bonnet FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
5 Major body damage-
repair
5
1Major repair to the body should be left to
your Fiat dealer or specialist body repairer.
2Special jigs and alignment gauges are
required without which steering and
suspension characteristics may be incorrect
after the repairs are completed.
6 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet.
2Extract the single fixing screw from the
centre of the grille slats (photo).
3Release the retaining clips and withdraw
the grille upwards from its lower spigot holes
(photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Bonnet-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2Pencil around the hinges on the underside
Bodywork 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes
6.3 Grille clip6.2 Grille screw

9.1A Front bumper upper fixing screw
of the bonnet or stick strips of masking tape
around them as a guide to refitting (photo).
3With the help of an assistant, support the
weight of the bonnet, unbolt the hinges and
lift the bonnet from the car.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge bolts until the bonnet
has been gently closed and its alignment
checked. If the gap between the bonnet and
the front wings is not equal on both sides,
release the hinge bolts and move the bonnet
within the elongation provided at the bolt
holes.8 Bonnet lock and release
1
1The bonnet lock is operated by a remote
control lever inside the car through a cable
(photo).
2When closing the bonnet, the spring-loaded
striker should enter the lock centrally. If it
does not, release the lock bolts and slide the
lock as necessary (photo).3Engagement of the striker in the lock should
be adjusted for depth in order that the surface
of the bonnet is level with the front wings. To
do this, release the striker locknut and turn the
striker in or out by inserting a screwdriver in
its slot.
4In conjunction with the striker adjustment,
screw the bonnet rubber buffers in or out as
necessary to provide secure rattle-free
closure of the bonnet (photo).
5If the lock must be removed, first withdraw
the radiator grille as described in Section 6.
6To renew the release cable, unclip and
lower the release lever under the facia panel.
7Disconnect the cable from the lever and
then slip it from the lock operating arm.
Withdraw the cable.
8Refit the new cable by reversing the
removal operations.
9 Front bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the radiator grille as described in
Section 6 to expose the two upper bumper
fixing screws. Remove them (photos).
2Working inside at the lower edge of the
bumper remove the three fixing bolts.
3Finally, unscrew the side bracket fixing
bolts and lift the bumper away.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12•4 Bodywork
Fig. 12.2 Adjusting bonnet lock striker
(Sec 8)
Fig. 12.1 Bonnet lock and release cable (Sec 8)
8.4 Bonnet buffer
8.2 Bonnet lock8.1 Bonnet release lever7.2 Bonnet hinge

10 Front wing-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the headlamp and front parking
lamp as described in Chapter 9. 2Withdraw the side repeater lamp and
disconnect the leads.
3Remove the front roadwheel.
4Working under the wing, remove the fixing
screw and withdraw the plastic protective
shield (photos).
5Unscrew the wing lower fixing screws at the
front and rear ends.
6Open the bonnet and support it. Then
unscrew and remove the row of fixing screws
from the inner top edge of the wing.
7The wing joints will have to be cut round
with a sharp knife to release the mastic seal
before the wing can be lifted away.
8Clean the body mating flanges in readiness
for fitting the new wing.
9Apply a bead of mastic to the body flanges
and offer the new wing into position.
10Refit the fixing screws.
11Apply protective coating to the underside
of the wing and refinish the outer surface to
match the bodywork. 12Refit the headlamp, parking lamp and
repeater lamp.
13Fit the under wing shield and the
roadwheel, close the bonnet.
11 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the door and extract the three
armrest fixing screws. Remove the armrest in
a downward direction (photos).
2Remove the screws from the door tidy bin
(photo).
3Push the door remote control escutcheon
rearwards towards the door lock and remove
it (photos).
4Remove the window regulator handle
spring clip. Do this by inserting a length of
wire with a hooked end or by pulling a strip of
Bodywork 12•5
Fig. 12.3 Front bumper (Sec 9)9.1B Front bumper upper fixing screw
11.1B Removing armrest downward11.1A Removing an armrest screw
10.4A Unscrewing wing shield screw
10.4B Removing wing shield
Fig. 12.4 Front bumper upper screws (Sec 9)Fig. 12.5 Front bumper lower screws (Sec 9)
12

