bulb FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

adjustment procedures are the same as those
outlined for the previous model units in
Chapter 9, but ensure that the load
compensation lever is turned to the “O”
(normal load setting) position before making
any adjustments.
Headlamp unit removal - later
models
32The removal and refitting procedures
described in Chapter 9 also apply to the later
headlamp type, but note that later units are
secured in position by three retaining screws.
Headlamp dim-dip system -
description
33On later models, the wiring circuit has
been modified to prevent the car being drivenon parking lamps only in built-up areas.
34Headlamp intensity is reduced by the
transformer located at the front of the engine
compartment (photo).
35Any attempt to start the car with parking
lamps only on will automatically cause the
headlamps to switch on with a low-intensity
dipped beam. Dipped and main beam
function normally.
36The headlamp dim-dip system is a legal
requirement for all UK models registered after
April 1st, 1987.
Front fog lamps - bulb/unit
removal and refitting
and beam adjustment
ª
37Ensure that the front fog lamps are
switched off, then unscrew the two retainingscrews and withdraw the lamp unit from the
underside of the front bumper (photos).
38Undo the retaining screw and remove the
access cover from the unit (photo).
39Disconnect the wiring connector from the
bulb, release the clips and withdraw the bulb
from the lamp (photo).
40Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check the light for satisfactory operation and
if the beam requires resetting, turn the
adjustment screw in the required direction.
41To adjust the beam, position the car 5 m
from, and square on to, a wall or similar.
42Measure the height of the centre of the
lamp lens from the ground and mark the
position on the wall. Switch on the lamp. The
demarcation line (cut-off) of the light should
be below the mark on the wall by 50 mm plus
one-third of the ground-to-lamp centre
measurement. Adjust the beam as required
using the long centre screw.
Horn - relocation
43The single horn, on applicable models, is
now located behind the grille, bolted on a
bracket attached to the top rail (photo).
Steering column combination
switches (later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
44Disconnect the battery negative lead.
45Undo the retaining screws and remove
the steering column shrouds (photos).
46Remove the steering wheel as described
in Chapter 10.
13•106 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.45B . . . then remove the upper . . .15.45A Undo the retaining screws . . .15.43 Horn location
15.39 . . . detach the wires, extract the bulb15.38 . . . remove the rear cover . . .
15.37B . . . and withdraw the front fog lamp
unit . . .15.37A Undo the retaining bolts . . .15.34 Headlamp dim-dip transformer

47Loosen off the switch-to-column clamp
screw, disconnect the wiring connectors to
the switch and withdraw the switch from the
column (photos).
48Refit in the reverse order of removal, but
ensure that the lug of the switch aligns with
the slot in the column as it is fitted into
position. Check for satisfactory operation of
the switches on completion.
Instrument panel
(Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
49The instrument panel on these models
incorporates an engine oil pressure gauge
and a turbo boost gauge. The latter is
connected directly to the inlet manifold.
50Apart from disconnecting the boost gauge
rubber hose, the instrument panel removal
and refitting procedure is as described in
Chapter 9 for the 1301 cc model or from
paragraph 57 in this Section for the 1372 cc
model.
51A digital electronic instrument panel is
available as an option on Turbo ie models.
The removal and refitting procedures differ
from analogue instrument panels in respect of
the electrical connections - a speedometer
drive cable is not used.
Facia-mounted switches
(1301 cc Turbo ie model) -
removal and refitting
Á
52Disconnect the battery.53Insert a thin-bladed screwdriver into the
joint between the switch block and the switch
block housing, to depress the plastic retaining
tabs. Do this carefully, otherwise the switch
block or casing will be damaged.
54Withdraw the switch block. Individual
switches can now be pushed out of the block.
Fibre optics are used to illuminate some
switches, these simply pull out of their
sockets (photos). The illumination bulb is
located on a crossmember found behind the
instrument pack. Removal of instruments/top
cover allows access.
55The switch housing can be removed after
extracting the fixing screws (photos).
56Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Instrument panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á57Disconnect the battery negative lead.
58Unscrew and remove the two instrument
panel-to-facia retaining screws (photo).
