wheel FIAT UNO 1983 Service Owners Manual

27The engine must now be supported at its
left-hand end. If the engine/transmission lift
bracket is unbolted it can be attached at
another suitable position on the engine and
the lift sling/tool attached to it, but take care
not to attach it to a weak fixing point.
28The engine will need to be supported
using an engine lift beam/support bar of the
type shown in Fig. 13.93. A strong wood or
metal beam resting on blocks in the front wing
drain channels will suffice, or alternatively use
an engine lift hoist and sling.
29Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter and
Section 2 in Chapter 7 for details and remove
the front driveshaft each side.
30Prise back the tabs of the retaining
washers, then undo the retaining nuts and
detach the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Detach the exhaust mounting
bracket (where applicable) and lower the
exhaust to allow access to the gearchange
linkages.
31Disconnect the gearchange control and
selector link rod balljoints (photo). Do not alter
their lengths or the adjustment setting will be
affected.
32Using a small diameter pin punch, drive the
retaining pins from the retaining clips which
secure the left-hand side underwing shield.
Prise free the clips and detach the shield.
33Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
lower cover plate from the flywheel housing
(photo).
34Position a trolley jack under the
transmission with an interposed block ofwood to protect the casing and spread the
load. Raise the jack to support the weight of
the transmission.
35Check that the weight of the engine is
securely supported, then unbolt and detach
the front engine mounting unit, then the rear
engine mounting unit.
36Unscrew and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission to the engine. As
they are removed, note the position of any
brackets or additional fixings secured by
these bolts (photo).
37Check around the transmission to ensure
that all fixings are detached from it and out of
the way, then carefully pull the transmission
free from the engine dowel pins. If possible
engage the aid of an assistant to help in
guiding or lowering the unit as it is removed.
As the unit is withdrawn from the engine, take
care not to place any strain on the input shaft.
Once the input shaft is clear of the clutch, the
transmission can be lowered and manoeuvred
from underneath the car. If available, lower the
unit onto a suitable crawler board to ease its
withdrawal from under the front end of the car.
38Dismantling and overhaul of this
transmission is not recommended. If the
transmission has covered a high mileage it is
likely that several internal components are in
need of renewal. The cumulative cost of
renewing all worn and defective components
will almost certainly make overhaul
uneconomical when compared with the cost
of a new or service exchange transmission
from a FIAT dealer or transmission specialist.39Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
a) Ensure that the engine and transmission
mating surfaces and the dowel pins are
clean and that all clutch components are
in good condition.
b) Apply a thin smear of molybdenum
disulphide grease to the splines of the
input shaft. Do not over-lubricate though
or the grease may work its way onto the
clutch friction surfaces and cause clutch
slip.
c) Raise the transmission so that it is in-line
with the engine, engage the end of the
input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub
and align the splines of each to enable the
transmission to be pushed home. It may
well be necessary to turn the flywheel a
fraction so that the splines align for
re-engagement
d) Do not fully tighten the engine and
transmission retaining bolts until all are
attached.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts and nuts of the
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).
f) Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter for
details on refitting the driveshafts.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
quantity and grade of oil before lowering
the car to the ground (see paragraph 11).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•97
Fig. 13.93 FIAT lift beam/support bar in
place to support the weight of the engine.
Inset shows lift hook engagement point -
1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.24B . . . and retaining bolts (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie engine12B.24A Starter motor electrical
connection . . .
12B.36 Transmission upper retaining bolts.
Note bracket under the left-hand bolt12B.33 Lower cover plate and retaining
bolts (arrowed)12B.31 Gear control and selector link rod
joints
13

20When reassembling, pack the joint with
special FIAT Tutela MRM2 lubricant; if this is not
available, use molybdenum disulphide grease.
21The reference groove on the outer track
must be assembled so that it is towards the
final drive when refitted (photo).
22Pack the joint and the inside of the boot
liberally with the specified grease.
23If a new joint is being fitted to the shaft,
make sure that the joint and shaft colour
codes match.
Shaft colour Joint colour
Blue Blue or white
Red Red or white
Right-hand driveshaft damper
weight (1108 cc and
1372 cc ie models) -
removal and refitting
#
24A damper weight is fitted to the longer,
right-hand driveshaft to reduce vibration (photo).25It should not be necessary to remove the
damper weight unless the driveshaft is to be
renewed, or the weight has been damaged.
