maintenance FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

3.4 Removing the caliper unit
1 General description
The braking system is of four wheel
hydraulic type with discs on the front wheels
and drums on the rear.The hydraulic system is of dual-circuit type
and incorporates a pressure regulator valve to
limit pressure to the rear brakes during heavy
braking to prevent rear wheel lock up.
A vacuum servo unit is fitted to some
models.
The handbrake is mechanically operated on
the rear wheels.
2 Maintenance
1
1At the weekly service check, inspect the
fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
Topping up should only be required at very
infrequent intervals and should only be
necessary owing to the need for extra fluid in
the hydraulic system caused by wear of the
friction material of the disc pads and shoe
linings.
2The need for frequent or regular topping up
will be due to a leak in the system, probably
from a hydraulic cylinder seal or a flexible
hose. Correct the problem immediately.
3Use only clean new fluid for topping up. lt
must be of the specified type and have been
stored in a closed container and not have
been shaken for at least 24 hours (photo).
4At regular intervals, check the hoses and
pipelines for condition. Adjust the handbrake
if the lever travel becomes excessive. Check
the condition and security of the brake servo
vacuum hose. All these operations are
described later in this Chapter.
3 Disc pads-
inspection and renewal
2
1Jack up the front of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
2Extract the spring clips and slide out the
locking blocks (photos).
3On SX versions, carefully disconnect the
wear sensor lead connecting plug.
4Lift the caliper body from the disc and
inspect the thickness of the friction material
on each pad (photo). If it is 1.5 mm (0.06 in) or
less, renew the pads.
5Withdraw the pads and the anti-rattle
springs.
6Brush away any dust and dirt from the
caliper, taking care not to inhale the dust - this
contains asbestos and is thus potentially
injurious to health.
7As the new pads are thicker than the old
ones, the caliper piston must be depressed
8•2 Braking system
3.8A Disc pad and anti-rattle spring
Fig. 8.1 Components of the braking system (LHD shown) (Sec 1)
1 Caliper
2 Hose
3 Master cylinder
4 Fluid reservoir5 Cap and fluid level sensor
6 Vacuum servo unit
7 Rear wheel cylinder8 Pipeline
9 Hose
10 Pressure regulating valve
3.2B Removing a locking block
3.2A Removing a disc pad locking block
clip2.3 Fluid reservoir cap and float for
warning switch

