weight FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

Running The Vehicle
NEVER start the engine unless the gearbox is in neutral (or
'Park' in the case of automatic transmission) and the hand
brake is fully applied.
NEVER run catalytic converter equipped vehicles without the
exhaust system heat shields in place.
TAKE CARE when parking vehicles fitted with catalytic
converters. The 'cat' reaches extremely high temperatures and
any combustible materials under the car, such as long dry
grass, could be ignited.
Personal Safety
NEVER siphon fuel, antifreeze, brake fluid or other such toxic
liquids by mouth, or allow contact with your skin. Use a
suitable hand pump and wear gloves.
BEFORE undertaking dirty jobs, use a barrier cream on your
hands as a protection against infection. Preferably, wear
suitable gloves, available from DIY outlets.
WEAR IMPERVIOUS GLOVES for sure when there is a risk of
used engine oil coming into contact with your skin. It can
cause cancer.
WIPE UP any spilt oil, grease or water off the floor
immediately.
MAKE SURE that spanners and all other tools are the right size
for the job and are not likely to slip. Never try to 'double-up'
spanners to gain more leverage.
SEEK HELP if you need to lift something heavy which may be
beyond your capability. Don't forget that when lifting a heavy
weight, you should keep your back straight and bend your
knees to avoid injuring your back.
NEVER take risky short-cuts or rush to finish a job. Plan ahead
and allow plenty of time.
BE METICULOUS and keep the work area tidy
-
you'll avoid
frustration, work better and lose less.
KEEP children and animals right-away from the work area and
from unattended vehicles.
ALWAYS tell someone what you're doing and have them
regularly check that all is well, especially when working alone
on, or under, the vehicle.
Fire!
Petrol (gasoline) is a dangerous and highly flammable liquid
requiring special precautions. When working on the fuel
system, disconnect the vehicle battery earth (ground) terminal
whenever possible and always work outside, or in a very well
ventilated area. Any form of spark, such as that caused by an
electrical fault, by two metal surfaces striking against each
other, by a central heating boiler in the garage 'firing up', or
even by static electricity built up in your clothing can, in a
confined space, ignite petrol vapour causing an explosion.
Take great care not to spill petrol on to the engine or exhaust
system, never allow any naked flame anywhere near the work
area and, above all, don't smoke.
Invest in a workshop-sized fire extinguisher. Choose the
carbon dioxide type or preferably, dry powder but NEVER a
water type extinguisher for workshop use.
DON'T disconnect any fuel pipes on a fuel injected engine
without following the advice in this manual. The fuel in the
line is under very high pressure
-
sufficient to cause serious
injury. Remember that many injection systems have residual
pressure in the pipes for days after switching off. If necessary
seek specialist advice.
Fumes
Petrol (gasoline) vapour and that given off by many solvents,
thinners, and adhesives are highly toxic and under certain
conditions can lead to unconsciousness or even death, if
inhaled. The risks are increased if such fluids are used in a
confined space so always ensure adequate ventilation. Always
read the maker's instructions and follow them with care.
Never drain petrol (gasoline) or use solvents, thinners
adhesives or other toxic substances in an inspection pit. It is
also dangerous to park a vehicle for any length of time over
an inspection pit. The fumes from even a slight fuel leak can
cause an explosion when the engine is started.
v ,,, Oil;::;s

