ignition FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Guide

Solenoid check
3Disconnect the battery negative lead, and all
leads from the solenoid.
4Connect a battery and a 3 watt test lamp
between the solenoid body and the solenoid
motor terminal (see illustration).The test
lamp should light: if not, the solenoid windings
are open-circuit.
5Connect a battery and an 18 to 21 watt test
lamp across the solenoid motor and battery
terminals. Connect a further lead from the
battery positive terminal to the solenoid spade
terminal(see illustration).The solenoid
should be heard to operate and the test lamp
should light: if not, the solenoid contacts are
defective.
On load voltage check
6Remake the original connections to the
solenoid and reconnect the battery negative
lead. Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals, then disconnect the low tension
lead from the coil positive terminal and
operate the starter by turning the ignition
switch. Note the reading on the voltmeter
which should not be less than 10.5 volts.
7Now connect the voltmeter between the
starter motor terminal on the solenoid and the
starter motor body. With the coil low tension
lead still disconnected, operate the starter and
check that the recorded voltage is not more
than 1 volt lower than thatpreviously noted. If
the voltage drop is more than 1 volt a fault
exists in the wiring from the battery to the
starter.
8Connect the voltmeter between the battery
positive terminal and the terminal on the
starter motor. With the coil low tension lead
disconnected operate the starter for two or
three seconds. Battery voltage should be
indicated initially, then dropping to less than 1
volt. If the reading is more than 1 volt there is a
high resistance in the wiring from the battery
to the starter and the check in paragraph 9
should be made. If the reading is less than 1
volt proceed to paragraph 10.
9Connect the voltmeter between the two
main solenoid terminals and operate the
starter for two or three seconds. Batteryvoltage should be indicated initially then
dropping to less than 0.5 volt. If the reading is
more than 0.5 volt, the solenoid and
connections may be faulty.
10Connect the voltmeter between the
battery negative terminal and the starter motor
body, and operate the starter for two or three
seconds. A reading of less than 0.5 volt should
be recorded; however, if the reading is more,
the earth circuit is faulty and the earth
connections to the battery and body should be
checked.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead. Raise
and support the front of the vehicle.
2From underneath the vehicle, disconnect
the feed (heavy) cable from the solenoid.
3Disconnect the command lead from the
solenoid spade terminal.
4Undo the starter motor securing bolts and
(where fitted) the support bracket fastenings.
Withdraw the starter motor from the vehicle.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check for correct operation on completion.
1Disconnect the motor lead from the
solenoid terminal.
2Remove the two screws which secure the
armature end cap. Remove the cap, the C-
washer and the plain washer(s).
3Remove the two through-bolts or studs.
4Remove the commutator end cover to
expose the brushgear. Carefully withdraw the
brushplate from the commutator. Be careful to
avoid damage to the brushes as they are
released.
5Examine the brushes: they should not beexcessively worn (see Specifications) and
must slide freely in their holders. Brush
renewal varies according to motor type as
follows:
Short frame - the brush lead must be
removed from the stand-off connector on the
brushplate, and the clip on the new brush lead
soldered to the connector.
Long frame - the old brush leads must be
cut and the new leads attached by soldering
Reduction gear - the brushplate must be
renewed complete with brushes, holders and
springs
6Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling
whilst noting the following:
7Clean the commutator with a rag moistened
with methylated spirit, then refit the
brushplate.
8Either clip the brushes in place after fitting
the plate, or use a tube of suitable diameter to
keep the brushes retracted during fitting.
9Make sure that the brushplate is correctly
positioned to allow the passage of through-
bolts or studs.
See Chapter 1, Section 20.
See Chapter 1, Section 39.
All engines except 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
Note: The distributor should not be removed
without good cause, since the accuracy of
ignition timing achieved in production is
unlikely to be regained
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the distributor cap as described in
the previous Section. Depending on model, it
may be possible to move the cap aside
without disconnecting the HT leads.
3Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, turn the engine to bring No 1 cylinder to
firing point. (If the distributor cap is secured by
clips, make sure the clips stay clear of the
distributor moving parts.) No 1 cylinder is at
firing point when:
a)The timing marks are in alignment.
b)The tip of the rotor arm is pointing to the
place occupied by the No 1 HT lead
connector in the distributor cap (see
illustration).
4With No 1 cylinder at firing point, the tip of
the rotor arm should also be aligned with a
notch in the distributor body. Mark the notch
for reference when refitting.