9System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 negative earth, battery alternator and pre-engaged starter
Battery
Except 70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ah
70S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Ah
Alternator
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Valeo or Bosch 45A, 55A or 65A, with integral voltage
regulator
Nominal voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 V
Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm (0.236 in)
Starter motor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Marelli, Bosch or Femsa pre-engaged
Nominal power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 kW or 1.0 kW
Armature shaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 to 0.5 mm (0.0039 to 0.0197 in)
Minimum brush (wear) length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm (0.39 in)
Wiper blades
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4801 (19 in) or X-4503 (18 in)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-3303
Chapter 9 Electrical system
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Alternator - maintenance and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Alternator - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery - inspection, charging, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Central door locking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Check control (warning module) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Cigar lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Clocks - setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Courtesy lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Economy gauge (Econometer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Electrically-operated front door windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Exterior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Fault finding - electrical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Fuses and relays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlamp beam - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Headlamp bulb - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Heated tailgate window - precautions and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Instrument panel - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Interior lamps - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Radio/cassette - fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Rocker and push-button switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Speedometer drive cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Starter motor - description and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Starter motor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Steering column combination switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Tailgate contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Tailgate wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Voltage regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Washer system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Windscreen wiper blade and arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General description
The electrical system is of 12 volt negative
earth type and employs a belt-driven
alternator and a pre-engaged type starter
motor.
The models in the range are all adequately
equipped with electrical accessories, while SX
versions also have power windows and
centralised door locking plus a check control
system (Section 34).
2 Battery- inspection, charging,
removal and refitting
2
1The battery is of maintenance-free type and
under normal circumstances, no topping up
will be required, but regularly check that the
electrolyte level is between the minimum and
maximum lines on the translucent battery
casing.
2If the electrolyte level does drop below theminimum line, suspect a leak in the battery
casing or that the alternator is overcharging. If
the latter is the case, rectify the alternator fault
and then prise out the two rectangular plugs
from the top of the battery and top up with
distilled or purified water.
3Always keep the battery terminals clean
and smear them with petroleum jelly to
prevent corrosion.
4The battery will normally be kept fully
charged by the alternator, but it is possible for
the battery to become discharged if the daily
mileage is very low with much use being
made of the starter and electrical accessories.
5When the battery begins to deteriorate with
age it may also require a boost from a mains
charger.
6Disconnect both battery leads before
connecting the mains charger. 7To remove the battery from the car, first
disconnect the leads from the battery
terminals (earth first) and then unscrew the
securing clamp from the casing projection at
the base of the casing (photo).
8Lift the battery from its mounting platform.
Refitting is a reversal of removal. Reconnect
the earth cable last.
Fuses
Circuit protected Fuse rating (A)
1 Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, instrument panel warning
lamps, tachometer economy gauge, check control system . . . . . . 10
2 Windscreen wiper and washer, rear screen wiper/washer, check
system panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3 Left front parking, right rear tail lamp, cigar lighter illumination,
heater control and clock, digital clock illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
4 Right front parking lamp and left rear tail lamp, instrument panel
illumination and rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
5 Left-hand dipped headlamp, rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
6 Right-hand dipped headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7 Left-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
8 Right-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
9 Engine cooling fan and horn (Comfort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10 Heater booster fan, digital clock map reading lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
11 Heated tailgate glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
12 Courtesy lamps, cigar lighter, radio power feed, disc pad
sensors, economy gauge (ES models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
13 Hazard warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
14 Spare (Comfort), Horn (Super) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
BulbsWattage
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40/45 or Halogen H4 60/55
Front parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Side repeater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear foglamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Direction indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear number plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Courtesy lamp (roof) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Courtesy lamp (pillar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Warning and indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge base
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Alternator mounting and adjustment nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 87
Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
9•2 Electrical system
2.7 Battery clamp
If battery terminal corrosion
has occurred, it may be
neutralised by applying
sodium bicarbonate or
household ammonia.

3 Alternator-
maintenance and precautions
1
To avoid damage to the alternator, the
following precautions should be observed.
1Disconnect the leads from the battery
before connecting a mains charger to the
battery terminals.
2Never stop the engine by pulling off one of
the battery leads.
3Disconnect the battery if electric welding is
to be carried out on the vehicle.
4If using booster cables from another battery
to start the car, make sure that they are
connected positive to positive and negative to
negative.
5Maintenance consists of keeping the
outside of the alternator clean, the electrical
connections secure and the drivebelt correctly
tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.
4 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Depending on the model, access to the
alternator from above may be poor in which
case it will be necessary to work from the
underside of the vehicle, through the
right-hand wheel arch (after removing the
roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer
to Chapter 13 for details.
1Disconnect the leads from the rear of the
alternator.2Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts
and push the alternator as far as it will go in
towards the engine (photos).
3Slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts
and lift the alternator from the brackets on the
engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2,
Section 8.
5 Alternator- overhaul
3
1Overhaul of the alternator should be limited
to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has
covered a high mileage, it will be found moreeconomical to exchange it for a new or
factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew
worn components on the original unit.
Brush renewal
(Marelli alternator)
2Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover.
3Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw
the brush holder (photos).
4Fit the new brush holder which is supplied
complete with brushes, by reversing the
removal operations.
Brush renewal
(Bosch alternator)
5Where applicable, remove the radio
suppression condenser (capacitor) from the
rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a
plug-in connection).
6Undo the two screws which retain the brush
holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then
Electrical system 9•3
5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting
Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)
1 Pulley
2 Fan
3 Bolts
4 Washers
5 Drive-end bracket
6 Stator windings
7 Plate screw
8 Diode plate
(rectifier pack)9 Body
10 Brush
11 Spring
12 Brush holder
13 Condenser
14 Screws and
washers
15 Screws and
washers16 Screws and
washers
17 Plug socket
18 Suppressor
19 Shaft nut
20 Spring washer
21 Thrust ring
22 Bearing
23 Retainer plate24 Thrust ring
25 Spring washer
26 Screw and washer
27 Key
28 Rotor
29 Bearing
30 Backing washer
31 Shield (where
applicable)
5.3B Removing alternator brush holder
9