99Tighten the big-end bolts to the specified
torque (photo). The correct torque is
important as the bolts have no locking
arrangement. After tightening each big-end,
check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
100Repeat the operations on the remaining
piston/rod assemblies.
101Refit the oil pump pick-up assembly
using a new sealing ring.
102Refit the sump pan and the cylinder head
as described in earlier sub-Sections.
103Fill the engine with oil and coolant.
Pistons/connecting rods -
separation and piston
ring renewal
ª
104If the piston/connecting rods have been
removed in order to renew the piston rings,
refer to Chapter 1, Section 18, but note thatthe piston rings should be fitted so that the
word TOP is uppermost.
105If new pistons are to be fitted, it is
recommended that the gudgeon pins are
removed and refitted by a FIAT dealer as the
connecting rods must be carefully heated in
order to be able to push the gudgeon pin out
of the rod small-end, change the piston and
push the pin back into position. Locating the
gudgeon pin will require a special tool. The
gudgeon pin is a sliding fit in the piston but an
interference fit in the connecting rod.
106Refer to Fig. 13.6 for the correct
assembly of the piston and connecting rod.
Engine/transmission mountings
- renewal
107Refer to Chapter 1, Section 33. Three
mountings are used (photos).
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine, complete with transmission,
should be removed upwards out of the engine
compartment.
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation #
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet and then, with the
help of an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts
and lift the bonnet to a safe storage area.
3Drain the coolant; a cylinder block drain
plug is not fitted.
4Drain the engine and transmission oils.
5Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
6Remove the air filter.
7Disconnect the radiator hoses from the
engine (photos).
13•26 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5C.7B Radiator hose at thermostat
housing5C.7A Radiator hose connection to coolant
distribution tube5B.107C Right-hand engine mounting
5B.107B Left-hand rear
engine/transmission mounting5B.107A Left-hand front
engine/transmission mounting
Fig. 13.6 Piston/connecting rod correctly
assembled - 999 and 1108 cc engine
(Sec 5B)
1 Piston grade (A) and directional arrow on
piston crown (towards timing belt)
2 Rod/cap matching numbers
3 Gudgeon pin offset in piston (0.9 to 1.1 mm)
Arrow indicates crankshaft rotation direction
Fig. 13.5 Piston ring arrangement on the
999 cc engine (Sec 5B)5B.99 Tightening a big-end cap bolt

fitting, as during removal. Note that the
compression rings are brittle, and will snap if
expanded too far.
206If new pistons are to be fitted, they must
be selected from the grades available, after
measuring the cylinder bores. Normally, the
appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by
the dealer when the block is rebored.
207Whenever new piston rings are being
installed, the glaze on the original cylinder
bores should be removed using either
abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an
electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use
strokes at 60º to the bore centre-line, to
create a cross-hatching effect.
Engine/transmission
mountings - renewalÁ
208The engine/gearbox assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the gearbox, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
209Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
210Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the engine in order to support it as
the engine mounting is removed. No lifting
brackets are provided, so care must be taken
when deciding on an engine lifting point. In the
workshop, a right-angled bracket was made up
by bending a suitable piece of steel plate. The
bracket was then bolted to the engine using the
rear right-hand camshaft housing securing bolt
with suitable packing washers.
211Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the engine and just take the weight of the
assembly.
212Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly.
213Unscrew the nut and through-bolt,
counter holding the bolt with a second
spanner or socket, and separate the mounting
from the bracket.
214Fit the new mounting to the bracket, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque, while
counterholding the through-bolt using a
suitable spanner or socket.
215Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
216Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
217Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine, and remove the engine lifting bracket.
218Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mountings
219Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
220Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the gearbox lifting bracket inorder to support the weight of the assembly
as the mounting is removed.
221Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the gearbox, and just take the weight of the
assembly.
222Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting bracket from the gearbox, and
unbolt the mounting from the body, then
withdraw the bracket/mounting assembly.
223Proceed as described in paragraphs 213
and 214.
224Refit the mounting bracket to the
gearbox, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
225Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
226Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine.
227Lower the vehicle to the ground.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine (complete with transmission) is
disconnected and lowered downwards
through the engine compartment, then
withdrawn from the front underside of the car.
1372 cc engine/
transmission - removal
and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Depressurize the fuel system as described
in Section 9 of this Chapter.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet, then with the aid of
an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts and lift
the bonnet clear of the car. Store the bonnet
in a safe area.
5Drain the engine coolant.
6Drain the engine and transmission oils.
7Disconnect and remove the air filter.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
engine, including the hose to the inlet
manifold.
9Detach the ignition coil (HT) lead from the
distributor.10Compress the retaining clip and detach
the engine idle speed actuator lead from the
SPi unit (photo).
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from its connector on the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the throttle cable from the SPi
unit.
13Disconnect the engine speed sensor lead.
14Release and detach the reversing light
lead from the switch on the transmission
(photo).
15Before disconnecting the hydraulic hose
from the clutch slave cylinder, remove the
filler cap from the reservoir and place a piece
of polythene sheet over the filler neck, then
refit the cap; this will help prevent excess fluid
loss. Once disconnected, plug the hose and
its cylinder connection to prevent the ingress
of dirt into the hydraulic system.
16Disconnect the wiring connector from the
alternator.
17Position a clean rag under the fuel supply
and return hose connections to the SPi unit,
then slowly unscrew the hose clips to release
the system pressure; catch fuel leakage in the
rag and dispose of it safely. Detach the hoses
and plug them to prevent ingress of dirt and
any further fuel leakage. Position the hoses
out of the way.
18Detach the wiring connector from the
engine coolant temperature sender unit
(photo).
19Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the throttle position
switch. Also detach the associated earth
leads from the cylinder head.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•49
7C.14 Reversing light switch and lead7C.18 Engine coolant temperature sender
and wiring connector
7C.10 Engine idle speed actuator/SPi unit
lead connection (arrowed)
13

