ECO mode FIAT UNO 1983 Service Workshop Manual

crankshaft after the pulley securing nut has
been removed. Recover the Woodruff key
from the end of the crankshaft if it is loose
(photo).
44To remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
sprocket stationary as the securing bolt is
loosened (the bolt is extremely tight). In the
workshop, a “scissors” style tool was
improvised, using two pieces of steel bar
joined together by a pivot bolt, with their ends
bent through a right-angle to engage securely
between the teeth on the sprocket - see photo
7B.46.
45Unscrew the sprocket bolt, and recover
the washer, then withdraw the sprocket from
the end of the auxiliary shaft (photo). If thesprocket is tight, carefully lever it from the
shaft using two screwdrivers.
46Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, making
sure that the lug on the end of the shaft
engages with the hole in the sprocket, then
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque (ensure that the washer is in place
under the bolt head). Prevent the sprocket
from turning as during removal (photo).
47Where applicable, refit the Woodruff key
to the end of the crankshaft, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket with the flanged side
against the oil seal housing (photo).
48Refit the camshaft sprocket to the end of
the camshaft, making sure that the lug on the
end of the shaft engages with the hole in the
sprocket, then refit the thrust washer, plainwasher, and bolt, and tighten the bolt to the
specified torque. Prevent the camshaft from
turning as during removal (photo).
49Refit the belt tensioner pulley assembly,
ensuring that the washer is in place under the
securing nut, but do not fully tighten the nut at
this stage.
50Before refitting the new timing belt into
position, first ensure that the crankshaft and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 30 (photo).
51If the new timing belt has two timing marks
on its outer face they must align with the
corresponding marks on the crankshaft and
camshaft sprockets. Do not distort or bend the
belt any more than is necessary during its
fitting or its structural fibres may be damaged.
52Refit the belt around the sprockets and
the tensioner pulley, starting at the crankshaft
sprocket. One of the timing index marks must
align with the scribed mark on the lower edge
of the crankshaft sprocket (opposite the
Woodruff key) whilst the second mark must
align with the timing marks of the camshaft
and rear timing belt cover (photos).
53With the belt fitted over the sprockets and
correctly aligned, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley nut (tightening it to its full
torque wrench setting) and then adjust the
timing belt tension.
Approximate setting
54The timing belt tension can be checked
approximately by twisting it between the
13•40 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.52B Timing belt mark aligned with
scribed mark on crankshaft sprocket
(arrowed)7B.52A Timing belt refitted over the
sprockets and tensioner7B.50 Crankshaft at TDC with key and
timing mark aligned (arrowed)
7B.48 Tightening the crankshaft sprocket
bolt7B.47 Refitting the crankshaft sprocket
7B.46 Tightening the auxiliary shaft
sprocket bolt7B.45 Withdrawing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket7B.43 Remove the crankshaft Woodruff
key if it is loose

79Recover the gasket.
80Removal of the camshaft from the
housing, and inspection of the components is
described in the following sub-Section.
81Commence refitting by cleaning the
gasket mating surfaces of the camshaft
housing and cylinder head.
82Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head,
making sure that it is correctly positioned over
the dowels (photo).
83Ensure that the cam followers are
correctly located over their relevant valves.
84Liberally oil the cam follower bores in the
camshaft housing, then carefully lower the
housing over the cam followers, and onto the
cylinder head (photo). Some manipulation will
be required to engage the cam followers with
their relevant bores in the camshaft housing.85Loosely refit all the camshaft housing
securing bolts, ensuring that the washers are
in place under their heads, then tighten them
progressively to the specified torque, starting
at the centre of the housing and working
outwards in a spiral pattern (photo).
86Refit the upper section of the rear timing
belt cover.
87Refit the camshaft sprocket and the
timing belt as described previously in this
Section.
88Check the valve clearances as described
earlier in this Section.
89Refit the camshaft cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing nuts,
ensuring that the washers are in place
(photos). Where applicable, ensure that the
hose clip is in place before refitting therelevant camshaft cover securing nuts.
