
'Chisel' aerosol spray,
available from your FIAT dealer, will help to remove
pieces of
stuck-on
gasket.
o
(
V.
o
o
o
o o o
o o e
• • • • •
0 0 O 0 o
Job
3-4

grease, place it on the block with (on FIAT gaskets) this
copper-ringed hole above the correct water passage. The
gasket only fits correctly one way round.
• Step 3:
Lower the
cylinder head into
position and
locate it on the
two dowels (see
illustration Job
3-2, arrowed).
Refer to the illustration to Job
2-1
in connection with the
work described here.
• Step 4: The
10 main cylinder
head securing
bolts and washers
can now be
screwed in by
hand. Don't fit
the smaller ones
(arrowed) yet.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: FIAT recommend that you
should not re-use cylinder head bolts which have been
refitted more than three times before. Fit new ones if in
doubt, so that you can ensure reliability. B
• Step 1: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and washers
and leave them to drain for AT LEAST 20 minutes before
fitting them.
• Step 5B:
Tighten the head
down to the first
torque setting,
following the
correct tightening
order.
Q Step 27: Remove the old gasket.
IMPORTANT NOTES: • Here, we show how to refit the
head and camshaft housing, separated. The head
complete with housing cannot be torqued down
correctly without the use of FIAT's special, cranked
spanner for use on the semi-hidden head bolts.
• The valve clearances will have to be re-set. See Job 7.
Clean the block and cylinder head mating surfaces with a
straight edge, taking particular care with the light alloy head.
Any gouging of the metal could prove very expensive to have
put right!
Make sure that all the holes and coolant passages are clear of
any foreign matter, particularly the cylinder head bolt holes
which must be clear right down to the bottom.
• Step 5C: In
the same order,
tighten the bolts
to their second
torque setting.
• Step 2: With
the block face
perfectly clean,
remove the
cylinder head
gasket from its
wrapping and,
keeping it away
from oil or
Tighten by another (second) 90 degrees, bolt-by-bolt, again in
the correct order.
• Step 5D:
Tighten each bolt,
once again in the
correct order, by
a further 90
degrees. You
could use an
angle gauge
(available from
auto-accessory
stores) in order to
be precise.
Q Step 5A: Tighten the 10 larger bolts in their correct
sequence as shown in illustration Job
3-4.
All of the settings
are shown in
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.