ECO mode FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

into its cylinder to accommodate them. This
will cause the fluid level to rise in the reservoir.
Anticipate this by syphoning some out
beforehand, but take care not to let it drip
onto the paintwork - it acts as an effective
paint stripperl
8Refit the anti-rattle springs, the pads
(friction lining-to-disc), the cylinder body, the
locking blocks and their retaining clips
(photos).
9Refit the roadwheel and apply the footbrake
hard, several times, to bring the pads into
contact with the brake disc.
10Renew the pads on the opposite brake.
The pads should always be renewed in axle
sets.
11Top up the fluid reservoir.
4 Rear brake shoes-
inspection and renewal
2
1Jack up the rear of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
2Fully release the handbrake.
3Unscrew and remove the drum securing
bolts. One of these is a long locating spigot
for the roadwheel.
4Pull off the drum. lf it is tight, clean off the
rust at its joint with the hub flange, and apply
a little penetrating fluid. Two bolts may be
screwed into the drum securing bolt holes if
necessary and the drum thus eased off the
hub. The securing bolt holes are tapped for
this purpose.
5Brush away all the dust and dirt from the
shoes and operating mechanism, taking care
not to inhale it.
6The friction linings fitted as original
equipment are of the bonded type and the
rivet heads normally used as a guide to wear
are not, of course, fitted. However, if the
thickness of the friction linings is down to
1.5 mm (0.06 in) or less, the shoes must be
renewed. Always purchase new or factory
relined brake shoes.
7Before removing the brake shoes, note the
way in which the shoes are positioned, with
respect to leading and trailing ends (the end
of the shoe not covered by lining material).Note also into which holes in the shoe web
the return springs are connected. Sketch the
shoes or mark the holes on the new shoes
with quick drying paint if you are doubtful
about remembering (photo).
8Undo the steady springs by depressing and
rotating their caps a quarter turn to disengage
the slot from the pin. On later models a
U-shaped steady spring is used. Depress and
slide it out.
9Rotate the hub until the cut-outs in its rear
flange face are in alignment with the shoe
self-adjusters.
10Pivot the trailing shoe on the self-adjuster
post and disengage the ends of the shoe from
the slot in the wheel cylinder tappet and from
the lower anchor block.
11Work the shoe up the self-adjuster pivot
post until the self-adjuster boss enters the
cut-out in the hub flange. The shoe can now
be withdrawn (photo).
12Once off the self-adjuster post, the
pull-off spring tension is eased, as the shoe
can move towards the other, so the springs
can be unhooked.
13Remove the leading shoe in a similar way.
14The new shoes will already be fitted with
new self-adjusters.
15Fit the new shoes to their self-adjuster
posts, making sure that the handbrake shoe
lever is correctly located. Engage the ends of
the shoes.
16Using a wooden or plastic-faced mallet,
tap the shoes inwards against the friction of
their self-adjuster coil springs. This will havethe effect of reducing the overall diameter of
the shoes to facilitate fitting of the shoe return
springs and to allow the brake drum to slide
over them.
17Using pliers, reconnect the upper (longer)
and lower shoe return springs.
18Hold the steady pins in position from the
rear of the backplate. Fit the small coil springs
and the retaining cap, again using pliers to
grip the cap and to depress and turn it to
engage the pin. On later models fit the
U-shaped springs.
19Before refitting the drum, clean it out and
examine it for grooves or scoring (refer to
Section 8).
20Fit the drum and the roadwheel.
21Apply the brakes two or three times to
position the shoes close to the drum.
22Renew the shoes on the opposite brake in
a similar way.
23The handbrake should be automatically
adjusted by the action of the shoe adjuster. If
the handbrake control lever has excessive
travel, refer to Section 16 for separate
adjusting instructions.
5 Caliper- removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of
overhaul.
1Jack up the front roadwheel and remove it.
2Brush away all dirt from the caliper
Braking system 8•3
4.11 Rear hub showing cut-outs on rear
face for shoe self-adjuster bosses4.7 Rear brake assembly3.8B Cylinder body located on caliper
bracket
Fig. 8.2 Exploded view of caliper (Sec 5)
8

9 Master cylinder- removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Purchase a repair kit in advance of
overhaul.