59Remove the lower facia trim panel, which
is secured by two screws and a nut. Reach up
to the rear of the instrument panel to
disconnect the speedometer cable, then push
the panel from its recess in the facia.
Disconnect the multi-connectors from the rear
face of the panel and withdraw it (photo).
60Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the speedometer cable is fully
engaged as the unit is refitted into position.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•107
15.47B . . . and remove the column switch15.47A Undo the retaining screw . . .15.45C . . . and the lower column
shroud . . .
15.58 Remove the retaining screws . . .15.55B Facia switch housing inner screw
removal on the 1031 cc Turbo ie model
15.54B Disconnecting a fibre optic cable
from its holder on the 1301 cc Turbo ie
model15.54A Switch block withdrawal on the
1301 cc Turbo ie model
15.55A Facia switch housing lower screw
removal on the 1301 cc Turbo ie model
13

Auxiliary control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
61Disconnect the battery negative lead.
62Insert the flat of a screwdriver under the
trim piece at the end of the auxiliary panel as
shown and prise it free. Repeat the procedure
and remove the trim piece at the other end of
the panel (photo).
63Undo the retaining screws, withdraw the
panel from the facia. Disconnect the wiring
connectors from the panel switches to
remove the panel completely (photo).
64A switch bulb can be renewed by
untwisting the holder and removing the holder
and bulb.
65A switch unit can be removed from the
panel by unscrewing the four retaining screws.66Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and check for satisfactory
operation of the switches on completion.
Heater control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
67Disconnect the battery negative lead.
68Pull free the heater/fresh air and blower
control knobs (photo).
69Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the control panel from the facia
(photos). Detach the wiring connectors from the
panel illumination lights and remove the panel.
70Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and on completion check
that the operation of the controls is satisfactory.
Trip master Á
71This electronic instrument is fitted into the
check panel of 1100SL and 1300SL models
from 1986.
72The device provides information on fuel
consumption, range, speed and elapsed time.
73With the ignition key turned to MAR,
figures are displayed in respect of the last
journey - average fuel consumption, average
speed and elapsed time (up to switching off
the ignition).
74As soon as the engine is started, the
instrument processes the current values to
include fuel consumption, range and the
actual time. 75Fuel consumption is only displayed when
the road speed exceeds 8.0 km/h (5.0 mph).
76The fuel range is only displayed after a
road speed of between 25.0 and 70.0 km/h
(15.0 to 44.0 mph) has been maintained for at
least 90 seconds or at higher speeds for
22 seconds.
77A reset button is provided, also a display
change button (from instant to average or
total values). Should the instrument reading
exceed 99 hours, 59 minutes or 1000 km
(622 miles) depressing the display change
button will display all zeros. Depress button E
to resume normal function.
78Refer to the end of the manual for a wiring
diagram of the check panel, incorporating the
trip master.
Interior roof mounted spotlamp,
switch and/or clock -
removal and refitting
Á
79Disconnect the battery negative lead.
80Prise free the lamp unit from its aperture
in the roof panel using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. The lamp bulb can be inspected
by untwisting the holder and withdrawing it
from the rear of the unit (photos). Extract the
bulb from the holder if it requires renewal.
81To remove the lamp switch from the
panel, reach through the lamp aperture and
press it free from the roof panel (photo).
Detach the wiring connectors.
82To remove the clock, reach through the
lamp aperture and undo the retaining screws
(photo). Withdraw the clock and detach the
wiring connectors.
13•108 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.69B . . . and withdraw the heater control
panel15.69A . . . undo the retaining screws
(arrowed)15.68 Remove the control knobs . . .
15.63 . . . and withdraw the auxiliary
control panel
15.62 Prise free the trim covers for access
to retaining screws . . .15.59B . . . and disconnect the
speedometer cable15.59A . . . withdraw the instrument
panel . . .

83Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Reset the clock on completion.
Central door locking system
84Certain later models, equipped with a
central door locking system, have an infra-red
remote control for opening the door locks.
85It is important that the battery used in the
hand control is renewed when necessary with
one of identical type (Duracell 7H34). This is
only available as a FIAT spare part (No
7595393).
86The remote control door lock receiver unit
can be removed by carefully prising it free
from the roof panel and disconnecting the
wiring connector (photo).