26The weight is in two halves, and can be
removed by simply unscrewing the two clamp
bolts securing the two halves to the
driveshaft. Note that the weight locates on a
rubber mounting which is split along its
length, and can simply be pulled from the
driveshaft for renewal if necessary.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the damper weight is positioned
exactly as shown in Fig. 13.101.
14 Braking system
PART A: BRAKING
SYSTEM - GENERAL
Front brake pads - all later
models
1The front brake pads have modified
anti-vibration plates and a wire spring fitted to
prevent them from vibrating and knocking in
operation. 2On some models the clip securing the disc
pad locking block is located on the inboard
end, rather than the outer end (shown in
Chapter 8). To ensure correct reassembly,
check the location of the original block
retaining clip before dismantling the brake
unit. The alternative fixing arrangement is
shown in the accompanying photos, in this
instance on a 1372 cc ie model (photos).
PART B: BRAKING SYSTEM
- TURBO IE MODELS
Description
1Disc brakes are fitted to all four wheels on
the Turbo ie models. The front disc brakes are
of different design from those used on other
models, in that the wear in the pads can be
checked without the need to remove the
caliper cylinder housing.
Front disc pads - renewalª
2Raise the front of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
3Check the thickness of the friction material
on the pads through the aperture in the caliper
cylinder body. If the thickness of the material
is 1.5 mm or less, then the pads on both sides
must be renewed (photo).
13•100 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
14B.3 Front disc pads (arrowed) on Turbo
ie model14A.2B Front brake locking block
orientation with inboard retaining clip14A.2A Front brake pad locking block is
secured by a clip on the inboard end of the
brake unit on certain models
Fig. 13.101 Correct position of driveshaft damper weight on 1108 cc and 1372 cc ie
models (Sec 13)
Dimensions in mm
13.24 Right-hand driveshaft damper weight
13.21 Outer track reference groove

4Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew and remove the caliper
cylinder housing lower guide bolt (photo).
Release the upper bolt, but do not remove it.
5Swivel the cylinder housing upwards and tie
it up out of the way. There is no need to
disconnect the hydraulic hose. The sensor
wiring plug will have to be disconnected
(where fitted).
6Remove the pads, complete with anti-rattle
springs (photo).
7Clean away all dust and dirt, taking care not
to inhale it as it may be injurious to health.
8The caliper piston must now be fully
depressed to accommodate the new, thicker,
pads. Do this using a G-clamp or lever, but
anticipate a rise in the brake fluid reservoir
level by syphoning out some of the fluid using
a clean syringe.
9Fit the new pads, which must be of the
same type as the originals, complete with
anti-rattle springs.
10Locate the cylinder body. The fixing bolts
are of self-locking type, and should be
renewed whenever they are loosened or
removed. If new ones are not available, clean
the threads of the old ones thoroughly and
apply thread-locking fluid (photo). Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque. Check that the
rubber dust excluders are in good condition.
11Reconnect the sensor wiring plug.
12Renew the pads on the other front wheel.
13Refit the roadwheels, and then apply the
footbrake several times to position the pads
against the discs.14Top up the brake fluid reservoir if
necessary (photo).
Front disc caliper -
removal and refitting#
15Raise the front of the car and remove the
appropriate roadwheel.
16Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew and remove the cylinder
housing fixing bolts.
17Withdraw the cylinder housing, and then,
holding it firmly, release the flexible hydraulic
hose union. Unscrew the cylinder body from
the end of the flexible hose, and then cap the
end of the hose to prevent loss of fluid.
18If required, the disc pads can be removed
and the caliper support bracket unbolted and
removed.
19Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new fixing bolts.
20Bleed the front hydraulic circuit.
Front disc caliper - overhaul
21The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 5, paragraphs 6 to 13.
Front brake disc - inspection,
renovation or renewal
22The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 6, but the caliper fixing
bolts are secured with thread-locking fluid;
lockplates are not used.
Rear disc pads - renewal ª
23Any wear in the disc pads can be
observed through the aperture in the calipercylinder body, once the car has been jacked
up and the roadwheels removed (photo).
24If the thickness of the pad friction material
is less than 1.5 mm, renew the pads on both
sides in the following way.
25Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew the caliper cylinder body
fixing bolts.
26Withdraw the caliper and remove the disc
pads, complete with anti-rattle springs (photo).
27Clean away all dust and dirt, but avoid
inhaling it, as it may be injurious to health.