1The master cylinder is mounted on the front
face of the brake vacuum servo unit (55 and
70 models) or directly to the bulkhead (45
models).
2Cover the front wings with polythene
sheeting or similar material, in case hydraulic
fluid spills onto the paintwork of the car during
removal of the cylinder.
3Detach the leads from the terminals on the
reservoir cap, then unscrew and remove the
cap and float.
4Unscrew the pipe unions and prise the
pipes carefully away from the master cylinder.
Cap the open ends of the pipes and catch any
fluid leaking from the master cylinder in a
suitable container.
5Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder from the bulkhead or from
the servo unit.
6Clean away all external dirt and tip out the
fluid from the reservoir and cylinder body.
7The fluid reservoirs need not be removed
from the master cylinder but if they are, renew
the rubber sealing collars when refitting.
8Grip the master cylinder in a vice, then
unscrew and remove the end plug. Catch the
coil spring.
9Using a thin rod, apply pressure to the end
of the primary piston then unscrew and
remove the two stop bolts and sealing
washers.
10The internal piston assemblies with seals
and springs can now be pushed out of the
cylinder body. Keep all the components in
Braking system 8•5
Fig. 8.5 Sectional view of master cylinder (Sec 9)
1 Cylinder body
2 Spring and cup
3 Inlet from reservoir
4 Secondary piston
5 Seal
6 Fluid outlet to front brakes7 Spring and cup
8 Inlet from reservoir
9 Primary piston
10 Seal
12 Stop bolts13 Spacer
14 Springs
15 Seal
16 End plug and fluid outlet to
rear brakes
Fig. 8.6 Exploded view of master cylinder (Sec 9)
1 Cylinder body 2 Secondary piston 3 Primary piston 4 Stop bolt
8Fig. 8.7 Sectional view of vacuum servo unit (Sec 9)
1 Master cylinder
2 Master cylinder
primary piston
3 Non-return valve
4 Front seal
5 Pushrod
6 Front chamber
7 Vacuum port
8 Plunger
9 Seal centraliser
10 Valve
11 Spring cup
12 Spring cup
13 Filter
14 Pushrod
15 Dust excluding
boot
16 Return spring
17 Valve spring18 Valve cup
19 Rear seal
20 Seal
21 Cup
22 Rear chamber
23 Backing plate
24 Diaphragm
25 Vacuum piston
26 Front shell
27 Return spring
28 Cup
29 Guide bush
30 Seal
31 Rear shell
A = Projection of
pushrod above
vacuum cylinder
face
2
3
1
4

their originally fitted sequence and note in
which direction the seal lips are located.
11Inspect the surfaces of the piston and
cylinder bore. If scoring, corrosion or
metal-to-metal rubbing areas are evident,
renew the master cylinder complete.
12If the components are in good condition,
discard the oil seals and manipulate the new
ones into position, using the fingers only.
13Refit by reversing the removal operations;
apply pressure to the piston ends so that the
stop bolts can be fitted, then tighten the end
plug. Make sure that the grooves in the
pistons engage in the stop bolts.
14Before refitting the master cylinder to the
servo, measure the projection of the servo
piston pushrod. When the master cylinder is
fitted, there must be a clearance (see A in
Fig. 8.7) between the end of the pushrod and
the primary piston end face of between 0.825
and 1.025 mm (0.03 and 0.04 in). A depth
gauge will be required for these
measurements, the reference point being the
mating surfaces of the master cylinder and the
vacuum servo.
15Alter the adjusting screw on the servo as
necessary and lock it by applying locking fluid
to the threads on completion.16Bolt the master cylinder to the vacuum
servo or bulkhead, then reconnect the
pipelines and reservoir cap leads.
17Bleed the complete hydraulic system, as
described in Section 12.
10 Pressure regulating valve
3
1The pressure regulating valve is a load
proportioning valve which restricts the
hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes
according to car weight during heavy
applications of the brake pedal. This prevents
the rear wheels locking.
2A faulty or non-operational valve should be
renewed complete, no repair being possible.