87If either this unit or the hand control are
renewed at any time, recoding will be
necessary and this is a task best entrusted to
a FIAT dealer.
Cigar lighter
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
88Pivot back the cover and lift out the ashtray.
89Undo the retaining screws and remove
the trim together with the lighter unit. Detach
the wiring connector and release the lighter
unit from the panel.
90Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Electrically operated windozw
switches -
removal and refitting
Á
91The window regulator switches on later
models are located in the door pull trim. To
remove a switch, prise it free from the trim by
inserting a thin-bladed screwdriver under the
switch flange, then lever it free from its
aperture (photo). Take care not to damage thetrim. Detach the wiring connector to fully
remove the switch.
92Refit in the reverse order of removal and
then check the operation of the switch.
Windscreen wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
ª
93Disconnect the battery negative lead.
94Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
95Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut (photo).
96Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•109
15.81 Roof-mounted spotlamp switch
removal15.80B Roof-mounted spotlamp bulb
removal15.80A Prising free the roof-mounted
spotlamp
15.96B . . . and detach the windscreen
washer hose15.96A Release the air grille from its fixing
points . . .15.95 Unscrewing the wiper pivot nut
15.91 Prising free the window regulator
switch from the armrest15.86 Remote control receiver unit removal15.82 Roof-mounted clock retaining screw
removal
13

As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle (photos).
97Where applicable, detach and remove the
washer reservoir from the recess in the front
of the windscreen to allow access to the wiper
motor.
98Unscrew and remove the two wiper motor
retaining screws. Lower and withdraw the
unit, then detach the cover from the motor.
Disconnect the wiring from the wiper motor
and withdraw it from the car (photos).
99Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check for satisfactory operation of the wiper
and washer on completion.
Windscreen washer reservoir
(Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
100Disconnect the battery negative lead.
101Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
102Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut.
103Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle.
104Syphon any remaining washer fluid from
the reservoir, then disconnect it and partiallywithdraw it from the recess in front of the
windscreen so that the wiring connection and
the washer supply hoses (to the windscreen
washer and the rear screen washer nozzles)
can be detached from the pump unit. Remove
the reservoir from the vehicle.
105Refit in the reverse order of removal. If the
washer pump unit was detached from the
reservoir, use a new seal washer when refitting
it. Top up the reservoir and check the screen
washers for satisfactory operation before
refitting the grille panel and the wiper arm/blade.
Tailgate wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
106Although the tailgate wiper motor differs
in appearance, its removal and refitting
procedures are much the same as those
described for the earlier models in Section 27
of Chapter 9 (photo).
Radio
107All later models are now equipped with
power supply and speaker leads for radio
installation.
108Installation of the standard FIAT aerial
mounted on the windscreen pillar is shown
(photos).
Check control system sensors -
description
109The locations of the sensors referred to in
Chapter 9, Section 34 are given in the
following paragraphs, and their construction
differs according to their individual function.
Brake fluid level sensor
110This is mounted in the master cylinder
fluid reservoir cap, and comprises a pair of
reed switches in a glass bulb, and a magnet at
the end of a float.
111When the fluid level is correct, the
magnetic flux closes the switches. In the
event of a leak in the system, the magnet
moves away, the switches open and the
warning lamp comes on.
Brake disc pad wear sensor
112This is basically a circuit wire embedded
in the pad friction material. As the pad wears,
the wire is eventually exposed and contacts
the disc, whereupon the warning lamp comes
on to indicate that pad renewal is necessary.
Coolant level sensor
113This is located in the cooling system
expansion tank, and is of the reed switch
type, which operates in a similar way to that
described for the brake fluid sensor.
Engine oil level sensor
114This is located at the end of the dipstick,
and comprises a pair of switches at the end of a
bi-metallic strip, heated by electrical resistance.
115The heat is dissipated by the immersion
of the dipstick in the engine oil, so preventing
the bi-metallic strip from curving so much that
the switches would open.
116If the oil level drops, the heat is no longer
dissipated, the switches open, and the
warning lamp comes on.