90The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of that given for removal.
Camshaft, housing and followers
- dismantling, inspection
and reassembly
#
91With the camshaft housing removed from
the cylinder head as previously described
proceed as follows.
92Unscrew the three securing bolts, and
withdraw the blanking plate from the end of
the camshaft housing. Recover the gasket.
93The camshaft can now be carefully
withdrawn from the blanking plate/distributor
end of the camshaft housing, taking care not
to damage the bearing journals (photo).
94With the camshaft removed, examine the
bearings in the camshaft housing, and the
cam follower bores for signs of obvious wear
or pitting. If evident, a new camshaft housing
will probably be required.
95The camshaft itself should show no signs
of marks or scoring on the journal or cam lobe
surfaces. If evident, renew the camshaft.
96Examine the cam followers for signs of
obvious wear, and for ovality, and renew if
necessary.
97It is advisable to renew the camshaft front
oil seal as a matter of course if the camshaft
has been removed. Prise out the old seal
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
until it is flush with the housing, using a
suitable socket or tube (photos).
13•42 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.97B Inserting the new camshaft front
oil seal7B.97A Prising out the camshaft front oil
seal7B.93 Withdrawing the camshaft from its
housing
7B.89B . . . and refit the camshaft cover7B.89A Locate a new gasket on the
camshaft housing . . .
7B.85 Tightening a camshaft housing
securing bolt7B.84 Lowering the camshaft housing on
to the cylinder head7B.82 Locating a new camshaft housing
gasket on the cylinder head

98Commence reassembly by liberally oiling
the bearings in the housing, and the oil seal lip.
99Carefully insert the camshaft into the
housing from the blanking plate/distributor
end, taking care to avoid damage to the
bearings.
100Refit the blanking plate using a new
gasket.
101Refit the camshaft housing as described
previously in this Section.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc ie engine) -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The following instructions describe
cylinder head removal and refitting leaving the
camshaft, manifolds and associated items in situ
In the head. If required, these items can be
removed separately. When removing the
cylinder head the engine must be cold - do not
remove the head from a hot engine. A new
cylinder head gasket and any associated gaskets
must be used during reassembly. FIAT specify
that the main cylinder head bolts should be
renewed after they have been used (ie tightened)
four times. If in any doubt as to the number of
times that they have been used renew them as a
precaution against possible failure.
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
102Depressurise the fuel supply system as
described in Section 9 of this Chapter.
103Disconnect the battery negative lead.
104Drain the engine coolant as described in
Section 8.
105Remove the air cleaner unit as described
in Section 9.
106Remove the timing belt as described
previously in this Section.107Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
hose from the cylinder head and the SPi
injector unit.
108Disconnect the accelerator cable at the
engine end.
109Detach the engine idle speed check
actuator lead, the inlet manifold vacuum
sensor lead, the coolant temperature sensor
lead, the injector supply lead, the throttle
position switch lead and the distributor cap
(with HT leads). Position them out of the way.
110Disconnect the brake servo hose from
the manifold.
111Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat and the inlet manifold.
112Slowly release the fuel supply and return
hose retaining clips and detach the hoses
from the injector unit housing and
connections. Catch any fuel spillage in a clean
cloth and plug the hoses to prevent the
ingress of dirt and further fuel loss.
113Unbolt and detach the exhaust downpipe
from the manifold.
114Loosen off the cylinder head retaining
bolts in a progressive manner, reversing the
sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. When all of the
bolts are loosened off, extract them and
collect the washers.
115Check that all fittings and associated
attachments are clear of the cylinder head,
then carefully lift the head from the cylinder
block. If necessary tap the head lightly with a
soft-faced mallet to free it from the block, but
do not lever it free between the joint faces.
Note that the cylinder head is located on
dowels.116Recover the old cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
117Clean the cylinder head and block mating
surfaces by careful scraping. Take care not to
damage the cylinder head - it is manufactured in
light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the coolant
passages and other openings to prevent dirt and
carbon from falling into them. Mop out all the oil
from the cylinder head bolt holes - if oil is left in
them, hydraulic pressure, caused when the bolts
are refitted, could cause the block to crack.