3To remove the valve, unscrew the pipe
unions and disconnect the hydraulic pipes
from the valve. Cap the ends of the pipes to
prevent loss of fluid.
4Unbolt the valve mounting bracket,
withdraw it and disconnect the tension spring
(photo).
5Refit the new valve and then adjust it in the
following way.
6Have the car standing on a level floor.
7The car should be normally loaded (kerb
weight) with fuel, oil, spare wheel etc. Load
the luggage compartment immediately behind
the seat back with:
65 kg (143 lbs) on three-door models or 55 kg (121 lbs) on five-door models
8Refer to Fig. 8.10 and slacken the valve
bracket securing bolt (1).
9Attach a 6.0 kg (13.2 lb) weight to the
bracket eye (2) as shown and then tighten the
bracket securing bolt.
10Bleed the braking system if a new valve
has been fitted. Bleeding will not of course be
required if only adjustment has been carried
out to an existing valve.11 Hydraulic hoses and pipes-
inspection and renewal
3
Flexible hoses
1Periodically, all brake pipes, pipe
connections and unions should be completely
and carefully examined.
2First examine for signs of leakage where the
pipe unions occur. Then examine the flexible
hoses for signs of chafing and fraying and, of
course, leakage. This is only a preliminary part
of the flexible hose inspection, as exterior
condition does not necessarily indicate the
interior condition, which will be considered
later.
3Flexible hoses are always mounted at both
ends in a rigid bracket attached to the body or
a sub-assembly. To remove them, it is
necessary first of all to unscrew the pipe
unions of the rigid pipes which go into them.
8•6 Braking system
Fig. 8.11 Typical hydraulic hose connection
(Sec 11)
Fig. 8.10 Weight attachment point for
pressure regulating valve adjustment (Sec 10)
1 Fixing bolt 2 Bracket eye
Fig. 8.9 Components of the pressure
regulating valve (Sec 10)
Fig. 8.8 Pressure regulating valve (Sec 10)10.4 Pressure regulating valve bracket and
tension spring

The hose ends can then be unclipped from
the brackets. The mounting brackets,
particularly on the body frame, are not very
heavy gauge and care must be taken not to
wrench them off (photo).
4With the flexible hose removed, examine
the internal bore. If it is blown through first, it
should be possible to see through it. Any
specks of rubber which come out, or signs of
restriction in the bore, mean that the inner
lining is breaking up and the pipe must be
renewed.
5When refitting the flexible hoses check they
cannot be under tension, or rub, when the
wheels are at the full range of suspension or
steering movement.
6Bleed the system (see Section 12) on
completion.
Rigid pipes
7Inspect the condition of the braking system
rigid pipelines at frequent intervals. They must
be cleaned off and examined for any signs of
dents (or other percussive damage) and rust
and corrosion. Rust and corrosion should be
scraped off and, if the depth of pitting in the
pipes is significant, they will need renewal.
This is particularly likely in those areas
underneath the car body and along the rear
axle where the pipes are exposed to the full
force of road and weather conditions.
8Rigid pipe removal is usually straight-
forward. The unions at each end are undone,
the pipe and union pulled out, and the centre
sections of the pipe removed from the body
clips where necessary. Underneath the car,
exposed unions can sometimes be very tight.
As one can use only an open-ended spanner
and the unions are not large, burring of the
flats is not uncommon when attempting to
undo them. For this reason, a self-locking grip
wrench (Mole) is often the only way to remove
a stubborn union.
9Rigid pipes which need renewal can usually
be purchased at any garage where they have
the pipe, unions and special tools to make
them up. All they need to know is the total
length of the pipe, the type of flare used at
each end with the union, and the length and
thread of the union. Fiat is metric, remember.
10Fitting your new pipes is a straightforwardreversal of the removal procedure. If the rigid
pipes have been made up, it is best to get all
the sets bends in them before trying to fit
them. Also, if there are any acute bends ask
your supplier to put these in for you on a tube
bender. Otherwise, you may kink the pipe and
thereby restrict the bore area and fluid flow.
11Bleed the system (see Section 12) on
completion.
12 Hydraulic system-
bleeding
3
1If the master cylinder or the pressure
regulating valve has been disconnected and
reconnected then the complete system (both
circuits) must be bled.