13•110 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.108B Pillar lower screw for aerial15.108A Pillar upper screws for aerial15.106 Tailgate wiper motor - later model
15.98C . . . and detach the wiring
connector15.98B . . . separate the wiper motor from
its cover . . .15.98A Remove the wiper motor retaining
screws . . .

14•20 Wiring diagrams
Component key for wiring diagrams 30 to 52
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
1 Injector cooling fan
2 Left front light cluster
3 Left foglamp
4 Left front engine compartment earth
5 Radiator cooling fan
6 Double contact thermostatic switch
on engine radiator
6A Thermostatic switch on engine
radiator
7 Left horn
8 Right horn
9 Resistor for engaging radiator fan 1st
speed
10 Right front light cluster
11 Right foglamp
12 Right front engine compartment earth
13 Battery
14 Ignition coil
15 Ignition distributor with magnetic
impulse generator
16 Left front side direction indicator
17 Ignition power module
18 MPi electronic injection control unit
19 Join between injection/ignition cables
in engine compartment
20 Battery cables join in engine
compartment
21 Antiskid braking system wiring join
22 Starting go-ahead relay
23 Earth for battery
24 Radiator coolant temperature sender
unit for electronic injection
25 Anti-knock sensor
26 Injection system diagnostic socket
27 Switch signalling insufficient engine
oil pressure
28 Radiator coolant temperature sender
unit
29 Engine oil temperature sender unit
30 Engine oil pressure sender unit
31 Right front side direction indicator
32 Engine oil temperature sender unit
cable join
33 Battery recharging signal cable join
34 Windscreen washer pump
35 Rear screen washer pump
36 Reversing switch
37 Fuel injectors relay feed
38 Insufficient brake fluid level sensor
39 Left brake pad wear sensor
40 Microplex electronic ignition control
unit
41 Injection cables join in engine
compartment
42 Ignition cables join in engine
compartment
43 Join between battery cable and
injection cables
44 Join between engine cable and
battery cables
45 Left front brake pad cables join
46 Starter motorNo Description
47 Windscreen wiper motor
48 Headlamp washer pump
49 Fuel injector
50 Fuel injector
51 Fuel injector
52 Fuel injector
53 Supplementary air valve
54 Spark plug
55 Spark plug
56 Spark plug
57 Spark plug
58 Excess supercharging pressure
switch
59 Throttle position switch
60 Engine speed sensor
61 Ignition diagnostic socket
62 Connector block
63 Connector block
64 Alternator
65 Thermostatic switch for injector
cooling fan
66 Right brake pad wear sensor
67 TDC sensor
68 Connector block
69 Connector block
70 Connector block
71 Connector block
72 Join with right brake pad cables
73 Electronic earth
74 Power earth
75 Brake stop-lamp switch
76 20 A fuse for central locking
77 10 A fuse for electric fuel pump
78 30 A fuse for radiator cooling fan
79 30 A fuse for electric windows
80 10 A fuse for injector cooling fan
81 20 A fuse for headlamp
wash/wipe
82 20 A fuse for foglamps
83 Junction box with fuses and relays:
E1 Horn relay (for single tone horns
bridge between 86 and 87)
E2 Heated rear screen relay
E3 Heater (bridge between 85 and 30)
84 Join between front cable and rear
cables
85 Join between front cable and door
ajar sensor cables
86 Earth on dashboard, left hand side
87 Earth on dashboard, right hand
side
88 Choke warning light switch
89 Ignition switch
90 Hazard warning lights switch
91 Steering column switch unit
A Rear screen wash/wipe switch
B Horn button
C Direction indicators switch
D Windscreen wiper intermittent
speed selector switch
E Windscreen/headlamp washer
control switchNo Description
F Rear foglamps/headlamp washer
intermittent device switch
G Headlamp dip switch
H External lights switch
I Flasher switch
92 Foglamp relay
93 Electric fuel pump relay
94 Electric windows relay feed
95 Headlamp wash/wipe intermittent
device
96 Direction indicators/hazard warning
lights flasher unit
97 Central locking receiver
98 Central locking control unit
99 Join with brake pad cables
100 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
101 Automatic heater cable join
102 Instrument panel
A Foglamps warning light
B Main beam headlamps warning
light
C Side lights warning light
D Rear foglamps warning light
E Heated rear screen warning light
F Hazard warning lights warning
light
G Direction indicators warning light
H Handbrake applied and insufficient
brake fluid level warning light
I Choke warning light
K Instrument panel light bulbs
L Battery recharging warning light
M Insufficient engine oil pressure
warning light
O Antiskid braking system failure
warning light
P Maximum turbocharging pressure
warning light
Q Brake pad wear warning light
R Door ajar warning light
U Fuel level gauge
V Engine oil pressure gauge
W Engine oil temperature gauge
Y Tachometer
Z Coolant temperature gauge
103 Join with remote control central
