warning light FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Owner's Manual

34Renew the bulb, check for correct
operation, then refit the disturbed components
(see illustration).
Automatic transmission selector
light
35Carefully pull off the selector housing.
Remove the selector knob by unscrewing it.
36Release the selector indicator plate, which
is secured by two clips. Remove the indicator
plate by sliding it up the selector stalk.
37Remove the selector guide plate, which is
secured by four screws. Extract the bulbholder
and renew the bulb (see illustration).
38An alternative means of access is by
removing the centre console.
39Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear console light
40Remove the rear heater control lever knob
by pulling it off.
41Remove the rear console panel, which is
secured by two screws at the top.
42Free the bulbholder by twisting it anti-
clockwise. Renew the wedge base bulb.
43Refit the bulbholder and the other
disturbed components.
Hazard warning switch light
44Remove the steering column upper
shroud, which is secured by three screws.
45Make sure that the switch is in the “off”
position, then pull off the switch cap.
46Pull out the wedge base bulb and press in
the new one.47Refit the switch cap and the steering
column upper shroud.
Clock light
48If the clock is in the instrument panel,
renewal is as described for the other
instrument panel lights.
49To renew the light bulb in the overhead
type of clock, first remove the overhead
console.
50Remove the back of the clock, which is
secured by two screws, for access to the bulb.
51Renew the bayonet fitting bulb (see
illustration). Refit the back of the clock, then
refit the overhead console.
Models before April 1992
1Although not essential, it is wise to
disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws. Disengage
the switch symbol illumination light from the
surround.
3Remove the four screws which secure the
instrument cluster.
4Partly withdraw the instrument cluster,
disconnect the multi-plugs and remove the
cluster (see illustrations). The multi-plugs are
colour coded and not interchangeable; when a
graphic display module is fitted, its multi-plughas a red locking mechanism which must be
retracted before the plug can be
disconnected.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
6For these models, note the following points:
a)The instrument cluster surround is
retained by two screws and two clips. It
will also be necessary to disconnect the
panel dimmer switch (see illustration).
b)When removing the cluster note that it will
also be necessary to release the retaining
clip and disconnect the speedometer
cable (see illustration).On refitting push
the cable back into position and check
that it is securely held in position with the
retaining clip.
7Instrument cluster - removal
and refitting
Body electrical system 13•9
13
6.37 Automatic transmission selector with
bulbholder displaced6.51 Renewing the clock bulb
7.4b Removing the instrument cluster7.6a Disconnect the dimmer switch wiring
connector as the surround is removed7.6b Release the retaining clip and
disconnect the cable from the cluster
7.4a Instrument cluster viewed through
windscreen to show multi-plugs
6.34 Renewing the heater control light bulb
procarmanuals.com

1With the instrument cluster removed, a
particular gauge or other component can be
renewed by following the appropriate parts of
this Section.
2Remove all the light bulbs and holders from
the rear of the panel by twisting them anti-
clockwise.
3To remove the printed circuit, unclip and
remove the two multi-plug terminal retainers.
Remove all the nuts and washers from the
printed circuit terminals, then unclip and
remove the printed circuit. Be careful with it, it
is fragile (see illustration).
4To remove the instrument cluster glass,
release the two securing clips from thebottom
edge of the glass. Swing the glass upwards
and remove it.
5With the glass removed, the speedometer,
fuel and temperature gauges can be removed
individually after undoing their securing nuts or
screws. To remove the clock or tachometer,
the printed circuit must be removed as well.
6When fitted, the low fuel/high temperature
warning light bulbs can be renewed after
removing the combined gauge unit. Use
tweezers to extract the old bulb and to fit the
new one.
7The graphic display module, when fitted,
can be removed after undoing its two securing
screws.
8Reassemble the instrument cluster by
reversing the dismantling operations.
1To remove the clock from the instrument
panel, refer to the previous Section.
2To remove the clock from the overhead
console, first remove the console.
3Remove the clock rear cover, which is
secured by two screws.
4Remove the two screws which secure the
clock itself, then withdraw the clock.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Front lighter
2On models with high level trim, pull the
centre console surround away from the radio
to gain access to the lighter. On models with
low level trim, remove the radio/cassette unit.
3Disconnect the wires from the cigarette
lighter and push it out of the illuminated ring.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear lighter
5Pull off the rear heater control lever knob.
6Remove the rear console panel, which is
secured by two screws.
