ignition FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

Engine
Oil filter type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion C102
Valve clearances (cold):
SOHC:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.20 ±0.03 mm (0.008 ±0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 ±0.03 mm (0.010 ±0.001 in)
V6:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.40 mm (0.016 in)
Cooling system
Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.069 to 1.077
Note:Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system
Air filter element type:
1.8 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion W118
2.0 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion W152
2.0 litre and V6 (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion U507
Fuel filter type:
All models (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion L204
Ignition system
Spark plugs:
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC
2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC
2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
2.9 litre V6 with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
Spark plug electrode gap*:
Champion RF7YCC and RN7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 mm
Champion RF7YC and RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 mm
Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 mm
Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 mm
Champion RS9YCC and RS9YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 mm
Ignition HT lead set:
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 k ohms maximum per lead
Type:
1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion LS-09 boxed set
1.8 and 2.0 litre (Male distributor fitting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion LS-10 boxed set
*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.
Brakes
Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Tyres
Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 SR/TR/HR 14, 185/70 HR/TR/VR 14,195/65 HR 15, 205/60
VR 15
Tyre pressures: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .FrontRear
Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.8 bar (26 lbf/in
2)1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.1 bar (30 lbf/in2)2.9 bar (42 lbf/in2)
Note:Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier
for correct pressures if necessary.
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2816 to 21
Engine block coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
Spark plugs:
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to2815 to 21
2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2111 to 15
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 to 4022 to 30
2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2111 to 15
Manual gearbox filler/level and drain plugs:
N9 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2717 to 20
MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
Brake caliper slide bolts:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Roadwheel bolts (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
1•21
1
Specifications
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the Specifications and to illustration 44.11:
Stage 1 - Bolts 1 to 6
Stage 2 - Bolts 7 and 8
Stage 3 - Bolts 9 and 10
Stage 4 - Bolts 7 and 8 (again)
12No further tightening of the cylinder head
bolts is required.
13Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in the next Section.
1Fit the camshaft sprocket backplate and
sprocket. Insert the bolt, hold the camshaft or
sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified
torque. 2Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket with the ribs
towards the engine. Fit the sprocket bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque,
counterholding the sprocket with a bar
through one of the holes.
3Fit the crankshaft sprocket, chamfered side
inwards.
4Fit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt. If
the old belt is being refitted, observe the
previously noted running direction (see
illustration).
5Refit the guide washer and the crankshaft
pulley. Fit the bolt and washer and tighten just
enough to seat the pulley, being careful not to
turn the crankshaft (see illustrations).
6Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
camshaft sprocket backplate is still aligned
with the indentation on the cylinder head.
7Turn the crankshaft by the shortest route to
align the TDC notch in the pulley with the
pointer on the oil seal housing.
8If the distributor is fitted, turn the auxiliary
shaft sprocket so that the rotor arm points to
the No 1 HT segment position.
9Fit the timing belt over the sprockets and
round the tensioner. Move the tensioner to
tension the belt roughly and nip up the
tensioner bolts.
10Turn the crankshaft through two full turns
clockwise, then 60°anti-clockwise (so it is
now at 60°BTDC)
11The belt tension should now ideally be
checked by applying Ford tension gauge 21-113to the longest run. Desired gauge readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 5
New belt - 10 to 11
12If the tension gauge is not available, a
rough guide is that belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90°in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers (see illustration).
13If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC(see illustration)then slacken
the tensioner bolts and move the tensioner to
increase or decrease belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts.
14Turn the crankshaft 90°clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60°
BTDC position. Check the belt tension again.
15Repeat the above procedure until the belt
tension is correct.
16Tighten the tensioner bolts and the
crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torques
(see illustration).
17Refit the belt cover and tighten its bolts.
18If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
preliminary steps given in Section 13.
19Check the ignition timing when the engine
is next run.
Refer to Section 9 and refit the components
listed. Delicate items such as the alternator
and distributor may be left until after the
engine has been refitted, if preferred.
46Ancillary components - refitting
45Timing belt and sprockets -
refitting
2A•18SOHCengines
44.7 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
45.4 Fitting the timing belt over the
crankshaft sprocket
45.5a Refitting the crankshaft pulley45.5b Crankshaft pulley bolt and washer45.12 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension
44.10 Dovetail section of rocker cover
gasket44.11 Rocker cover bolts (A) and
reinforcing plates (B)
For tightening sequence see text
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected to the engine and that no
rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, when applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.6Bring the engine to operating temperature.
Check the ignition timing then adjust the idle
speed (if applicable) and mixture.
7Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re-
check the oil and coolant levels.
8If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantlingthe coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
52Compression test -
description and interpretation
51Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
50Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
2A•20SOHCengines
procarmanuals.com

manifold. Piston blow-by gases are drawn
through the oil separator and the vent valve to
the inlet manifold. The blow-by gases are then
drawn into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle.
a)Removal of the camshafts.
b)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head.
c)Removal of the timing chain and
sprockets.
d)Removal of the oil pump.
e)Removal of the sump.
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods.
g)Removal of the big-end bearings.
h)Removal of the engine mountings.
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
j)Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals.
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the vehicle.
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings.
b)Removal of the crankshaft.
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
to lift the engine out of the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.
5Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt
securing the hose support bracket to the left-
hand side of the cylinder head (see
illustration).
6Drain the cooling system.
7To provide additional working space,
remove the radiator.8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
water pump housing on the left-hand side of
the engine and the cylinder head (see
illustration).
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
10Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold.
11Where applicable, release the coolant
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
automatic choke housing.
12Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) speed control cable from the
throttle linkage.
13On carburettor models, disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the engine management
module.
14Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
(where necessary) from the inlet manifold.
15On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located
on the suspension turret on the right-hand
side of the engine compartment) and, where
applicable, the air conditioning system.
16On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply and return hoses at the
carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to
minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire
precautions.
17On fuel-injection models, slowly loosen
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail to relieve the
pressure in the fuel system before
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for
petrol spillage and take adequate fire
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose,and disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
18Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover.
19Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable, depending on
model. Then free the wiring loom from any
necessary retaining clips or ties and position it
clear of the engine.
a)Alternator.
b)Starter motor.
c)Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
d)Temperature gauge sender.
e)Cooling fan switch.
f)Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models).
g)Automatic choke heater (carburettor
models).
h)Engine coolant temperature sensor.
i)Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
j)Air charge temperature sensor.
k)Throttle position sensor.
l)Fuel temperature sensor.
m)Fuel injectors.
20Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt, then unbolt the power steering
pump from the mounting bracket and move it
clear of the engine. Note that there is no need
to disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure
that the pump is adequately supported to
avoid straining them.
21On models fitted with air conditioning,
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from the
mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
engine (see illustration). Do notdisconnect the
hoses, but make sure that the compressor is
adequately supported to avoid straining them.
22Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
bolts, and the positions of the earth strap and
any wiring clips attached to the bolts.
23Unscrew the securing bolt, and
disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
hand side of the cylinder head.
24Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
25Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
26Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Engine - removal leaving manual
gearbox in vehicle
4Major operations requiring
engine removal
3Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2B•4DOHCengine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket
bolt from the cylinder head5.8 Water pump coolant hoses (viewed
from above)
5.21 Air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts (arrowed) (viewed from underneath)
Warning: Vehicles equipped with
air conditioning: Components of
the air conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken
on the engine, and it is not always possible
to unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible pipes. In
such a case, the system should be
discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist. Refer also to the
precautions given in Chapter 3.
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9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
10The crankshaft and bearings can be
examined and if necessary renovated.
11Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
12Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
14Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked, but if oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
15Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
16Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps
in their correct locations, with the arrows on the
caps pointing towards the front of the engine.
17Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
18Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
19Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with newcomponents, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
20Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
21Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
22Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
23Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
24Install the new oil seal with reference to
Section 24.
25With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
26Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described previously in this Chapter.
27Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 27
of this Chapter, noting that the production
bearing undersizes are indicated as follows.
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft —
standard diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
— main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight — big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.
Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter,
but note that the connecting rod bolts should
be renewed on reassembly, and when
renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest
type bolts with hexagonal heads should
always be used.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 35
of this Chapter, noting the following points.
a)If the cylinder head has been removed,
pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of Section 18.
b)If removed during any dismantling
operations, new flywheel driveplate bolts
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
c)After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 3 of
Section 14 and refit the ancillary
components listed.Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter,
but note that when the engine is first started, a
metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is
due to the timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly taking time to pressurize with oil,
resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The
noise should stop after a short time, once oil
pressure has built up.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
35Compression test -
description and interpretation
34Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
33Engine reassembly - general
information
32Examination and renovation -
general information
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHCengine
30.11 Crankshaft main bearings and
associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle
4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil groove
6 Bearing shell with oil groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

The V6 engine fitted to the Granada is only
available in fuel-injected form. Mechanically,
the design of the engine is well-established,
and it is improved by the latest fuel, ignition and
engine management systems (see illustration).
