brake FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

Cylinder head - removal and refitting
Sump pan - removal and refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - removal and
refitting
Oil pump - removal and refitting
Engine mountings - renewal
1116 cc and 1301 cc engines
Valve clearances - checking and adjusting
Camshaft and camshaft carrier - removal
and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
Sump pan - removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal and refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - removal and
refitting
Engine mountings - renewal
Part 2:
903 cc engine
5 Valve clearances-
adjustment
2
1Adjust the valves when the engine is cold.
2Unbolt and remove the rocker cover.
3It is important that the clearance is set
when the cam follower of the valve being
adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie;
opposite the peak). This can be done by
carrying out the adjustments in the following
order, which also avoids turning the
crankshaft more than necessary.
4Turn the crankshaft either using a spanner
on the pulley nut or by raising a front
roadwheel, engaging a gear (3rd or 4th) and
turning the wheel in the forward direction of
travel. It will be easier to turn the engine if the
spark plugs are first removed.
Valve fully open Check and adjust
Valve No. 8 EX Valve No. 1 EX
Valve No. 6 IN Valve No. 3 IN
Valve No. 4 EX Valve No. 5 EX
Valve No. 7 IN Valve No. 2 IN
Valve No. 1 EX Valve No. 8 EX
Valve No. 3 IN Valve No. 6 IN
Valve No. 5 EX Valve No. 4 EX
Valve No. 2 IN Valve No. 7 IN5Count the valves from the timing cover end
of the engine.
6Remember, the inlet and exhaust valve
clearances are different.
7Insert the appropriate feeler gauge between
the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm.
It should be a stiff sliding fit (photo).
8If the clearance is incorrect, release the
rocker arm adjuster screw locknut using a ring
spanner. Turn the adjuster screw using a
small open-ended spanner, but tie something
to it in case it is inadvertently dropped
through one of the pushrod holes.
9Once the clearance is correct, tighten the
locknut without moving the position of the
adjuster screw.
10Repeat the operations on the remaining
seven valves.
11Re-check all the clearances. Make sure
that the rocker cover gasket is in good
condition and fit the rocker cover.
6 Timing chain and sprockets
- removal and refitting
3
1Remove the alternator drivebelt as
described in Chapter 2.
2Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley
nut.3Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump.
4Unbolt and remove the fuel pump with
spacer and rod.
5Support the engine on a hoist or under the
sump and disconnect and remove the
right-hand mounting. Then unscrew and
remove the timing cover bolts. The base of
the cover is secured by the front two sump
pan studs. Unbolt and lower the front end of
the sump. Avoid breaking the gasket. Remove
the timing cover.
6Undo and remove the camshaft sprocket
securing bolt; this will also release the fuel
pump drive cam from the end of the camshaft.
Note the timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets.
7Using two tyre levers, carefully ease the two
sprockets forwards away from the crankcase.
Lift away the two sprockets and timing chain.
8Remove the Woodruff key from the
crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and note
how the channel in the pulley is designed to fit
over it. Place the Woodruff key in a container
as it is a very small part and can easily
become lost. The camshaft sprocket is
located on the camshaft by a dowel peg.Refitting
9Fit the Woodruff key to the front of the
crankshaft.
10Tap the crankshaft sprocket onto the front
of the crankshaft.
11Turn the sprocket so that the Woodruff
key is uppermost.
12Turn the camshaft until it is in such a
position that if the sprocket was fitted the
dimple timing mark on the sprocket would be
nearest to and in alignment with, the one on
the crankshaft sprocket.
903 cc engine 1•9
5.7 Adjusting a valve clearance
1 Sprocket retaining bolt
2 Fuel pump eccentric cam
3 Timing chain4 Camshaft sprocket
5 Sprocket locating dowel
6 Camshaft7 Woodruff key
8 Crankshaft
9 Crankshaft sprocket
Fig. 1.6 Timing chain and sprockets (Sec 6)
1
To prevent the crankshaft
rotating, either select a gear
and have an assistant apply
the footbrake hard or
remove the starter motor and lock the
ring gear teeth with a large cold chisel
or screwdriver.

