gas mileage FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

complete turn, and all the markings should
now align.
7With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the crankshaft pulley cover,
lower the vehicle and refit the upper timing
belt cover.
4 Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as necessary for access as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the rocker cover.
3 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
described in Section 7.
4 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage and from the adjuster
bracket above the rocker cover. Position the
cable out of the way.
5 Where applicable, disconnect the choke
cable from the carburettor, referring to
Chapter 4A for details.
6 Unscrew and remove the rocker cover
retaining bolts and washers, then lift the cover
from the cylinder head. Note that a new
rocker cover gasket will be needed on
refitting.
Refitting
7 Before refitting the rocker cover, clean the
mating surfaces of both the cylinder head and
the cover.
8 Locate the new gasket in position, then fit
the cover retaining bolts and washers. Ensure
that the grooves in the plate washers are
facing upwards as they are fitted (see
illustrations) . Tighten the cover retaining
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
Refer to Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting
the accelerator cable, choke cable, air inlet
components and air cleaner (as applicable).
9 Refit the timing belt cover and reconnect
the battery earth lead.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism, to allow for the
expansion of the various components as the
engine reaches normal operating
temperature. On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
“tappet” clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were
allowed to be too slack, the engine would be
very noisy, its power output would suffer, and
its fuel consumption would increase. If the
clearances were allowed to be too tight, the
engine’s power output would be reduced, and
the valves and their seats could be severely
damaged. These engines employ hydraulic tappets
which use the lubricating system’s oil
pressure to automatically take up the
clearance between each camshaft lobe and
its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is
no need for regular checking and adjustment
of the valve clearances. However, it is
essential that only good-quality oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification is
used in the engine, and that this oil is always
changed at the recommended intervals. If this
advice is not followed, the oilways and
tappets may become clogged with particles of
dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil,
so that the system cannot work properly;
ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail,
and expensive repairs may be required. On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets; the valve components, therefore,
may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,
and then quieten. This is a normal state of
affairs, and is nothing to worry about,
provided that all tappets quieten quickly and
stay quiet. After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve components may
“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine’s
top-end components and bearing surfaces.
While this is only to be expected, care must
be taken not to damage the engine under
these circumstances - avoid high-speed
running until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the noise ceases.
Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm
until the tappets are fully charged with oil and
the noise has ceased.
If the valve components are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top
end after the engine has warmed up to normal
operating temperature, take the vehicle to a
Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on
the mileage covered and the usage to which
each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may
be noisier than others; only a good mechanic
experienced in these engines can tell if the
noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage,
or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s
operation is faulty, it must be renewed
(Section 11).
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Unbolt and remove the cover from the
underside of the crankshaft pulley.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
5 If timing belt renewal is also intended, set
the engine at TDC as described in Section 3
before removing the crankshaft pulley and
retaining bolt.
6 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as
the pulley bolt is loosened off, remove the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5A, and
then lock the starter ring gear using a suitable
lever (see illustration) .
2B•4 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
6.6 Using a suitable bar to lock the
flywheel ring gear4.8b Rocker cover retaining bolts and plate washers4.8a Fitting a new gasket to the rocker cover
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9Align the pump gear flats with those on the
crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that
the sump mating faces of the oil pump and
the base of the crankcase are flush each side,
then tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting. Remove the
protective guide (see illustrations) .
10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump,
using a new gasket and tighten to the
specified torque.
11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end
of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key
into position in the groove in the crankshaft.
The key must be located with its flat edge
parallel with the line of the crankshaft, to
ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides
fully into position as it is being refitted.
12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the
timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt
pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier
Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the
drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.
13 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.
15 Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
3
Dismantling
1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotor-
type, driven from the front end of the
crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is being reconditioned, it is recommended that a
new oil pump is fitted.
2
To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove
the pump from the engine (Section 14), then
undo the retaining screws and remove the
cover plate (see illustration) . Remove the O-
ring seal.
Inspection
3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump
housing, then visually inspect the various
components for signs of excessive wear and
scoring. Check the pump components for
wear using feeler gauges in the same manner
as that described in Part A of this Chapter,
Section 13. Refer to the Specifications at the
start of this Chapter for specific details.
Reassembly
4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that
the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are
located with the corresponding indented
matchmarks facing the same way (see
illustration) .
16Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
4
Front oil seal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt (Section 8) and crankshaft sprocket,
Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 9).
5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal
from the front face of the oil pump housing
(see illustration) . To withdraw the seal, a
hooked tool will be required; if available, use
Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to
damage the oil pump housing during removal.
As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of
the seal in its housing.
6 Clean the oil pump housing and the
crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft front stub with
clean engine oil.
7 The oil seal should be drawn into position
using the Ford special tool No 21-093A.
Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter,
with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers.
Do not hammer the seal into position. To
protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the front of the crankshaft,
over the journal shoulder.
8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the
special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw
the plastic protector. Check that the
crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit
the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket.
Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the
timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as
described in the appropriate Sections earlier
in this Chapter.
9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
10 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery.
Rear oil seal
11 With the engine or transmission removed
from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch
as described in Chapter 6.
12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 18.
13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a
suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from
2B•12 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
16.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from
below (arrowed)15.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks (arrowed)15.2 Oil pump cover plate retainingscrews (arrowed)
14.9b With the oil pump refitted, removethe protective guide (arrowed)14.9a Refit the oil pump
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