require maintenance other than general
inspection for wear in the linkage joints. If
excessive wear is found in any of the joints, they
can be individually detached and renewed.
13Access to the control rods is eased by
detaching and lowering the exhaust system
from the exhaust manifold.
14If a new adjustable control rod is to be
fitted, remove the original rod as a unit, but do
not alter its adjustment for length. The new
rod can then (if required) be set to the same
length as the original in order to maintain the
original setting. Do so by loosening off the
locknut and turning the balljoint as required;
ensure that the angle of the joint is correct
before tightening the locknut.
15Access to the gear lever/main connecting
rod joint from above is made by prising back
the gear lever gaiter from the centre console.
Access from underneath can be made by
raising and supporting the car on axle stands.
Working from the underside of the lever, undo
the retaining nuts and remove the inspection
plate from the floor (photos).
16Any adjustment to the gear linkage should
be entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
Transmission -
removal and refitting#
17The transmission can be removed
together with the engine and then separated
as described in Section 7, or on its own (as
described below), leaving the engine in
position in the car. Before starting to remove
the transmission, it should be noted that
suitable equipment will be required to support
the engine during this procedure.
18Disconnect the battery negative lead.
19Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
20Refer to Section 11 in this Chapter for
details and detach the clutch operating
cylinder together with its mounting bracket
from the top of the transmission, but do not
disconnect the hydraulic fluid hose from the
cylinder connection. Leave the cylinder
attached to the bracket. Tie the cylinder and
bracket up to support them out of the way.
21Reaching down between the transmission
and the bulkhead, unscrew the knurled
retaining nut and withdraw the speedometer
cable from the transmission.
22Remove the front roadwheel trims, then
loosen off the front wheel retaining bolts.
Raise the vehicle and support it on axle
stands at a suitable height to allow working
underneath and eventual transmission
removal from under the front end.
23Drain the transmission oil as described
previously in this Section.
24Disconnect and remove the starter motor
(photos).
25Detach the reversing light switch lead
connector.
26Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
earth lead from the rear end of the
transmission (see photo 7C.33). Refit the bolt
once the lead has been disconnected.
13•96 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
12B.15B Access cover to gear lever lower
connection to rod on the 1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.92 Exploded view of the gear selector and control road assembly components
fitted to 1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.15A Gear lever connection to the main
connecting rod on the 1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.91 Exploded view of the gear selector lever, rod and linkage components on
1372 cc models (Sec 12)