Fig. 1.20 Flywheel housing cover plate
removed (Sec 13)
Fig. 1.19 Left-hand flexible
mounting (Sec 13)
10Disconnect the leads from the reversing
lamp switch.
11Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
cylinder head and coolant pump.
12Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
fuel pump. Plug the hose.
13Disconnect the throttle and choke
controls from the carburettor.
14Disconnect the heater hoses from the
engine.
15Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
carburettor.
16Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold.
17Raise the front end of the car and support
it securely on axle stands. Remove the
roadwheels.
18Unscrew the driveshaft to hub nuts. These
are very tight and a long knuckle bar will be
required when unscrewing them. Have anassistant apply the brakes hard to prevent the
hub turning.
19Working under the car, remove the
protective shields and disconnect the exhaust
system mountings and withdraw it to the
rear.
20Disconnect the forward ends of the
gearchange rods by prising their sockets from
the ballstuds.
21Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod
end balljoints and using a suitable “splitter”
tool separate the balljoints from the steering
arms. Unbolt the brake calipers and tie them
up out of the way.
22Unscrew and remove the bolts which
secure the hub carriers to the U-clamps at the
base of the suspension struts (photo).
23Pull the tops of the hub carriers from the
clamps and release the driveshafts from the
hub carriers.24Tie the driveshafts in a horizontal plane
with lengths of wire.
25Support the engine on a hoist or use a
trolley jack under the engine/transmission and
remove the bottom mounting and then the
upper left and right-hand ones (photo).
26Carefully lower the power unit to the floor
and withdraw it from under the car.
27External dirt and grease should now be
removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a
water-soluble solvent.
28Unbolt and remove the engine mounting
brackets and the starter motor.
29Unbolt and remove the cover plate and
gearchange ball stud strut from the lower front
face of the flywheel housing.
30With the engine resting squarely on its
sump pan unscrew the flywheel housing
connecting bolts noting the location of any
lifting lugs and hose and wiring brackets.
1•14 903 cc engine
13.25 Right-hand engine mounting
Fig. 1.18 Hub carrier detached
from strut clamp (Sec 13)
13.22 Hub carrier strut clamp
Fig. 1.17 Tie-rod end balljoint
disconnected (Sec 13)Fig. 1.16 Gearchange rods
disconnected (Sec 13)
Fig. 1.15 Fuel return hose
disconnected from carburettor
(Sec 13)Fig. 1.14 Fuel inlet hose
disconnected from pump
(Sec 13)Fig. 1.13 Coolant hose at rear
of coolant pump (Sec 13)Fig. 1.12 Coolant hoses at
thermostat housing (Sec 13)

8Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft
drive pulley and, taking care not to kink or
strain the belt, slip it over the camshaft pulley.
The camshaft may have to be turned slightly
to mesh the pulley with the teeth on the belt.
Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last; if this
is difficult, do not lever or force the belt on,
recheck the belt (photo).
9Release the tensioner nut and rotate the
crankshaft through two complete revolutions.
Retighten the nut. The belt tension may be
checked by twisting it through 90º with the
finger and thumb. It should just turn through
this angle without undue force. Note: The
above procedure serves only as a rough guide
to setting the belt tension - having it checked
by a FIAT dealer at the earliest opportunity is
recommended.
10Refit the timing belt cover (photo). Fit and
tension the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2,
Section 8).
29 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
3
1Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 2).
2Disconnect the battery.
3Disconnect and plug the carburettor fuel
hoses.
4Disconnect the throttle and choke linkage
from the carburettor. 5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs.
6Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the intake manifold.
7Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
8Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
system hoses from the rocker cover and
carburettor.
9Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
10Release the timing belt tensioner pulley
bolt, then lever the pulley against the spring
plunger and retighten the bolt to retain the
tensioner pulley in the non-tensioned position.
Slip the belt from the camshaft sprocket.
11Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor and intake manifold.
12Disconnect the exhaust downpipes from
the manifold.
13If a crowfoot type wrench is available, the
cylinder head nuts and bolts can be removed
and the complete cylinder head camshaft
carrier assembly withdrawn (photo).
14If this type of wrench is not available
however, remove the carrier first as described
in Section 27.
15If a crowfoot is available, unscrew the
cylinder head nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively starting with the centre ones
and working towards both ends.
16Rock the cylinder head by gripping the
manifolds. Note: Do not insert a lever in
the gasket joint to prise the head from the
block.17Pull the head off the studs and remove it
to the bench. Remove and discard the old
cylinder head gasket.
18Unbolt and remove the hot air collecting
shield for the air cleaner from the exhaust
manifold. The exhaust and inlet manifolds can
now be unbolted. The carburettor may remain
on the inlet manifold.
19Overhaul and decarbonising of the
cylinder head is described in Section 39.
20Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but make sure the crankshaft and
camshaft timing marks are set as described in
Section 28 to avoid the valve heads digging
into the piston crowns when the head is
refitted.
21Always use new gaskets. The cylinder
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•25
Fig. 1.29 Timing belt arrangement (Sec 28)
1 Camshaft sprocket
2 Tensioner pulley locknut
3 Timing mark on crankshaft front oil seal
retainer
4 Crankshaft sprocket
5 Crankshaft sprocket timing mark
6 Auxiliary shaft sprocket
7 Tensioner bracket bolt
8 Tensioner pulley
9 Timing belt
10 Tensioner bracket
11 Tensioner spring
28.8 Slipping timing belt onto tensioner
pulleyFig. 1.28 TDC marks (1) at front of engine
(Sec 28)
Fig. 1.30 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence (Sec 29)28.10 Tightening timing belt cover nut29.13 Using a crowfoot type wrench on a
cylinder head bolt
1

2The big-end bearing shells can be renewed
without having to remove the cylinder head if
the caps are unbolted and the
piston/connecting rod pushed gently about
one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its
lowest point). If these shells are worn,
however, the main bearing shells will almost
certainly be worn as well. In this case, the
engine should be removed for complete
overhaul including crankshaft removal.
3To remove the piston/connecting rods,
remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 29.
4Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock it
from its hole in the crankcase. It is an
interference fit in the hole.
5Unscrew the nuts from the big-end caps,
then remove the caps with their bearing
shells. The caps and their connecting rods are
numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the timing cover
end of the engine. The numbers are adjacent
at the big-end cap joint and on the side of the
crankcase furthest from the auxiliary shaft.
6If the bearing shells are to be used again,
tape them to their respective big-end caps.
7Push each connecting rod/piston assembly
up the bore and out of the cylinder block.
There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has
developed at the top of the bores, remove this
by careful scraping before trying to remove
the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will
otherwise prevent removal or break the piston
rings during the attempt.
8If the connecting rod bearing shells are to
be used again, tape the shells to their
respective rods.
9Dismantling the piston/connecting rod is
described in Section 18.
Refitting
10Fit the new shells into the connecting rod
and caps, ensuring the surfaces on which the
shells seat, are clean and dry.
11Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly
spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings
and the cylinder bores.
12Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the
rings.
13Insert the piston/connecting rod into the
cylinder bore, checking that the rod assembly
is correct for that particular bore. The cap and
rod matching numbers must be furthest away
from the auxiliary shaft (Fig. 1.31).14Push the piston into the bore until the
piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block
and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to
push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore
(photo).
15Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the
big-end of the connecting rod to the journal.
Fit the big-end cap and nuts, checking that
the cap is the right way round (photo).