28Fully retract the caliper piston in order to
accommodate the new, thicker, pads. To do
this, rotate the piston clockwise, using a
suitable tool engaged in the handbrake
sectors (photo). Anticipate a rise in the brake
fluid reservoir level by syphoning out some
fluid, using a clean syringe.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•101
14B.10 Applying thread-locking fluid to the
bolt threads14B.6 Disc pad and anti-rattle spring
removal14B.4 Unscrewing the caliper cylinder
housing lower guide bolt
14B.28 Rotating a rear caliper piston14B.26 Withdrawing the rear brake caliper14B.23 Rear brake pad inspection aperture
14B.14 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir
(1301 cc Turbo ie model)
13

14B.54 Master cylinder/vacuum servo
located next to the coolant expansion tank
(1301 cc Turbo ie model)
29Fit the new pads, complete with anti-rattle
springs (photo).
30Refit the caliper using new self-locking
bolts, or if not available, apply thread-locking
fluid to clean threads of the original bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
31Apply the brake pedal several times to
bring the disc pads up against the disc.
32Top up the brake fluid reservoir if
necessary.
33Check the adjustment of the handbrake.
34Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
Rear disc caliper -
removal, overhaul and
refitting
¢
35Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 25 to 27.36Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
caliper. To do this, grip the cable nipple and
pull it until the cable can be slipped out of its
lever groove (photo). If necessary, slacken the
cable adjustment.
37Using a pair of pliers or similar tool, turn
the piston in an anti-clockwise direction until it
can be removed from the cylinder.
38Having obtained a repair kit, renew the
seal and dust excluder.
39Reassemble the piston to the cylinder,
turning it clockwise as far as it will go.
40Reconnect the handbrake cable.
41Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 30 to 32.
Rear brake disc -
inspection, renovation
or renewal
ª
42The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 6, but the caliper bracket
fixing bolts are of the socket-headed type and
thread-locking fluid is used, not lockplates
(photo).
Pressure regulating valve
43The valve renewal and adjustment
operations are described in Chapter 8,
Section 10, but the luggage compartment
should be loaded with 45 kg and the load
applied to the bracket eye should be 11 kg.
Brake pedal -
removal and refitting#
44The brake master cylinder and vacuum
servo are mounted on the left-hand side of theengine compartment rear bulkhead. In conse-
quence, the brake pedal on right-hand drive
cars operates through a cross-shaft, which is
located underneath the facia panel inside the
car.
45The cross-shaft is supported in two
brackets, whose mounting nuts can be
reached through cut-outs in the insulation on
the engine compartment rear bulkhead (photo).
46To remove the cross-shaft, working inside
the car, take off the cover from the left-hand
end of the shaft, and then disconnect the
servo pushrod from the crankarm on the
cross-shaft (photo).
47Disconnect the brake pedal from the
right-hand crankarm on the cross-shaft
(photo).
48Disconnect the accelerator pedal by
extracting the split pin which secures its pivot
spindle.
49The cross-shaft may now be removed
after extracting the cotter pin from the
left-hand end of the shaft.
50Push the shaft first to the right, and then
to the left, to release it from its brackets.
51Alternatively, the cross-shaft, complete
with brackets, may be removed as an
assembly if the bulkhead nuts are unscrewed.
52Removal of the brake and clutch pedals is
described in Chapter 5, Section 4, but note
that on hydraulic clutch models, the master
cylinder will also require removal as described
in Section 11 of this Chapter.
53Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
13•102 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
14B.47 Right-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft14B.46 Left-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft
14B.45 Brake pedal cross-shaft fixed nut
(arrowed) on engine compartment rear
bulkhead
14B.42 Unscrewing a rear caliper bracket
bolt14B.36 Disconnecting the handbrake cable
from the caliper lever14B.29 Rear disc pad

Vacuum servo unit and master
cylinder - general
54Access to the vacuum servo unit and the
master cylinder can only be obtained after the
cooling system expansion tank has been
released and moved aside (photo).
Antiskid system - description
55This system is available as an option on
the Turbo ie models only.
56The purpose of the system is to prevent
the wheel(s) locking during heavy brake
applications. This is achieved by automatic
release of the brake on a roadwheel which is
about to lock up, after which the brake is
re-applied. This cycle is carried out many
times per second under heavy braking,
retaining full steering control to avoid any
hazards.
57The main components of the system are
shown in Fig. 13.102. The control module
processes the signals received from the
sensors, and compares them with
deceleration values of the roadwheel and the
slip values of the tyre, which are stored in the
module memory.