2If a component of one circuit has been
disturbed then only that particular circuit need
be bled.
3The two disc brakes comprise the front
circuit and the two rear brakes the rear circuit.
4Unless the pressure bleeding method is
being used, do not forget to keep the fluid
level in the master cylinder reservoir topped
up to prevent air from being drawn into the
system which would make any work done
worthless.
5Before commencing operations, check that
all system hoses and pipes are in good
condition with all unions tight and free from
leaks.
6Take great care not to allow hydraulic fluid
to come into contact with the vehicle
paintwork as it is an effective paint stripper.
Wash off any spilled fluid immediately with
cold water.
7As the system on 55 and 70 models
incorporates a vacuum servo, destroy the
vacuum by giving several applications of the
brake pedal in quick succession. The car
should be loaded with enough weight to
actuate the pressure regulating valve before
bleeding commences.
Bleeding - two man method
8Gather together a clean glass jar and a
length of rubber or plastic tubing which will be
a tight fit on the brake bleed screws (photo).9Engage the help of an assistant.
10Push one end of the bleed tube onto the
flrst bleed screw and immerse the other end
of the glass jar which should contain enough
hydraulic fluid to cover the end of the tube.
11Open the bleed screw one half a turn and
have your assistant depress the brake pedal
fully then slowly release it. Tighten the bleed
screw at the end of each pedal downstroke to
obviate any chance of air or fluid being drawn
back into the system.
12Repeat this operation until clean hydraulic
fluid, free from air bubbles, can be seen
coming through into the jar.
13Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a
pedal downstroke and remove the bleed tube.
Bleed the remaining screws in a similar way.
Bleeding - using a one way
valve kit
14There are a number of one-man, one-way
brake bleeding kits available from motor
accessory shops. It is recommended that one
of these kits is used wherever possible as it will
greatly simplify the bleeding operation and also
reduce the risk of air or fluid being drawn back
into the system quite apart from being able to
do the work without the help of an assistant.
15To use the kit, connect the tube to the
bleedscrew and open the screw one half a
turn.
16Depress the brake pedal fully and slowly
release it. The one-way valve in the kit will
prevent expelled air from returning at the end
of each pedal downstroke. Repeat this
operation several times to be sure of ejecting
all air from the system. Some kits include a
translucent container which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can actually be seen
being ejected from the system.
17Tighten the bleed screw, remove the tube
and repeat the operations on the remaining
brakes.
18On completion, depress the brake pedal. If it
still feels spongy repeat the bleeding operations
as air must still be trapped in the system.
Bleeding - using a pressure
bleeding kit
19These kits too are available from motor
accessory shops and are usually operated by
air pressure from the spare tyre.
Braking system 8•7
12.8 Caliper bleed screw with dust cap
fittedFig. 8.12 Bleeding a rear wheel cylinder
(Sec 12)11.3 Front hydraulic hose bracket
8

20By connecting a pressurised container to
the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
then carried out by simply opening each bleed
screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out,
rather like turning on a tap, until no air is
visible in the expelled fluid.
21By using this method, the large reserve of
hydraulic fluid provides a safeguard against
air being drawn into the master cylinder
during bleeding which often occurs if the fluid
level in the reservoir is not maintained.
22Pressure bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems or when
bleeding the complete system at time of
routine fluid renewal.
All methods
23When bleeding is completed, check and
top up the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir.
24Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system and further bleeding is indicated.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable period of the bleeding operation,
may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
25Discard brake fluid which has been
expelled. lt is almost certain to be
contaminated with moisture, air and dirt
making it unsuitable for further use. Clean
fluid should always be stored in an airtight
container as it absorbs moisture readily
(hygroscopic) which lowers its boiling point
and could affect braking performance under
severe conditions.
13 Vacuum servo unit-
description
A vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake
hydraulic circuit on 55 and 70 models in series
with the master cylinder, to provide assistance
to the driver when the brake pedal is
depressed. This reduces the effort required by
the driver to operate the brakes under all
braking conditions.
The unit operates by vacuum obtained from
the induction manifold and comprises basically
a booster diaphragm and non-return valve. The
servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are
connected together so that the servo unit
piston rod acts as the master cylinder pushrod.