Weights and Dimensions. All weights in kg. All sizes in mm.
All figures are given for 1993 model-year. Other years may vary.
ALL TIPO AND TEMPRA MODELS: Maximum roof load
-
80 kg (all models). Maximum weight on towball, when fitted - 75 kg.
VEHICLE
TIPO MODELS
1.4
1.6 manual
1.6 auto.
1.9 Turbo D
1.7 Diesel
UNLADEN WEIGHT
1030
1050
1080
1160
1060
MAXIMUM
LADEN WEIGHT
1530
1550
1580
1660
1560
TOWABLE LIMITS WITHOUT WITH BRAKES BRAKES
400
400
400
400
400
1100
1100
1100
1200
1100
OVERALL LENGTH
3958
OVERALL WHEEL FRONT WIDTH* BASE TRACK * not including mirrors
1700
All models:
2540 1436
REAR TRACK
1415
HEIGHT (unladen)
1445
TEMPRA MODELS
1.4 Saloon 1075 1575 400 1100
1.6 Saloon 1080 1580 400 1200 Saloons:
1.6 Auto Saloon 1120 1620 400 1100 4354 1695 2540 1425 1415 1445
1.9 D Saloon 1170 1670 400 1200
1.9 TD Saloon 1210 1710 450 1300
1.6 Station Wagon 1140 1705 400 1200
1.6 Auto Station Station Wagons:
Wagon 1180 1750 400 1100 4472 1695 2450 1425 1415 1500*
1.9 D Station (* roof bars - add 40 mm)
Wagon 1230 1800 450 1300
1.9 TD Station
Wagon 1270 1840 450 1300
PART C: CAPACITIES
See RECOMMENDED EL LUBRICANTS on page 154.
PART D: SERVICE DATA
All setting in mm. unless stated otherwise.
Engine
FIRING ORDER: All petrol models 1-3-4-2
INJECTION ORDER: All diesel models 1-3-4-2
IGNITION TIMING in degrees Before Top Dead Centre
-
BTDC:
850 rpm: 1372cc-8to 12 degrees. 1580/1581cc- 10 to 14
degrees.
CO CONTENT AT IDLE (MAX): Petrol only
-
0.5 to 1.5%
Exhaust VALVE CLEARANCES (mm) Inlet
(Checked when engine cold)
Petrol engines
Diesel engines
Other settings
0.4
+/-
0.05
0.3
+/-
0.05
0.5
+/-
0.05
0.35
+/-
0.05
SPARK PLUG TYPES AND GAPS
Model FIAT
1372cc V4LSR

1580/1581
cc V45LSR
Champion Gap (mm)
RN9YC
RN7YC
IDLE SPEED:
Petrol: 800 to 850 rpm
Turbo Diesel: 880 to 920 rpm
Non-turbo Diesel: 740 to 780 rpm
0.7 to 0.8
0.7 to 0.8
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT: No pedal free-travel. Adjustable pedal
height (see Chapter 5, Job 20).
BRAKE DISC PAD MINIMUM THICKNESS: Front (all models)
and Rear (models with ABS)
-
Brake pad wear warning light on
dash, but also check visually
-
minimum 1.5.
BRAKE SHOE FRICTION LINING MINIMUM THICKNESS: Rear
(when applicable)
-
minimum 1.5.
TYRE PRESSURES: See page 18

Screw with broad flange retaining rear flexible block to body (M12 x 1.25)..
Nut for stud retaining rear swinging arm to subframe (M16 x 1.5)
Nut for screw retaining lower damper to suspension (M12 x 1.25)
Screw retaining top of damper to mount (M10 x 1.25)
Nut for pivot pin retaining rear hub (M22 x 1.5)
Bolt retaining stabilizer bar to rear suspension arm (M10 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining stabilizer bar support plate to rear suspension arm (M8)
Wheel stud (M12 x 1.25)
Nut with self-locking flange retaining headlight alignment corrector
receiver to rear suspension (M8)
Nut with self-locking flange retaining lower receiver rod pin (M6)
Bolt with normal notched flange retaining automatic headlight
alignment device mount (M8)
Bolt with normal notched flange retaining receiver connection bracket with
rear suspension wishbone (M6)
Nut for bolt retaining square lever to wishbone (M8)
A B c D E Torque (Nm)
• • • • • 108
• • • • • 150
• • • • • 88
• • • • • 60
• • • • • 280
• • • • • 56
• • • • • 28
• • • • • 86
• • • • • 6.4
• • • • • 3.9
• • • • • 12
• • • • • 3.9
• • • • • 15
PART G: IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS
Finding the Numbers
G1: There are four sets of identification numbers in all. First,
there is the Vehicle Identification (V.I.N.) Number, or chassis
number (a). Second, is the engine number. Position (b) is the
engine number position on all engines; the engine illustrated

