FORD F650 2006 11.G Owners Manual

this chapter. The advertised capacity is the amount of the Indicated
Capacity and the Empty Reserve combined. Indicated Capacity is the
difference in the amount of fuel in a full tank and a tank when the fuel
gauge indicates empty. Empty Reserve is the small amount of usable fuel
remaining in the fuel tank after the fuel gauge indicates empty.
The amount of Empty Reserve varies and should not be relied
upon to increase driving range. When refueling your vehicle after
the fuel gauge indicates empty, you might not be able to refuel
the full amount of the advertised capacity of the fuel tank due to
the empty reserve still present in the tank.
Filling the tank
For consistent results:
•Use the same fill rate setting (low - medium - high) each time during
filling.
•Allow three automatic click-offs when filling.
•Always use fuel of a known quality, preferably a national brand.
•Have the vehicle loading and distribution the same every time.
•When refueling a vehicle equipped with dual fuel tanks, if the two
tanks are not filled equally, the fuel gauge reading may fluctuate
slightly until the fuel level between the two tanks balance out and
become equal.
Your results will be most accurate if your filling method is consistent.
Note:For vehicles equipped with dual fuel tanks, engine performance
may degrade if fuel is not added to both tanks when refueling.
Calculating fuel economy
1. Fill the fuel tank(s) completely and record the initial odometer
reading (in miles or kilometers).
2. Each time you fill the tank(s), record the amount of fuel added (in
gallons or liters).
3. After at least three to five tank fill-ups, fill the fuel tank(s) and record
the current odometer reading.
4. Subtract your initial odometer reading from the current odometer
reading.
5. Follow one of the simple calculations in order to determine fuel
economy:
•Divide total miles traveled by total gallons used.
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•Multiply liters used by 100, then divide by total kilometers traveled.
Keep a record for at least one month and record the type of driving (city
or highway). This will provide an accurate estimate of the vehicle’s fuel
economy under current driving conditions. Additionally, keeping records
during summer and winter will show how temperature impacts fuel
economy. In general, lower temperatures give lower fuel economy.
Driving style - good driving and fuel economy habits
Give consideration to the lists that follow and you may be able to change
a number of variables and improve your fuel economy.
Habits
•Smooth, moderate operation can yield up to 10% savings in fuel.
•Steady speeds without stopping will usually give the best fuel
economy.
•Anticipate stopping; slowing down may eliminate the need to stop.
•Sudden or hard accelerations may reduce fuel economy.
•Slow down gradually.
•Driving at reasonable speeds (traveling at 55 mph [88 km/h] uses 15%
less fuel than traveling at 65 mph [105 km/h]).
•Using the air conditioner or defroster may reduce fuel economy.
•Resting your foot on the brake pedal while driving may reduce fuel
economy.
Conditions
•Carrying unnecessary weight may reduce fuel economy.
•Fuel economy may decrease with lower temperatures during the first
8–10 miles (12–16 km) of driving.
•Flat terrain driving improves fuel economy over hilly roads.
•Transmissions give their best fuel economy when operated in the top
cruise gear and with steady pressure on the accelerator.
•Close windows for highway driving.
NOISE EMISSIONS – EXTERIOR
In order to comply with the federal exterior noise regulations, your
vehicle may be equipped with noise emission items. Depending on the
vehicle configuration, it may have all or some of the following items:
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Air Intake System
•Air Cleaner:should be inspected and its location should not be
altered. Do not alter inlet and outlet piping.
Body
•Wheel Well:splash shields, cab shields and under-hood insulation
should be inspected for deterioration, dislocation, and orientation.
Cooling System
•Check the fan for damage to blades; replace, if damaged, with the
recommended parts. Inspect for fan to shroud interference, and any
damage to shroud such as cracks and holes.
•The fan ratio should not be changed and the fan spacer dimensions
and positions should not be altered.
•Inspect the fan clutch for proper operation, make sure that the fan is
disengaged when cooling of the engine is not required.
•Check for proper operation of radiator shutters, if equipped. The
shutters should be open during normal operating temperatures.
Engine and Driveline System
•Transmission Enclosure:inspect for cracks, holes, and tears. Clean
any deposits such as oil, dirt, and stones.
•Engine valve covers and block covers are made to damp out engine
mechanical noise and, if needed, should be replaced with
recommended parts. Check for mechanical isolations.
Exhaust System
•Inspect the exhaust system for leaks at various joint connections and
tighten the clamps.
•Do a visual inspection for cracks or holes in the muffler and tail pipe.
•Always use the recommended parts when items need to be replaced.
•The tail pipe elbow or offset tail pipe orientation must not be changed
from the standard position as originally received.
•To avoid abnormal changes in vehicle sound levels, it is necessary for
the owner to perform inspections and necessary maintenance at the
intervals shown in theScheduled Maintenance Guidechapter.
CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE AIR COOLER
Inspect charge air cooler daily
With the engine off, visually inspect the charge air cooler core assembly
for debris and clogging of external fins. Prior to engine operation,
remove any debris blocking the core.
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•Turbocharger-to-charge air cooler
•Charge air cooler-to-intake manifold pipe
•Mounting bracket
•Chassis-mounted charge air cooler core
Inspect air intake piping
•Check for accumulation of salt deposits (where applicable). If present,
disassemble and clean the complete air intake piping system. If the
intake piping is pitted, use Motorcraft Silicone Gasket and Sealant
TA-30 to seal joints against leakage.
•Check for loose hoses and clamps.
•Check for ruptured or collapsed hoses.
•Check air cleaner housing for cracks.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSPECTIONS
Periodically inspect electrical connectors on the outside of the cab, on
the engine and frame for corrosion and tightness. Exposed terminals
such as the fuel sender, cranking motor, alternator and feed-through
studs should be cleaned and re-coated with a lubricant sealing grease
such as Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectic
Compound XG-3, or equivalent. This should include the ground cable
connector for batteries, engine and cab as well as the jump starting stud.
Accessory feed connections
Vehicle electrical systems are complex and often include electronic
components such as engine and transmission controls, instrument panels,
ABS, etc. While most systems operate on battery voltage (12 volts),
some systems can be as high as 90 volts or as low as five volts. Refer to
the Electrical Circuit Diagram Manuals, available from your vehicle’s
manufacturer, to ensure that any additional body lights and accessories
are connected to circuits that are both appropriate and not overloaded.
No modification should be made to any vehicle control system without
first contacting your dealer.
SUSPENSION INSPECTION
Note:Do not adjust air suspension height to any setting other than the
specified setting. Altering the height setting will change the driveline
angle and may result in unwarrantable component damage, such as
transmission component damage.
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Verify drive axle air suspension height and height control valve
performance at engine lube oil change intervals.
Periodically:
•Check condition of spring leaves for evidence of fatigue, bending or
breakage.
•Check condition of suspension mounting brackets and bushings.
•Check that torque rod mounting fasteners are tight.
•Check to be sure the suspension alignment is maintained at all time.
•Check U-bolts after the chassis has been operating under load for
1,000 miles (1,600 km) or six months, whichever comes first, the
U-Bolt nuts must be re-torqued. The U-Bolt nuts thereafter must be
re-torqued every 36,000 miles (58,000 km). The U-Bolt and nut
threads and seats should be cleaned and lubricated to ensure a “like
new” condition when re-torquing.
Note:See theU-Bolt Nut Torquechart later in this section.
Supporting your vehicle for service
When performing service repairs on your vehicle, first prepare the
vehicle by doing the following:
1. Park the vehicle on a level concrete floor.
2. Set the parking brake and block the wheels to prevent the vehicle
from moving.
3. Select a jack with a rated capacity sufficient to lift and hold up the
vehicle.
4. Raise the vehicle with the jack applied to the axle(s). DO NOT use the
bumper as a lifting point.
5. Support the vehicle with floor stands under the axle(s). If the axle or
the suspension are being serviced, support the vehicle with floor stands
under the frame side-members, preferably between the axles.
Do not use a jack when working under a vehicle. It may give
way, causing the vehicle to fall and result in property damage,
personal injury or death. Always use floor stands to support the
vehicle.
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FRAME AND TOW HOOKS
Your vehicles chassis is manufactured with frame rails of either HSLA
steel or heat-treated steel. Each must be handled in a specific manner to
ensure maximum service life. Before attempting frame repair or
modification, consult the service manual or your dealer.
It is important, particularly on vehicles where the tow hooks are used
frequently to inspect the front and rear tow hooks for damage or a loose
mounting.
U-BOLT NUT TORQUE
U-bolt diameter (nominal) (all
spring suspensions)U-bolt diameter (nominal)
Ft. lb. N•m
IROS Air w/15,500 lb. axles and
less260–300 353–407
IROS Air w/greater than 15,500 lb.
axles370–400 502–542
Hendrickson 23,000 lb. axle 370–400 502–542
Air suspension U-bolt checks and re-torquing procedures
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Using a torque wrench, determine if any nuts can be turned with a
force below the specified torque.
3. Using the lowest discovered torqued nut as a starting point, retighten
the nuts using the sequence listed underAir suspension U-bolt and
U-bolt nut installation.
Air suspension U-bolt and U-bolt nut installation
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Install the U-bolts and nuts and torque the nuts to 15 ft. lb. (20 N•m),
using a diagonal pattern.
3. Re-torque the nuts to 100 ft. lb. (136 N•m), using a diagonal pattern.
4. Re-torque the nuts to 200 ft. lb. (271 N•m), using a diagonal pattern.
5. Re-torque the nuts to 400 ft. lb. (542 N•m), using a diagonal pattern.
(For vehicles equipped with 14ACC, 14 ADN and 14ADP axles, do not
use Step 6.)
