fuel filter location FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Maintenance – component location1•5
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoircap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Pre-heat tube
10 Timing belt cover
11 Distributor
12 Fuel filter
13 Heater blower motor cover
14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
16 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
17 EEC IV engine management module cover
18 CFi unit
19 Fuel injector
20 Fuel pressure regulator
21 Throttle plate control motor
22 Carbon canister
23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor
24 Ignition module
1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multi- plug
10 Alternator
11 Starter motor solenoid
12 CTX automatic transmission fluid level
dipstick
13 Exhaust heatshield/airbox
14 Brake pressure control valves
15 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
16 Carburettor
17 Fuel feed hose
18 Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid
connection
19 Throttle kicker
20 Throttle kicker control solenoid
21 Ignition module
22 Heater blower motor cover
23 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
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1•6Maintenance – component location
1.6 litre (XR2i) CVH EFi fuel injection engine
1595Ford Fiesta Remake1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 Vehicle identification plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Timing belt cover
10 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil
14 Fuel filter
15 Air cleaner
16 Air inlet duct
17 Idle speed control valve
18 Fuel pressure regulator
19 Throttle housing
20 Upper section of inlet manifold
21 Intake air temperature sensor
22 Fuel trap
23 EEC IV engine management module cover
24 Manifold absolute pressure sensor
25 Ignition module
1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection engine
1 Engine oil filler cap
2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Cooling system expansion tank
4 Braking system fluid reservoir
5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir
cap
6 Battery
7 VIN plate
8 Thermostat housing
9 Timing belt cover
10 Top of suspension strut mounting
assembly
11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket
12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt
13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil
14 Fuel filter
15 Air cleaner
16 Air inlet duct
17 Idle speed control valve
18 Fuel pressure regulator
19 Throttle housing
20 Inlet manifold
21 Throttle position sensor
22 Fuel system pressure release/test point
23 EEC IV engine management module cover
24 Mass air flow sensor
25 Ignition module
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3 Engine oil and filter renewal
1
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration) . You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work. 3
Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a
hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc. 4
If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ). Remove the front right-
hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
This Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.
The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4
The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”).
c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).
d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).
e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and inspect the HT leads (Section 21).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 24).
g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture settings - where
applicable (Section 9).
h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 30).
i) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:
Secondary operations
All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,
4C and 4D).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).
Maintenance procedures1•9
3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first
Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the
engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.
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engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow
warm air from the exhaust manifold area to
enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as
described, it is functioning correctly (see
illustration) .
21 If the flap fails to operate as described,
check the condition of the vacuum pipe and
its connections, and check that the flap valve
has not seized. If these are in order, either the
temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is
faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must
be obtained. Refit the main air duct on
completion.
25 Emission control system
check
1
General
1Of the emission control systems that may
be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation
system and the evaporative emission control
systems require regular checking, and even
then, the components of these systems
require minimal attention.
2 Should it be felt that the other systems are
not functioning correctly, the advice of a
dealer should be sought.
Crankcase ventilation system
3 The function of the crankcase ventilation
system is to reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the air
cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to
be burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a
vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh
filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil
separator/engine breather valve connector on
the underside of the air cleaner housing. A further hose leads from the adapter/filter to
the inlet manifold.
5
On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type
crankcase ventilation system is used, the
function of which is basically the same as that
described for the HCS engine types, but the
breather hose connects directly to the rocker
cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to
the rocker cover in certain applications (see
illustration) .
6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is
similar to that used on the earlier (CVH)
engines on which these engines are based,
but with revisions to the hose arrangement to
suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel
injection system layout.
7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation
system main components are the oil
separator mounted on the front (radiator) side
of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set
in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-
hand upper end. The associated pipework
consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two
flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a
union on the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold, and a crankcase breather hose
connecting the cylinder head cover to the air
cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the
air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn
directly into the engine.
8 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.
9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the
oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good
condition, and not blocked up with sludge.
10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and
clean the cap if necessary by brushing the
inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing
through with light pressure from an air line.