7Disconnect the wires from the lighter and
push it out of the illuminated ring.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Two horns are fitted as standard. The high
tone horn is located to the right of the radiator
and is accessible from under the bonnet. The
low tone horn is located below and to the left
of the radiator and is accessible from below.
2Remove the horn securing nut or bolt and
recover the shakeproof washer.
3Disconnect the wiring and remove the horn.4When refitting the horn, make sure it is
correctly positioned before tightening the
securing nut or bolt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Switch plate
2Pull off the steering wheel centre cover.
3Undo the three screws which retain the
switch plate. Disconnect and remove the
switch plate (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Slip rings
5Remove the steering wheel.
6Release the tangs which secure the slip
rings to the underside of the steering wheel.
Disconnect the slip rings from the switch plate
and remove them.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Brushes
8Remove the steering wheel.
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
10Disconnect the wiring from the horn
brushes. Carefully lever out the brush unit,
using a thin screwdriver inserted into the
bottom edge of the unit(see illustration).
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the seat.
2Remove the seat cushion or backrest trim.
3Note which way round the heating element
is facing (see illustration),then remove the
wire clips and adhesive tape which secure it to
the seat. Retrieve the tie-rod and fit it to the
new element.
4Fit the new element with the thermostat
facing the cushion foam. Secure the element
with wire clips and tape, ensuring that it is not
too tight - it must be able to flex under load.
5Refit the cushion or backrest trim.
6Refit the seat and check the heating
elements for correct operation.
13Seat heating elements -
removal and refitting
12Horn switch plate, slip rings
and brushes - removal and
refitting
11Horn - removal and refitting
10Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
9Clock - removal and refitting
8Instrument cluster - dismantling
and reassembly
13•10Body electrical system
8.3 Instrument cluster printed circuit
Unclip retainers at their top ends (arrowed)
13.3 Seat heating element
Thermostat (arrowed) must face the foam
12.3 Three screws (arrowed) secure the
horn switch plate12.10 Removing the horn brush unit
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20When refitting, check the switch for
correct operation before refitting the shrouds
and steering wheel centre cover. When fitting
the shrouds, be careful not to trap the switch
rubber gaiter.
Models from April 1992
21Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Windscreen wipe/wash switch
Models before April 1992
22Proceed as described in the previous sub-
section for the direction indicator switch.
Depending on equipment, the wipe/wash
switch may have more than one multi-plug
connected to it.
Models from April 1992
23Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Door pillar switch (for courtesy
light)
24Remove the single securing screw and pull
the switch from its location (see illustration).
25Retain the wiring with (for instance) string
or a clothes peg, so that it cannot fall into the
door pillar, then disconnect the switch.
26Lubricate the plunger of the switch with a
little petroleum jelly when refitting
Reversing light switch (manual
gearbox)
27Raise the front of the vehicle and support
it securely.
28Locate the reversing light switch, which is
located on the right-hand side of the gearbox.
29Disconnect the wiring from the switch,
wipe clean around it and unscrew it.
30When refitting, make sure that the switch
wiring is routed sufficiently far from the
exhaust system to avoid damage due to heat.
Window operating switch
31The window operating switch is removed
from the armrest or console in the same way
as the mirror control switch previously
described (see illustration).
Sliding roof switch
32Carefully prise the switch from the overhead
console using a thin-bladed screwdriver.
33Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Tailgate lock switch
34The tailgate lock switch controls the
luggage area lights. When appropriate, it also
provides inputs to the auxiliary warning and
anti-theft systems.
35To avoid damage to other components,
the battery must be disconnected before the
tailgate lock switch is removed.
36Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.37Release the switch locking tab, pivot the
switch away from the lock and disconnect it.
38When refitting, make sure that the slot on
the switch engages with the operating lug on
the lock barrel.
Handbrake “ON” switch
39Gain access to the base of the handbrake
lever by removing the rubber gaiter and (if
necessary) the centre console or switch panel
(see illustration).
40Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
switch. Undo the two screws and remove the
switch, noting how the screws do not pass
through holes in the lever but engage in slots.
41After refitting the switch, check for correct
operation before refitting the surrounding trim.
Stop-light switch
42Remove the under-dash trim on the
driver’s side. The trim is secured by plastic
clips.
43Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
Turn the switch 90°anti-clockwise and
remove it from the brake pedal bracket (see
illustration).