The combined crankcase and cylinder block
is made of cast iron, and houses the pistons,
crankshaft and camshaft. The sump is
attached to the bottom of the crankcase and
the cylinder heads to the top.
The cylinder heads are of the crossflow
design, the inlet manifold being located
between them and the exhaust manifolds
being on the outboard sides. The overhead
valves are operated by tappets, pushrods and
rockers from the centrally located camshaft.
Camshaft drive is by gears (2.8 litre) or chain
(2.4 & 2.9 litre).
The crankshaft runs in four main bearings.
Endfloat is controlled by thrust flanges on the
No 3 bearing shells. The connecting rods are
selected so that all are in the same weight class.
Aluminium alloy pistons are used. The
gudgeon pins are an interference fit in their
connecting rods.The lubrication system is of the usual wet
sump, pressure fed type, with a full-flow
disposable canister oil filter. The oil pump is
driven by a shaft which engages in the bottom
of the distributor drivegear.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although some
work will be easier and quicker with the engine
removed.
a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder
heads
b)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil
pump
c)Removal and refitting of the timing gears
d)Removal and refitting of the pistons,
connecting rods and big-end bearings
e)Renewal of the engine mountings
f)Removal and refitting of the flywheel
g)Renewal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals
h)Removal and refitting of the camshaft
(after removal of the cylinder heads,
tappets and timing gears)The engine must be removed for the
following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
The engine is removed from above, without
the transmission. Removal with the
transmission is not recommended because of
the weight and unwieldiness of the combined
units.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3Remove the throttle valve cover, which is
retained by three screws.
4Remove the air cleaner cover, valve airflow
5Engine - removal
4Methods of engine removal
3Major operations requiring
engine removal
2Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
1General information
2C•6V6 engines
Cylinder head
Identification mark:
BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F
BRD and BRE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .K
Crankshaft
Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.08 to 0.24 mm
Permitted undersize for main and big-end bearing journals . . . . . . . . . .0.254 mm
Camshaft
Cam lift (inlet and exhaust):
BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6.72mm
BRD and BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6.54 mm
Cam lobe height (inlet and exhaust):
BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36.08 to 36.25 mm
BRD and BRE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36.22 to 36.41 mm
Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.065 to 0.165 mm
Thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.02 to 4.05 mm
Valves
Valve timing:
BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .As 2.4 litre V6
BRD and BRE engines:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30°BTDC
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66°ABDC
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76°BBDC
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20°ATDC
Length:
BRC engine:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106.2 to 106.9 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106.8 to 107.8 mm
BRD and BRE engine:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104.7 to 105.4 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104.6 to 105.6 mm
Valve spring free length:
BRC engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55.12 mm
BRD and BRE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53.00 mm
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19Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
ignition distributor and the fuel temperature
sensor (see illustrations).
20Release the pressure in the fuel distributor
pipe by depressing the pin in the vent valve.
Cover the valve with a rag during this
operation to prevent fuel being sprayed out
(see illustration).
21Disconnect the fuel lines (see illustration).
22Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
following components:
a)Fuel pressure regulator.
b)Throttle valve assembly.
c)T-piece connector (see illustration).
23Disconnect the rocker cover breather hose
(see illustration).
24Unbolt the plenum chamber and place it to
one side with the throttle cable attached.25Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the ignition coil noting their correct
fitted locations. Undo the two retaining screws
then remove the distributor cap and HT leads
as an assembly.
26Using a 19 mm socket on the crankshaft
damper centre bolt, set No 1 piston to its firing
point (12°BTDC) and remove the distributor.
27If the right-hand cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the drivebelts, unbolt the
alternator and power steering pump and tie
them to one side of the engine compartment.
28Unbolt and remove the rocker cover(s).
29Unbolt and remove the rocker shaft(s) (see
illustration).
30Withdraw the pushrods and keep them in
their originally fitted sequence.
31Disconnect the inlet manifold to timingcover coolant hose from the manifold.
32Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with fuel rail and injectors. Discard
the gasket.
33Disconnect the exhaust downpipe(s) from
the manifold(s).
34Disconnect the earth straps from the rear
of the left-hand cylinder head and release the
cable retaining clamp.
35Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
36Unscrew the cylinder head bolts using the
reverse of the tightening sequence (see
illustration 38.5). Obtain new bolts for refitting.
Remove the cylinder head(s) and discard the
gasket(s).
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 16
of this Chapter but note that there are 24 bolts
retaining the sump, not 23.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the engine oil.
3Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.