Renew the cap if it is badly congested.
11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing
is clear and undamaged. 12
Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to
allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only,
so that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil
separator or the PCV valve are thought to be
blocked, they must be renewed (see Chap-
ter 4E). In such a case, however, there is
nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out
the blockage using a suitable solvent. The
PCV valve should rattle when shaken.
13 While the air filter element is removed (see
Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on
Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter
from its location in the rear right-hand corner
of the housing (see illustration) . If the foam is
badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be
cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent,
and allowed to dry before being refitted.
Evaporative emission control
systems
14 Refer to the checks contained in Chap-
ter 4E.
26 Automatic transmission fluid renewal
1
1The automatic transmission fluid should
only be changed when the transmission is
cold.
2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely
support it on axle stands, but make sure that
it is level.
3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain
plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove
the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the
draining operation.
4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain
plug in the transmission sump pan, then
unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain
into the container.
5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take
quite some time) clean the drain plug, then
refit it together with a new seal and tighten it
securely.
6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in
the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with
1•24Every 30 000 miles or three years
25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner housing on Zetec engines25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines
24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe CVH engine
A Flap open (cool air inlet closed)
B Warm air inlet
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the specified type of fluid. It is essential that
no dirt is introduced into the transmission
during this operation.
7Depending on the extent to which the fluid
was allowed to drain, it is possible that the
amount of fluid required when filling the
transmission may be more than the specified
amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre
pressures” ). However, due to fluid remaining in
the system, it is more likely that less than the
specified amount will be required. Add about
half the specified amount, then run the engine
up to its normal operating temperature and
check the level on the dipstick. When the level
approaches the maximum mark, proceed as
detailed in Section 20 to check the level and
complete the final topping-up as described.
27 Handbrake adjustment
3
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Fully
release the handbrake.
2 Check that the handbrake cables are
correctly routed and secured by the retaining
clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle.
3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment
by measuring the amount of movement
possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers.
These are located on the inside face of each
rear brake backplate (see illustration) . Thetotal movement of the two plungers combined
should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the
movement measured is outside of this
tolerance, the handbrake is in need of
adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the
position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve.
4
When adjustment to the handbrake is
necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking
pin will be required, and this must therefore
be obtained before making the adjustment.
5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it
is fully released, then firmly apply the
footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear
brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic
adjusters. Extract the locking pin from
the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then
turn the sleeve to set the combined move-
ment of the plungers within the tolerance range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the
locking nut by hand as tight as is possible
(two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve.
Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench,
and turn it a further two clicks (maximum).
6
Secure the adjustment by inserting the new
lock pin.
7 Check that the operation of the handbrake
is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the
ground, apply the handbrake and remove the
chocks from the front wheels.
28 Front wheel alignment check
4
Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•25
27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking
pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger
located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 40 000 miles
29 Timing belt renewal
4
Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as
applicable.
Every 60 000 miles
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do
not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present.
While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a
suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
1
On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel
filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line.
The filter is located in the engine compartment
either below and behind the battery, or on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same
for both locations. The filter performs a vital
role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter
out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you
have reason to suspect that it may be
clogged. It is always unpleasant working
under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing
clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will
make working conditions more tolerable, and
will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel
system.
2
Depressurise the fuel system as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position
a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to
catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak
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up the fuel when the feed and outlet pipe
unions are disconnected.
4On models without quick-release couplings
on the fuel lines, slowly slacken the fuel feed
pipe union allowing the pressure in the fuel
pipe to reduce. When the pressure is fully
released, disconnect the fuel feed and outlet
pipe unions.
5 On models with quick-release couplings on
the fuel lines, release the fuel feed and outlet
pipe unions from the filter, by squeezing
together the protruding locking lugs on each
union, and carefully pulling the union off the
filter stub (see illustration) . Where the unions are colour-coded, the feed and outlet pipes
cannot be confused; where both unions are
the same colour, note carefully which pipe is
connected to which filter stub, and ensure that
they are correctly reconnected on refitting.