5Depress the locking tab on the distributor
13Distributor - removal and
refitting
12HT leads, distributor cap and
rotor arm - removal, inspection
and refitting
11Spark plugs - removal,
inspection and refitting
10Starter motor - brush renewal
9Starter motor - removal and
refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5
8.4 Solenoid winding check
A Battery terminal
B Motor terminalC Spade terminal
8.5 Solenoid contact check
A Battery terminal
B Motor terminalC Spade terminal
If the stud nuts are
inaccessible, lock two nuts
together on the stud and turn
them to unscrew it .
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12When the distributor is at the firing point,
the leading edge of one of the vanes should be
in line with the rib on the sensor (see
illustration). Turn the distributor body slightly
if necessary to achieve this.
13Refit the clamp plate and bolt. Just nip up
the bolt for the time being. Tighten it finally
after checking the timing. Also secure the
support bracket, when fitted.
14Refit the rotor arm, distributor cap and HT
leads.
15Reconnect the distributor multi-plug.
16Reconnect the battery. Run the engine
and check the ignition timing as described in
the next Section.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
Note: The distributor should not be removed
or disturbed without good cause, since the
accuracy of timing achieved in production is
unlikely to be regained. If difficulty is
experienced in setting the timing after refitting,
or if a new distributor has been fitted, the
timing should be set by a Ford dealer using a
STAR (Self Test Automatic Readout) tester.
17Disconnect the battery negative lead.
18Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs noting the correct fitted locations.
19Release the distributor cap and place it to
one side, complete with the HT leads.
20Turn the engine by means of the vibration
damper centre bolt until No 1 piston is at its
firing point (12°BTDC) (see illustration).
21If there is no mark visible, mark the rim of
the distributor body to indicate the point of
alignment of the contact end of the rotor.
22Mark the position of the distributor
mounting plate in relation to the cylinder
block.
23Disconnect the distributor wiring
connector.
24Scrape the sealant from around the
distributor clamp bolt then unscrew the bolt
and withdraw the distributor.
25Prior to refitting the distributor check that
the crankshaft is still set in the 12°BTDC
position for the No 1 piston.
26Hold the distributor over the hole so that
the mounting plinth and cylinder head marks
are aligned then align the rotor arm contact
end with the mark on the distributor rim (see
illustration).
27As the distributor is inserted, the rotor will
turn due to the meshing of the drive gears.
When the distributor is fully inserted, rotate the
distributor body until the rotor arm aligns with
mark C on the distributor rim.
28Once the rotor arm, cylinder head and
distributor alignment marks are all correctly
aligned, fit the clamp bolt and tighten it
securely.
29Refit the distributor cap then connect the
HT leads, reconnect the vacuum pipe and
wiring plug.
30Run the engine to normal operating
temperature and check the ignition timing,
bearing in mind the note made at the start of
this sub-Section.
All engines except DOHC
1Ignition timing is set very accurately in
production. It does not need to be checked or
adjusted on a routine basis. Adjustment will
only be necessary if the distributor, or an
associated component such as the timing belt,
has been disturbed.
2Before checking the timing, the following
conditions must be met:
a)The engine must be warmed up
b)On carburettor models, the vacuum pipe
must be disconnected from the manifold
and the manifold hole be plugged
c)Idle speed must be below 900 rpm
d)Any earthed “octane adjustment” wires
must be temporarily isolated
3Locate the timing marks. On SOHC engines
the timing scale is on the crankshaft pulley,
and a pointer on the timing cover must be
aligned with the appropriate mark on the
pulley (see illustration). Note that two
alternative types of pulley may be fitted (see
illustration).On V6 engines there is a single
notch on the pulley and the timing scale is on
the timing cover (see illustration).The desiredvalues are given in the Specifications.
Highlight the appropriate marks with white
paint.
4Connect a timing light (strobe) to No 1 HT
lead, following the maker’s instructions. Some
lights require additional power connections to
be made, either to the mains or to the battery.
5Run the engine at idle and shine the timing
light onto the marks. Take care not to get the
timing light leads, clothing etc tangled in the
fan blades or other moving parts. The timing
marks will appear stationary and (if the timing
is correct) in alignment.
14Ignition timing - checking
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
13.12 Vane leading edge and sensor rib
(arrowed) are aligned at firing point13.20 Crankshaft pulley notch set to the 12°
BTDC position
14.3a Timing marks and pointer
Cast pulley shown
13.26 Rotor arm position before (1) and after (2) refitting the distributor
X = XC Notch
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6If adjustment is necessary, stop the engine.
Slacken the distributor clamp bolt and turn the
distributor body slightly. To retard the ignition
(move the mark nearer TDC) turn the
distributor body clockwise, and vice versato
advance the ignition. Tighten the clamp bolt
and re-check the timing.