10Timing cover and drive -
removal
9Sump - removal
V6 engines 2C•9
2C
8.18b Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve wiring plug8.19a Disconnecting the distributor wiring
plug8.19b Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug
8.22 Vacuum hose T-piece connector
8.20 Fuel rail vent (depressurising) valve
and cap8.21 Fuel feed (A) and return (B) hoses
8.23 Rocker cover breather hose (arrowed)8.29 Removing rocker shaft and pedestal
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6Lubricate the pushrods with engine oil and
insert them in the cylinder block.
7Place the oil splash shields in position on
the cylinder heads and fit the rocker shaft
assemblies. Guide the rocker arm adjusting
screws into the pushrod sockets (see
illustrations).
8Tighten the rocker shaft securing bolts
progressively to the specified torque.
9Refit the inlet manifold, using a new gasket.
Do not refit the rocker covers yet.
10Adjust the valve clearances (Section 39).
11Refit the spark plugs.
12Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive side of the gaskets
should face the rocker cover.
13If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
preliminary steps.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
14Refitting the cylinder heads to these
engines is essentially a reversal of the removal
procedure but also refer to information given
for the 2.8 litre engine whilstnoting the
following points.
15Always use new Torx type cylinder head
bolts. Oil them and allow them to drain. When
fitted the word OBEN should be visible on the
new gaskets.
16Tighten the bolts in the specified
sequence (as for the 2.8 litre engine) to the
correct torque. The final stage in the tightening
procedure is by the angular method. Use a
disc similar to the one shown or make a paint
mark at the same point on each bolt head to
ensure that each bolt is turned through exactly
the same number of degrees (see
illustration).17As a result of the bolt tightening torque
used and the elasticity of the bolts, no further
tightening is required after the initial running-in
period.
18Apply jointing compound to the areas
where the inlet manifold and cylinder heads
meet and locate a new gasket in position.
Make sure that it is the correct way around.
Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the specified
torque and in the sequence shown (see
illustrations).
19Check that No 1 piston is still at the firing
point (12°BTDC) and fit the distributor.
20Adjust the valve clearances.
21Fit new rocker cover gaskets, peeling off
the self-adhesive shield before sticking the
gaskets to the covers. Note the aluminium
spacers in the gaskets to prevent
overtightening (see illustration).
22Use a new gasket at the plenum chamber
and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified
torque (see illustration).
23Refit the alternator and power steering
pump (where removed) and tension the
drivebelts.
24Reconnect the fuel lines and secure them
in position with new clips. Reconnect all
coolant and vacuum hoses and electrical
connectors. Refill the engine with coolant and
reconnect the battery.
25Switch on the ignition and bleed the fuel
system by operating the vent valve on the fuel rail.
26Run the engine up to normal operating
temperature and then check the ignition
timing.
2C•20V6 engines
38.7a Fitting the pushrods and oil splash
shields
38.18a Inlet manifold gasket correctly
located38.18b Fitting inlet manifold complete with
fuel rail and injectors
38.22 Lowering the plenum chamber into
position38.18c Inlet manifold tightening sequence
Arrow indicates the front of the engine38.21 Peeling off rocker cover gasket
protective shield
38.7b Fitting an assembled rocker shaft38.16 Tightening a cylinder head bolt using
an angular tightening disc
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27The inlet manifold bolts should be
retightened to the specified torque in the correct
sequence. This will mean disconnecting the air
hoses from the throttle valve housing, the
vacuum hose from the left-hand rocker cover,
and the wiring connector from the idle speed
control valve and throttle valve potentiometer.
Remove the plenum chamber, place it to one
side, then release the fuel rail bolts but do not
disconnect the fuel pipes. It may also be
necessary to remove the distributor again to
gain access to one of the bolts.
See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Refer to Section 7 and refit the items listed.
2If the oil cooler and its threaded bush were
removed, refit them as follows (see
illustration).
3Screw the new bush into the cylinder block.
Apply Omnifit Activator “Rapid” (to Ford
specification SSM-99B-9000-AA) to the
exposed threads of the bush and to the inside
of the threaded sleeve.
4Apply one drop of Omnifit Sealant “300
Rapid” (to Ford specification SSM-4G-9003-
AA) to the leading threads of the bush.Do not
use more than one drop, otherwise sealant
may get into the lubrication circuit.
5Fit the cooler, using a new gasket, and
secure with the threaded bush. Make sure that
the coolant pipes are positioned at the correct
angle (see illustration),then tighten the
threaded sleeve to the specified torque.