6
Noting the arrows and/or other markings on
the filter showing the direction of fuel flow
(towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp
bolt and withdraw the filter from the car (see
illustrations) . Note that the filter will still
contain fuel; care should be taken, to avoid
spillage and to minimise the risk of fire.
7 On installation, slide the filter into its clamp
so that the arrow marked on it faces the correct way, then reconnect and tighten the
pipe unions or slide each pipe union on to its
(correct) respective filter stub, and press it
down until the locking lugs click into their
groove. Tighten the clamp bolt carefully, until
the filter is just prevented from moving; do not
overtighten, or the filter casing may be
crushed.
8
Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the
battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition
on and off five times, to pressurise the
system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage
around the filter unions before lowering the
vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.
1•26Every 60 000 miles
30.6b Removing the bulkhead mounted fuel filter. Clamp bolt (arrowed)30.6a Fuel filter location below battery
showing clamp bolt (arrowed). Note fuel flow direction arrows on filter body30.5 Releasing the fuel pipe unions fromthe filter on models with quick-release couplings
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 3 years
31 Brake fluid renewal
3
The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by syphoning,
and allowance should be made for the old
fluid to be removed from the circuit when
bleeding a section of the circuit.
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the engine/
transmission.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
7 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration) . Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
8 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end.
c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
9 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the
cylinder head lifting eye.
10 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and
tube, or swing them out of the way.
11 Unscrew the pulse-air filter housing
retaining bolt, then disconnect its vacuum
hose.
12 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).14
Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 8 and 11); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
16 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 7.
17 Working in the reverseof the sequence
shown in illustration 12.28a, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so mustbe renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
18 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face. Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.
Preparation for refitting
19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
20
Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
22 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
23 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from the front edge (see
illustration) .
24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11
12.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing12.7b Unplug connectors (arrowed) todisconnect ignition coil wiring12.7a Unplug engine wiring loom
connector alongside the inlet manifold
12.23 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is
upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket on dowels “C”
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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8Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
9 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiring
connector from the power steering pressure
switch (where fitted), then disconnect the
earth cable from the engine lifting eye. Refit
the bolt after disconnecting the cable.
10 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the
vacuum hoses as follows:
a) From the rear of the inlet manifold.
b) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose - from the inlet manifold (see
Chapter 9 for details).
c) While you are there, trace the vacuum line
from the pulse-air filter housing, and
disconnect it from the pulse-air solenoid
valve.
d) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t
get damaged as the engine/transmission
is removed.
11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
(see
illustration) . Disconnect the speedometer
drive cable (see Chapter 12) and secure it
clear of the engine/transmission.
12 Disconnect the earth strap at the top of
the engine/transmission flange, and the
adjacent bolt securing the wiring harness clip.
13 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see
Chapter 6).
14 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the engine
wiring connectors as follows (see
illustrations) :
a) The multi-plug from the E-DIS ignition
coil.
b) The radio interference suppressor from
the DIS ignition coil.
c) The reversing light switch multi-plug.
d) The engine main wiring loom multi-plug
behind the E-DIS ignition coil.
e) The crankshaft speed/position sensor and vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs.
f) The oxygen sensor multi-plug.
15 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and lift it clear.
16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
17 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected and catching as much
as possible of the escaping coolant in the
drain tray, disconnect the cooling system
hoses and pipes as follows:
a) The coolant hoses at the thermostat housing. b)
The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe
lower connection.
c) The radiator top and bottom hoses.
18 Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump pressure pipe clips, release the
unions and disconnect the pump pressure
and return lines. Collect the fluid in a
suitable container, and plug the disconnected
unions.
19 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
20 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and
disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
and alternator.
22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector.