118If required the cylinder head can be
dismantled and overhauled as described in
paragraphs 129 to 131 of this Section.
119The new gasket must be removed from
its protective packing just before it is fitted.
Do not allow any oil or grease to come into
contact with the gasket. Commence refitting
the cylinder head by locating the new gasket
on the cylinder block so that the word “ALTO”
is facing up (photo).
120With the mating faces scrupulously
clean, refit the cylinder head into position and
engage it over the dowels. Refer to the note at
the beginning of this part of the Section, then
refit the ten main cylinder head bolts and
washers. Screw each bolt in as far as possible
by hand to start with. Do not fit the smaller
(M8 x 1.25) bolts at this stage (photos).
121The bolts must now be tightened in stages
and in the sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. Refer
to the specified torque wrench settings and
tighten all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then
using a suitable angle gauge, tighten them to
the second stage, then the third stage (photos).
122With the main cylinder head bolts fully
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•43
7B.120B . . . and engage the positioning
dowels in their holes7B.120A Lower the cylinder head onto the
block . . .7B.119 Locating a new cylinder head
gasket on the cylinder block (engine
shown on dismantling stand)
7B.121A Tighten main cylinder head bolts
to specified torque . . .Fig. 13.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13
7B.121B . . . and then through the specified
angle

tightened, refit the five smaller (M8 x 1.25)
bolts adjacent to the line of the spark plug
holes and tighten them to their specified
torque wrench setting (photo).
123Reconnect the associated fittings to the
cylinder head in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the mating faces of the exhaust
manifold-to-downpipe are clean and fit a new
gasket when reconnecting.
124Ensure that all wiring connections are
cleanly and securely made.
125Top up the engine oil and coolant levels
as required on completion.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc Turbo ie engine)
- removal and refitting
#
126Proceed as described in paragraphs 102
to 125 above for the non-Turbo model, but
note the following differences.127The cylinder head cannot be removed
and refitted with the manifolds and
turbocharger fitted. It is therefore first
necessary to detach and remove the inlet
manifold, then the turbocharger and the
exhaust manifold as described in Section 9.
128The ignition distributor is mounted on the
side of the engine, not the rear end of the
cylinder head as on the “ie” engine. It is
therefore only necessary to disconnect the HT
leads from the spark plugs.
Cylinder head - inspection
and renovation¢
Note: Refer to a dealer for advice before
attempting to carry out valve grinding or seat
recutting operations. These operations may
not be possible for the DIY mechanic due to
the fitment of hardened valve seats for use
with unleaded petrol.129Use a straight-edge to check the cylinder
head gasket surface for distortion. If it
exceeds the specified tolerance, it must be
resurfaced by a FIAT dealer or automotive
engineer.
130Refer to Section 39 in Chapter 1 for the
general details on dismantling and renovating
operations on the cylinder head but note that
there is a spring seat and a flat washer fitted
between the cylinder head and the valve
springs (photos).
Crankshaft front oil seal -
removal and renewal#
131Remove the timing belt as described
earlier in this Section. Note that as mentioned
previously, the timing belt will need to be
renewed during reassembly.
132Referring to Fig. 13.18, loosen off the bolt
indicated from the timing belt rear cover.
13•44 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.130H . . . the outer spring . . .7B.130G . . . the inner spring . . .7B130F . . . locate the spring seat . . .
7B.130E Refit the flat washer . . .7B.130D . . . and drive it into position7B.130C . . . locate stem oil seal . . .
7B.130B Valve assembly - 1372 cc engine;
insert valve into guide . . .7B.130A Inlet (A) and exhaust (B) valves
and associate components - 1372 cc
engine7B.122 Tighten the smaller cylinder head
bolts to their specified torque setting

133Drain the engine oil from the sump into a
suitable container. Disconnect the lead from
the engine oil level sensor in the sump.
134Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the bolts retaining the gear linkage mounting
bracket and the clutch housing lower cover
bolts. Remove the cover from the clutch
housing.
135Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts, then lower and remove the sump.
136Unscrew the timing belt rear cover
retaining bolts.
137Move the timing belt rear cover towards
the front of the car to gain access to the
retaining bolt and then unscrew and remove
the three oil seal housing retaining bolts.
Remove the crankshaft front oil seal housing.
138Note the orientation of the seal in its
housing prior to its removal. Support the
underside of the housing and carefully drive
the old oil seal from the housing using a
punch or a tubular drift of suitable diameter.
An alternative method is to punch or drill a
small hole in the face of the oil seal (but take
care not to drill into the housing) and insert a
self-tapping screw into the seal. Withdraw the
seal by gripping the screw with pliers and
pulling the seal from the housing. If necessary,
fit a second screw into the seal on the
opposite side to provide an even pull.
139Clean the mating faces of the housing
and the front of the crankcase using a suitable
scraper.
140Drive or press the new seal into positionin the housing in the reverse order of removal,
but ensure that it is correctly orientated as
noted during removal (photo).
141Refit the oil seal housing with a new
gasket and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting (photos).
142Refit the sump as described later in this
Section using a new gasket. Tighten its
retaining nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the clutch cover and the gear
linkage mounting bracket.
143Fit the new timing belt, adjust its tension
and refit the crankshaft pulley as described
earlier in this Section.
144Reconnect the remaining components
that were detached during removal in the
reverse order and top up the engine oil level to
complete.
Crankshaft rear oil seal -
removal and renewal#
145If the engine is still in the car, disconnect
the battery negative lead.
146Remove the flywheel as described in the
next sub-Section.
147Punch or drill a small hole in the rear face
of the rear oil seal (but take care not to drill
into the housing) and insert a self-tapping
screw into the seal. Withdraw the seal by
gripping the screw with pliers and pulling it
from the housing. If necessary, fit a second
screw into the seal on the opposite side to
provide an even pull.
148Clean the seal housing, then locate the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•45
Fig. 13.18 Timing belt rear cover bolt
(arrowed) - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)7B.130J Compress spring and refit the split
collets7B.130I . . . and cap
7B.140 Driving a new crankshaft front oil
seal into its housing7B.141B . . . ensuring it is flush with the
face of the cylinder block7B.141A Refit the crankshaft front oil seal
housing . . .
Fig. 13.20 Removing the timing belt rear
cover on the 1372 ie and Turbo ie engines
(Sec 7B)
Fig. 13.19 Unscrew the bolts at the points
indicated to release the gear linkage
mounting bracket - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13

new oil seal, ensuring that it is correctly
orientated, and drive it squarely into position.
149Refit all disturbed components.
Flywheel - removal,
inspection and refitting#
150If not already done, remove the clutch as
described in Chapter 5.
151Prevent the flywheel from turning by
jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel and the cylinder
block.
152Make alignment marks on the flywheel
and the end of the crankshaft, so that the
flywheel can be refitted in its original position.
153Unscrew the securing bolts and remove
the washer plate, then withdraw the flywheel.
Do not drop it, it is very heavy.
154With the flywheel removed, the ring gear
can be examined for wear and damage.
155If the ring gear is badly worn or has
missing teeth it should be renewed. The old
ring gear can be removed from the flywheel by
cutting a notch between two teeth with a
hacksaw and then splitting it with a cold
chisel. Wear eye protection when doing this.
156Fitting of a new ring gear requires heating
the ring to a temperature of 80ºC (176ºF). Do
not overheat, or the hard-wearing properties
will be lost. The gear has a chamfered inner
edge which should fit against the shoulder on
the flywheel. When hot enough, place the gear
in position quickly, tapping it home ifnecessary, and let it cool naturally without
quenching in any way.
157Ensure that the mating faces are clean,
then locate the flywheel on the rear of the
crankshaft, aligning the previously made
marks on the flywheel and crankshaft.
