check transmission fluid FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

Please be sure to read the whole of this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
SAFETY FIRST!
You must always ensure that
safety is the first consideration
in any job you carry out. A
slight lack of concentration, or
a rush to finish the job quickly
can easily result in an accident,
as can failure to follow the
precautions outlined in
this manual.
Be sure to consult the
suppliers of any materials and
equipment you may use, and
to obtain and read carefully
any operating and health and
safety instructions that may
be available on packaging or
from manufacturers
and suppliers.
Raising the Car Safely
ALWAYS ensure that the vehicle is properly supported when
raised off the ground. Don't work on, around, or underneath
a raised vehicle unless axle stands are positioned under
secure, load bearing underbody areas, or the vehicle is driven
onto ramps, with the wheels remaining on the ground
securely chocked to prevent movement.
NEVER work on a vehicle supported on a jack. Jacks are made
for lifting the vehicle only, not for holding it off the ground
while it is being worked on.
ALWAYS ensure that the safe working load rating of any
jacks, hoists or lifting gear used is sufficient for the job, and
that lifting gear is used only as recommended by the
manufacturer.
NEVER attempt to loosen or tighten nuts that require a lot of
force to turn (e.g. a tight oil drain plug) with the vehicle
raised, unless it is safely supported. Take care not to pull the
vehicle off its supports when applying force to a spanner.
Wherever possible, initially slacken tight fastenings before
raising the car off the ground.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when working under the
vehicle and when using power tools.
Working On The Vehicle
ALWAYS seek specialist advice unless you are justifiably
confident about carrying out each job. The safety of your
vehicle affects you, your passengers and other road users.
DON'T lean over, or work on, a running engine unless it is
strictly necessary, and keep long hair and loose clothing well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Note that it is
theoretically possible for fluorescent striplighting to make an
engine fan appear to be stationary
-
double check whether it
is spinning or not! This is the sort of error that happens when
you're really tired and not thinking straight. So...
...DON'T work on your car when you're over tired.
ALWAYS work in a well ventilated area and don't inhale dust
- it may contain asbestos or other harmful substances.
NEVER run the engine indoors, in a confined space or over
a pit.
REMOVE your wrist watch, rings and all other jewellery before
doing any work on the vehicle
-
and especially when working
on the electrical system.
DON'T remove the radiator or expansion tank filler cap when
the cooling system is hot, or you may get scalded by escaping
coolant or steam. Let the system cool down first and even
then, if the engine is not completely cold, cover the cap with
a cloth and gradually release the pressure.
NEVER drain oil, coolant or automatic transmission fluid when
the engine is hot. Allow time for it to cool sufficiently to avoid
scalding you.
ALWAYS keep antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid away from
vehicle paintwork. Wash off any spills immediately.
TAKE CARE to avoid touching any engine or exhaust system
component unless it is cool enough not to burn you.