7When adjustment is correct, stop the engine
and disconnect the timing light. Reconnect the
vacuum pipe, when applicable, and reconnect
any “octane adjustment” wires.
DOHC engine
8The ignition timing for this engine is
controlled by the ESC II or EEC IV module and
no adjustment is possible.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the distributor multi-plug.
3On V6 models only, make alignment marks
between the distributor body and the engine.
Slacken the distributor clamp bolt and swivel
the distributor to make the module securing
screws accessible.
4Remove the two screws which secure the
module (see illustration). These screws are
deeply recessed. The screws seen here have
Torx heads; ordinary hexagon heads have also
been encountered, and to undo these a thin
socket or box spanner will be required.
5Pull the module downwards and remove it.
6When refitting, coat the rear face of the
module with heat sink compound to Ford spec
815F-12103-AA. This is extremely expensive,
so it may be worthwhile trying to obtain a
smear from a friendly dealer or auto
electrician.
7Plug the module into the distributor and
secure it with the two screws.8On V6 models, return the distributor to its
original position and nip up the clamp bolt.
9Reconnect the distributor multi-plug.
10Reconnect the battery and run the engine
to check for correct function.
11On V6 models, check the ignition timing
and then finally tighten the distributor clamp
bolt.
DOHC engine
12The ignition module is located in the left-
hand front corner of the engine compartment,
beside the air cleaner housing.
13To remove the module, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
14To improve access remove the air cleaner
housing.
15Release the locking lug and disconnect
the ignition module wiring plug (see
illustration). Pull on the plug, not on the
wiring.
16Remove the two securing screws, and
remove the module from the engine
compartment.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the underside of the module and the
corresponding area of the body panel are
clean.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
Note: Removal of the ignition module requires
the distributor to be disturbed.
18The ignition module is mounted onto the
side of the distributor.
19To remove the module first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
20Carefully disconnect the distributor wiring
connector.
21Make alignment marks between the
distributor mounting and cylinder block then
scrape the sealant from around the distributor
clamp bolt and slacken but do not remove the
bolt.
22Rotate the distributor to gain access to the
ignition module retaining bolts.
23Slacken and remove the two retaining
bolts and carefully slide the module
downwards to disengage it from the
distributor, taking great care not to damage
the module wiring pins.
24Apply a coating of the special Ford heat-
sink compound (Part number 815F-12103-AA,
available from a Ford dealer This is extremely
expensive, so it may be worthwhile trying to
obtain a smear from a friendly dealer or auto
electrician) to the rear of the ignition module
and carefully slide the module into position on
the distributor. Note: Do not force the module
15Ignition module (fuel-injection
models) - removal and refitting
5•8Engine electrical systems
15.4 Two screws (arrowed) which secure
the ignition module15.15 Ignition module (viewed with air
cleaner removed)
14.3c Ignition timing marks - V6
A Timing scaleB Pulley14.3b Ignition timing marks - SOHC
A Cast pulleyB Pressed steel pulley
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into position or the wiring pins will be
damaged.
25Refit the module retaining bolts and
tighten them securely.
26Rotate the distributor until the marks made
on removal are aligned then securely tighten
the clamp bolt.
27Reconnect the distributor wiring
connector and the battery negative terminal.
28Run the engine to normal operating
temperature and check the ignition timing.
All engines except DOHC fuel-
injection
1The ignition coil is mounted on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment (see
illustration). If it fails, there will be no spark
and the engine will stop.
2To test the coil an ohmmeter will be
required. Disconnect the LT and HT leads from
the coil and measure the resistance between
the two LT terminals (primary resistance), then
between the HT terminal and either LT
terminal (secondary resistance). Desired
values are given in the Specifications. In fact
most test gear will not be able to distinguish
between a normal primary resistance (which is
very low) and a short-circuit.
3In the absence of an ohmmeter, test the coil
by substitution of a known good unit.4To remove the coil, disconnect the LT and
HT leads, then remove the two screws which
secure the coil clamp. Lift out the coil.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injection
engines
6Refer to the above paragraphs but note that
on some models the coil heat shield must be
removed for access to the coil securing bolts.
The heat shield is secured by two screws. An
earthing lead and/or a suppressor may also be
secured by one of the coil retaining screws
(see illustration).
1On carburettor models, a fuel trap is fitted in
the vacuum pipe between the inlet manifold
and the ESC II module.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the trap
and remove it. Dispose of it carefully, it may
contain fuel.
4When refitting, note that the end of the trap
marked CARB goes towards the manifold, and
the end marked DIST towards the module.