158Fit the washer plate, and insert the
securing bolts, then prevent the flywheel from
turning as described in paragraph 151 whilst
the bolts are tightened progressively to the
specified torque setting in a diagonal
sequence (photos).
159If applicable, refit the clutch as described
in Chapter 5.
Sump -
removal and refittingÁ
160Drain the engine oil from the sump as
described in Chapter 1.
161Disconnect the lead from the engine oil
level sensor in the sump.
162Unscrew and remove the bolts retaining the
gear linkage mounting bracket (where applicable)
and the clutch housing lower cover bolts.
Remove the cover from the clutch housing.
163Unscrew and remove the sump retaining
bolts and nuts and lower the sump from the
crankcase. Recover the gasket.
164Clean all traces of old gasket from the
sump, crankcase and both oil seal housing
mating surfaces.
165Commence reassembly by applying
sealing compound (FIAT No. 5882442 orequivalent) to the joints between the
crankshaft front and rear oil seal housings and
the mating face of the crankcase (photo).
166Locate the new gasket in position on the
crankcase then fit the sump. As it is fitted it
will need to be twisted to avoid fouling the oil
pump unit. Refit the retaining bolts and nuts
and tighten them to the specified torque
(photos).
167Check that the sump drain plug is refitted
and fully tightened. If the engine is in the car,
top up the engine oil level.
Oil pump - removal,
checking and refittingª
168Drain the engine oil and remove the
sump as described in the previous
sub-Section.
169Unscrew the retaining bolts then
withdraw the oil pump and intake pipe/filter
from its location within the crankcase.
Remove the gasket.
170If oil pump wear is suspected, first check
the cost and availability of new parts and the
cost of a new pump. Then examine the pump
as described below and decide whether
renewal or repair is the best course of action.
171Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (photo). Note that
as the cover is removed, the oil pressure relief
valve components will be released.
172Recover the oil pressure relief valve,
spring and spring seat.
13•46 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.166C . . . and insert the retaining bolts7B.166B . . . refit the sump . . .7B.166A Locate the new gasket . . .
7B.165 Apply sealant to the front oil seal
housing/cylinder block joint7B.158B . . . tighten the bolts to the
specified torque7B.158A Locate the flywheel, washer plate
and bolts . . .

necessary renovated as described later in this
Section.
191Commence refitting as follows.
192Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and
big-end caps.
193Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine
oil.
194Fit a ring compressor to No. 1 piston, theninsert the piston and connecting rod into No. 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest point,
drive the piston carefully into the cylinder with
the wooden handle of a hammer (photos).
Leave enough space between the connecting
rod and the crankshaft to allow the bearing
shell to be fitted. The piston must be fitted with
the cut-out in the piston crown on the auxiliary
shaft side of the engine, and the cylinder identi-
fication marking on the connecting rod and
big-end cap on the coolant pump side of the
engine - see Fig. 13.21.
195Slide the appropriate bearing shell into
position in the connecting rod big-end, then
pull the connecting rod firmly into position on
the crankpin (photo).
196Press the appropriate bearing shell into
position in the big-end cap (photo).
197Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
bearing cap with the cylinder identification
marking on the coolant pump side of the
engine, and tighten the nuts to the specified
torque setting (photos).
198Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
199Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 194
to 198 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
200Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
Pistons/connecting rods -
examination and
renovation
#
201The procedures for inspecting and
renovating the pistons and connecting rod
assemblies are in general the same as thatdescribed for the smaller engines in Sec-
tion 18 of Chapter 1. However, the following
additional points should be noted.
202When renewing a gudgeon pin, first
check the fit in the piston. It should be
possible to fit the gudgeon pin using hand
pressure, but the pin should be a tight enough
fit that it does not drop out under its own
weight. Oversize gudgeon pins are available
as spares if necessary. Use new circlips when
refitting the pistons to the connecting rods.
203Before fitting the pistons to their
connecting rods, weigh each piston and
check that their weights are all within 2.5 g of
each other. If not, the heavier pistons must be
lightened by machining metal from the
underside of the small-end bosses. This
operation must be entrusted to a FIAT dealer
or engine reconditioning specialist.