16Tighten the big-end nuts to the specified
torque. The correct torque is important as the
nuts have no locking arrangement. After
tightening each big-end, check the crankshaft
rotates smoothly (photo).
17Refit the oil pick-up pipe, the cylinder
head, oil pump and sump pan, all as
described earlier.
18Refill the engine with oil and coolant.
33 Engine mountings-
renewal
1
1Three engine/transmission flexible
mountings are used.
2To renew a mounting, support the weight of
the engine/transmission on a hoist or jack and
unbolt and remove the mounting.
3In the unlikely event of all three mountings
requiring renewal at the same time, only
disconnect them and renew them one at a
time.
34 Engine- method of removal
1The engine complete with transmission
should be removed by lowering it to the floor
and withdrawing it from under the front of the
car which will have been raised to provide
adequate clearance.
35 Engine/transmission-
removal and separation
3
1Open the bonnet, disconnect the
windscreen washer tube.
2Mark the hinge positions on the undersideof the bonnet and then with the help of an
assistant to support its weight unbolt and
remove the bonnet to a safe place.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Drain the cooling system and the engine
and transmission oils.
5Remove the air cleaner.
6From the rear of the alternator disconnect
the electrical leads.
7Disconnect the leads from the starter
motor, oil pressure and coolant temperature
switches, also the oil temperature switch.
8Disconnect the LT lead from the distributor
and the HT lead from the ignition coil.
9Disconnect the clutch cable from the
release lever at the transmission. Also
disconnect the speedometer drive cable
(knurled ring).
10Pull the leads from the reversing lamp
switch.
11Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
engine. Also disconnect the brake servo hose
from the intake manifold.
12Disconnect the choke and throttle
controls from the carburettor.
13Disconnect the inlet hose from the fuel
pump and plug the hose.
14Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
carburettor.
15Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor throttle block.
16Raise the front of the car and remove the
front roadwheels.
17Unscrew and remove the driveshaft to
hub nuts. These are very tight and a long
knuckle bar will be required when unscrewing
them. Have an assistant apply the brake pedal
hard to prevent the hub from turning.
18Working under the car, remove the inner
wing protective shields and then disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
19Disconnect the exhaust pipe sections by
removing the socket clamp just forward of the
rear axle beam. Remove the front section.
20Disconnect the forward ends of the
gearchange rods by prising their sockets from
the ballstuds.
21Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod
end balljoints and then using a suitable
“splitter” tool, separate the balljoints from the
steering arms.
22Unbolt the front brake hose support clips
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•27
32.16 Tightening a big-end cap nut32.15 Fitting a big-end cap32.14 Fitting piston into cylinder bore
1

2Draw the engine and transmission together
by screwing in the connecting bolts.
Refit lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips
(photo).
3Bolt the lower cover plate to the face of the
flywheel housing.
4Bolt the starter motor into position.
5Bolt the mounting brackets into place.
6Place the engine/transmission on the floor
ready for raising by hoist or jack into the
engine compartment.
7Raise the car and position it over the
engine/transmission.
8Hoist or jack the power unit upwards until
the left and right-hand mountings can be
connected (photos).9Remove the lifting mechanism and connect
the bottom mounting (photos).
10Connect the inboard ends of the
driveshafts with the transmission and the
outboard ends with the hub carriers.
11Reconnect the hub carriers with the
clamps at the base of the suspension struts.
Tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque.
12Bolt the brake flexible hose support clips
to the suspension struts.
13Reconnect the tie-rod end balljoints
tightening the nuts to the specified torque.
14Reconnect the gearchange rods. The
easiest way to do this is to force the sockets
onto the ball studs using a pair of self-locking
grips (photo).15Refit the exhaust system and
reconnect the downpipe to the manifold
(photo).
16Screw on the driveshaft nuts and tighten
them to the specified torque. Have an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard to
prevent the driveshaft from turning.
17Refit the front roadwheels and lower the
car to the floor.
18Reconnect the carburettor fuel and
coolant hoses.