5Reconnect the battery.
ESC II module (carburettor
models)
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
module (see illustration).
3Release the locking catch and disconnect
the multi-plug from the module (see
illustration).
4Remove the three securing screws and
detach the module and bracket from the left-
hand inner wing.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the multi-plug is securely fitted
and the locking catch engaged.Note: From January 1987, a new type of
module was fitted to the 1.8 litre engine. The
new module is smaller than the old unit and is
in the engine compartment mounted onto the
left-hand wing valance. The new module is
known as the ESC Hybrid Module.(see
illustration)
DOHC engine
6Removal and refitting is as above.
7The module is located on the left-hand side
of the engine compartment and is secured by
two screws.
EEC IV module (fuel-injection
models)
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Remove the under-dash trim on the
passenger side.
10Unclip the module and lower it onto the
vehicle floor.
11Remove the control bolt from the multi-
plug and disconnect the plug from the module.
12Refit by reversing the removal operations.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
13The module is situated behind the
passenger side of the facia and is accessible
from underneath the glovebox.
14To remove the module first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
15Reach up behind the glovebox and unclip
the module from the mounting bracket (see
illustration).
18Engine management control
module - removal and refitting
17Fuel trap (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
16Ignition coil - testing, removal
and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•9
5
16.1 Ignition coil location16.6 Suppresser secured by one of the coil
retaining screws
18.2 Disconnecting the ESC II module
vacuum pipe18.5 Engine management module - 1.8 litre
engine from January 198718.3 ESC II module multi-plug
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2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3). Save
the coolant if it is fit for re-use.
4Disconnect the multi-plug from the sensor.
Pull on the plug, not on the wiring (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the sensor and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
Note: The manifold heater must not be
removed while it is hot.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2Remove the air cleaner to improve access.
3Remove the three bolts which secure the
heater to the underside of the manifold.
4Disconnect the electrical feed from the heater.
5Remove the heater. Recover the gasket and
O-ring (see illustration).
6Use a new gasket and O-ring when refitting.
Offer the heater to the manifold, insert the
three bolts and tighten them evenly, making
sure that the heater does not tip or jam.
7Reconnect the electrical feed.
8Refit the air cleaner and reconnect the
battery.
All relays are located behind the facia panel.
Access is gained by removing the facia top
(see illustration).
Testing of a suspect relay is by substitution
of a known good unit.
1All models have a facility for retarding the
ignition timing by up to six degrees without
physically disturbing the distributor. The
adjustment is intended for use when the
correct grade of fuel is not available.
2Adjustment is made by earthing one or two
leads (sometimes called “octane adjustment”
leads) which terminate in a multi-plug next to
the ignition coil (see illustrations). Ideally a
service adjustment lead, available from a Ford
dealer, should be used. Cut and insulate the
wires in the adjustment lead which are not to
be earthed.
3The amount of ignition retardation is as
follows:
Wire(s) Degrees retard
earthed Carb. injection V6
Blue 2 4 6
Red 4 2 3
Blue and red 6 6 Forbidden
4Performance and efficiency will suffer as a
result of this adjustment. Normal timing should
be restored (by isolating the adjustment leads)
when the correct grade of fuel is available.
5If the yellow adjustment lead is earthed, thiswill raise the idle speed by 75 rpm (OHC) or 50
rpm (V6). It may be found that the yellow lead
has already been earthed in production, in
which case disconnecting it will lower the idle
speed by the same amount. This adjustment
does not apply to 1.8 litre carburettor models.
1.8 models from January 1987
6The effect of the “octane adjustment” leads
on these models fitted with the ESC Hybrid
Module is as follows.
Red lead earthed2°retarded
Blue lead earthed4°retarded
Red and blue leads earthed6°retarded
1Fitted to DOHC engines,the sensor is
located at the right-hand rear of the cylinder
block, behind the oil filter (see illustration).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Access is most easily obtained from
underneath the vehicle. To improve access,
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
5Remove the securing screw and withdraw the
sensor from the location in the cylinder block.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new sensor O-ring and tightening the retaining
screw to the specified torque setting.
24Crankshaft speed/position
sensor - removal and refitting
23Ignition timing and idle speed
adjustments
22Engine management system
relays - testing
21Manifold heater (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•11
5
20.4 Coolant temperature sensor multi-plug21.5 Removing the manifold heater22.1 Engine management system relays
A Power holdB Manifold heater
23.2a Octane adjustment lead multi-plug
23.2b Service adjustment lead for timing
and idle adjustment
A Earthing point (coil
screw)
B Multi-plugC Cut wires not to be
earthed
24.1 Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(viewed from underneath)
procarmanuals.com

Note: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in the case of skin
contact and seek immediate medical advice if
any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.