Starter motor brushes
(later models) - renewal#
25When renewing the starter motor brushes
on later models, the old brushes will need to
be crushed (in a vice or with a hammer) and
their leads then soldered to the new brushes.
Fuses - later models
26The fuse arrangement is slightly different
on later models, but the circuits protected are
still identified by a symbol. Refer to the
Specifications Section for full details. Note
also the terminal block with plastic cover,
which can be used to isolate the battery from
the electrical system by disconnecting the
leads from the terminals (photos).
Relays (Turbo ie models) -
general
27On Turbo ie models, the relays mounted
in the fuse block are as shown in Fig. 13.103.
Additional relays are located as follows:
Headlamp relay - on lead under main fuse
blockFuel injection system main control relay -
adjacent to airflow meter
Headlamps later models
28The headlamp units fitted on later models
differ according to model, but the bulb and
unit replacement details are generally the
same as described for previous models in
Chapter 9. Note that the rubber cover can
only be fitted with the tab to the top as shown
(photo).
Headlamp beam adjusters for
load compensation - later
models
29Some later models are fitted with
headlamp beam adjusters which allowtemporary resetting to be made (such as
when the car is fully loaded). Access to these
adjusters is made by lifting the bonnet (photo).
30Turn the adjusters anti-clockwise to lower
the beam to the normal level or clockwise to
raise the beam (when the car is unloaded).
Repeat the procedure on the opposite
headlamp unit an equal amount.
31Other later models have separate
horizontal and vertical beam adjusters,
positioned as shown (photos). A load
compensating lever is attached to the
adjusters to enable temporary resetting of the
headlamp beams, without changing the
normal adjustment. Turn the lever to the
appropriate side (right or left) to make the
adjustment as required. The normal setting
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•105
15.26B Battery lead terminal block on the
1301 cc Turbo ie model15.23B Starter motor and wiring
connections on the 1372 cc ie engine
15.31B Headlamp vertical beam alignment
adjuster screw on a 1372 cc ie model. Note
the load compensator lever which is set in
the “O” (normal load) setting position15.31A Headlamp horizontal beam
alignment adjuster screw on a 1372 cc ie
model
15.29 Headlamp beam adjuster on the
999 cc Turbo ie model15.28 Headlamp unit fitted to the 1372 cc ie
model
15.26A Fuse block on the 1301 cc Turbo ie
model
13
Fig. 13.103 Auxiliary fuses and relays on
1301 cc Turbo ie models (Sec 15)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated rear screen relay
3 Foglamps relay
4 Radiator fan relay
5 Electric windows relay
6 Foglamps fuse
7 Radiator fan second speed fuse
8 Fuel injector fan fuse
9 Electric windows fuse
10 Electric fuel pump fuse

83Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Reset the clock on completion.
Central door locking system
84Certain later models, equipped with a
central door locking system, have an infra-red
remote control for opening the door locks.
85It is important that the battery used in the
hand control is renewed when necessary with
one of identical type (Duracell 7H34). This is
only available as a FIAT spare part (No
7595393).
86The remote control door lock receiver unit
can be removed by carefully prising it free
from the roof panel and disconnecting the
wiring connector (photo).
87If either this unit or the hand control are
renewed at any time, recoding will be
necessary and this is a task best entrusted to
a FIAT dealer.
Cigar lighter
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
88Pivot back the cover and lift out the ashtray.
89Undo the retaining screws and remove
the trim together with the lighter unit. Detach
the wiring connector and release the lighter
unit from the panel.
90Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Electrically operated windozw
switches -
removal and refitting
Á
91The window regulator switches on later
models are located in the door pull trim. To
remove a switch, prise it free from the trim by
inserting a thin-bladed screwdriver under the
switch flange, then lever it free from its
aperture (photo). Take care not to damage thetrim. Detach the wiring connector to fully
remove the switch.
92Refit in the reverse order of removal and
then check the operation of the switch.
Windscreen wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
ª
93Disconnect the battery negative lead.
94Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
95Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut (photo).
96Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•109
15.81 Roof-mounted spotlamp switch
removal15.80B Roof-mounted spotlamp bulb
removal15.80A Prising free the roof-mounted
spotlamp
15.96B . . . and detach the windscreen
washer hose15.96A Release the air grille from its fixing
points . . .15.95 Unscrewing the wiper pivot nut
15.91 Prising free the window regulator
switch from the armrest15.86 Remote control receiver unit removal15.82 Roof-mounted clock retaining screw
removal
13