is
the 1.4 and 1.6 petrol engine. Also, see G4 and G5.
Third, there is the Model and Data Plate (c). See G3.
G2: Fourth, you will
need the Paint
Identification Plate
if you need to buy
paint. You'll find it
on the inside of the
hatchback door.
The numbers
shown on the plate
give the following
information: 1 -
Paint manufacturer; 2
-
Colour name; 3
-
Colour code;
4
-
Respray and touch-up code.
Vehicle Identification Numbers
See illustration G1, part a. There are two groups of codes
which are unique to your car. You should never buy a car
without checking first that the V.I.N, shown on the car matches
that on the vehicle registration document. The vehicle code is
also shown at position c on the Model and Data Plate and the
chassis serial number is also shown at position a.
Model and Data Plate
G3: The numbers
stamped on the
plate stand for the
following:
A
-
Manufacturer;
B
-
Homologation
number; C
-
Vehicle
identity code;
D
-
Chassis serial
number;
E
-
Maximum
authorised weight of vehicle, fully laden; F
-
Maximum autho-
rised weight of vehicle, fully laden plus trailer; G
-
Maximum
authorised weight on front axle; H
-
Maximum authorised
weight on rear axle; I
-
Engine type; L
-
Body code (see below);
M - Number for buying spares; N
-
Smoke opacity index
(diesel engines only).
Engine
Numbers
G4: On all petrol engines,
the number is on the top
of the crankcase at the
gearbox end.
G5: On diesel engines, look
on the crankcase, above the
water pump housing.
1
2
3
4
G2
r
B
r
B I B I
r
B
C I D I
r
B
I E I Kn
o o I F I Kq o o 1- I <3 I Kq o o
2- | H I Kq
o

MOTORE ENGINE
I I
N VERSIONE-VERSION •f
PER RICAM8:
N*
FOR SPARED

L I
1 G3

REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS • Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness.
Look for signs of leaks coming from underneath the top part
of
each
rear shock absorber and replace if necessary. Check

the
top and bottom rubber mounting bushes. If any are soft

or
split they must be replaced. Check that the bump stops are
present and correct.
BOUNCE TEST: Bounce-test the shock absorbers as in Job 43.
PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
SAFETY FIRST!
• Job 49. Check front brakes.

You can
check the thickness of the brake pads by looking

through
the 'window' in the caliper. However, this isn't

recommended
unless you are experienced and know what you

are looking for,
and you can't check the caliper or clean out

accumulated
brake dust.
• Before raising the car, see Chapter 1, Safety First!
•
Also,
be sure to read the section on BRAKES AND
ASBESTOS in Chapter 1, Safety First! for further

important
information.
•
Your car's
brakes are its most important
safety-
related items.
Do NOT attempt any work on the

braking system unless
you are fully competent to do so.
• If you have not been trained in this work, but wish
to
carry
it out, we strongly recommend you have a

garage
or qualified mechanic check your work before

using
the car on the road.
•
Always
start by washing the brakes with a propri-

etary
brand of brake cleaner
-
brake drums removed

where
appropriate
-
and never use compressed air to

clean
off
brake
dust.
•
Always
replace brake pads and/or shoes in complete

'axle' sets
of four
-
never replace them on one wheel
only.
• After fitting new brake shoes or pads, avoid heavy

braking
for the first
150
to 200 miles (250 to 300 km),

except
in
an emergency.
49B. This
drawing
illustrates the
various
components of
the front brake
assembly.
49C. Remove the
bottom caliper bolt,
using an open-ended
spanner to allow the
bolt to turn. ALWAYS
refit with NEW FIAT
caliper mounting bolts

-
they are a special
type.

