instrument panel FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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Ambient Ambient
temperature temperature
abovebelow
25°C (77°F) 25°C (77°F)
Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250
Fully-discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
Note that the specific gravity readings
assume an electrolyte temperature of
15°C (60°F); for every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C
(60°F) subtract 0.007. For every 10°C (18°F)
above 15°C (60°F) add 0.007.
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -
testing
4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that the doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a
reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
7 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.
Standard and low maintenance
battery - charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to
4 amps and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four hour period.
9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
11
While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).
Maintenance-free battery -
charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
12 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standard
type, the time taken being dependent on the
extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up to three days.
13 A constant voltage type charger is
required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9
to 14.9 volts with a charger current below
25 amps. Using this method, the battery
should be usable within three hours, giving a
voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a
partially discharged battery and, as
mentioned, full charging can take
considerably longer.
14 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (condition reading less than
12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Ford
dealer or local automotive electrician, as the
charge rate is higher and constant supervision
during charging is necessary.
4 Battery -
removal and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
Removal
1 The battery is located forward on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment, on a
platform welded to the vehicle structure.
2 Undo the retaining nut, then detach the
earth leads from the stud of the battery
negative (earth) terminal post. This is the
terminal to disconnect before working on, or
disconnecting, any electrical component on
the vehicle.
3 Pivot up the plastic cover from the positive
terminal, then unscrew the positive lead
retaining nut on the terminal. Detach the
positive lead from the terminal.
4 Release the clamp securing the battery to
its platform and remove it. Lift the battery
from its location, keeping it in an upright
position to avoid the possibility of corrosive
electrolyte spilling onto the paintwork.
5 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps
and the battery casing. If the bulkhead is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint with
reference to Chapter 1. 6
If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear the
battery terminals with a petroleum-based jelly
prior to reconnecting. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.
5 Charging system - testing
2
Note:Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
1 If the ignition warning light fails to
illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first check the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check that the
warning light bulb has not blown, and that
the bulbholder is secure in its location in the
instrument panel. If the light still fails to
illuminate, check the continuity of the
warning light feed wire from the alternator to
the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the
alternator is at fault and should be renewed
or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned
(see Chapter 1) and that the alternator
connections are secure. If all is so far
satisfactory, have the alternator checked by
an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the
reading should be approximately 13.5 to
14.6 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.
Starting and charging systems 5A•3
5A
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needed not to spill the fluid onto the hands -
wear suitable protective gloves. Plug or cap
the disconnected pipes and valve openings,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fluid loss.
4Unbolt the valve from its mounting bracket,
unhook the linkage from the rear axle, then
withdraw the valve (see illustration). The
intermediate bracket may be unbolted if
required.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; adjust the valve as described in
Section 22, then bleed the complete hydraulic
system as described in Section 13. Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
22 Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment
2
Note:To adjust the valve accurately, the
vehicle must be at a known rear axle loading -
owners who cannot determine the loading
with sufficient accuracy must have this check
made by a Ford dealer or similar expert.
1 For this operation, the vehicle must be
raised for access underneath at the rear, but
must be standing on its wheels. Suitable
ramps (or an inspection pit) will therefore be
required. If positioning the vehicle on a pair of
ramps, chock the front roadwheels.
2 Measure the distance between the inner
radius of the linkage’s hooked end and the
first shoulder (see illustration) . If the
dimension is not as specified for the axle
loading, adjustment is required.
3 To adjust the setting, slacken the locknut
on the valve linkage, move the rod until the
setting is correct, then tighten the locknut
securely (see illustration) . Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
23 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information
A mechanically-driven, two-channel anti-
lock braking system is available as a factory-
fitted option on certain model variants within
the Fiesta range.
The system comprises four main
components; two modulators, one for each
brake circuit, and two rear axle load-
apportioning valves, again, one for each brake
circuit. Apart from the additional hydraulic
piping, the remainder of the braking system is
the same as for conventional models. The modulators are located in the engine
compartment with one mounted on each side
of the transmission, directly above the
driveshaft inner constant velocity joints. Each
modulator contains a shaft which actuates a
flywheel by means of a ball and ramp clutch. A rubber toothed belt is used to drive the
modulator shaft from the driveshaft inner
constant velocity joint.