The driver’s braking effort is transmitted
through another pushrod to the servo unit
piston and its built-in control system. The servo
unit piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder,
but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges
in constant contact with the cylinder wall, so
assuring an air tight seal between the two
parts. The forward chamber is held under
vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold
of the engine and, during periods when the
brake pedal is not in use, the controls open a
passage to the rear chamber so placing it
under vacuum conditions as well. When the
brake pedal is depressed, the vacuum passageto the rear chamber is cut off and the chamber
opened to atmospheric pressure. The
consequent rush of air pushes the servo piston
forward in the vacuum chamber and operates
the main pushrod to the master cylinder.
The controls are designed so that
assistance is given under all conditions and,
when the brakes are not required, vacuum in
the rear chamber is established when the
brake pedal is released. All air from the
atmosphere entering the rear chamber is
passed through a small air filter.
Under normal operating conditions, the
vacuum servo unit is very reliable and does
not require overhaul except at very high
mileages. In this case, it is far better to obtain
a service exchange unit, rather than repair the
original unit.
It is emphasised that the servo unit assists
in reducing the braking effort required at the
foot pedal and in the event of its failure, the
hydraulic braking system is in no way affected
except that the need for higher pressures will
be noticed.
14 Vacuum servo unit-
servicing and testing
1Regularly, check that the vacuum hose
which runs between the servo unit and the
inlet manifold is in good condition and is a
tight fit at both ends.
2If broken or badly clogged, renew the air
filter which is located around the brake pedal
push rod. Access to this is obtained by
disconnecting the pushrod from the
cross-shaft or pedal arm, withdrawing the
pushrod, dust excluding boot and end cap.
3If the new filter is cut diagonally from its
centre hole, future renewal can be carried out
without the need for disconnection of the
pushrod.
4If the efficiency of the servo unit is suspect,
it can be checked out in the following way.
5Run the engine, then switch off the ignition.
Depress the footbrake pedal; the distinctive
in-rush of air into the servo should be clearly
heard. It should be possible to repeat this
operation several times before the vacuum in
the system is exhausted.
6Start the engine and have an assistant
apply the footbrake pedal and hold it down.
Disconnect the vacuuum hose from the servo.
There should not be any in-rush of air into the
servo through the connecting stub. lf there is,
the servo diaphragm is probably faulty. During
this test, expect the engine to idle roughly,
unless the open end of the hose to the inlet
manifold is plugged. Reconnect the hose.
7With the engine off, depress the brake
pedal fully. Start the engine with the brake
pedal still depressed; the pedal should be felt
to go down fractionally.
8If the results of these tests are not
satisfactory, remove the unit and fit a new one
as described in the next Section.
15 Vacuum servo unit-
removal and refitting
3
1Syphon as much fluid as possible out of the
master cylinder reservolr.
2Disconnect electrical leads from the
terminals in the reservoir cap then uncouple
the rigid pipelines from the master cylinder
body. Be prepared to catch leaking fluid and
plug the open ends of the pipelines.
3The master cylinder can be unbolted now
from the servo unit, or detached later when
the complete assembly is withdrawn.
4Working inside the car, disconnect the
servo pushrod from the pedal then remove the
servo mounting nuts.
5Withdraw the servo assembly into the
engine compartment, then remove it to the
bench. lf the master cylinder is still attached,
cover the wings with protective sheeting, in
case brake fluid is spilled during removal.
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but adjust the pushrod clearance as
described in Section 9. On completion of
refitting, bleed the complete hydraulic system
as described in Section 12. Note: Where the
help of an assistant is available, the servo
pushrod need not be disconnected from the
pedal. The rod is a sliding fit in the servo and
the servo can be simply pulled off the rod.
Refitting without having disconnected the rod
from the pedal can be difficult unless the help
of an assistant is available.
16 Handbrake- adjustment
1
Adjustment is normally automatic, by the
movement of the rear brake shoes on their
automatic adjusters.
However, owing to cable stretch,
supplementary adjustment is occasionally
required at the control lever adjuster nut. The
need for this adjustment is usually indicated
by excessive movement of the control lever
when fully applied.