Certain types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable
and may ignite when allowed into contact with
hot components; when servicing any hydraulic
system it is safest to assume that the fluid is
inflammable and to take precautions against
the risk of fire as though it is petrol that is
being handled. Finally, it is hygroscopic (it
absorbs moisture from the air) old fluid may be
contaminated and unfit for further use. When
topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use
the recommended type and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed container
1Bleeding is necessary whenever air has
entered the hydraulic system - for instance
after component renewal. Because the
hydraulic circuits are split, if only the front or
rear circuit has been disturbed it will normally
only be necessary to bleed the front or rear
calipers. If the hydraulic unit has been
disturbed or the fluid level has been allowed to
fall so low that air has entered the system,
both front and rear circuits must be bled,
starting with the front
2The services of an assistant will be required.
As far as is known, pressure bleeding or other
“one-man” equipment cannot be used. In
addition a supply of fresh brake fluid of the
correct type will be needed, together with a
length of flexible tube to fit the bleed screws
and a clean glass or plastic container.
3Do not allow the hydraulic unit pump motor
to run for more than two minutes at a time. The
motor must be allowed to cool (with the
ignition off) for at least ten minutes after each
two minute spell of running.
4Remember that brake fluid is poisonous and
that the rear brake hydraulic system may be
under considerable pressure. Take care not to
allow hydraulic fluid to spray into the face or
eyes.
5Keep the reservoir topped up to the MAX
mark during bleeding.
6Discard the fluid bled out of the system as it
is unfit for re-use.
Models before April 1992
Front brakes
7Remove the dust cap (if fitted) from the left-
hand caliper bleed screw. Slacken the bleed
screw, then nip it up again. Make sure that the
ignition is off.8Fit the bleed tube over the bleed screw.
Place the other end of the tube in the bleed jar
(glass or plastic container). Pour sufficient
brake fluid into the jar to cover the end of the
tube.
9Open the bleed screw one full turn. Have
the assistant depress the brake pedal as far as
it will go, and hold it depressed. Tighten the
bleed screw, then tell the assistant to release
the pedal.
10Repeat paragraph 9 until clean fluid, free
of air bubbles, flows from the bleed screw
during the downstrokes. Remember to keep
the fluid reservoir topped up.
11Repeat the operations on the right-hand
caliper. Refit the bleed screw dust caps (if
applicable) on completion.
Rear brakes
12Remove the dust cap (if fitted) from the
rear left-hand caliper bleed screw. Open the
bleed screw one full turn.
13Fit the bleed tube over the bleed screw.
Place the other end of the tube in the bleed jar
(see illustration).
14Have the assistant depress the brake
pedal as far as it will go and hold it down.
Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump
will start and fluid will flow from the bleed
screw.
15When clean fluid, free of air bubbles,
emerges from the bleed screw, tighten the
bleed screw and have the assistant release the
pedal.
16Wait for the hydraulic unit pump to stop,
then top-up the reservoir and repeat the
procedure on the right-hand caliper. This time
the brake pedal should only be depressed
half-way.
17Switch off the ignition, top-up the reservoir
again and refit the reservoir cap. Refit the
bleed screw dust caps (if applicable).
Models from April 1992
18This operation can be carried out using the
information given above inparagraphs 1 to 10,
ignoring the reference to the hydraulic unit
pump and bearing in mind the following.
19Note that if only one circuit is disturbed it
will only be necessary to bleed that relevant
circuit on completion.20If the complete system is to be bled, it
should be done in the following order.
a)Left-hand front caliper.
b)Right-hand front brake caliper.
c)Left-hand rear caliper.
d)Right-hand rear caliper.
See Chapter 1, Section 44.
1Whenever the brake pads are inspected,
also inspect the brake discs for deep
scratches, scores or cracks. Light scoring is
normal and may be ignored. A cracked disc
must be renewed; scratches and scores can
sometimes be machined out, provided that the
thickness of the disc is not reduced below the
specified minimum.
2When the brake pads are renewed, or if
brake judder or snatch is noticed, check the
discs for run-out and thickness variation. (Note
that wheel bearing wear can cause disc run-
out.)
3Position a dial test indicator probe against
the disc wear face, approximately 15 mm (0.6 in)
in from the outer circumference. Zero the
indicator, rotate the disc and read the run-out
from the indicator(see illustration).Maximum
run-out is given in the Specifications. If a dial
test indicator is not available, use a fixed
pointer and feeler blades.