6Fit a new oil filter element, oiling its sealing
ring prior to installation. Tighten the filter
approximately three-quarters of a turn beyond
the point where the seal contacts the cooler
face. Do not use any tool to tighten the filter.
Refer to Part A, Section 49, paragraphs 1 to
9 of this Chapter. Before starting the engine,
refer to the following Section.1Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter.
2When conventional (hexagon-headed)
cylinder head bolts are fitted, they must be re-
tightened after the engine has warmed up.
Proceed as follows.
3Stop the engine and remove the rocker covers.
4Working in the sequence used for
tightening, slacken one cylinder head bolt a
quarter turn, then re-tighten it to the Stage 4
specified torque. Repeat in sequence for all
the cylinder head bolts.
5Tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
6Check the valve clearances.
7Refit the rocker covers and other disturbed
components.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
43Compression test -
description and interpretation
42Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
41Engine - refitting
40Ancillary components - refitting
39Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
V6 engines 2C•21
2C
40.2 Oil cooler components
A Threaded bush
B Seal
C CoolerD Sleeve
E Oil filter
40.5 Oil cooler installation angle
A Rear face of cylinder block
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The exhaust system fitted in production is
made of aluminised steel, with stainless steel
used in the endplates and baffles of the rear
silencer. Individual sections of the system are
easily renewed in service.
Emission control for the UK market is
achieved largely by the inherent efficiency of
the fuel, ignition and engine management
systems. A welcome spin-off from such
efficiency is remarkably good fuel economy for
a vehicle of such size and weight.
Precautions
Fuel
Many of the procedures in this Chapter
require the removal of fuel lines and
connections which may result in some fuel
spillage. Residual pressure in fuel-injection
systems will remain in the fuel lines long after
the vehicle was last used, therefore extra care
must be taken when disconnecting a fuel line
hose. Loosen any fuel hose slowly to avoid a
sudden release of pressure which may cause
fuel spray. As an added precaution place a rag
over each union as it is disconnected to catch
any fuel which is forcibly expelled. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel system
refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!”
at the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous
and volatile liquid and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed
Tamperproof adjustment screws
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
(and elsewhere) are protected by tamperproof
caps, plugs or seals. The purpose of such
tamperproofing is to discourage, and to deter,
adjustment by unqualified operators.
In some EU countries (though not yet in the
UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with
missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before
disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself
that you will not be breaking local or national
anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a
new seal when adjustment is complete when
this is required by law.
Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle
which is still under warranty.
Catalytic converter
The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for the full service life.
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule - particularly,
ensure that the air cleaner filter element,
the fuel filter and the spark plugs are
renewed at the correct interval - if the inletair/fuel mixture is allowed to become too
rich due to neglect, the unburned surplus
will enter and burn in the catalytic
converter, overheating the element and
eventually destroying the converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in
overheating, as noted above.
d)DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when
the engine does start - see b) above.
e)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburnedfuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of igniting on the element and damaging
the converter.
f)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g)DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce the efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
which brush against it - DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth,
over long grass or piles of dead leaves.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE, do not strike it with tools during
servicing work, take great care when
working on the exhaust system, ensure
that the converter is well clear of any jacks
or other lifting gear used to raise the car
and do not drive the car over rough
ground, road humps, etc, in such a way as
to “ground” the exhaust system.
j)In some cases, particularly when the car is
new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic converter-
equipped cars and seems to be due to the
small amount of sulphur found in some
petrols reacting with hydrogen in the
exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H
2S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.
k)The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven car, should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles
- from this point on, careful checks should
be made at all specified service intervals
of the CO level to ensure that the
converter is still operating efficiently - if
the converter is no longer effective it must
be renewed.
See Chapter 1, Section 38.
1On carburettor models only, the air cleaner
can take in both hot and cold air. Hot air is
obtained from a shroud bolted to the exhaust
manifold.
2A flap valve in the air cleaner spout
determines the mix of hot and cold air. The
valve is operated by a vacuum diaphragm.
Vacuum is obtained from the inlet manifold
and is applied via a heat-sensing valve, which
cuts off the vacuum as the temperature of the
incoming air rises. Thus the air cleaner takes in
only hot air on starting from cold, changing
progressively to cold air as the engine warms
up (see illustrations).
3If the system fails, either the engine will take
a long time to warm up (flap stuck in “cold”
position), or it may run roughly and not
develop full power when warm (flap stuck in
“hot” position). Check it as follows.
3Air cleaner temperature control
- description and testing
2Air cleaner and element -
removal and refitting
4•4Fuel and exhaust systems
3.2b Air cleaner heat sensor3.2a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit
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