As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle (photos).
97Where applicable, detach and remove the
washer reservoir from the recess in the front
of the windscreen to allow access to the wiper
motor.
98Unscrew and remove the two wiper motor
retaining screws. Lower and withdraw the
unit, then detach the cover from the motor.
Disconnect the wiring from the wiper motor
and withdraw it from the car (photos).
99Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check for satisfactory operation of the wiper
and washer on completion.
Windscreen washer reservoir
(Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
100Disconnect the battery negative lead.
101Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
102Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut.
103Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle.
104Syphon any remaining washer fluid from
the reservoir, then disconnect it and partiallywithdraw it from the recess in front of the
windscreen so that the wiring connection and
the washer supply hoses (to the windscreen
washer and the rear screen washer nozzles)
can be detached from the pump unit. Remove
the reservoir from the vehicle.
105Refit in the reverse order of removal. If the
washer pump unit was detached from the
reservoir, use a new seal washer when refitting
it. Top up the reservoir and check the screen
washers for satisfactory operation before
refitting the grille panel and the wiper arm/blade.
Tailgate wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
106Although the tailgate wiper motor differs
in appearance, its removal and refitting
procedures are much the same as those
described for the earlier models in Section 27
of Chapter 9 (photo).
Radio
107All later models are now equipped with
power supply and speaker leads for radio
installation.
108Installation of the standard FIAT aerial
mounted on the windscreen pillar is shown
(photos).
Check control system sensors -
description
109The locations of the sensors referred to in
Chapter 9, Section 34 are given in the
following paragraphs, and their construction
differs according to their individual function.
Brake fluid level sensor
110This is mounted in the master cylinder
fluid reservoir cap, and comprises a pair of
reed switches in a glass bulb, and a magnet at
the end of a float.
111When the fluid level is correct, the
magnetic flux closes the switches. In the
event of a leak in the system, the magnet
moves away, the switches open and the
warning lamp comes on.
Brake disc pad wear sensor
112This is basically a circuit wire embedded
in the pad friction material. As the pad wears,
the wire is eventually exposed and contacts
the disc, whereupon the warning lamp comes
on to indicate that pad renewal is necessary.
Coolant level sensor
113This is located in the cooling system
expansion tank, and is of the reed switch
type, which operates in a similar way to that
described for the brake fluid sensor.
Engine oil level sensor
114This is located at the end of the dipstick,
and comprises a pair of switches at the end of a
bi-metallic strip, heated by electrical resistance.
115The heat is dissipated by the immersion
of the dipstick in the engine oil, so preventing
the bi-metallic strip from curving so much that
the switches would open.
116If the oil level drops, the heat is no longer
dissipated, the switches open, and the
warning lamp comes on.
13•110 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.108B Pillar lower screw for aerial15.108A Pillar upper screws for aerial15.106 Tailgate wiper motor - later model
15.98C . . . and detach the wiring
connector15.98B . . . separate the wiper motor from
its cover . . .15.98A Remove the wiper motor retaining
screws . . .

18Refitting of all components is a reversal of
removal.
Radiator grille (1301 cc
Turbo ie model) -
removal and refitting
Á
19The grille is secured by a central screw
and two upper clips. Use a screwdriver to
prise the tabs on the upper clips downwards
(photos).
20Lift the grille upwards and forwards to
disengage its lower mountings (photo).
21Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Radiator grille (1372 cc ie
and 1372 cc Turbo ie
models) - removal
and refitting
Á
22The radiator grille on these models is
secured by screws at the top edge (photo).
Raise and support the bonnet. Undo the
retaining screws, then lift the grille clear.
23Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Bumpers (1301 cc Turbo ie,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
Removal - front
24Remove the radiator grille as previously
described, to provide access to the bumper
upper mounting screws (photo).
25The ends of the bumpers are secured withbolts and captive nuts but to reach them, the
underwing shields must be released and
pulled away.
26Disconnect the leads from the auxiliary
lamps which are mounted in the spoiler, and
then lift the bumper/spoiler from the car.
Removal - rear
27Open the tailgate to provide access to the
bumper upper mounting screws.
28Disconnect the leads from the rear
number plate lamp. Unscrew the lower
mounting nuts (photo).
29Disconnect the bumper end fixings, which
are accessible under the rear wing edges
(photo).
Refitting - front and rear
30Refitting either front or rear bumpers is a
reversal of removal.
Rear hinged windows -
removal and refittingª
31These have toggle-type catches and
hinges bolted directly through the glass
(photo).
32To remove the window glass, have an
assistant support it, and then unscrew the
cross-head hinge screws and the toggle catch
anchor plate screws. Lift the glass away. If the
toggle catch must be removed from the glass,
first drive out the handle pivot pin and then,
using a pin wrench or circlip pliers, unscrew
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•113
17.20 Removing the radiator grille from a
1301 cc Turbo ie model17.19B Prising down a radiator grille clip17.19A Extracting a radiator grille screw
17.31 Rear window toggle-type catch17.29 Unscrewing a bumper end fixing nut
17.24 Front bumper upper mounting screw
(arrowed)17.22 Radiator grille screw removal on a
1372 cc SX ie model
17.28 Rear bumper lower mounting nut
13