58When reference values are exceeded and
wheel lock is imminent, the control module
signals the pressure modulators, which in turn
decrease the brake hydraulic pressure.
59Vehicle road speeds are also taken into
account by the module’s electronic circuits.
60In order to retain optimum system
performance, the tyres and wheels shouldalways be of the type originally fitted by the
vehicle manufacturer.
61Maintenance of the system should be
limited to checking the security of all electrical
and hydraulic connections. Individual compo-
nents are not repairable, and must be
renewed complete if faulty.15 Electrical system
Alternator (999 and
1108 cc models) -
removal and refitting
Á
1To remove the alternator from 999 cc
engine models, disconnect the leads from the
terminals on its rear face.
2Extract the screws and remove the plastic
drivebelt guard.
3Slacken the mounting and adjuster bolts,
push the alternator in towards the engine and
remove the drivebelt.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts,
and withdraw the alternator downwards
through the gap between the right-hand
driveshaft and the engine sump pan (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal; re-tension
the drivebelt.
Alternator (later models) -
removal and refitting Á
6Disconnect the battery negative lead.
7Loosen off the right-hand front roadwheelbolts, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. Remove the
right-hand roadwheel.
8Remove the wheel arch underwing shield
by driving the compression pins from the
centre of the retaining clips (using a 2 mm
drift), then prise free the panel retaining clips
and remove the shield. Keep the pins and
clips in a safe place and renew any that may
have been damaged during removal (photo).
9Detach the wiring connector from the
alternator.
10Release the alternator mounting and belt
adjuster link bolts, and take off the drivebelt.
11Take out the alternator top and bottom
mounting bolts.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•103
15.4 Removing the alternator from the
999 cc engine
Fig. 13.102 Braking system on Turbo ie Antiskid models (Sec 14)
13
1 Electronic control unit
(ECU)
2 Roadwheel speed
sensors
3 Pressure modulators
4 Vacuum reservoir
5 Check valve
6 Air cleaner
7 Load proportioning
(pressure regulating)
valves
8 Vacuum switch
9 ECU relay
10 System fault warning
lamp relay
11 System fault warning
lamp
12 Brake stop lamp
switch

15.23A Starter motor removal from the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine15.20 Starter motor removal from the
999 cc engine
12Disconnect the air cooling hose from the
rear cover of the alternator, and then unscrew
the fixing nuts and take off the rear cover with
hose spout. Mark the position of the cover on
the alternator before removing it, so that the
spout will be correctly positioned when
refitted (photos).
13Unbolt the driveshaft bearing
support/alternator bracket from the engine
crankcase, and swivel the support
downwards to provide space for withdrawal of
the alternator (photo).
14Withdraw the alternator from under the
right-hand front wing (photo).
15Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refit
the drivebelt and ensure correct engagement
with the pulleys, then set the drivebelt tension
and tighten the alternator retaining nuts.Alternator brushes -
renewal#
16Depending on model, the brush holder is
secured by two screws, which should be ex-
tracted and the brush holder removed (photos).
17New brushes and the holder are supplied
as an assembly.
Starter motor
(999 cc models) -
removal and refitting
Á
18To remove the starter motor from 999 and
1108 cc models, first disconnect the leads
from the starter motor terminals.
19Release the washer fluid reservoir flexible
bag from the engine compartment rear
bulkhead and move it to the left-hand side.
20Unscrew the starter motor mountingbolts, withdraw the starter from the flywheel
bellhousing, and then lift it out of the left-hand
side of the engine compartment (photo).
21Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Starter motor (1301 cc Turbo ie,
1372 cc ie,
1372 cc Turbo ie) -
removal and refitting
Á
22Disconnect the battery. Working from
under the front end of the car, unscrew the
starter motor mounting bolts and disconnect
the electrical leads.
23Withdraw the starter motor downwards. On
Turbo models, there is just enough clearance, if
the oil cooler hose and the oil pressure switch
lead are deflected carefully aside (photos).
24Refit by reversing the removal operations.
13•104 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.16B Removing the alternator brush
holder
15.16A Extracting the alternator brush
holder screw15.14 Withdrawing the alternator15.13 Driveshaft bracket swivelled
downwards
15.12B Alternator rear cover and fixing nut15.12A Alternator air cooling hose15.8 Remove the wheel arch lower guard
panel for access to the alternator

adjustment procedures are the same as those
outlined for the previous model units in
Chapter 9, but ensure that the load
compensation lever is turned to the “O”
(normal load setting) position before making
any adjustments.