them. Carefully release the fibre optic
filaments (photos).
6A push-button switch can be removed by
compressing its retaining tabs and pushing it
from the panel.
7A rocker switch can be removed if its knob
is pulled off and the switch sections
withdrawn from the panel.
8Reassembly and refitting of both types of
switches are reversals of removal and
dismantling.
14 Tailgate contacts
1
1Contact blocks are used to transmit power
to the heated tailgate window and to the wiper
motor.
2The block on the tailgate or the body may
be released by prising their ends with a
screwdriver (photos).
15 Horns
1
1These are mounted close to the
engine/transmission left-hand mounting
below the radiator.
2Apart from keeping the connecting leads
secure, no maintenance or adjustment is
required.
16 Headlamp bulb- renewal
1
1Open the bonnet and pull off the plug and
the rubber cover from the rear of the
headlamp (photo).
2Prise back the spring bulbholder clips and
withdraw the combined bulb and holder
(photos).
3Refit the new bulb. Avoid fingering it if it is
of halogen type. Should the fingers touch the
bulb, wipe it with a rag soaked in methylated
spirit to remove any residual grease.
4Turn the bulbholder until the pip on its
flange engages in the cut-out in the rim of the
reflector.
5Snap back the spring retaining clips, refit
the rubber cover and reconnect the plug.
17 Headlamp beam- alignment
2
1It is recommended that the headlamp
beams are aligned by your dealer or a service
station having optical setting equipment.
2Where an owner wishes to do the job
himself, proceed in the following way.
3Have the car standing on a level floor with
9•6 Electrical system
Fig. 9.3 Headlamp beam adjustment
screws (Sec 17)
A Vertical B Horizontal
16.2B Headlamp halogen type bulb16.2A Headlamp bulbholder spring
clips
14.2B Body contact block
16.1 Headlamp plug and rubber
cover
14.2A Tailgate contact block13.5B Switch panel fibre optic13.5A Withdrawing switch panel

10
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion with safety column
Steering wheel diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381.0 mm (15.0 in)
Number of turns, lock-to-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Turning circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4 m (3084 ft)
Steering angles of roadwheels
Inner wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32º 58’
Outer wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39º 8’
Front suspension steering angles
Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 5’ negative to 0º 55’ positive
Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 40’ to 2º 20’ positive
Toe-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 2.0 mm (0 to 0 08 in)
Rear suspension
Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º (non-adjustable)
Rack lubricant
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lithium based molybdenum disulphide grease
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 cc
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Tie rod balljoint locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Tie-rod balljoint taper pin nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Steering column upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3
Chapter 10 Steering
Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Fault finding - steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Steering angles and front wheel alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Steering column lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Steering gear - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Steering rack - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering rack gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tie-rod end balljoint - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 Description and
maintenance
1
1The steering gear is of rack and pinion type
with a universally-jointed column which
incorporates a steering lock and ignition
switch.
2The steering wheel is of two spoke type on
all models except the SX which has four
spokes.
3The system is maintenance-free except to
check occasionally the pinch-bolts.4At the intervals specified in“Routine
Maintenance”carefully inspect the rack gaiters
for splits, particularly at the bottom of the
vees, as a split here can often go unnoticed.
5Check the tie-rod balljoints for wear. To dothis, have an assistant turn the steering wheel
repeatedly in both directions through an arc of
about 10 or 15 degrees. Observe the balljoints
for lost motion or slackness. If evident, renew
the balljoint as described in Section 2
Fig. 10.1 Sectional view of steering gear (Sec 1)