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

• Repeat this operation three more times until the
complete code number has been entered, if the code
has been entered in correctly LED B will start flashing.
• Release button A (see illustration
1B).
Red LED B
flashes for 8 seconds indicating the new remote unit's
code has been stored.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the LED does not illuminate
when remote unit button (illustration 1B, button
O is pressed, change the remote unit's battery.
• Insert the emergency key A into the emergency switch
slot in the glove compartment turn the key to the left to
switch the alarm off (see inset).
• Turn the key back towards its original position to
switch the alarm system back on.
IMPORTANT NOTE: As the alarm system absorbs
energy, if you are not planning on using the car
for a long period of time, turn the alarm exclusion
key to the off position, so as not to run the vehicle
battery down.
• 2. IGNITION SWITCH AND
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
IGNITION SWITCH
2. The ignition/steering column lock key, once inserted
in the ignition lock, can be placed in any of the
following four positions:
• PARK
-
With the key in this
position the side and tail lights
can be turned on, the steering
column locked and the keys
can be removed. Press button
A to turn the key to PARK.
• STOP
-
When the key is
turned to the STOP position the steering column will be
locked, and the keys can be removed.
• MAR
-
This is the driving position. When the key is in
this position all the electrical devices are energised.
• AW
-
Turning the key to this position starts the
engine.
STEERING COLUMN LOCK
• LOCKING
-
To apply the steering wheel lock turn the
steering wheel slightly to the left or right when the key is
at STOP or PARK.
• UNLOCKING
-
Rocking the steering wheel gently back
and forth while turning the ignition key to MAR unlocks
the steering wheel.
• 3. PANEL INDICATORS
INSTRUMENT DISPLAY PANEL
3. These are the instrument panel warning LED indicators
for all FIAT Tipo/Tempra models. Your vehicle will only
have Panel Indicators relevant to your particular car.
• 4. ELECTRONIC CHECK PANEL
4. The electronic check panel is not fitted to models
with basic trim.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The check panel will not
indicate if the tail light fuses blow at the same
time, or if there is a circuit failure within the panel
display.
SIDE AND HATCHBACK DOORS
When the ignition key is at MAR, the check panel LEDs
g, h, i, I, m and n monitor the light bulbs and fuses.
LEDs a, b, c, d, and e monitor incomplete closure of
the side doors and hatchback.
• Never remove the key when the car is moving.
If you do, the steering wheel will lock the first
time you turn it.
• If the ignition lock has been tampered with or
shows any sign of damage (e.g. attempted theft),
have the lock checked at your nearest FIAT
Service Centre.
M Choke Oil pressure warning
Direction indicators (®) Handbrake engaged
-X: Side lights m Rear window defroster
10 High beam head
lights '•y Injection system warning light
<1* Rear fog lights • Battery warning
A Hazard warning lights A Seat belts not
buckled
m ABS brake warning a Automatic transmission fluid warning
o Brake pad wear warning a Doors not properly closed
Turbo pressure warning Trailer direction indicators
10 Front fog lights a Diesel fuel filter condenstate warning
•515" Diesel heater/glow •515" plugs 3
SWITCHING OFF THE ALARM
1C. Some models
are fitted with an
alarm exclusion
switch, which can
be found inside
the glove
compartment. If
the alarm is faulty
or the remote control batteries are flat:

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

• Job 20. Check/adjust clutch. CABLE OPERATED CLUTCH
The clutch mechanism is self-adjusting, although the cable
linkage can stretch over a period of time and may need
adjustment. The adjuster is on top of the gearbox, reached
from inside the engine bay.
20C. 'Work' the clutch pedal
(X) a few times, pull back the
carpet from under the pedal,
then measure the full travel of
the pedal, which should be
between 140 and 150 mm.

/
\
/ \
/ u / Xl
1 ' ' / . V y 2
Jdi V 1 \
X. 1 —

20C
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
20B. Check the
pipework and slave
cylinder, on the
gearbox casing,
from beneath the
20D. If not, note that after
slackening the locknut, turning
the adjusting nut inwards
along the threaded rod
(arrowed) will increase pedal
travel. Tighten the lock-nut
against the inner nut after
adjustment.
• Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector cable.
It should only be possible to start the engine when the gear
selector is in the 'P' or 'N' position. Place it in each of the
other positions and try to start the car. If it starts, the fault
must be put right! Also check that, with the ignition off and
the selector lever in 'D' (Drive), 'L' (Low), 'R' (Reverse) or 'N'
(Neutral), the timed warning buzzer should sound. If it
doesn't, the selector cable adjustment may be faulty.
See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART B:
TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH, Job 8 for adjustment details.
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
See FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY on page 36
SAFETY FIRST!
• You may minimise the risk of shock when the engine is running by wearing thick rubber gloves and by NEVER
working on the system in damp weather or when standing on damp ground. Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before
carrying out any work on the ignition system.
• ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS INVOLVE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES! All manufacturers recommend that only trained
personnel should go near the high-tension circuit (coil, distributor and HT wiring) and it is ESSENTIAL that anyone
wearing a medical pacemaker device does not go near the ignition system.
• Stroboscopic timing requires the engine to be running
-
take great care that parts of the timing light or parts of
you don't get caught up in moving components!
• Don't have loose clothing or hair.
46
FACT FILE: CABLE OR HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH?
• Most earlier Tipos and Tempras had a
cable-operated clutch, while later ones
are hydraulic.
• 2 OA. You
can easily tell
which system
your car is
fitted with.
The hydraulic
pipe (if fitted)
runs almost
horizontally,
across the
back of the engine bay.
• There is no separate clutch fluid reservoir
-
it shares
the brake fluid reservoir.
• Clutch cables (when fitted) are inclined to break
without warning.
• It pays to keep the operating mechanism well lubri-
cated and renew the cable every few years.
car. If the pipe
appears cracked,
replace it. If the
slave cylinder
oozes fluid, replace
it, in both cases bleeding the system. See Chapter
6,
Repairs
and Replacements.