During driving and under normal braking
the modulator shaft and the flywheel rotate
together and at the same speed through the
engagement of a ball and ramp clutch. In this
condition hydraulic pressure from the master
cylinder passes to the modulators and then to
each brake in the conventional way. In the
event of a front wheel locking the modulator
shaft rotation will be less than that of the
flywheel and the flywheel will overrun the ball
and ramp clutch. This causes the flywheel to
slide on the modulator shaft, move inward and
operate a lever which in turn opens a dump
valve. Hydraulic pressure to the locked brake
is released via a de-boost piston allowing the
wheel to once again revolve. Fluid passed
through the dump valve is returned to the
master cylinder reservoir via the modulator
return hoses. At the same time hydraulic
pressure from the master cylinder causes a
pump piston to contact an eccentric cam on
the modulator shaft. The flywheel is then
decelerated at a controlled rate by the
flywheel friction clutch. When the speed of the
modulator shaft and flywheel are once again
equal the dump valve closes and the cycle
repeats. This complete operation takes place
many times a second until the vehicle stops or
the brakes are released. The load-apportioning valves are mounted
on a common bracket attached to the rear
body, just above the rear axle twist beam
location, and are actuated by linkages
attached to the axle beam. The valves
regulate hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes,
in accordance with vehicle load and attitude,
so that the braking force available at the rear
brakes will always be lower than that available
at the front. A belt-break warning switch is fitted to the
cover which surrounds each modulator
drivebelt. The switch contains an arm which is
in contact with the drivebelt at all times. If the
belt should break, or if the adjustment of
the belt is too slack, the arm will move out
closing the switch contacts and informing the
driver via an instrument panel warning light.
24 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal
and refitting
3
Modulator
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
3 Disconnect the modulator return hoses
from the master cylinder reservoir, collecting
any fluid spillage from the hoses in a suitable
tray. The modulator return hose unions should
be disconnected by first pushing the hose
into the reservoir, then retaining the collar
against the reservoir body whilst withdrawing
the hose. Note that the hoses are colour
coded - the left-hand modulator has a black
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the forward section of the reservoir,
whilst the right-hand modulator has a grey
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the rear section of the reservoir.
9•14 Braking system
22.3 Light-laden valve linkage adjustment locknut (arrowed)
22.2 Light-laden valve adjustment details
With rear axle load at 400 kg, “X” should be 147 mm
With rear axle load at 850 kg,
“X” should be 166 mm
21.4 Light-laden valve mounting bolts (arrowed)
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31Remove the seat belt upper anchor bolt
cover and undo the bolt.
32 Carefully prise up the seat belt guide from
its trim panel location, and remove it from the
seat belt. Allow the seat belt to retract through
the trim panel, clamping a clothes peg, or
similar item, onto its end to prevent it being
fully wound into the retractor.
33 Manoeuvre the trim panel out from under
the scuff plate, slackening or removing the
rearward scuff plate retaining screws if
necessary.
Refitting
34 Engage the trim panel under the scuff
plate, and refit and tighten the scuff plate
retaining screws as necessary.
35 Pull the seat belt through the trim panel,
refit the guide and press the panel onto the
body to re-engage the trim clips.
36 Refit the upper seat belt anchor,
tightening the bolt to the specified torque, and
refit its cover. Ensure that the anchor is free to
rotate.
37 Refit the plastic stud and the screw to the
lower and upper rear corners of the trim,
respectively.
38 Refit the seat belt to the slide bar, then
refit the slide bar by reversing the method of
removal. Ensure that the seat belt is not
twisted as it is located on the slide bar, and
that the bolt is tightened to the specified
torque.
39 Refit the rear seat cushion by reversing
the method of removal.
40 Press the door aperture weatherstrip back
into position.
Load compartment trim panels
(Courier models)
Removal
41 Using either a trim clip releasing tool or a
screwdriver with a broad flat blade, and
protecting the paintwork and trim with a layer
of rag, extract the clips securing the panel and
withdraw it.
Refitting
42 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
43 Parcel shelf support/
loudspeaker housing -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the rear seat belt and retractor unit
from the appropriate side of the vehicle, as
described in Section 41.
2 Disconnect the luggage compartment
(courtesy) light, where fitted, by prising the
light assembly from its location using a thin
flat-bladed screwdriver, then twist the
bulbholder anti-clockwise to remove.
3 Detach the loudspeaker, where fitted, by
removing its retaining screws, disengaging its
locating tags and disconnecting its multi-plug. 4
Fold the seat backrest forward. Remove the
parcel shelf support/rear loudspeaker housing
retaining screws, then manoeuvre it out from
under the quarter panel trim as necessary, to
clear the seat backrest catch striker pin.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
44 Passenger grab handle -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Carefully prise up the trim flaps on either
end of the handle to expose the two mounting
screws.