Therefore,
checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads

involves
the same amount of work as changing them. For that

reason, brake
pad replacement is covered here in detail rather

than in
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

49A. Start by raising

the
wheel to
be

worked on and
supporting it on
an

axle stand. Remove
the road wheel
-
see

Chapter
1, Safety
First!
Compare the thickness of the two pads
-
there should be no
significant difference. The minimum recommended thickness
of lining material is 1.5 mm, but bearing in mind the amount
of time before the next service, you may wish to replace the
pads before they get to this stage.
You can now check the thickness of the brake disc, which
should not be below the figure given for your model in
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures, at any point.
Remove each wheel
bolt in turn and
ensure that they run
smoothly. Clean the
threads, if necessary.
Refit and check that all
are tightened to the
correct torque
-
see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures
-
using a torque wrench.
49D. Slacken the top
bolt, swivel the caliper
up and the pads come
free, for checking.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you remove the
top caliper bolt, DO NOT allow the weight of the caliper
to hang from the flexible hose
-
position it to rest on the
driveshaft, or support it from the road spring using a
length of wire.

• Step 16: Unbolt

the
lower suspension

arms
(arrowed)...
• Step 17:

...remove
the

drive
shaft

assemblies
from
their housings in

the
gearbox...
• Step 15: Undo

and
remove the
suspension strut to

stub axle
nuts and

bolts
(arrowed
-
two

each side).
Pull the

tops
of the stub axles

clear
of the struts.
• Step 12:
Disconnect both
trackrod ends from

their
steering arms.
• Step 13:

Remove
the fixing

bands
(arrowed) on

the
protective boots

on the
inner ends of

the
drive-shafts.
• Step 14: Unplug

the brake
pad wear

sensors
(a) if fitted.
Unbolt (see arrows)

the
complete caliper
support bracket.

Hang
each caliper

and
bracket in their
wheelarches, taking

care
not to strain or

damage
the hydraulic
hoses.
• Step 21:
Remove the nuts (1)
holding the centre
support to the
gearbox, and those
(2) holding the
flywheel shield.
• Step 22:
Remove the centre
support/mounting (a)
and the flywheel
shield (b).
• Step 18: and
remove each
complete front hub,
drive-shaft and brake
disc assembly.
Job 8-18
Q Step 20: Support the power unit, just keeping its weight
off the mountings.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! This can be done from under-
neath with a trolley jack and piece of wood on its pad to
prevent damage
-
or by means of a hook from above. B
• Step 19:
Disconnect the gear
selector linkage and
place it out of the
way, in the lower
part of the engine
compartment.
Job 8-19
Job 8-13
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org
I

Job 10. Petrol engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Job 11. Petrol engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
• Clean the whole unit
with a proprietary
degreaser
-
and dry off

before
starting work.
•
This
makes these heavy components easier and safer
to
handle
and greatly reduces the risk of contami-

nation
when you strip them down.
Job 10-1
Q Step 1: Undo and remove the transmission mounting

bracket (b),
the starter motor (d) and unbolt and remove the

pressed
steel cover plate (a) from the lower face of the
flywheel housing. Undo the flywheel housing connecting bolts

and note
the position of the engine and transmission
mounting brackets and lifting eyes. The engine mounting arm

can be
left in place but the mounting itself (c) can now be
removed, if required.
Q Step 2: Support the weight of the transmission so that it
doesn't 'hang' on the clutch and withdraw it from the engine