19Unplug the fuel hose and connect it to the
pump.
20Reconnect the choke and throttle controls
to the carburettor.
21Reconnect the coolant and heater hoses
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•33
44.8B Left-hand engine mounting44.8A Raising engine/transmission into
engine compartment44.2 Lifting lug at bellhousing bolt
44.15 Exhaust downpipe flange nuts44.14 Connecting a gearchange rod ball
cup44.9B Lower mounting attachment bolts
44.9A Engine/transmission lower mounting44.8D Right-hand mounting bolted up44.8C Right-hand engine mounting
brackets
1

to the engine. Also reconnect the brake servo
hose to the intake manifold (photos).
22Reconnect the leads to the reversing lamp
switch. Reconnect the transmission earth lead
(photos).
23Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as
described in Chapter 5.
24Reconnect the speedometer drive cable
to the transmission and tighten the knurled
retaining ring.
25Reconnect the low tension lead to the
distributor and the high tension lead to the
ignition coil.
26Reconnnect the electrical leads to thestarter motor, the oil pressure and
temperature switches and the coolant
temperature switch.
27Connect the leads to the alternator.
28Refit the air cleaner.
29Refill the cooling system. Refill the engine
with oil.
30Reconnect the battery.
31Refit the bonnet and connect the
windscreen washer tube.
32Fit the inner wing protective shields
(photo).
45 Engine- initial start-up after
major overhaul
4
1If new bearings and rings have been fitted,
it is likely that the engine will be stiff to turn so
make sure the battery is well charged.
2Switch on the ignition and check that
appropriate warning lights come on.
3Start up the engine. If it refuses to start,
refer to the “Fault Finding” Section in the
Reference section of this Manual.
4Watch the oil pressure warning light and
alternator charging indicator light. If there is
no charge or if the oil pressure warning light
does not go out after a second or two, havinghad time to fill the new oil filter, switch off and
recheck.
5If the warning lights go out, set the engine
to run on fast idle and check the engine for
leaks.
6Check the coolant level; it will probably go
down as air locks are filled.
7Keep the engine running at a fast idle and
bring it up to normal working temperature. As
the engine warms up, there will be some odd
smells and smoke from parts getting hot and
burning off oil deposits.
8When the engine running temperature has
been reached, adjust the idling speed, as
described in Chapter 3. Check and, if
necessary, adjust the ignition timing using a
stroboscope (see Chapter 4).
9Stop the engine and wait a few minutes;
check to see if there are any coolant or oil
leaks.
10Road test the car to check that the engine
is running with the correct smoothness and
power. If it does not, refer to “Fault finding” in
the Reference section of this Manual. Do not
race the engine. If new bearings and/or
pistons and rings have been fitted, it should
be treated as a new engine and run it at
reduced speed for at east 800 km (500 miles).
11After 800 km (500 miles) change the
engine oil and filter.
1•34 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
44.32 Inner wing protective shield44.26B Coolant temperature switch44.26A Oil pressure warning switch
44.22B Transmission earth lead
44.22A Reversing lamp switch on
transmission44.21B Brake servo hose at manifold44.21A Heater hose at manifold

Fault finding - all engines
Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults, do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check
procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not
normally diagnosed quickly. In any event, the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to
be made.