Headlamp unit removal - later
models
32The removal and refitting procedures
described in Chapter 9 also apply to the later
headlamp type, but note that later units are
secured in position by three retaining screws.
Headlamp dim-dip system -
description
33On later models, the wiring circuit has
been modified to prevent the car being drivenon parking lamps only in built-up areas.
34Headlamp intensity is reduced by the
transformer located at the front of the engine
compartment (photo).
35Any attempt to start the car with parking
lamps only on will automatically cause the
headlamps to switch on with a low-intensity
dipped beam. Dipped and main beam
function normally.
36The headlamp dim-dip system is a legal
requirement for all UK models registered after
April 1st, 1987.
Front fog lamps - bulb/unit
removal and refitting
and beam adjustment
ª
37Ensure that the front fog lamps are
switched off, then unscrew the two retainingscrews and withdraw the lamp unit from the
underside of the front bumper (photos).
38Undo the retaining screw and remove the
access cover from the unit (photo).
39Disconnect the wiring connector from the
bulb, release the clips and withdraw the bulb
from the lamp (photo).
40Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check the light for satisfactory operation and
if the beam requires resetting, turn the
adjustment screw in the required direction.
41To adjust the beam, position the car 5 m
from, and square on to, a wall or similar.
42Measure the height of the centre of the
lamp lens from the ground and mark the
position on the wall. Switch on the lamp. The
demarcation line (cut-off) of the light should
be below the mark on the wall by 50 mm plus
one-third of the ground-to-lamp centre
measurement. Adjust the beam as required
using the long centre screw.
Horn - relocation
43The single horn, on applicable models, is
now located behind the grille, bolted on a
bracket attached to the top rail (photo).
Steering column combination
switches (later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
44Disconnect the battery negative lead.
45Undo the retaining screws and remove
the steering column shrouds (photos).
46Remove the steering wheel as described
in Chapter 10.
13•106 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.45B . . . then remove the upper . . .15.45A Undo the retaining screws . . .15.43 Horn location
15.39 . . . detach the wires, extract the bulb15.38 . . . remove the rear cover . . .
15.37B . . . and withdraw the front fog lamp
unit . . .15.37A Undo the retaining bolts . . .15.34 Headlamp dim-dip transformer

Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13

14•2 Wiring diagrams
No Description
06355 Battery charging warning light
06365 Choke warning light
06368 Antiskid system failure lamp
06385 Heated rear screen warning light
06800 Horn
06801 Right horn
06802 Left horn
07000 Coolant level sensor
07001 Engine oil level sensor
07003 Brake fluid level sensor
07015 Right front brake pad wear sensor
07016 Left front brake pad wear sensor
07020 Engine speed sensor
07021 TDC sensor
07022 Anti-knock sensor
07023 Diagnostic socket
07037 Butterfly valve (cut-off) switch
07050 Fuel gauge
07051 Instant fuel consumption gauge (econometer)
07052 Airflow meter
07060 Idle cut-off device
07107 Roadwheel speed sensors
07109 Vacuum switch
07191 Absolute pressure sensor
07192 Vacuum switch
07400 Fuel gauge
07410 Engine oil temperature gauge
07415 Coolant temperature gauge
07420 Engine oil pressure gauge
07430 Tachometer
07460 Clock
07461 Digital clockNo Description
08051 Ignition coil condenser
09000 Dim-dip transformer
09008 Radiator cooling fan 1st speed resistor
09100 Heated rear screen
10022 Cut-off device electronic control unit
10500 Control (fuse) box
10515 Electronic injection control unit
10571 Central locking control unit
10584 Antiskid system ECU
10586 Pressure modulators
59000 Cigar lighter
60000 Instrument panel
60204 Four place fusebox
70090 General earth
70091 General earth
70092 Earth plate
M Electronic control unit
Wire colour codes
A Light blue
B White
C Orange
G Yellow
H Grey
L Blue
M Brown
N Black
R Red
S Pink
V Green
Z Violet
Example of two-colour wire: BN (White/Black) Component key for wiring diagrams 1 to 29 (continued)
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models

Wiring diagrams 14•21
14
Component key for wiring diagrams 30 to 52 (continued)
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
111 Push button on left front pillar for
centre courtesy light
112 Front electric windows switch panel,
driver’s side
113 Join between dashboard cable and
adjustable map reading light cables
114 Join with left front electric window
cables