2 Undo the mounting screws and remove the
grab handle.
Refitting
3 Refitting is the reverse procedure to
removal.
45 Centre console -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Carefully prise up the console switches, as
necessary, using a flat-bladed screwdriver,
then disconnect their multi-plugs.
3 Unscrew the gear lever knob, then raise the
gaiter from its location and lift it off over the
gear lever (see illustration) . A similar method
is also used to remove the selector cover on
automatic transmission equipped vehicles.
4 Undo the four screws securing the centre
console to the floor pan (see illustration). On
automatic transmission equipped models,
ensure that the bulb assembly does not
restrict centre console removal. Remove the
centre console.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the gaiter (or
selector cover) locates correctly to the centre
console (as applicable).
46 Facia - removal and refitting
4
Removal
Warning: On vehicles fitted with
a passenger’s air bag, seek the
advice of a Ford dealer
concerning safety implications when
removing the facia assembly.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the upper and lower steering
column shrouds, and the steering wheel as
described in Chapter 10.
3 Remove the two screws securing the
instrument cluster bezel from its underside,
and carefully detach the bezel (see Chap-
ter 12).
4 Disconnect the steering column multi-
function switch assembly and remove its
single retaining screw. Remove the assembly.
5 Disconnect the ignition loom multi-plug on
the steering column.
6 Disconnect the brake pedal stop-light
switch loom connection.
7 Disconnect the speedometer cable at the
transmission casing, to allow easier removal
of the instrument cluster.
8 Remove the four screws securing the
instrument cluster to its location, then
carefully pull it out to allow access to the
speedometer cable and multi-plug
connections. Disconnect the speedometer
cable and multi-plug, then remove the
instrument cluster from the vehicle (see
Chapter 12).
9 Remove the radio assembly and
loudspeaker balance control, where fitted (see
Chapter 12).
10 Remove the centre console, where fitted,
as described in Section 45.
11 Pull the heater fan motor control knob off,
11•20 Bodywork and fittings
45.4 Centre console securing screws
(arrowed)45.3 Removing the gear lever gaiter fromthe centre console
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then move the air distribution and
temperature controls fully to the right. Unclip
and remove the heater slide facia towards the
left-hand side of the vehicle, removing the
slide control knobs only as necessary, and
disconnecting its bulbholder (bayonet type) as
it is withdrawn.
12Remove the ashtray, then undo the three
screws from the base of the centre panel (see
illustration) . Detach the centre panel,
disconnecting the cigarette lighter
connections as it is withdrawn.
13 Squeeze the two release tabs together on
the heater fan motor control switch, and
remove it, disconnecting its multi-plug as it is
withdrawn. Remove the three heater control
panel securing screws (see Chapter 3).
14 Remove the switches from the centre
panel and disconnect their multi-plugs.
15 Using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, prise
the clock from its location and disconnect its
multi-plug, as applicable.
16 Remove the fusebox lid, then remove the
two retaining screws and detach the fusebox
from the facia. 17
Disconnect the earth strap on the right-
hand side of the steering column mounting
bracket, by removing its securing bolt, and
remove any cable-ties fitted.
18 Open both front doors and disconnect the
multi-plugs in the A-pillars, where fitted, by
squeezing their ears and withdrawing.
19 Detach the door aperture weatherstrips
from the A-pillar and along the base of the
door aperture, on both front doors.
20 Remove both front door courtesy light
switches, disconnecting their loom
connections as they are withdrawn.
21 Remove the sill scuff plate retaining
screws on both sides of the vehicle.
22 Release the wiring loom from its securing
clips, under the sill scuff plates.
23 Remove the right-hand adjustable side
vent from the facia by carefully prising it out,
using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, then
release the wiring loom loop from its facia
retaining clip through the resultant opening
(see illustration) .
24 Prise up the cover obscuring the central
facia retaining screw, using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver then remove the seven facia
retaining screws
(see illustration) .
25 Gently ease the facia from its location,
having ensured that all wires are clear to
move, then remove the cable-ties securing
the loom to the facia. Ensure that the loom is
free, then remove the facia from the vehicle.
The aid of an assistant, at this stage, is
recommended.
Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, noting the following points. Secure
the wiring loom loop to its clip and cable -tie
before refitting the facia retaining screws,
tightening its cable-tie, along with the rest,
when the viewing loom connections have
been pulled out through their relevant facia
openings. New cable-ties should be used.
Ensure that the multi-plugs seat correctly in
their A-pillar locations. When refitting the
instrument cluster, ensure that the tape mark
on the speedometer cable is positioned at the
bulkhead grommet (as applicable).
Bodywork and fittings 11•21
46.24 Facia retaining screw locations (arrowed)46.23 Wiring loom loop securing
arrangements on reverse side of facia
A Retaining clip B Cable tie46.12 Facia centre panel retaining screws (arrowed)
11
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12
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Fuses - pre-1992 models
Main fuse board:
No Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
1 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Electronic engine control system
2 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Interior light, cigarette lighter, clock and radio memory
3 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system
4 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window element
5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand side lights and rear fog light
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand side lights
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand dipped beam
9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand dipped beam
10 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand main beam and right-hand auxiliary driving light
11 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand main beam and left-hand auxiliary driving light
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan motor and reversing light
13 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan motor
14 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i only)
15 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Horn
16 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Wiper motor and windscreen/tailgate washer pump
17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Brake stop lights, instrument illumination and instrument warning
18 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electrically operated windows
19 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electric fuel pump
20 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor (vehicles with catalytic converter)
21 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand direction indicators
22 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand direction indicators
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Air bag (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Air bag (passenger’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . \
. . . . . . . 29
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Anti-theft systems - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight and auxiliary light beam alignment - checking and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 8
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 10
“Lights-on” warning module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Screen washer fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Speaker balance control joystick - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 19
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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BulbsWattage
Headlight (halogen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . H4, 60/55
Sidelight (front) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 5
Direction indicators (main) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Side direction indicator repeaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Auxiliary driving and foglights (S and XR2i) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3, 55
Stop/tail light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 21/5
Rear foglight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 21
Number plate light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 10
Interior light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 10
Luggage compartment light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Instrument warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
1.3 or 2.6
Panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1.3 or 2.6
Cigarette lighter illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4
Automatic transmission selector illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Lubricants
Grease for windscreen wiper linkage and pivots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To Ford specification SAM-1C-911-A
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Wiper motor to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 8 to 9 6 to 7
Wiper motor bracket to bulkhead/tailgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Windscreen wiper crank to driving shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24 16 to 18
Windscreen/tailgate wiper arm retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 18 12 to 13
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Windscreen/tailgate washer reservoir securing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 3.5 2 to 3
Headlight retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 5.4 to 7.0 4 to 5
Tail light securing nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1.5 to 2.5 1 to 2
Auxiliary light retaining nut (S models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 to 9.2 5 to 7
Horn bracket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 33 18 to 24
Starter inhibitor switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 9 to 14 7 to 10
Body electrical systems 12•3
12
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid battery, which is charged by the
engine-driven alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, ignition system,
alternator, and starter motor can be found in
Chapter 5A and B.
All models from 1994 onwards are fitted
with a driver’s air bag, which is designed to
prevent serious chest and head injuries to the
driver during an accident. A similar bag for the
front seat passenger is also available. The
combined sensor and electronics for the air
bag is located next to the steering column
inside the vehicle, and contains a back-up
capacitor, crash sensor, decelerometer,
safety sensor, integrated circuit and
microprocessor. The air bag is inflated by a
gas generator, which forces the bag out of the module cover in the centre of the steering
wheel. A “clock spring” ensures that a good
electrical connection is maintained with the air
bag at all times - as the steering wheel is
turned in each direction, the spring winds and
unwinds.
An anti-theft alarm system is available on
later models, and is triggered if the vehicle is
broken into through the doors, bonnet, or
tailgate. The alarm will also be triggered if the
ignition or audio equipment is tampered with.
Additionally, from the 1994 model year
onwards, a Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
is fitted. This system, (which works
independently of the standard alarm) prevents
the engine from being started unless a
specific code, programmed into the ignition
key, is recognised by the PATS transceiver.
Precautions
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual and
in Chapter 5A, Section 1.
Caution: Prior to working on any
component in the electrical system, the
battery negative lead should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires. If a
radio/cassette player with anti-theft
security code is fitted, refer to the
information given in the reference sections
of this manual before disconnecting the
battery.