All engines 1•35
1
Engine fails to turn when starter operated
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine/transmission earth strap broken or loose
m mDisconnected or broken wire in starter circuit
m mIgnition/starter switch defective
m mStarter motor or solenoid defective (see Chapter 9)
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure) or long disuse (piston rings rusted
to bores)
Engine turns and fails to start
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery or engine earth strap loose
m mStarter motor connections loose
m mOil in engine/transmission too thick
m mStarter motor defective
m mVapour lock in fuel line (in hot conditions or at high altitude)
m mBlocked float chamber needle valve
m mFuel pump filter blocked
m mChoked or blocked carburettor jets
m mFaulty fuel pump
m mFuel tank empty
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mShorted or disconnected low tension leads
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mContact breaker point spring earthed or broken
m mFaulty condenser
m mDefective ignition switch
m mFaulty coil
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or plug bodies
m mBroken, loose or disconnected LT leads
m mIgnition leads connected wrong way round
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mFuel starvation or tank empty
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Engine stalls and will not restart
m
mToo much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs
m mFloat damaged or leaking or needle not seating
m mFloat lever incorrectly adjusted
m mIgnition failure - sudden
m mIgnition failure - misfiring precedes total stoppage
m mIgnition failure - in severe rain or after traversing water splash
m mNo petrol in petrol tank
m mPetrol tank breather choked
m mSudden obstruction in carburettor
m mWater in fuel system
Engine slow to warm up
m
mChoke linkage maladjusted
m mAir cleaner temperature control unit defective
m mThermostat stuck open (see Chapter 2)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Difficult starting when cold
m
mInsufficient choke
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or spark plug bodies
m mDirty or maladjusted contact breaker points
m mOther ignition fault or timing maladjustment (see Chapter 4)
m mFuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (may be due to incorrect valve clearances, burnt
or sticking valves, blown head gasket, worn or damaged pistons,
rings or bores)
m mIncorrect valve timing (after rebuild)
Difficult starting when hot
m
mIncorrect use of manual choke
m mFuel line vapour lock (especially in hot weather or at high altitudes)
m mIncorrect ignition timing
m mOther fuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see above)
Engine lacks power
m
mIgnition timing incorrect
m mContact breaker points incorrectly gapped
m mIncorrectly set spark plugs
m mDirty contact breaker points
m mDistributor automatic advance and retard mechanisms not
functioning correctly
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mAir cleaner choked
m mCarburation too rich or too weak
m mFuel filter blocked
m mAir filter blocked
m mFaulty fuel pump giving top and fuel starvation
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression
m mValve clearances incorrect
m mCarbon build-up in cylinder head
m mSticking or leaking valves
m mWeak or broken valve springs
m mWorn valve guides or stems
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mBurnt out valves
m mBlown cylinder head gasket (accompanied by increase in noise)
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mWorn or scored cylinder bore
m mBrakes binding
Engine misfires throughout speed range
m
mDefective or fouled spark plug
m mLoose, cracked or defective HT lead
m mMaladjusted, sticking or burnt valves
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mBlown head gasket
m mFuel contaminated
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Poor engine braking
m
mHigh idle speed
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow compression

Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
2•8 Cooling and heating systems
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system
m mPump ineffective due to slack drivebelt
m mRadiator blocked either internally or externally
m mKinked or collapsed hose causing coolant flow restriction
m mThermostat not working properly
m mEngine out of tune
m mIgnition timing retarded or auto advance malfunction
m mCylinder head gasket blown
m mEngine not yet run-in
m mExhaust system partially blocked
m mEngine oil level too low
m mBrakes binding
Engine running too cool
m
mFaulty, incorrect or missing thermostat
Loss of coolant
m
mLoose hose clips
m mHoses perished or leaking
m mRadiator leaking
m mFiller/pressure cap defective
m mBlown cylinder head gasket
m mCracked cylinder block or head
Heater gives insufficient output
m
mEngine overcooled (see above)
m mHeater matrix blocked
m mHeater controls maladjusted or broken
m mHeater control valve jammed or otherwise
defective

12The air cleaner on the 1301 cc engine is
mounted on the four flange studs of the
carburettors, their nuts being accessible after
the air cleaner lid has been removed and the
filter element extracted.
13Refitting of all types of air cleaner is a
reversal of removal.
3 Fuel pump-
removal and refitting
2
1On 903 cc engines, the fuel pump is
mounted on the side of the timing chain cover
and is driven by a pushrod from an eccentric
on the front of the camshaft.