204The pistons should be fitted to the
connecting rods so that the higher, flat side of
the piston crown is on the side of the
connecting rod with the stamped cylinder
identification number, ie the gudgeon pin is
offset towards the cylinder identification
number see Fig. 13.21.
205The piston rings should be fitted with the
word “TOP” on each ring facing uppermost,
or if no marks are visible, as noted during
removal. If a stepped top compression ring is
being fitted, fit the ring with the smaller
diameter of the step uppermost. The ring end
gaps should be offset 120º from each other.
Use two or three old feeler gauges to assist
13•48 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.197B . . . and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque
Fig. 13.21 Correct orientation of piston
and connecting rod in engine - 1372 cc ie
and Turbo ie engines (Sec 7B)
1 Auxiliary shaft
2 Cylinder identification markings on
connecting rod and big-end cap
Arrow denotes direction of engine rotation
Note offset gudgeon pin
7B.197A . . . then fit the cap . . .7B.196 . . . and big-end bearing cap . . .
7B.195 Assemble the shell bearing to the
connecting rod . . .7B.194B Tapping a piston into its bore7B.194A Fitting a ring compressor to a
piston

fitting, as during removal. Note that the
compression rings are brittle, and will snap if
expanded too far.
206If new pistons are to be fitted, they must
be selected from the grades available, after
measuring the cylinder bores. Normally, the
appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by
the dealer when the block is rebored.
207Whenever new piston rings are being
installed, the glaze on the original cylinder
bores should be removed using either
abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an
electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use
strokes at 60º to the bore centre-line, to
create a cross-hatching effect.
Engine/transmission
mountings - renewalÁ
208The engine/gearbox assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the gearbox, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
209Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
210Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the engine in order to support it as
the engine mounting is removed. No lifting
brackets are provided, so care must be taken
when deciding on an engine lifting point. In the
workshop, a right-angled bracket was made up
by bending a suitable piece of steel plate. The
bracket was then bolted to the engine using the
rear right-hand camshaft housing securing bolt
with suitable packing washers.
211Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the engine and just take the weight of the
assembly.
212Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly.
213Unscrew the nut and through-bolt,
counter holding the bolt with a second
spanner or socket, and separate the mounting
from the bracket.
214Fit the new mounting to the bracket, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque, while
counterholding the through-bolt using a
suitable spanner or socket.
215Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
216Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
217Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine, and remove the engine lifting bracket.
218Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mountings
219Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
220Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the gearbox lifting bracket inorder to support the weight of the assembly
as the mounting is removed.
221Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the gearbox, and just take the weight of the
assembly.
222Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting bracket from the gearbox, and
unbolt the mounting from the body, then
withdraw the bracket/mounting assembly.
223Proceed as described in paragraphs 213
and 214.
224Refit the mounting bracket to the
gearbox, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
225Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
226Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine.
227Lower the vehicle to the ground.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine (complete with transmission) is
disconnected and lowered downwards
through the engine compartment, then
withdrawn from the front underside of the car.
1372 cc engine/
transmission - removal
and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Depressurize the fuel system as described
in Section 9 of this Chapter.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet, then with the aid of
an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts and lift
the bonnet clear of the car. Store the bonnet
in a safe area.
5Drain the engine coolant.
6Drain the engine and transmission oils.
7Disconnect and remove the air filter.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
engine, including the hose to the inlet
manifold.
9Detach the ignition coil (HT) lead from the
distributor.10Compress the retaining clip and detach
the engine idle speed actuator lead from the
SPi unit (photo).
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from its connector on the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the throttle cable from the SPi
unit.
13Disconnect the engine speed sensor lead.
14Release and detach the reversing light
lead from the switch on the transmission
(photo).