1The rear brakes should be fully applied
when the handbrake control lever has been
pulled over four or five notches.
2If adjustment is required, release the
8•8 Braking system
16.2 Handbrake adjuster nuts

9System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 negative earth, battery alternator and pre-engaged starter
Battery
Except 70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ah
70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Ah
Alternator
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Valeo or Bosch 45A, 55A or 65A, with integral voltage
regulator
Nominal voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 V
Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm (0.236 in)
Starter motor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Bosch or Femsa pre-engaged
Nominal power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 kW or 1.0 kW
Armature shaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.5 mm (0.0039 to 0.0197 in)
Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.39 in)
Wiper blades
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4801 (19 in) or X-4503 (18 in)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-3303
Chapter 9 Electrical system
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Alternator - maintenance and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Alternator - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery - inspection, charging, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Central door locking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Check control (warning module) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Cigar lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Clocks - setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Courtesy lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Economy gauge (Econometer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Electrically-operated front door windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Exterior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Fault finding - electrical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Fuses and relays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlamp beam - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Headlamp bulb - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Heated tailgate window - precautions and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Instrument panel - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Interior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Radio/cassette - fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Rocker and push-button switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Speedometer drive cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Starter motor - description and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Starter motor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Steering column combination switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Tailgate contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Tailgate wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Voltage regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Washer system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Windscreen wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General description
The electrical system is of 12 volt negative
earth type and employs a belt-driven
alternator and a pre-engaged type starter
motor.
The models in the range are all adequately
equipped with electrical accessories, while SX
versions also have power windows and
centralised door locking plus a check control
system (Section 34).
2 Battery- inspection, charging,
removal and refitting
2
1The battery is of maintenance-free type and
under normal circumstances, no topping up
will be required, but regularly check that the
electrolyte level is between the minimum and
maximum lines on the translucent battery
casing.
2If the electrolyte level does drop below theminimum line, suspect a leak in the battery
casing or that the alternator is overcharging. If
the latter is the case, rectify the alternator fault
and then prise out the two rectangular plugs
from the top of the battery and top up with
distilled or purified water.
3Always keep the battery terminals clean
and smear them with petroleum jelly to
prevent corrosion.
4The battery will normally be kept fully
charged by the alternator, but it is possible for
the battery to become discharged if the daily
mileage is very low with much use being
made of the starter and electrical accessories.
5When the battery begins to deteriorate with
age it may also require a boost from a mains
charger.
6Disconnect both battery leads before
connecting the mains charger. 7To remove the battery from the car, first
disconnect the leads from the battery
terminals (earth first) and then unscrew the
securing clamp from the casing projection at
the base of the casing (photo).
8Lift the battery from its mounting platform.
Refitting is a reversal of removal. Reconnect
the earth cable last.
Fuses
Circuit protected Fuse rating (A)
1 Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, instrument panel warning
lamps, tachometer economy gauge, check control system . . . . . . 10
2 Windscreen wiper and washer, rear screen wiper/washer, check
system panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3 Left front parking, right rear tail lamp, cigar lighter illumination,
heater control and clock, digital clock illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
4 Right front parking lamp and left rear tail lamp, instrument panel
illumination and rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
5 Left-hand dipped headlamp, rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
6 Right-hand dipped headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7 Left-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
8 Right-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
9 Engine cooling fan and horn (Comfort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10 Heater booster fan, digital clock map reading lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
11 Heated tailgate glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
12 Courtesy lamps, cigar lighter, radio power feed, disc pad
sensors, economy gauge (ES models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
13 Hazard warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
14 Spare (Comfort), Horn (Super) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
BulbsWattage
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40/45 or Halogen H4 60/55
Front parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Side repeater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear foglamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Direction indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear number plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Courtesy lamp (roof) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Courtesy lamp (pillar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Warning and indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge base
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Alternator mounting and adjustment nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 87
Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
9•2 Electrical system
2.7 Battery clamp
If battery terminal corrosion
has occurred, it may be
neutralised by applying
sodium bicarbonate or
household ammonia.

3 Alternator-
maintenance and precautions
1
To avoid damage to the alternator, the
following precautions should be observed.