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6. Re-torque the nuts to 425 ft. lb (576 N•m), using a diagonal pattern.
(For vehicles equipped with 14ACC, 14 ADN and 14ADP axles.)
7. Use the same diagonal pattern with each U-bolt nut re-torque.
Spring U-bolt checks
Check U-bolt nuts and re-torque every 36,000 miles (58,000 km) after
initial 1,000 miles (1,600 km) re-torque. The U-bolt and nut threads and
seats should be cleaned and lubricated to ensure peak condition when
re-torqued.
PROPELLER SHAFT
At the regular lubrication interval, check the universal joints for any
evidence of wear or looseness. Should propeller shaft vibrations occur,
stop the vehicle immediately to avoid possible hazardous consequences
or damage to other components.
REAR AXLE LUBRICANT
Refer to theScheduled Maintenance Guidechapter for rear axle
lubricant level checks and lubricant change intervals.
Your rear axle may be filled with an optional synthetic lubricant which
allows the use of extended service intervals. A tag on the filler plug will
identify the use of the synthetic lubricant.
Use only a lubricant that meets manufacturer specifications (refer to
Lubricant specificationsin this chapter).
Use of a non-approved rear axle lubricant may cause internal axle
component damage.
Checking the rear axle lubricant level
1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Set the parking brake and shift into N (Neutral) (automatic
transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission) and turn the engine off.
3. Clean any dirt from around the rear axle filler plug.
4. Remove the filler plug and inspect the lubricant level.
5. The lubricant level should be up to the bottom of the filler plug
opening.
6. If necessary, add enough lubricant through the filler plug opening so
that the lubricant level is at the bottom of the opening.
7. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
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Draining and refilling the rear axle lubricant
1. Drain the rear axle while the lubricant is warm.
2. Park the vehicle on level ground.
3. Set the parking brake and shift into N (Neutral) (automatic
transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission) and turn the engine off.
4. Clean any dirt from around the rear axle filler and drain plugs.
5. Remove the filler and drain plugs and drain the lubricant into a
suitable container. Dispose of all used automotive fluids in a responsible
manner following your local authorized standards.
6. Clean and install the drain plug securely.
7. Add enough lubricant through the filler plug opening so that the
lubricant level is up to the bottom of the opening.
8. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
WHEELS
General
Wheel bearings should be inspected, lubricated and adjusted at regular
intervals. This is especially important if operating in deep sand, mud, or
water. Refer toLubricant specificationsin this chapter.
When installing wheel balance weights, they must be mounted on the
dome-side of the wheel only. Failure to do so may result in loss of wheel
weight and/or damage to brakes or wheels.
Important:Remember to replace the wheel air valves when the road
tires are replaced at the end of their useful life.
Oil lubricated front wheel bearings
During normal vehicle duty cycle, the lube and air inside the hub/wheel
cavity expands and if not vented, causes pressure build-up that could
cause accelerated seal wear.
There are two venting methods:
•a slit or small hole in the rubber check vent or
•the window
You can use either of these methods to prevent pressure build-up.
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Normal maintenance
Over a period of time, if not routinely cleaned, a slight film of oil can
collect dirt around the rubber fill plug and face, which could appear to
be a leak. Routine cleaning ensures that the lube level can be easily
observed through the clear window as intended. In situations where the
window is clean on the outside but discolored on the inside, the lube
level may be checked by inserting a finger through the rubber check
vent hole.
The specified lube level for a clear window type hubcaps is from the
minimum line to + 5/16 inch above the minimum line.
If the lube level should suddenly drop dramatically below the minimum
level, see the Service Manual for diagnostic procedure.
Installation, tightening and alignment
8–lug wheel
10–lug wheel
When installing wheels, be certain that the threads on studs and nuts are
clean to permit correct torquing of nuts. The mounting surfaces of rims,
wheels, spacer rings and clamps must be free of dirt, rust, lubricants or
damage.
Use a wire brush to clean the mounting contact surfaces. Do not use
lubricant on threads.
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After the rim or wheel has been properly tightened, it should be checked
for alignment. Rotate the wheel with a piece of chalk attached to a
steady, firm surface, and placed to just barely clear the outside surface of
the tire bead seat. This procedure will point out the high spot. A high
spot does not necessarily mean that the lug nuts have been unevenly
tightened. This condition or misalignment could be caused by a bent
wheel.
Checking the alignment of the wheel/rim installation is more important
on cast spoke rims since the rims can be drawn out of alignment when
improperly tightened. Use the following installation procedures.
Disc wheel with flange nuts (hub-piloted)
Front wheel mounting of flange nut
system
1. Flange nut
2. Wheel(s)
3. Brake drum
4. Wheel stud (22 mm)
5. Wheel hub
Rear wheel mounting of flange nut
system
1. Flange nut
2. Wheel(s)
3. Brake drum
4. Wheel stud (22 mm)
5. Wheel hub
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