Q Step 23: Undo the mounting bolts, making sure the
power unit is supported safely as you take the last bolts out.
• Step 24: Lower the power unit to the ground and pull
clear.
Job 9. Petrol engine/transmission
- refitting.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! The power unit can be refitted
by simply reversing the order of the operations for
removal as set out in the previous job. However, the
following points should receive your attention as the
work progresses. H
• Step 1: Refer to Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for the
torque settings when refitting the various components.
• Step 2: If you don't have the FIAT too! (arrowed) to fit
the special Oetiker bands on the drive-shaft boots, use
woodworker's pincers, or fit new jubilee clips and screw them
reasonably tight.
• Step 3: Check the condition of all hoses and clips and
replace them if suspect.
• Step 4: Make sure all the electrical connections are
correctly made and are sound.
Q Step 5: Make sure the engine and gearbox have the
correct grades and quantities of oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts
and

Figures.
Q Step 6: Check that the cooling system has the correct
coolant mixture. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
• Step 7: Make a final check that nothing has been left un-
connected before starting up.
• Step 8: Run the engine up to working temperature and
then switch off. Check for leaks and re-check the fluid levels
when cold.

Q Step 2: Before starting the engine, make sure all your
electrical connections are sound and your fuel, oil and coolant
connections are correct and secure.
Q Step 3: Run the engine to working temperature and then
allow to cool. Re-check all fluid levels.
Job 20. Diesel engine.
Mountings - replacement.

See
Job
12
and Job
18,
Step 20
Job 21. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Q Step 1: Remove the starter motor.
• Step 2: On the turbo version, undo the flange bolts see
Job
18,
Step 16A and withdraw the drive-shaft extension, if

still
fitted.
Q Step 3: Unbolt and remove the rear engine plate and the
gearbox, being careful to support the gearbox weight as it is
withdrawn.
Job 22. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
Q Step 1: Before proceeding, check the condition of the

clutch and
its release mechanism. Make sure the driven plate

is
properly centred on the flywheel
-
see PART B: TRANS-
MISSION.
Q Step 2: Now reverse the order of separation, but be

careful when
engaging the gearbox input shaft with the

clutch
driven plate that you don't 'hang' its weight on the

splines.
Also,
see
Job 11.
Job 23. Diesel engine -
dismantling.

This Job should
be read in conjunction with Job 5 The

engines are
broadly similar although the information given in

this Job takes
priority for diesel engines. It is MOST
IMPORTANT that you read the FACT FILE on page 84.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
The inside
of diesel engines are particularly filthy
places!
•
Old diesel
oil
is
carcinogenic!
•
Wear suitable
impervious gloves!
I
• Step 1: Remove the timing belt and cylinder head. See
Jobs
13
and 14.
Q Step 2: Remove the alternator, water pump and
thermostat housing distribution pipe.
• Step 3: Remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Note that the bolt securing
the crankshaft sprocket has a left-hand thread and must
be undone clockwise. D
• Step 4: Unbolt the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys.
• Step 5: Remove the injection pump sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! You will need two FIAT tools
for this operation. One (No. 1860473000) is to prevent
the sprocket from turning when undoing the nut, and
the other (extractor No. 1842128000) to pull the sprocket
from the injection pump shaft. Alternatively it may be
possible to improvise a means of preventing sprocket
rotation, and a suitable three-leg puller may be carefully
used to withdraw the sprocket. Take care not to lose the
pump shaft Woodruff key. B
• Step 6:
Unbolt and
detach the
support bracket
(a) from the rear
of the injection
pump (b). Unbolt
the pump flange
and bracket
nuts, and
remove the
pump and its
front bracket (c).
• Step 7: Remove and discard the old oil filter.
Step 8: Remove the crankcase breather, the low-oil-
pressure switch and the oil pressure gauge sensor from the
front face of the engine.
• Step 9: Turn the engine upside down and remove the
flywheel and the sump.