1Disconnect the leads from the battery
before connecting a mains charger to the
battery terminals.
2Never stop the engine by pulling off one of
the battery leads.
3Disconnect the battery if electric welding is
to be carried out on the vehicle.
4If using booster cables from another battery
to start the car, make sure that they are
connected positive to positive and negative to
negative.
5Maintenance consists of keeping the
outside of the alternator clean, the electrical
connections secure and the drivebelt correctly
tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.
4 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Depending on the model, access to the
alternator from above may be poor in which
case it will be necessary to work from the
underside of the vehicle, through the
right-hand wheel arch (after removing the
roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer
to Chapter 13 for details.
1Disconnect the leads from the rear of the
alternator.2Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts
and push the alternator as far as it will go in
towards the engine (photos).
3Slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts
and lift the alternator from the brackets on the
engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2,
Section 8.
5 Alternator- overhaul
3
1Overhaul of the alternator should be limited
to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has
covered a high mileage, it will be found moreeconomical to exchange it for a new or
factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew
worn components on the original unit.
Brush renewal
(Marelli alternator)
2Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover.
3Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw
the brush holder (photos).
4Fit the new brush holder which is supplied
complete with brushes, by reversing the
removal operations.
Brush renewal
(Bosch alternator)
5Where applicable, remove the radio
suppression condenser (capacitor) from the
rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a
plug-in connection).
6Undo the two screws which retain the brush
holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then
Electrical system 9•3
5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting
Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)
1 Pulley
2 Fan
3 Bolts
4 Washers
5 Drive-end bracket
6 Stator windings
7 Plate screw
8 Diode plate
(rectifier pack)9 Body
10 Brush
11 Spring
12 Brush holder
13 Condenser
14 Screws and
washers
15 Screws and
washers16 Screws and
washers
17 Plug socket
18 Suppressor
19 Shaft nut
20 Spring washer
21 Thrust ring
22 Bearing
23 Retainer plate24 Thrust ring
25 Spring washer
26 Screw and washer
27 Key
28 Rotor
29 Bearing
30 Backing washer
31 Shield (where
applicable)
5.3B Removing alternator brush holder
9

ease the holder out of the alternator. Inspect
the brushes and if worn below the specified
minimum length, they must be renewed.
7Disconnect the brush leads by unsoldering
or carefully cutting them.
8When soldering the new brush leads, do
not allow solder to run down them or their
flexibility will be ruined.
9When inspecting or renewing brushes,
check the surface of the slip rings. Clean them
with solvent or if they are very discoloured,
use very fine glasspaper.
6 Voltage regulator
1This is of integral type and is part of the
brushholder assembly.
2No provision is made for adjustment or
overhaul.
7 Starter motor-
description and testing
2
1The starter motor may be one of two
different makes. Both are of pre-engaged
type.
2This type of starter motor incorporates a
solenoid mounted on top of the starter motor
body. When the ignition switch is operated,
the solenoid moves the starter drive pinion,
through the medium of the shift lever, into
engagement with the flywheel starter ring
gear. As the solenoid reaches the end of its
stroke, and with the pinion by now partially
engaged with the flywheel ring gear, the main
fixed and moving contacts close and engage
the starter motor to rotate the engine.
3This pre-engagement of the starter drive
does much to reduce the wear on the flywheel
ring gear associated with inertia type starter
motors.
4If the starter fails, some fault-finding can be
done with it still on the car. Check the ignition
warning light comes on, and does not go out
when the starter is switched on. If it goes out,
the fault is probably in the battery. If it stays
bright, get an assistant to work the switch,whilst listening to the starter. Listen to find out
if the solenoid clicks into position. If it does
not, pull off the solenoid wire, and check it
with a test bulb. If the wire is live when the key
is turned, but the solenoid does not move,
take off the starter and remove it to the bench
for overhaul.
8 Starter motor-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the lead from the starter motor
(photo).
3Unscrew the fixing bolts and withdraw the
starter motor, downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models (photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
9 Starter motor- overhaul
3
1As with the alternator, the operations
should normally be limited to renewal of the
brushes. If the unit has covered a high
mileage it will usually be more economical to
purchase a new or factory-reconditioned one
rather than renew several components of the
original unit.