44When refitting, hold the pedal in the fully
raised position, push in the switch and turn it
clockwise to lock it. Release the pedal and
check that at least 2 mm (0.08 in) of the switch
plunger is visible (see illustration).
Oil pressure warning switch
All engines except DOHC
45This switch is located on the left-hand side
of the cylinder block. Access may be impeded
by one of the manifolds and associated
equipment.
46Disconnect the wire from the switch, then
unscrew the switch and remove it.
47Clean the switch and its seat before
refitting. Apply a little sealant to the switch
threads if wished.
48Run the engine and check that there are
no oil leaks from the switch. Stop the engine
and check the oil level.
DOHC engines
49On these engines the switch is located on
the right-hand side of the cylinder block
between the core plugs.
13•12Body electrical system
15.24 Door pillar switch securing screws
(arrowed)
15.43 Stop-light switch fitted to brake
pedal bracket
15.44 Fitting the stop-light switch (A)
Plunger protrusion (between arrows) must be
at least 2 mm (0.08 in)
15.31 Removing a window operating switch15.39 Handbrake “On” switch
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Heated rear window switch
Models before April 1992
50Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws.
51Carefully prise the switch from its location,
disconnect the multi-plug and remove it.
Models from April 1992
52Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the switch out of the centre
facia vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector.
53On refitting, reconnect the wiring
connector and push the switch in until it clicks
into position.
Foglight switch(es)
54These are removed in the same way as the
heated rear window switch (see illustration).
Hazard warning switch
55This is integral with the direction indicator
switch.
Front seat adjusting switch
56Remove the seat trim panel.
57Prise the operating levers off the switch
with a thin-bladed screwdriver (see
illustration).
58Remove the two securing screws,
withdraw the switch and unplug it.
Rear seat adjusting switch
59This is removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Heated seat control switches
60These are removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Starter inhibitor/reversing light
switch (automatic transmission)
61Refer to Chapter 7 part B.
Fuses
1The battery positive (live) lead is protected
by a fusible link. If this link melts, a major
short-circuit is indicated and expert advice
should be sought before repairing it.
2The main fuse/relay box is located under the
bonnet, near the bulkhead on the right-hand
side. It contains up to 24 fuses and nearly as
many relays (according to equipment). Fuse
applications are listed on the underside of the
fuse box lid (see illustration).
3There is an auxiliary fuse box inside the
vehicle, accessible after opening the glovebox
(see illustration). An in-line fuse for the radio
is located under the facia on the left-hand
side, near the heater.4The“blade” type fuses are colour-coded to
show their current rating. A blown fuse can be
recognised by the melted wire link in the
middle.
5To renew a blown fuse, first switch off the
circuit concerned. Pull the old fuse out of its
holder, using tweezers or long-nosed pliers.
Press in a new fuse of the same rating and try
the circuit again.
6If the new fuse blows immediately or within
a short time, do not carry on renewing fuses
but look for a short-circuit in the wiring to the
item(s) protected by the fuse. When more than
one item is protected by a single fuse,
switching on one item at a time until the fuse
blows will help to isolate the defect.
7Never fit a fuse of a higher rating (current
capacity) than specified, and do not bypass
fuses with silver foil or strands of wire. Serious
damage, including fire, could result.
8In some positions (such as for power
window and seat adjustment motors) circuit
breakers are fitted instead of fuses. These are
normally self-resetting once the cause of the
overload has been cleared.
Relays
9If a circuit or system served by a relay
develops a fault, always remember that the
problem could be in the relay. Testing is by
substitution of a known good unit. Beware of
substituting relays which look the same but
perform different functions(see illustration).10To renew a relay, simply unplug it from its
holder and plug in the new one. Access to the
relays in the main fuse box is as described for
the fuses. Access to the relays located behind
the facia is achieved by removing the facia
top.
11The sliding roof relay is located in the
overhead console.
Control units and modules
12The two major modules are the EEC IV
module (on fuel-injection models) and the ABS
control module. These are located below the
glovebox on the passenger side, and are
accessible after removing the under-dash trim.
13As with relays, testing by the home
mechanic is limited to substitution of known
good units. This is likely to be prohibitively
expensive on a trial and error basis so in case
of problems a Ford dealer or other competent
specialist should be consulted at an early
stage.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead and
unlock all the doors before starting work on
the central locking system. Make sure that the
keys are outside the vehicle before
reconnecting the battery on completion.
2Remove the door interior trim panel.