115 Join between dashboard cable and
rear cables
116 Join between rear cable and courtesy
light cables
117 Left front speaker
118 Handbrake ‘on’ switch
119 Centre courtesy light bulb
119A Adjustable map reading light on rear
view mirror
120 Right front electric window motor
121 Right front central locking geared
motor
122 Switch signalling right front door ajar
123 Push button on right front pillar for
centre courtesy light
124 Electric windows control panel,
passenger side
125 Fuel level gauge
126 Join with right front electric window
cables
127 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
128 Right front speaker
129 Left rear light cluster
130 Join between rear cable and luggage
compartment courtesy light
131 Windscreen washer pump wiring join
132 Rear screen washer pump wiring join
133 Left rear earth
134 Rear screen wiper motor
135 Electric fuel pump
136 Rear number plate lamp
137 Heated rear screen
138 Right rear light cluster
139 Rear foglamp go-ahead switch
140 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
141 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
142 25 A fuse for antiskid brakes
143 Antiskid braking system control unit
144 Left modulator for antiskid brakes
145 Right modulator for antiskid brakes
146 Sensor on left front wheel
147 Sensor on right front wheel
148 10A fuse for antiskid braking system
149 Vacuum switch for antiskid braking
system
150 Antiskid braking system engagement
relay
151 Antiskid braking system failure
signalling switch
152 Digiplex electronic ignition control
unitNo Description
153 Bosch SPi Mono-Jetronic injection
system control unit
155 Join between engine cable and
injection cables
156 Join between engine cable and rear
cables for SPi system
157 Idle adjustment actuator
158 Throttle position switch
159 Injector current restriction resistor
(SPi)
162 Engine cut-out solenoid
163 Idle cut-out solenoid valve
168 Tachometer electro-magnetic sensor
169 Automatic heater control unit
170 Heater fan
171 Outside temperature sensor
172 Mixed air temperature sensor
173 Air mixture flap electrical control
motor
174 Diagnostic socket for automatic
heater
175 Connector block
176 Connector block
177 Join with cables for automatic heater
178 Radiator coolant circulation solenoid
valve
179 Automatic heater unit:
A Temperature control potentiometer
B Fan speed control potentiometer
C Heater controls light bulbs
D Ideogram signalling automatic
function engaged
E Automatic function engaged
switch
180 Horn
181 Check Panel:
A Insufficient engine oil level warning
light
B Insufficient coolant level warning
light
C Failure with side lights/rear
foglamp/rear number
plate light/braking lights warning light
D Insufficient brake fluid level
warning light
E Door ajar warning light
F Brake pad wear warning light
182 Earth on dashboard
183 Join with cables for central locking
184 Join with cables for central locking
185 Left rear central locking geared motor
186 Right rear central locking geared
motor
187 Contact on choke lever
188 Resistor for inlet manifold heating
189 Pre-heating thermal switch
191 Heated Lambda sensor
192 Lambda sensor protective fuse
193 Silicon diode
194 Join between front cable and injection
cable
197 Connector blockNo Description
198 Rear cable join
199 Insufficient engine oil level sensor
200 Insufficient coolant level sensor
201 Switch signalling left rear door ajar
202 Switch signalling right rear door ajar
203 Switch on gear selector
204 Light for gear selector panel signalling
gear engaged
205 Parking signal not on
206 Connector block
207 Join in engine compartment with
injection cables
208 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
209 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
210 Airflow meter
211 Speedometer relay
212 LE2 Jetronic electronic injection
control unit
213 Connector block
214 Connector block
215 Connector block
216 Ignition cable join
217 Join between front cable and
emission control cable
218 Join between front cable and battery
cable
219 Injection system air temperature
sensor
220 Ignition control unit relay feed
225 Front cable join
226 Front cable join
227 Dim-dip circuit cut out switch
228 Dim-dip circuit resistance
229 Dim-dip circuit 7.5 A protective fuse
230 Driver’s side seat heated pad
231 Driver’s seat backrest heated pad
232 10 A protective fuse for driver’s seat
heated pads
233 Foglamps go-ahead switch
234 Driving lights cut out switch
235 Dipped headlamps relay
236 Main beam headlamps relay
237 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
Wire colour codes
A Light blue
B White
C Orange
G Yellow
H Grey
L Blue
M Brown
N Black
R Red
S Pink
V Green
Z Violet
Example of two-colour wire:
BN (White/Black)