2Owing to the possibility that a fault can
develop in the starter motor solenoid or drive
assembly, full dismantling procedures are
given later in this Section.
Brush - renewal
3Slide off the cover band.
4Using a hooked piece of wire, pull up the
springs so that the brushes can be withdrawn
and their lengths checked for wear. If they
have worn below the specified minimum
length, renew them by extracting the brush
lead connecting screws (photo).
Solenoid
5Disconnect the field connecting wire from
the solenoid.
6Unscrew the bolts which hold the solenoid
to the end-frame.
7Unscrew the yoke tie-rod nuts.
9•4 Electrical system
9.4 Starter motor brush partly withdrawn
8.2 Starter motor connections8.3 Removing starter motor
Fig. 9.2 Exploded view of typical starter motor (Sec 9)
1 Armature
2 Drive pinion/clutch3 Drive end bracket
4 Shift lever5 Solenoid
6 Brush endplate7 Brush
8 Field windings
Gripping the brush leads with
a pair of pliers to act as a
heat sink will prevent heat
transfer to the internal
components of the alternator.

8Withdraw the solenoid and yoke off the
armature and from the drive end bracket.
Note the steel and fibre washers and the
shims on the armature shaft (photo).
9Extract the split pin and tap out the
engagement lever pivot pin.
10Pull the rubber packing piece from the
drive end bracket.
11Withdraw the armature with solenoid
plunger, coil spring and engagement lever.
12Clean the commutator with a fuel soaked
rag or very fine glass paper. Do not undercut
the mica insulators on the commutator.
Drive
13To remove the drive assembly from the
armature shaft, use a piece of tubing to tap
the stop collar down the shaft to expose the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and stop
collar and slide the drive assembly from the
shaft.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new snap ring to secure the drive to the
armature shaft.
10 Fuses and relays
1
1The fuse box is located under the left-hand
side of the facia panel and is held in place by
two hand screws (photo).2The fuses and the circuits protected are
identified by symbols. Refer also to Specifi-
cations.
3If a fuse blows, always renew it with one of
identical rating. If the new fuse blows
immediately, find the cause before renewing
the fuse for the second time. This is usually
due to defective wiring insulation causing a
short circuit.
4Never substitute a piece of wire or other
makeshift device for a proper fuse.
5Various relays are plugged into the fuse
block and include those for the heated rear
screen, heater and horns.
6On cars fitted with power-operated front
windows and centralised door locking, the
fuses and relays for these circuits are
mounted separately under the right-hand side
of the facia panel.
7The relay (flasher unit) for the direction
indicators and hazard warning lamps is
located on the lower part of the
steering column combination switch and
is accessible after removing the column
shroud.
11 Steering column
combination switch
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column shrouds. 3The switch can be removed without
having to take off the steering wheel, but for
clarity, the photographs show the wheel
removed.
4Unscrew the switch clamp nuts, disconnect
the wiring plug and remove the switch from
the steering column (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the activating projections on the
steering wheel hub engage correctly with the
switches.
12 Courtesy lamp switch
1
1These are located in and secured to the
body pillars with a single screw (photo).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Extract the switch screw and withdraw the
switch.
4If the leads are to be disconnected, tape
them to the pillar to prevent them from
slipping inside.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply
petroleum jelly to the switch contacts to
prevent corrosion.
13 Rocker and push-button
switches
1
1These are mounted in panels on each side
of the instrument panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Prise off the instrument panel hood cover.
This is held in place by clips. The careful use
of a screwdriver will assist in releasing them
(see Section 21).
4Extract the switch panel fixing screws.
These compress spring clips which in turn
secure the switch panel (photo).
5Withdraw the switch panel until the wiring
plugs can be disconnected. Record the
location of the plugs before disconnecting
Electrical system 9•5
11.4 Unscrewing steering column switch
clamp nut
1 Direction indicator flasher unit (relay)10.1 Fuse block (later models)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated tailgate window relay9.8 Starter motor dismantled
13.4 Switch panel screw12.1 Courtesy lamp switch
9