2 Electrical fault-finding
-
general information
2
Note: Refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter
before starting work. The following tests relate
to testing of the main electrical circuits, and
should not be used to test delicate electronic
circuits (such as engine management
systems), particularly where an electronic
control unit is used. Also refer to the
precautions given in Chapter 5A, Section 1.
General
1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
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wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
manual.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting if other
components related to the circuit are
operating properly. If several components or
circuits fail at one time, the problem is likely to
be related to a shared fuse or earth
connection.
3 Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked
in order to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests); an ohmmeter (to
measure resistance and check for continuity);
a battery and set of test leads; and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
Warning: Under no
circumstances may live
measuring instruments such as
ohmmeters, voltmeters or a bulb
and test leads be used to test any of the
air bag circuitry or components. Any
testing in these areas must be left to a
Ford dealer as there is a danger of
activating the system if the correct
procedures are not followed.
5 To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6 Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working.
8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
9
To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or the negative lead of a
voltmeter either to the battery negative
terminal or to a known good earth.
10 Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse. At this point, battery
voltage should be present, unless the lead
from the battery or the fuse itself is faulty
(bearing in mind that some circuits are live
only when the ignition switch is moved to a
particular position).
11 Switch on the circuit, then connect the
tester lead to the connector nearest the circuit
switch on the component side.
12 If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
the circuit between the relevant connector
and the switch is problem-free.
13 Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
14 When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
15 To check for a short-circuit, first
disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads
are the components which draw current from
a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating
elements, etc).
16 Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
17 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
18 If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that there is a
short-circuit.
19 If no voltage is present during this test,
but the fuse still blows with the load(s)
reconnected, this indicates an internal fault in
the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
20 The battery negative terminal is
connected to “earth” - the metal of the
engine/transmission and the vehicle body -
and many systems are wired so that they only
receive a positive feed, the current returning
via the metal of the car body. This means that
the component mounting and the body form
part of that circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can therefore cause a range of
electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial failure. In
particular, lights may shine dimly (especially
when another circuit sharing the same earth
point is in operation), motors (eg wiper
motors or the radiator cooling fan motor) may
run slowly, and the operation of one circuit
may have an apparently-unrelated effect on
another. Note that on many vehicles, earth
straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/
transmission and the body, usually where
there is no metal-to-metal contact between
components, due to flexible rubber
mountings, etc.
21
To check whether a component is
properly earthed, disconnect the battery (refer
to Chapter 5A, Section 1) and connect one
lead of an ohmmeter to a known good earth
point. Connect the other lead to the wire or
earth connection being tested. The resistance
reading should be zero; if not, check the
connection as follows.
22 If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
both the bodyshell and the wire terminal (or
the component earth connection mating
surface) back to bare metal. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease, or by spraying on (at
regular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer
or a water-dispersant lubricant.
3 Fuses and relays -
general information
Note: It is important to note that the ignition
switch and the appropriate electrical circuit
must always be switched off before any of the
fuses (or relays) are removed and renewed.
1 The main fuse and relay board is located
below the facia panel to the right of the
steering wheel. The fuses can be inspected
and if necessary renewed, by removing the
hinged access cover. The remaining
additional fuses and relays (depending on
model) may be accessed by removing the two
fuse board retaining screws, releasing the
retaining lugs on either side of the main fuse
plate and withdrawing the fuse/relay board
downwards into the driver’s footwell. Each
fuse location is numbered - refer to the fuse
chart in the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter to check which circuits are protected
by each fuse. Plastic tweezers are attached to
12•4 Body electrical systems
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the bulbholder together and remove it (see
illustrations) .
22 All bulbs are of bayonet type fitting.
23 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Rear light cluster (Courier
models)
24 Working inside the load compartment,
unscrew the two black plastic nuts securing
the light cluster assembly. Withdraw the
assembly to the outside of the vehicle,
disconnecting the wiring from the bulbholder
(see illustrations) .
25 All bulbs are of bayonet type fitting.
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Number plate lights
27 Insert a thin flat-bladed screwdriver
between the light assembly and the bumper,
and carefully prise the light out. Use a rag, or
a piece of card, between the screwdriver and
the bumper, to prevent damage to the
bumper.
28 Detach the connections on the underside
of the light assembly.
29 Release the tab securing the light cover to
the bulbholder, and remove the cover (see
illustration) .
30 The bulb is a bayonet type fitting in its
holder.
31 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
6 Bulbs (interior lights) -
renewal
2
Instrument panel illumination
and warning lights
1 Refer to Section 10.
Automatic transmission selector
illumination
2Using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, prise
up the selector cover and remove it.