2On the 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines, the
fuel pump is mounted on the side of the
crankcase and is driven by a pushrod from an
eccentric on the auxiliary shaft.
3The removal of both types of pump is
carried out in a similar way.
4Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
pump and plug the hose (photo).
5Disconnect the fuel outlet hose from the
pump.
6Unscrew the pump fixing bolt and remove it
together with spacer, pushrod and gaskets
(photos).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure
that a new gasket is located on each side of
the spacer.
8The gasket on the inboard side of thespacer should always be 0.3 mm thick, but
gaskets for the outboard side are available in
thicknesses 0.3, 0.7 and 1.2 mm, as a means
of adjusting the fuel pump pressure. The
standard fuel pressure is 0.176 bar
(2.55 lbf/in
2). If the pressure is too high a
thicker gasket should be used, if too low, fit a
thinner one.
4 Fuel level transmitter-
removal and refitting
1
1The transmitter is accessible after having
removed the small cover panel from the floor
of the car under the rear seat (tipped forward)
with the floor covering peeled back (photo).
2Disconnect the fuel flow and return hoses
and the electrical leads from the transmitter.
3Unscrew the securing ring and lift the
transmitter from the tank.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new
rubber sealing ring.
5 Fuel tank-
removal and refitting
1
1It is preferable to remove the fuel tank when
it has only a very small quantity of fuel in it. Ifthis cannot be arranged, syphon out as much
fuel as possible into a suitable container
which can be sealed.
2The tank is mounted just forward of the rear
axle.
3Disconnect the filler hose and the breather
hose from the tank (photo).
4Unscrew the mounting bolts from the
support straps and lower the tank using a jack
with a block of wood as an insulator. Release
the handbrake cable from its support bracket
on the side of the tank (photo).
5Once the tank has been lowered sufficiently
far, disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses, breather hose and sender unit leads
and remove the tank from the car.
Warning: Never attempt to
solder or weld a fuel tank
yourself; always leave fuel tank
repairs to the experts. Never
syphon fuel into a container in an
inspection pit. Fuel vapour is heavier than
air and can remain in the pit for a
considerable time.
6If the tank contains sediment or water,
clean it out by using several changes of
paraffin and shaking vigorously. In order to
avoid damage to the sender unit, remove this
before commencing operations.
7Finally allow to drain and rinse out with
clean fuel.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
9On 1984 and later models, the fuel tank is
of plastic construction.
Fuel system 3•5
3.6B Fuel pump spacer and pushrod3.6A Fuel pump on mounting studs3.4 Fuel pump
5.4 Fuel tank mounting straps5.3 Fuel tank filler and vent hoses4.1 Fuel tank transmitter
3

8
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dual-circuit hydraulic with servo unit and pressure regulating valve.
Discs front, drums rear. Handbrake mechanical to rear wheels.
Disc brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, sliding caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227.0 mm (8.94 in)
Disc thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 to 10.9 mm (0.42 to 0.43 in)
Minimum regrind thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm (0.35 in)
Minimum wear thickness of pad friction material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Caliper cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.0 mm (1.89 in)
Drum brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, with automatic adjusters
Drum internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185.24 to 185.53 mm (7.30 to 7.31 in)
Maximum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187.0 mm (7.37 in)
Minimum shoe lining friction material thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)
Master cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)
Vacuum servo diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158.5 mm (6.0 in)
Hydraulic fluid type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 3 or 4, or SAE J1703C
System capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 litre (0.58 pint)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Caliper mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Rear wheel cylinder mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Pressure regulating valve mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Master cylinder mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Rear brake backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Chapter 8 Braking system
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Brake disc - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brake drum - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Disc pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fault finding - braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Handbrake cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Hydraulic hoses and pipes - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Pressure regulating valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear brake shoes - inspection and removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stop lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Vacuum servo unit - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Vacuum servo unit - servicing and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
8•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321