4Measure the thickness of the disc, using a
micrometer, in eight evenly spaced positions
around the disc. Maximum thickness variation
is given in the Specifications. Renew the disc if
the variation is out of limits.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the relevant
front wheel.
2Remove the two bolts which hold the caliper
bracket to the stub axle carrier. Lift the caliper
5Front brake disc - removal and
refitting
4Brake discs - inspection
3Brake hydraulic system - fluid
renewal
2Brake hydraulic system -
bleeding
Braking system 10•3
10
2.13 Bleeding a rear brake caliper
4.3 Measuring brake disc run-out
Hydraulic fluid is an effective
paint stripper and will attack
plastics; if any is spilt, it
should be washed off
immediately using copious quantities of
fresh water.
procarmanuals.com

1It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
2Free the handbrake cable from its clip on
the suspension lower arm. Release the
handbrake.
3Remove the caliper slide bolt nearest the
front, counter-holding the slide pin with
another spanner (see illustration).
4Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted (see illustration).
5Swing the caliper rearwards and remove the
pads (see illustration). Do not press the brake
pedal with the caliper removed.
6Clean the dust and dirt from the caliper,
bracket and disc, using a damp cloth or old
paintbrush which can be thrown away
afterwards. Take care not to disperse the dust
into the air, or to inhale it, since it may contain
asbestos. Scrape any scale or rust from the
disc. Investigate any hydraulic fluid leaks.
7Retract the caliper piston, by turning it
clockwise, to accommodate the extra
thickness of the new pads. There is a Ford tool
(No 12-006) for this purpose, but a pair of
circlip pliers or any similar tool can be used
instead (see illustration).
8Remove any backing paper from the newpads, then fit them to the caliper bracket. Be
careful not to contaminate the friction surfaces
with oil or grease.
9Swing the caliper over the pads. Refit and
tighten the slide bolt.
10Reconnect the wear warning wires, if fitted.
11Repeat the operations on the other rear
caliper.
12Secure the handbrake cable, refit the wheels
and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts.
13Switch on the ignition and pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
discs. Switch off the ignition and check the
operation of the handbrake.
14Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so to allow the new
pads to bed in.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the hydraulic system.
2Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the relevant
front wheel.
3Slacken the flexible hose hydraulic union at
the caliper by no more than a quarter turn.
4Remove the brake pads (Section 7).
5The caliper can now be removed by holding
the flexible hose stationary and rotating the
caliper to unscrew it. Be prepared for hydraulic
fluid spillage: plug or cap the caliper and hose.A brake hose clamp may be used if available
(see illustration). Take great care to keep dirt
out of the hydraulic system.
6The caliper bracket may be unbolted from
the stub axle carrier if wished.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, check the
positioning of the flexible hose. It must not be
kinked, nor foul adjacent components, in any
position of the steering wheel. Release the
other end of the hose from its bracket if
necessary and reposition it.
8Bleed both front brake calipers as described
in Section 2.
1It is possible to carry out these operations
without disconnecting the caliper hydraulic
hose, but this is not recommended because of
the risk of introducing dirt into the hydraulic
system. Scrupulous cleanliness is essential.
2Obtain a caliper repair kit, which will contain
a piston seal and a dust boot. (The piston itself
can also be renewed if necessary.)
3Remove the piston from the caliper. This is
best done with low air pressure (eg from a foot
pump) applied to the hydraulic inlet union.
Place a piece of wood opposite the piston to
prevent damage, and keep your fingers clear
as the piston may be ejected with some force.
4With the piston removed, pull off the dust
boot (see illustration).
10Front caliper - overhaul
9Front caliper - removal and
refitting
8Rear brake pads - inspection
and renewal
Braking system 10•5
10
8.3 Undoing a rear caliper front slide bolt8.4 Pad wear warning multi-plug (arrowed)
on rear caliper8.5 Removing a rear brake pad
8.7 Rotating the caliper piston to retract it9.5 Removing a front caliper - note clamp
on brake hose10.4 Removing the dust boot from a front
caliper
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5Extract the piston seal from the groove in
the bore, using a blunt instrument (see
illustration). Discard the seal and dust boot.
6Clean the piston and bore with methylated
spirit and inspect them for scuffs, scores or
other damage. If the piston is corroded it must
be renewed. Slight imperfections in the bore
can be polished out with wire wool.
7Place the clean component on a clean
surface ready for reassembly. Lubricate the
caliper hose with clean hydraulic fluid.
8Fit the new piston seal to the groove in the
bore, using fingers only to work it into position.