locking cables
104 Cigar lighter
105 Radio receiver
106 Heater unit
107 Switch unit
A Heated rear screen switch
B Rear foglamps switch
C Switch unit light bulb
D Rear screen wiper switch
E Foglamps switch
F Clock
108 Left front electric window motor
109 Left front central locking geared
motor
110 Switch signalling left front door ajar

Wiring diagrams 14•21
14
Component key for wiring diagrams 30 to 52 (continued)
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
111 Push button on left front pillar for
centre courtesy light
112 Front electric windows switch panel,
driver’s side
113 Join between dashboard cable and
adjustable map reading light cables
114 Join with left front electric window
cables
115 Join between dashboard cable and
rear cables
116 Join between rear cable and courtesy
light cables
117 Left front speaker
118 Handbrake ‘on’ switch
119 Centre courtesy light bulb
119A Adjustable map reading light on rear
view mirror
120 Right front electric window motor
121 Right front central locking geared
motor
122 Switch signalling right front door ajar
123 Push button on right front pillar for
centre courtesy light
124 Electric windows control panel,
passenger side
125 Fuel level gauge
126 Join with right front electric window
cables
127 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
128 Right front speaker
129 Left rear light cluster
130 Join between rear cable and luggage
compartment courtesy light
131 Windscreen washer pump wiring join
132 Rear screen washer pump wiring join
133 Left rear earth
134 Rear screen wiper motor
135 Electric fuel pump
136 Rear number plate lamp
137 Heated rear screen
138 Right rear light cluster
139 Rear foglamp go-ahead switch
140 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
141 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
142 25 A fuse for antiskid brakes
143 Antiskid braking system control unit
144 Left modulator for antiskid brakes
145 Right modulator for antiskid brakes
146 Sensor on left front wheel
147 Sensor on right front wheel
148 10A fuse for antiskid braking system
149 Vacuum switch for antiskid braking
system
150 Antiskid braking system engagement
relay
151 Antiskid braking system failure
signalling switch
152 Digiplex electronic ignition control
unitNo Description
153 Bosch SPi Mono-Jetronic injection
system control unit
155 Join between engine cable and
injection cables
156 Join between engine cable and rear
cables for SPi system
157 Idle adjustment actuator
158 Throttle position switch
159 Injector current restriction resistor
(SPi)
162 Engine cut-out solenoid
163 Idle cut-out solenoid valve
168 Tachometer electro-magnetic sensor
169 Automatic heater control unit
170 Heater fan
171 Outside temperature sensor
172 Mixed air temperature sensor
173 Air mixture flap electrical control
motor
174 Diagnostic socket for automatic
heater
175 Connector block
176 Connector block
177 Join with cables for automatic heater
178 Radiator coolant circulation solenoid
valve
179 Automatic heater unit:
A Temperature control potentiometer
B Fan speed control potentiometer
C Heater controls light bulbs
D Ideogram signalling automatic
function engaged
E Automatic function engaged
switch
180 Horn
181 Check Panel:
A Insufficient engine oil level warning
light
B Insufficient coolant level warning
light
C Failure with side lights/rear
foglamp/rear number
plate light/braking lights warning light
D Insufficient brake fluid level
warning light
E Door ajar warning light
F Brake pad wear warning light
182 Earth on dashboard
183 Join with cables for central locking
184 Join with cables for central locking
185 Left rear central locking geared motor
186 Right rear central locking geared
motor
187 Contact on choke lever
188 Resistor for inlet manifold heating
189 Pre-heating thermal switch
191 Heated Lambda sensor
192 Lambda sensor protective fuse
193 Silicon diode
194 Join between front cable and injection
cable
197 Connector blockNo Description
198 Rear cable join
199 Insufficient engine oil level sensor
200 Insufficient coolant level sensor
201 Switch signalling left rear door ajar
202 Switch signalling right rear door ajar
203 Switch on gear selector
204 Light for gear selector panel signalling
gear engaged
205 Parking signal not on
206 Connector block
207 Join in engine compartment with
injection cables
208 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
209 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
210 Airflow meter
211 Speedometer relay
212 LE2 Jetronic electronic injection
control unit
213 Connector block
214 Connector block
215 Connector block
216 Ignition cable join
217 Join between front cable and
emission control cable
218 Join between front cable and battery
cable
219 Injection system air temperature
sensor
220 Ignition control unit relay feed
225 Front cable join
226 Front cable join
227 Dim-dip circuit cut out switch
228 Dim-dip circuit resistance