15Before disconnecting the hydraulic hose
from the clutch slave cylinder, remove the
filler cap from the reservoir and place a piece
of polythene sheet over the filler neck, then
refit the cap; this will help prevent excess fluid
loss. Once disconnected, plug the hose and
its cylinder connection to prevent the ingress
of dirt into the hydraulic system.
16Disconnect the wiring connector from the
alternator.
17Position a clean rag under the fuel supply
and return hose connections to the SPi unit,
then slowly unscrew the hose clips to release
the system pressure; catch fuel leakage in the
rag and dispose of it safely. Detach the hoses
and plug them to prevent ingress of dirt and
any further fuel leakage. Position the hoses
out of the way.
18Detach the wiring connector from the
engine coolant temperature sender unit
(photo).
19Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the throttle position
switch. Also detach the associated earth
leads from the cylinder head.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•49
7C.14 Reversing light switch and lead7C.18 Engine coolant temperature sender
and wiring connector
7C.10 Engine idle speed actuator/SPi unit
lead connection (arrowed)
13

fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission and positioned out of the way.
Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady
and guide the power unit down through the
engine compartment as it is removed, If
available, position a suitable engine trolley or
crawler board under the engine/transmission
so that when lowered, the power unit can be
withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle
and moved to the area where it is to be
cleaned and dismantled.
38Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
withdraw the power unit from under the
vehicle.
39To separate the engine from the
transmission, unbolt and remove the starter
motor, then unscrew the retaining bolts and
withdraw the transmission from the engine. As
it is withdrawn, do not allow the weight of the
engine or transmission to be taken by the
input shaft.
40To remove the clutch unit, refer to
Chapter 5 for details.
1372 cc Turbo ie
engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
41The engine and transmission removal and
refitting details for Turbo-engined models are
similar to those described for the non-Turbo
models in the previous sub-Section, but the
following differences should be noted.
42To provide access for the disconnection
of the turbo and related components, first
remove the inlet manifold. Removal of the inlet
manifold and the turbocharger is described in
Section 9 of this Chapter.
43The ignition distributor on the Turbo
engine is driven from the auxiliary shaft and is
mounted at the front of the engine, towards
the timing cover end.
44The right-hand driveshaft has a steady
bearing and this will need to be unbolted and
detached.
Engine dismantling - general
45Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14 for details.
Auxiliary shaft - removal,
inspection and refitting #
46Remove the engine and transmission from
the vehicle as described previously in this
Section part.
47Drain the engine oil and remove the sump
as described in Part B of this Section.
48Remove the oil pump as described in Part
B of this Section.
49Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket as described in Part B of this
Section.
50Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the auxiliary shaft cover. Remove the
gasket.
51Withdraw the auxiliary shaft from the
cylinder block.
52Examine the shaft and its bearing bushes
in the cylinder block for signs of excessive
wear and/or damage and renew it if
necessary. Bush renewal is described in
paragraph 79 in this Section.
53The cover gasket and the oil seal should
always be renewed whenever the cover is
removed. To renew the seal, support the
cover on blocks of wood and drive out the old
seal using a suitable drift inserted in the
cut-out in the back of the cover. Clean the
seal location in the housing. Drive the new
seal into place using a suitable metal tube or
socket (photo). The sealing lip must face
towards the cylinder block. Smear the sealing
lips with clean engine oil before installation.
54Commence refitting by lubricating theauxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
then insert the shaft into the cylinder block
(photo).
55Refit the auxiliary shaft cover, using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts
(photos).
56Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, timing
belt, cover and crankshaft pulley as described
in Part B of this Section.
57Refit the engine and transmission with
reference to Part D of this Section.
Engine -
complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
58Detach and remove the following ancillary
items. Where applicable, refer to the
appropriate Chapter or Section within this
Chapter for more detailed removal instructions.
Engine oil dipstick
Ignition distributor and HT leads
Fuel pump
Alternator
Oil filter
Oil vapour recovery unit
Inlet and exhaust manifolds and associated
fuel injection components (as applicable)
Clutch unit
59Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the timing cover and drivebelt.
60Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the cylinder head unit.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•51
7C.54 Inserting the auxiliary shaft into the
cylinder block (rear timing belt cover
removed)7C.53 Driving a new oil seal into the
auxiliary shaft cover7C.36C Transmission front mounting
7C.55B . . . and tighten the securing bolts7C.55A Refit the auxiliary shaft cover with
a new gasket . . .
13

61Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the flywheel.
62Refer to the previous sub-Section for
details and remove the auxiliary shaft.
63Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the sump.
64Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the oil pump unit.
65Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the front and rear crankshaft oil
seals.
66Refer to Part B of this Section and remove
the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
67Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the crankshaft and main bearing
assemblies.
Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal#
68Unscrew the securing bolts and remove
the front and rear crankshaft oil seal housings.
Recover the gaskets.
69Check the main bearing caps for identifi-
cation marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them. Normally the
caps have identifying notches cut into their
top face nearest the timing belt end of the
engine, with the exception of No 5 cap
(flywheel end) which has no marking (photo).
70Before removing the crankshaft, check
that the endfloat is within the specified limits.
Ideally a dial gauge should be used, but
alternatively feeler gauges can be used as
follows. Push the crankshaft as far as possible
towards the timing end of the engine, and
using a feeler gauge, measure the gap
between the rear face of the flywheel
mounting flange on the crankshaft and the
outer face of the thrust washer (photo). Now
push the crankshaft as far as possible in the
opposite direction and take the same
measurement again. The difference between
the two measurements is the crankshaft
endfloat. If the endfloat is outside the
specified limits, new thrustwashers will be
required.
71Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells. If
the bearing shells are to be re-used, tape
them to their respective caps.
72Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
73Extract the bearing shells from thecrankcase, keeping them identified for
location if they are to be re-used, and recover
the thrust washers from No. 5 main bearing
location.
Engine components -
examination and
renovation
#
74With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described elsewhere in this Section. Renew
main and big-end bearing shells as a matter of
course, unless it is known that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
75If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should the component fail at an early
date. Obviously the age and expected life of
the vehicle must influence the standards
applied.
76Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of course. FIAT specify
that the main cylinder head bolts should be
renewed after they have been used (ie
tightened) four times - if in any doubt as to the
number of times the bolts have been used,
renew them in any case as a precaution
against possible failure.
77Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smearthe new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.
78Clean and examine the cylinder block as
described in paragraphs 2 to 7 of Section 18,
Chapter 1.
79If the auxiliary shaft bushes are
excessively worn or are oval, they must be
renewed. When the new bushes are installed,
they may need to be reamed to suit. The
renewal of the auxiliary shaft bushes is
therefore best entrusted to an engine
reconditioner or FIAT dealer. When the
bushes are renewed, ensure that the oil hole
in each bush is aligned with the oil channel in
the cylinder block.
PART D: ENGINE
REASSEMBLY
Reassembly - general
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 19.
Crankshaft and main
bearings - refitting#
2Ensure that the crankcase and crankshaft
are thoroughly clean, and that the oilways are
clear. If possible, blow through the oil drillings
with compressed air, and inject clean engine
oil into them.
3Unless they are virtually new, the old main
bearing shells should be renewed. Failure to
do so is a false economy.
4If new bearing shells are being fitted, wipe
away all traces of protective grease.
5Note that there is a tag on the back of each
bearing shell, which engages with a groove in
the relevant seat in the crankcase or bearing
cap.
6Wipe clean the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a non-fluffy rag, then lubricate
them and fit the five upper halves of the
bearing shells to their seats. Note that the
centre (No. 3) bearing shell is plain, whereas
all the other shells have oil grooves (photos).
7Fit the thrustwashers to the No. 5 main
bearing shell location, with the grooved side
of each washer facing away from the face of
the cylinder block - ie towards the thrust face
of the crankshaft (photos).
8Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
13•52 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7D.6B . . . all others have oil groove7D.6A No. 3 main bearing shell is plain . . .
7C.70 Measuring crankshaft endfloat using
feeler gauge method7C.69 Identification notches on No. 3 main
bearing cap