23 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring
and disconnect the selector cable (see
Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the gearchange
linkage and transmission support rod from the
rear of the transmission - make alignment
marks as they are disconnected (see
illustrations) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•11
5.14b . . . the radio interference
suppressor . . .5.14a Disconnect the wiring multi-plugfrom the ignition coil . . .5.11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
5.24b . . . and transmission support rod5.24a Disconnect the gearchange linkage . . .5.14c . . . and the reversing light switch
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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http://vnx.su

container which can be sealed (see
illustration) . Where quick-release couplings
are used on the fuel hoses, release the
protruding locking lugs on each union, by
squeezing them together and carefully pulling
the coupling apart. Note that the fuel supply
hose couplings are identified by a white
colour band and the return hose couplings by
a yellow colour band.
6 Disconnect the filler neck sensing pipe
connection from the rear of the tank (see
illustration) .
7 Support beneath the tank to hold it in
position and remove its four securing bolts
(see illustration) .
8 Partially lower the fuel tank and disconnect
the ventilation tube from the tank top surface
and also disconnect the sender unit multi-
plug. The filler pipe should release from its
fuel tank seal location as the tank is
withdrawn.
Inspection
9 Whilst removed, the fuel tank can be
inspected for damage or deterioration.
Removal of the sender unit (see Section 9) will
allow a partial inspection of the interior. If the
tank is contaminated with sediment or water,
swill it out with clean petrol. Do not under any
circumstances undertake any repairs on a
leaking or damaged fuel tank; this work must
be carried out by a professional who has
experience in this critical and potentially-
dangerous work.
10 Whilst the fuel tank is removed from the
vehicle, it should not be placed in an area
where sparks or open flames could ignite the
fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially
careful inside garages where a natural-gas
type appliance is located, because the pilot
light could cause an explosion.
11 Check the condition of the filler pipe seal
in the fuel tank, and renew it if necessary.
Refitting
All models
12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Apply a light smear of grease to the
filler pipe seal, to ease fitting. Ensure that all
connections are securely fitted. Where quick-
release fuel couplings are fitted, press them together until the locking lugs snap into their
groove. If evidence of contamination was
found, do not return any previously-drained
fuel to the tank unless it is carefully filtered first.
9
Fuel gauge sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Ford specify the use of their service tool
23-014 (a large box spanner with projecting
teeth to engage the fuel gauge sender unit
retaining ring’s slots) for this task. While
alternatives are possible, in view of the difficulty
experienced in removing and refitting the
sender unit, owners are strongly advised to
obtain the correct tool before starting work. The
help of an assistant will be required. Refer to the
warning note in Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank as described in
Section 8.
2 Engage the special tool into the sender unit
then carefully turn the sender unit and release
it from the top of the tank.
Refitting
3 Refit the sender unit in the reverse order of
removal. Be sure to fit a new seal, and
lubricate it with a smear of grease to prevent it
from distorting when fitting the sender unit.
10 Fuel tank ventilation tube -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 The fuel tank ventilation tube runs from the
top surface of the fuel tank to the combined roll-
over/anti-trickle-fill valve assembly mounted in
the left-hand rear wheelarch (see illustration).
Its purpose is to eliminate any possibility of
vacuum or pressure build-up in the fuel tank.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the left-hand rear roadwheel.
4 Support the fuel tank from underneath on a
suitable jack, using a large thick sheet of
board to spread the weight, then undo and
remove the four fuel tank securing bolts.
5 Lower the fuel tank slightly in such a manner
so as to allow access to disconnect the
ventilation tube from the tank top surface.
Ensure that the fuel tank does not foul or strain
any adjacent components as it is lowered;
take appropriate action, as necessary.
6 Disconnect the ventilation tube from the
combined roll-over/anti-trickle-fill valve, release
the tube from its retaining clips and remove.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the fuel tank filler
pipe is located correctly with the tank.
11 Fuel tank filler pipe -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank as described in
Section 8.
4A•6 Fuel system – carburettor engines
10.1 Combined roll-over anti-trickle-fill valve assembly
A Tube ventilating to atmosphere
B Ventilation tube from fuel tank
8.7 Fuel tank securing bolts (arrowed)8.6 Filler neck sensing pipe connection at the rear of the fuel tank
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
8.5 Fuel feed and return pipe connections
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