229 Dim-dip circuit 7.5 A protective fuse
230 Driver’s side seat heated pad
231 Driver’s seat backrest heated pad
232 10 A protective fuse for driver’s seat
heated pads
233 Foglamps go-ahead switch
234 Driving lights cut out switch
235 Dipped headlamps relay
236 Main beam headlamps relay
237 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
Wire colour codes
A Light blue
B White
C Orange
G Yellow
H Grey
L Blue
M Brown
N Black
R Red
S Pink
V Green
Z Violet
Example of two-colour wire:
BN (White/Black)

Fault FindingREF•9
REF
Introduction
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component
reliability is such that, provided those items
subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden
failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not
usually just happen as a result of sudden
failure, but develop over a period of time.
Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily
carried in the vehicle.
With any fault finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or
replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have
spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault –
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual noises or smells, etc – and remember
that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some
underlying fault.
The pages which follow here are intended
to help in cases of failure to start or
breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault
Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter
which should be consulted if the preliminary
checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault,
certain basic principles apply. These are as
follows:Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for
someone else who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the
tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge
either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to,the
new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted.
Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’
component may itself be defective (especially
if it’s been rattling round in the boot for
months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they
are new or recently fitted. When you do finally
diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably
realise that all the evidence was there from
the start.
Electrical faults
Electrical faults can be more puzzling than
straightforward mechanical failures, but they
are no less susceptible to logical analysis if
the basic principles of operation are
understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in
extremely unfavourable conditions – heat,
vibration and chemical attack and the first
things to look for are loose or corroded
connections and broken or chafed wires,especially where the wires pass through holes
in the bodywork or are subject to vibration.
All metal-bodied vehicles in current
production have one pole of the battery
‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle
bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it
is the negative (–) terminal. The various
electrical components – motors, bulb holders,
etc – are also connected to earth, either by
means of a lead or directly by their mountings.
Electric current flows through the component
and then back to the battery via the
bodywork. If the component mounting is
loose or corroded, or if a good path back to
the battery is not available, the circuit will be
incomplete and malfunction will result. The
engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by
means of flexible metal straps to the body or
subframe; if these straps are loose or missing,
starter motor, generator and ignition trouble
may result.
Assuming the earth return to be
satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either
to component malfunction or to defects in the
current supply. Individual components are
dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are
broken or cracked internally this results in an
open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for
this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily
with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or
suitable connector at each end. Alternatively,
a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the
presence of supply voltage at various points
along the wire and the break can be thus
isolated.
If a bare portion of a live wire touches the
bodywork or other earthed metal part, the
electricity will take the low-resistance path
thus formed back to the battery: this is known
as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will
blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause
burning of the insulation (and possibly further
short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is
inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing
fuses with silver foil or wire.