9Lubricate the piston with clean hydraulic
fluid and fit the dust boot over the piston,
making sure it is the right way up. Insert the
piston into the bore and press it home,
engaging the dust boot lip with the groove on
the caliper (see illustration).
10This completes the overhaul of the hydraulic
components. Items such as slide bolts and
bracket can also be renewed if necessary.
11Remove the bleed screw while the caliper
is on the bench and apply a little anti-seize
compound to its threads, to avoid trouble in
undoing it later.
1With the ignition off, pump the brake pedal
at least 20 times (or until it becomes hard) to
depressurise the system.
2Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Slacken the rear wheel nuts, raiseand support the vehicle and remove the
relevant wheel.
3Disconnect the pad wear warning wires,
when fitted.
4Disconnect the flexible hose from the brake
pipe. Plug or cap the open unions to reduce
spillage and to keep dirt out. Unscrew the
flexible hose from the caliper and remove it.
5Remove the two slide bolts. Lift the caliper
off the pads and bracket, at the same time
unhooking the handbrake cable (see
illustrations). Alternatively, the two bracket-
to-hub bolts can be removed and the caliper
and bracket separated on the bench.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the wheel, bleed both rear
calipers as described in Section 2.
7When bleeding is complete, pump the brake
pedal several times to bring the pads up to the
disc, then check the operation of the
handbrake.
Note: Complete dismantling of the rear caliper
should not be attempted unless Ford spring
compressor (tool No 12-007) is available. or
unless the problems likely to arise in the absence
of the tool are understood. Renewal of the piston
seal and dust boot requires no special tools.
1Clean the caliper externally and mount it in a
soft-jawed vice.
2Rotate the piston anti-clockwise until it isprotruding from the bore by about 20 mm (0.8 in).
Free the dust boot from the groove in the
piston, then carry on unscrewing the piston
and remove it. Remove and discard the dust
boot.
3The piston and bore may now be cleaned
and examined, and the piston seal and dust
boot renewed, as described for the front
caliper (Section 10).
4The piston adjuster nut seal should also be
renewed. Remove the circlip from the piston,
then extract the thrustwashers, wave washer
and thrust bearing. Note the fitted sequence of
these components. Finally remove the nut
(see illustrations).
5Remove the seal from the nut, noting which
way round it is fitted. Clean the nut with
methylated spirit. Lubricate the new seal with
clean hydraulic fluid and fit it to the nut.
12Rear caliper - overhaul
11Rear caliper - removal and
refitting
10•6Braking system
10.5 Removing the piston seal
12.4a Removing the circlip from a rear
caliper piston . . .12.4b . . . followed by a thrustwasher . . .
11.5b . . . and remove the rear caliper
10.9 Pressing the piston into the bore11.5a Unhook the handbrake cable . . .
12.4c . . . a wave washer and (not shown)
another thrustwasher . . .
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fluid. Identify the hydraulic pipes and
disconnect them from the base of the unit.
Hint: Plug or cap the open unions to keep
fluid in and dirt out.
6Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side. Disconnect the spring clip which secures
the hydraulic unit pushrod to the brake pedal.
7Have an assistant support the hydraulic
unit. Remove the four nuts which hold the unit
to the bulkhead (see illustration). Withdraw
the unit from under the bonnet.
8Recover the sealing compound from the
unit and the bulkhead.
9Drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir.
Do not actuate the pushrod with the unit
removed.
10Dismantling of the hydraulic unit should be
limited to the operations described in thefollowing Sections. These operations can all
be carried out without removing the unit from
the vehicle if wished.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
noting the following points:
a)Do not refill the reservoir until the end of
refitting
b)Use new sealing compound between the
unit and the bulkhead
c)Make sure that the hydraulic pipes are
reconnected to the correct unions
d)Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion - see Section 2
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
reservoir cap.
4Remove the reservoir securing screw, which
is located just above the valve block multi-
plug (see illustration).
5Make arrangements to catch spilt fluid, then
disconnect the low pressure hose from its
connections to the pump. The hose is secured
by a spring clip (see illustrations). Allow the
brake fluid to drain out of the hose.
6Pull the reservoir out of the seals on the
hydraulic unit and remove it (see illustration).7Note the spigot locating bush on the rear
inlet union, which may stay in the hydraulic
unit or may come out with the reservoir (see
illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new seals between the hydraulic unit and
the reservoir.
9Bleed the complete hydraulic system on
completion (Section 2). Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Wrap a clean rag round the base of the
accumulator to catch any spilt fluid.