in a
straight line.
Refer to Job
10
for the location of components referred to
here.
• Step 1: Offer the transmission to the engine. The input
shaft should slide easily through the splined hub of the driven
plate, provided that it is still centralised. See PART B:
TRANSMISSION Re-centre the clutch if necessary.
r ' «the input shaft and
- hub splines are not aligned,
ask a helper to turn the
crankshaft pulley nut while you apply gentle pressure
to bring the two units together.
• Step 2: Once the input shaft is properly engaged, use
two bolts, tightened evenly, to draw the units together.
DON'T force it! If the units don't come together easily,
separate them, check clutch centring and try again. Fit the
remaining bolts, not forgetting the lifting eyes and brackets.
• Step 3: Refit the flywheel housing cover plate and
mounting bracket.
Q Step 4: Refit the starter motor.
Job 12. Petrol engine.
Mountings - replacement.
See Job 8, Steps 21 to 23 for details of engine and trans-
mission mounting positions.
Change one mounting at
time.
• The others will help you
keep the power unit correctly positioned.
• Step 1: Support the weight of the power unit with a jack
until there is no upward or downward pressure on the
mounting to be changed.
Q Step 2: Undo the securing bolts and fit the new
mounting. Remove the supporting jack.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! If you unbolt the whole of
the rear mounting bracket, be sure to replace the two
bolts which go into the gearbox casing to prevent oil
leakage. D

PART A
-
ENGINES PRIOR TO ENGINE NO. 1723291 • Step A15: Ease the timing belt off the sprockets.
Gl Step A10: Use a spanner on the crankshaft bolt (a) to
turn the engine until the timing marks on the crankshaft,
camshaft and injection pump sprockets align with their
respective reference marks. Align the crankshaft sprocket with
the notch on the front cover (b). Align the camshaft sprocket
with the hole in the timing belt cover (c). Align the injection
pump sprocket with the reference on the timing belt rear
guard (d).
• Step A11: Use
the FIAT flywheel
lock, part no.
1860766000 (or
construct your own
tool) to stop the
crankshaft from
turning.
• Step A12:
Remove the
alternator belt
pulley/damper.
• Step A13:
Using FIAT tool no.
1842128000 (see illustration Job
13-A10,
parte), lock the
injection pump sprocket to prevent it turning.
• Step A14: Slacken the belt tensioner nut (see illustration
Job
13-A10,
part f), move the tensioner away from the belt
and temporarily lock it in position.
• Step A16: Fit the new belt, first making sure that all of
the timing marks still align.
• Step A17: If you do not have access to the correct FIAT
tensioning tool, release the locknut, push the tensioner firmly
into the belt and lock it up by tightening its bolt.
If you do have the FIAT special tool (a weighted bar), attach it
to the tensioner, which will move to the position of correct
tension. Lock the tensioner bolt. Remove the special tool
locking the injection pump sprocket.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: If you can't put enough
pressure on the tensioner with your fingers, carefully use
a long screwdriver as a lever. Alternatively, push a pair of
bolts into the two holes in the tensioner and lever
between them to turn the tensioner. E9
Q Step A18: Rotate the engine through two revolutions. If
the belt is correctly tensioned you should just be able to twist
it through a quarter-turn when gripping it between thumb
and finger in the centre of its longest run between sprockets.
Adjust as necessary.
Q Step A19: Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order,
then check the injection timing (see Chapter
5,
Servicing
Your Car, Job
39)

PART B
-
ENGINES FROM ENGINE NO. 1723291-ON
Job 13-B10
Q Step B10: Turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of
rotation until the marks on the crankshaft sprocket (a) and
fuel injection pump sprocket (b) line up with the fixed marks
on the engine. This will place cylinder No. 1 at Top Dead
Centre TDC and set the camshaft for the power stroke of the
same cylinder. Lock the flywheel (see Step A11) and remove
the alternator belt pulley (see Step A12).
IMPORTANT NOTE: The hole for fixing the camshaft
sprocket (c) has a fine-adjustment slot, so it is possible
that the mark on the sprocket may not line up exactly
with the mark on the cover.