Engine fails to turn when starter
operated
m mFlat battery (recharge use jump leads or
push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose or broken
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or
broken
m mIgnition/starter switch faulty
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure)
m mStarter or solenoid internal fault (see
Chapter 12)
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m mPartially discharged battery (recharge, use
jump leads, or push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose
m mStarter motor internal fault (see Chapter 9)
Starter motor spins without
turning engine
m mFlywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose
Engine turns normally but fails to
start
m mDamp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap
(crank engine and check for spark)
m mNo fuel in tank (check for delivery at
carburettor) m mExcessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient
choke (cold engine)
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
(remove, clean and regap)
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see Chapter 1)
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mAir leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold
m mFuel starvation (see Chapter 3)
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
Engine will not start
REF•10Fault Finding
Spares and tool kit
Most vehicles are supplied only with
sufficient tools for wheel changing; the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit detailed
in Tools and working facilities,with the
addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient
for those repairs that most motorists would
consider attempting at the roadside. In
addition a few items which can be fitted
without too much trouble in the event of a
breakdown should be carried. Experience and
available space will modify the list below, but
the following may save having to call on
professional assistance:
m mSpark plugs, clean and correctly gapped
m mHT lead and plug cap – long enough to
reach the plug furthest from the distributor
m mDistributor rotor, condenser and contact
breaker points (where applicable)m mDrivebelt(s) — emergency type may
suffice
m mSpare fuses
m mSet of principal light bulbs
m mTin of radiator sealer and hose bandage
m mExhaust bandage
m mRoll of insulating tape
m mLength of soft iron wire
m mLength of electrical flex
m mTorch or inspection lamp (can double as
test lamp)
m mBattery jump leads
m mTow-rope
m mIgnition waterproofing aerosol
m mLitre of engine oil
m mSealed can of hydraulic fluid
m mEmergency windscreen
m mWormdrive clips
m mTube of filler pasteIf spare fuel is carried, a can designed for
the purpose should be used to minimise risks
of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit
and a warning triangle, whilst not at present
compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible
items to carry in addition to the above. When
touring abroad it may be advisable to carry
additional spares which, even if you cannot fit
them yourself, could save having to wait while
parts are obtained. The items below may be
worth considering:
m mClutch and throttle cables
m mCylinder head gasket
m mAlternator brushes
m mTyre valve core
One of the motoring organisations will be
able to advise on availability of fuel, etc, in
foreign countries.
A simple test lamp is useful for checking
electrical faultsCarrying a few spares may save you a long walk!

Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example, FIAT garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows:
Officially appointed FIAT garages -This is
the best source of parts which are peculiar to
your car and otherwise not generally available
(eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox
components, badges, interior trim etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if your vehicle is still under warranty;
non-FlAT components may invalidate the
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts it will always be necessary to give the
partsman your car’s engine number, chassis
number and number for spares, and if
possible, to take the old part along for positive
identification. Many parts are available under
a factory exchange scheme - any parts
returned should always be clean. It obviously
makes good sense to go straight to the
specialists on your car for this type of part for
they are best equipped to supply you. They
will also be able to provide their own FIATservice manual for your car should you require
one.
Other garages and accessory shops - These
are often very good places to buy material
and components needed for the maintenance
of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs,
drivebelts, oils and grease, touch-up paint,
filler paste etc). They also sell accessories,
usually have convenient opening hours,
charge lower prices and can often be found
not far from home.
Motor factors - Good factors stock all of the
more important components which wear out
relatively quickly (eg clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
pipes/seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor
factors will often provide new or reconditioned
components on a part exchange basis - this
can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification
numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture
quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component required.
The chassis type and number plate is
located on the wing valance under the bonnet.
The identification data plate is located on the
radiator top rail. The engine type and number
is stamped on the cylinder block. The
paintwork colour code is given on a label
stuck to the inner surface of the tailgate.
REF•12Buying spare parts & Vehicle identification numbers
Manufacturer’s plate legend
Location of under-bonnet identification numbers and plates
A Chassis type and number
B Manufacturer’s plate
C Engine number (903 cc)
D Engine number (1116 cc and 1301 cc)
Engine number on 1116 cc engine
A Name of manufacturer
B Approval number
C Vehicle identification number
D Chassis serial number
E Maximum laden weight
F Maximum laden weight
(vehicle plus trailer)G Maximum front axle weight
H Maximum rear axle weight
I Engine type
L Body type
M Spares reference
N Diesel models only (smoke
coefficient)