4Unscrew the accumulator using a hexagon
key. Remove the accumulator, being prepared
for fluid spillage (see illustration).
5When refitting, fit a new O-ring to the base
of the accumulator. Fit the accumulator and
tighten it.
6Reconnect the battery. Switch on the
ignition and check that the hydraulic unit
pump stops within 60 seconds. If not, there
may be something wrong with the
accumulator.
7Bleed the complete hydraulic system as
described in Section 2.
17Hydraulic unit accumulator -
removal and refitting
16Hydraulic unit fluid reservoir -
removal and refitting
Braking system 10•9
10
15.7 Four nuts (arrowed) which hold the
hydraulic unit to the bulkhead
16.4 Undoing the reservoir securing screw16.5a Extract the spring clip . . .
16.6 Removing the hydraulic fluid reservoir
16.5b . . . and disconnect the hose
16.7 The spigot locating bush fits into this
union17.4 Removing the accumulator
Note O-ring (arrowed)
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1Remove the accumulator (Section 17).
2Disconnect the high pressure hose from the
pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
3Disconnect the low pressure hose from the
pump. Allow the fluid to drain out of the
reservoir through the hose.
4Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
pressure switch and the pump motor.
5Remove the pump mounting bolt (see
illustration).
6Pull the pump and motor assembly off the
mounting spigot and remove it.
7Recover the mounting bushes and renew
them if necessary.
8If a new pump is to be fitted, transfer the
pressure switch to it, using a new O-ring.
9Commence refitting by offering the pump to
the spigot, then reconnecting the low pressure
hose.
10Refit and tighten the pump mounting bolt.
11Reconnect the high pressure hose, using
new sealing washers on the banjo union.
12Refit the accumulator, using a new O-ring.
13Reconnect the multi-plugs and the
battery.
14Refill the reservoir, then switch on the
ignition and allow the pump to prime itself. Do
not let the pump run for more than two
minutes - see Section 3. Check for leaks
around the disturbed components.
15Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Note: To remove the pressure switch from the
hydraulic unit in situ, Ford tool No 12-008, or
equivalent, will be required. The switch may be
removed without special tools after removing
the hydraulic unit complete (Section 16) or the
pump (Section 18).
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
3Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch,
then unscrew and remove it.4When refitting, use a new O-ring on the
switch. Position the plastic sleeve so that the
hole in the sleeve is facing the pump motor
(see illustration). Tighten the switch.
5Reconnect the multi-plug and the battery.
6Bleed the complete system (Section 2).
1There are two hoses on the hydraulic unit.
The low pressure hose connects the reservoir
to the pump inlet; the high pressure hose
connects the pump outlet to the booster and
valve block.
2To remove either hose, first disconnect the
battery. Depressurise the hydraulic system by
pumping the brake pedal at least 20 times, or
until it becomes hard.
Low pressure hose
3Have ready a container to catch spilt fluid.
Remove the spring clip and pull the hose off
the pump inlet. Allow the contents of the
reservoir to drain out of the hose and into the
container.
4Pull the hose off the reservoir and remove it.
5Refit by connecting the hose to the reservoir
and pump inlet. Secure the hose to the pump
with the spring clip.
6Refill the reservoir, reconnect the battery
and bleed the complete system (Section 2).
Check for leaks.
High pressure hose
7Remove the banjo bolts which secure the
hose. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
8Remove the hose and recover the sealing
washers.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new sealing washers on both sides of
each union (see illustration).
10Reconnect the battery and bleed the
complete system (Section 2). Check for leaks.
1Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew defective items without delay.
2Before removing any pipe or hose,
depressurise the hydraulic system by
switching off the ignition and pumping the
brake pedal 20 times, or until it becomes hard.
3To remove a flexible hose, first undo the
union nut which secures the rigid pipe to it.
The use of a split ring spanner, sold for this
purpose, is recommended (see illustration).
Be prepared for hydraulic fluid spillage, and
take precautions to keep dirt out.
4Having disconnected the rigid pipe, release
the hose from the bracket by removing the
locknut and washer (see illustration).
21Brake pipes and hoses -
inspection, removal and refitting
20Hydraulic unit hoses -
removal and refitting
19Hydraulic unit pressure
switch - removal and refitting
18Hydraulic unit pump and
motor - removal and refitting
10•10Braking system
18.5 Hydraulic unit pump mounting bolt
21.3 Undoing a rigid pipe union nut
Flexible hose locknut is just above21.4 Removing a flexible hose from its
bracket
19.4 Refitting the pressure switch
Hole (arrowed) in sleeve must face pump motor20.9 Fitting new sealing washers to a banjo
union
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