Job 8. Automatic gear selector
control cable - replacement.
• Step 4:
Release the
outer cable
centring bush
from its
housing in the
gearbox.
• Step 5: H INSIDE INFORMATION! To
do this, you will have to make a simple
tool as shown here. There is no FIAT
'special tool'
-
each dealer has to make
this one himself! Use the tool to push
lightly upwards, so that the cable
centring bush (illustration Job
6-4

arrowed) comes out of its seat. B
• Step 6: Fit the new cable in the reverse
order. Use a new gasket when refitting the
sump.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Readjust the cables if
necessary. See Jobs 7 and 8.
Q Step 7: Refill the transmission with
automatic transmission fluid. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - adjustment.
Refer to the illustrations in Job 6.
Q Step 1: Check that the slow running speed is correct and
the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted, with just a small
amount of slack.
Q Step 2: Disconnect the kickdown cable from the idler
pulley and ensure that it is perfectly free in its operation.
• Step 3: With the selector lever in 'P', start the engine and
let it idle.
Q Step 4: Pull the inner cable by hand until resistance is felt,
caused by the compression of the valves. The cable end should
now line up with its locating slot in the idler pulley
-
if not,
adjust nuts (7) and (8).
[_l Step 5: Reconnect the cable and then switch off the
engine.
• Step 6: Check that when the accelerator pedal is hard
down, there is
1
mm of further movement left on the
kickdown cable, otherwise, make further adjustments on nuts
(7) and (8).
Refer to illustration Job 6, Step 3.
• Step 1: Raise the car and support it securely on axle stands.
• Step 2: Remove the cover from the gear selection
mechanism and familiarise yourself with the drawing referred
to here.
Q Step 3: Manually select the 'P' (park) position, using the
lever beneath the gearchange (see illustration Job
6-3,
part
6).

• Step 4: Disconnect the cable from the selector eyelet (3)
and detach from the slot in the front end of the bracket (5).
Q Step 5: Disconnect the inner cable from the gearlever (6)
and release the outer casing from its gearbox mounted
bracket (7). Remove the cable.
Q Step 6: Ensure that 'P' (park) is still engaged by moving
the gearlever (6
-
beneath the car) fully rearward.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When 'Park' is properly engaged you
will not be able to turn both front wheels in the same
direction at the same time. This is because the trans-
mission should be 'locked' when 'park' is engaged.
• Step 7: Connect the new cable at the bracket (7) and
then at the bottom of the gear lever (6).
• Step 8: Feed the other end of the cable through to the
inside of the car and fix the outer casing into the slot in
bracket (5).
• Step 9: Put the interior selector lever (2) in the 'P' (park)
position and with the inner cable taut, check that the eyelet
(3) aligns perfectly with the selector pin.
• Step 10: If necessary, slacken the adjustment nut (4) and
adjust the position of the eyelet (3) accordingly. Fit the eyelet
to the pin and tighten the nut (4).
• Step 11: Check that the gears engage in their correct
positions on the selector indicator.
T "I FACT FILE: CHECKING AUTOT
qp- TRANSMISSION SELECTION
EL
-
• Now that you have completed the
installation, and BEFORE USING THE
VEHICLE ON THE ROAD, carry out the
following check:
• The engine should only start when you have selected
either 'P' (park), or 'N' (neutral).
• The gear lever selector positions should agree with
those indicated on the display panel.
• When 'R' (reverse) is selected, the reverse light
should come on. With the ignition switched off, the
buzzer should sound if any position other than 'P'
(park) is selected.
Q Step 12: Refit the selection mechanism cover.
0
Job 6-5