Job 19. Diesel engine - refitting.
• Step 18: Remove the brackets and plate (arrowed).
Q Step 19: Remove the electric radiator cooling fan.
• Step 1: Follow the instructions for removal in reverse
order, referring to Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for torque
settings and adjustments, lubricant and coolant types and
capacities.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Where the drive-shafts have been
withdrawn from the hubs, new nuts must be used and
staked into their grooves after tightening to the correct
torque.
• Step 16B: D INSIDE INFORMATION!
On the non-turbo version, it is necessary
to undo the drive-shaft-to-hub nuts. These
are very tight and you will require plenty
of leverage while a helper applies the
footbrake very firmly to prevent hub
rotation. Separate the hubs and
suspension struts by removing the pinch
bolts and pulling the hubs clear. Push the
drive-shafts out of the hubs
-
leaving
them fixed at the inboard ends. E3
• Step 17:
Disconnect the
three gearchange
control rods from
the gearbox
brackets.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! For separation and
reconnection of the engine/transmission, see Jobs
21

and 22 Q
• Step 20: Support the power unit (by means of a hook
from above, or from underneath with a trolley jack and a
protective piece of wood on its pad), and raise it just enough
to take the weight off the mountings. Undo the fixing bolts
(arrowed) and remove the mountings.
• Step 21:
Lower the
power unit to
the ground,
preferably onto
a trolley, and
retrieve from
under the car.
Job 18-16B

Q Step 2: Before starting the engine, make sure all your
electrical connections are sound and your fuel, oil and coolant
connections are correct and secure.
Q Step 3: Run the engine to working temperature and then
allow to cool. Re-check all fluid levels.
Job 20. Diesel engine.
Mountings - replacement.

See
Job
12
and Job
18,
Step 20
Job 21. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Q Step 1: Remove the starter motor.
• Step 2: On the turbo version, undo the flange bolts see
Job
18,
Step 16A and withdraw the drive-shaft extension, if

still
fitted.
Q Step 3: Unbolt and remove the rear engine plate and the
gearbox, being careful to support the gearbox weight as it is
withdrawn.
Job 22. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
Q Step 1: Before proceeding, check the condition of the

clutch and
its release mechanism. Make sure the driven plate

is
properly centred on the flywheel
-
see PART B: TRANS-
MISSION.
Q Step 2: Now reverse the order of separation, but be

careful when
engaging the gearbox input shaft with the

clutch
driven plate that you don't 'hang' its weight on the

splines.
Also,
see
Job 11.
Job 23. Diesel engine -
dismantling.

This Job should
be read in conjunction with Job 5 The

engines are
broadly similar although the information given in

this Job takes
priority for diesel engines. It is MOST
IMPORTANT that you read the FACT FILE on page 84.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
The inside
of diesel engines are particularly filthy
places!
•
Old diesel
oil
is
carcinogenic!
•
Wear suitable
impervious gloves!
I
• Step 1: Remove the timing belt and cylinder head. See
Jobs
13
and 14.
Q Step 2: Remove the alternator, water pump and
thermostat housing distribution pipe.
• Step 3: Remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Note that the bolt securing
the crankshaft sprocket has a left-hand thread and must
be undone clockwise. D
• Step 4: Unbolt the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys.
• Step 5: Remove the injection pump sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! You will need two FIAT tools
for this operation. One (No. 1860473000) is to prevent
the sprocket from turning when undoing the nut, and
the other (extractor No. 1842128000) to pull the sprocket
from the injection pump shaft. Alternatively it may be
possible to improvise a means of preventing sprocket
rotation, and a suitable three-leg puller may be carefully
used to withdraw the sprocket. Take care not to lose the
pump shaft Woodruff key. B
• Step 6:
Unbolt and
detach the
support bracket
(a) from the rear
of the injection
pump (b). Unbolt
the pump flange
and bracket
nuts, and
remove the
pump and its
front bracket (c).
• Step 7: Remove and discard the old oil filter.
Step 8: Remove the crankcase breather, the low-oil-
pressure switch and the oil pressure gauge sensor from the
front face of the engine.
• Step 9: Turn the engine upside down and remove the
flywheel and the sump.

• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on

axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring

from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and

unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from

the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering

arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo

the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,

pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just

taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With

the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen

the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity

joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force

to be
tightened or
released (see

Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if

you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14