3 Pull the bulb assembly to release it from the
selector lever, then remove its cover. The bulb
is a bayonet fit in its holder (see illustrations).
4 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Hazard warning switch
5 The hazard warning light switch, an integral
part of the steering column multi-function
switch assembly, has a bulb cover which pulls
off. The bulb is removed by pulling it from its
location.
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Clock illumination
7 Carefully prise the clock out of its facia
location, as described in Section 13.
8 Twist the bulbholder and withdraw it from
the rear of the clock (see illustration). Note
12•8Body electrical systems
6.8 Withdrawing the clock illumination
bulb and its integral holder from the rear of
the clock6.3b . . . followed by the (bayonet fitting) bulb6.3a Remove the selector illumination bulbcover . . .
5.29 Release the number plate light
securing tab (arrowed) and separate the bulbholder and light cover5.24b . . . then withdraw the assembly to
the outside of the vehicle
5.24a On Courier models, unscrew the twoblack plastic nuts securing the rear light cluster assembly . . .5.21b . . . then having pressed its retaininglugs, withdraw the bulbholder for access to the bulbs5.21a Disconnect the ear light clustermulti-plug from the bulbholder . . .
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work should therefore be carried out by a
Ford dealer or service station with the
necessary facilities.
2Temporary adjustment can be made when
the headlight has been removed and refitted,
or to compensate for normal adjustment
whenever a heavy load is being carried. Turn
the adjustment screws at the rear of the
headlight unit to make the adjustment (see
illustration) .
3 Before making any adjustments to the
headlight settings, it is important that the tyre
pressures are correct, and that the vehicle is
standing on level ground. Bounce the front of
the vehicle a few times to settle the
suspension. Ideally, somebody of normal size
should sit in the driver’s seat during the
adjustment, and the vehicle should have a full
tank of fuel.
4 S model auxiliary lights are adjusted by
slackening the light retaining nuts and
swivelling the light assemblies (see
illustration 7.21) . Tighten the nuts upon
completion.
5 XR2i model auxiliary lights are individually
adjustable within their housings, provision
being made for both vertical and horizontal
adjustment of the driving lights, and vertical adjustment only of the foglights. Adjustment is
made via Torx-head captive screws on the
front of the housings
(see illustration 7.24) .
6 Whenever temporary adjustments are
made, the settings must be reset as soon as
possible once the vehicle is in normal use.
9 Instrument panel -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Disconnect the speedometer cable at the
transmission casing (see Section 11).
3 Remove the two screws securing the
instrument panel bezel from its underside.
Remove the bezel.
4 Remove the four screws securing the
instrument panel to its location, then carefully
pull it out to allow access to the speedometer
cable and multi-plug connections. Disconnect
the speedometer cable and multi-plug, then
remove the instrument panel from the vehicle
(see illustrations) .
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion check the function of all electrical
components.
10 Instrument panel
components -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the instrument panel as described
in Section 9.
Panel illumination and warning light
bulbs
2 All bulbholders are a bayonet fit, requiring a
“twist and withdraw” removal technique (see
illustration) . Bulbs cannot be removed from
their holders -they are renewed complete.
Printed circuit
3 Insert a thin flat-bladed screwdriver into the
multi-plug retainer and carefully unclip it,
having noted its orientation (see illustration).
4 Remove all panel illumination and warning
light bulbholders.
5 Using a suitable tool (a trim clip removal
tool is ideal), carefully prise the printed circuit
off its instrument terminals, and release it from
its retainers before removing.
Speedometer
6 Remove the two bulbholders on the top of
the panel assembly, and release their strip of
printed circuit from its retainers, so that the
instrument panel halves may be separated.
7 Separate the panel halves by releasing the
Body electrical systems 12•11
9.4b Disconnect the speedometer cable
from the rear of the instrument cluster . . .9.4a Instrument cluster securing screws (arrowed)8.2 Exploded view of the headlight unit
A Sidelight bulb holder
B Sidelight bulb
C Headlight bulb retainer
D Headlight bulb
E Bulb protective cap
F Horizontal adjustment screw
G Vertical adjustment screw
10.3 Unclipping the multi-plug retainer from the rear of the instrument cluster10.2 Removing a bulbholder from the rear of the instrument cluster (bayonet type
fitting)9.4c . . . then disconnect the multi-plug
12
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