11
Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent with MacPherson struts and coil springs
Coil springs
Free height:
903 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 mm (13.16 in)
1116 and 1301 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 mm (13.5 in)
Number of coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25
Rear suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and double-acting gas-filled
shock absorbers
Coil springs
Free height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.5 mm (9.7 in)
Number of coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Driveshaft/hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Strut spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Strut base clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Track control arm balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Track control arm inboard mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Crossmember bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Rear suspension
Trailing arm bracket to body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Trailing arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Shock absorber upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Shock absorber spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Chapter 11 Suspension
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Fault finding - suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Front coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Front hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Rear coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear suspension - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Track control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Trailing arm rubber bush - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General description
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type.
The rear suspension consists of a beam
axle with trailing arms, coil springs and double
acting gas-filled telescopic shock absorbers.
Operations covering the hubs, roadwheels
and tyres are described in Chapter 7.
2 Maintenance
4
1Periodically check the tightness of all
suspension nuts and bolts using a torque
wrench.
2At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance” inspect all suspension rubber
bushes for deterioration or wear. Renew
where necessary.
3Check for wear in the track control arm to
hub carrier balljoint. Do this by raising the
roadwheel and prising the control arm down.
If the hub carrier is pulled outwards, any up
and down movement or slackness will
necessitate renewal of the track control arm,
although it may be possible to obtain a
balljoint repair kit from a motor factor.
4A defective strut or shock absorber can
usually be detected by the tendency of the car
to pitch badly when braking or cornering.
However the component can be tested more
thoroughly in the following way.
5Remove the strut and take off the coil
spring or withdraw the rear shock absorber as
described later in this Chapter.
6Grip the strut or shock absorber lower
mounting in the jaws of a vice and then fully
extend and contract the unit five or six times,
with the unit held in a vertical attitude. If there is
any lack of resistance, jerkiness or seizure, then
the unit will have to be renewed, no repair being
possible. It is recommended that struts orshock absorbers are renewed in pairs as axle
sets, in order to maintain similar suspension
characteristics on both sides of the car.
7Check for signs of hydraulic fluid leakage
from around the front strut spindle gland and
also the condition of the dust excluding boot.
Oil leakage will mean a new unit, a split boot
can be renewed after having withdrawn the
coil spring.
3 Front suspension strut-
removal and refitting
4
1Raise the front of the car, support it
securely and remove the roadwheel.2Release the brake hydraulic hose
from the strut by unscrewing the retaining clip
bolt.
3Unscrew and remove the two bolts from the
clamp at the bottom of the strut, push the hub
carrier down out of the clamp (photo).
4Open the bonnet. Unscrew and remove the
domed reinforcement cover. Then remove the
strut top mounting nuts from the turret. Do not
attempt to unscrew the centre spindle nut
(photos).
5Withdraw the strut downwards and out
from under the wing (photo).
6Coil spring clamps must now be fitted.
These are available from most motor stores or
can be hired (photo).
7Once the spring has been compressed to
11•2 Suspension
3.5 Withdrawing a front strut3.4B Strut upper mounting nuts
3.4A Strut reinforcement plate3.3 Strut clamp bolt
Fig. 11.1 Front suspension arrangement (Sec 1)Fig. 11.2 Rear suspension arrangement (Sec 1)

12
For dimensions, weights etc. refer to the Introductory Section of this Manual.
Chapter 12 Bodywork
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Bonnet - lock and release . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Door - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Facia panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Fixed side window (five-door) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Front bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Front seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Grab handles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Opening side window (three-door) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 18
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rear bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Rear seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Rear view mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Roof rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Seat belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Sunroof - operation and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Tailgate glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Windscreen glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General description
The Uno is an all steel, welded Hatchback
of unitary construction available in three- or
five-door versions.
Various levels of trim and equipment are
available depending upon model.
Factory fitted options include a sunroof,
central door locking and electrically-operated
front windows.
2 Maintenance-
bodywork and underframe
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water

can be drained out (photos). Brightwork
should be treated in the same way as
paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be
kept clear of the smeary film which often
appears, by the use of proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.
3 Maintenance-
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well asdetails on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
12•2 Bodywork
2.4B Sill drain with non-return valve2.4A Door drain hole
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.