gjpjgjjl 'READING' YOUR SPARK PLUGS
Champion explain how the condition of spark plug firing ends can act as a guide to the state of tune and general condition of the engine. The examples shown are assumed to be the correct grade for the engine.
NORMAL
Core nose lightly coated with grey-brown deposits. Electrodes not burning unduly
-
gap increasing by about 0.01 mm every 1,000 miles approximately (with the use of unleaded fuel). Spark plugs correct for engine.
OIL FOULING
Deposits can short-circuit firing end, weakening or eliminating spark. Causes: worn valve guides, bores or piston rings, or while new engine is running-in. Replace spark plugs. Cure oiling problem.
SPLIT CORE NOSE
(May first appear as hair-line-crack). Probably caused by: Over-advanced ignition timing. Faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Manifold air-leaks. Cooling system problems. Incorrect gap-setting technique.
HEAVY DEPOSITS
Possible causes: Fuel or oil additives. Excessive upper cylinder lubricant. Worn valve guides. Unvarying speed (stationary engine). Replace spark plugs.
OVERHEATING
Likely causes are: Over-advanced ignition timing, or faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Discard spark plugs showing signs of overheating, and cure the cause.
CARBON FOULING
Look for dull black sooty deposits. (Unleaded fuel carbon fouling can appear similar to oil fouling). Deposits can short circuit the firing end, weakening or eliminating the spark. Check for: Over-rich mixture, faulty choke or clogged air filter. Replace spark plugs.
INITIAL PRE-IGNITION
Caused by serious overheating. Causes are those listed for overheating, but may be more severe. Corrective measures are urgently needed before engine damage occurs. Discard plugs in this condition.
FACT FILE: CORRECT INSTALLATION
• Make sure seating areas are perfectly clean.
• Insert plug finger tight to seat. Ensure plug 'spins' freely.
• PLUGS WITH SEATING GASKET: Tighten to relevant torque setting.
• PLUGS WITH TAPER SEATS: Tighten a further l/16th turn ONLY - no further!
• Overtightening can damage cylinder head or make taper seat plugs impossible to remove.
RECOMMENDED FL LUBRICANTS
FOR YOUR FIAT TIPO ARID TEMPRA
COMPONENT/ TIPO & TEMPRA TIPO SELECTA & TEMPRA SELECTA TIPO & TEMPRA DIESEL CAPACITY 1.4 and 1.6 1.6 and 1.6 i.e. 1.7 D, 1.9 Dand 1.9 TD
ENGINE SELENIA 20K SELENIA 20K SELENIA TURBO DIESEL CAPACITY 3.8 L 3.8 L/4.2 L 5.0 L
MANUAL TRANSMISSION TUTELA ZC80/S -TUTELA ZC80/S CAPACITY 2.0 L -2.0 L
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION -TUTELA CVT -CAPACITY -3.5 L (a) -
DIFFERENTIAL(S) FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX CAPACITY ---
STEERING BOX TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 CAPACITY 80 g (b) 80 g (b) 80 g (b)
CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINTS TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 CAPACITY 95 g (each) 95 g (each) 95 g (each)
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 CAPACITY (NON-ABS) 0.40
L
(c) 0.40 L (c) 0.40
L
(c)
COOLANT PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 CAPACITY 6.5 L(d) 6.5 L(d) 8.8
L
(d)
WINDSCREEN WASHER TANK AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 CAPACITY 5.0 L 5.0 L 5.0 L
NOTES: (a) DRAIN/REFILL CAPACITY (b) IF MODEL FITTED WITH POWER ASSISTED STEERING USE 0.75 L TUTELA Gl/A (c) IF ABS BRAKING IS FITTED USE 0.52 L TUTELA TOP 4 (d) COOLING SYSTEM AT A CONCENTRATION OF 50% COOLANT TO 50% WATER
CHANGE PERIODS: See Chapter 5, Service Intervals
154