17Central locking motor -
removal and refitting
16Fuses, relays and control
units - removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•13
13
15.54 Removing a foglight switch15.57 Removing the front seat adjusting
switch
16.2 Main fuse/relay box under the bonnet16.3 Auxiliary fuse box in the glovebox
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13•14Body electrical system
16.9 Typical arrangement of relays, control units and module
LHD shown - RHD is mirror image
A Taxi equipment
B Bulb failure module
C EEC IV module
D ABS module
E Rear headphone relay
F Auxiliary warning system control unit
G Speed control system module
H Anti-theft alarm module
I Warning display lighting
K Relay bank
1 Inlet manifold heater relay (carburettor)
2 Fuel pump relay (fuel-injection)
3 Power hold relay (carburettor)
4 Injector relay (fuel-injection)
5 Heated windscreen relay
6 Heated windscreen timer
7 Cooling fan relay (air conditioning)
8 ABS pump relay
9 ABS relay
10 ABS diodes
12 Ride height control relay
12 Day running lights relay (not UK)
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Computer module and bulb
Models before April 1992
2Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws.
3Carefully pull the module from its location.
Release the multi-plug by pressing
downwards and disconnect it.
4The module illumination bulbholder may
now be extracted by gripping it with pliers and
twisting it anti-clockwise (see illustration).
Extract the old wedge base bulb, press in the
new one and refit the bulb and holder.
5Reconnect the multi-plug and press the
module back into its hole. Check for correct
operation, then refit the instrument panel
surround.
Models from April 1992
6Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
7Undo the two instrument cluster surround
retaining screws then release the two retaining
clips and remove the surround. Disconnect the
instrument cluster dimmer switch as it is
removed.
8Pull off the three knobs from the heater and
ventilation controls to gain access to the two
hidden central vent panel retaining screws.
Slacken and remove the four panel retaining
screws and partially withdraw the panel.
Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
heated window switches and fuel computer
and remove the panel from the car.
9Undo the four fuel computer retaining
screws and remove the computer from the
vent panel (see illustration).
10Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Fuel flow sensor (carburettor
models only)
11The fuel flow sensor is located under the
bonnet, on the left-hand inner wing (see
illustration).
12Disconnect the battery negative lead.
13Disconnect the multi-plug and the fuel
pipes from the sensor. Be prepared for fuel
spillage; plug or cap the pipes.
14Remove the three screws which secure
the sensor bracket. Remove the sensor and
bracket together; they can be separated on
the bench if wished.15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new fuel pipe clips if the old ones were
damaged during removal.
Note that if a fault develops in the AWS,
thorough testing and fault finding should be
left to a Ford dealer or other competent
specialist. Unskilled or uninformed testing may
cause further damage. When checking wires
or sensors for continuity, disconnect the
control assembly and bulb failure module first,
otherwise damage may be caused.
Warning light bulbs
1Refer to Sections 7 and 8.
Graphic display module
2Refer to Sections 7 and 8.
3The bulbs and light emitting diodes (LEDs)
can be removed from the module using
tweezers or jeweller’s pliers. When renewing
the fuel filler warning LED, note that the pip on
the LED must align with the yellow dot on the
circuit board.
Fuel filler switch
4Open the fuel filler flap and remove the cap.
5Inside the luggage area, remove the trim on
the right-hand side and disconnect the switch
multi-plug(see illustration).6Remove the screw which secures the switch
to the filler neck. Remove the switch and
withdraw its wires.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Air temperature sensor
8From under the front bumper, unclip and
disconnect the sensor multi-plug.
9Unclip the sensor from its slot by pulling the
securing tag inwards. Remove the sensor (see
illustration).
10When refitting, first connect the multi-plug.
Fit the hook on the end of the sensor into the
slot and press the sensor into place, then
secure the multi-plug in its clip.
Door/tailgate switch
11Remove the door interior ortailgate
interior trim panel (eleven screws).
12Pull the switch to detach it from the lock
and disconnect its multi-plug.
13Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Coolant level switch
14Remove the cap from the coolant
expansion tank, taking precautions against
scalding if the coolant is hot.
15Syphon coolant out of the tank if
necessary until the level is below the switch.
16Disconnect the switch multi-plug.
Unscrew the retaining ring and pull the switch
out of its grommet. Note how flats on the
grommet and switch ensure correct fitting
(see illustration).
27Auxiliary warning system
components - testing, removal
and refitting
13•18Body electrical system
26.4 Renewing the fuel computer module
bulb
27.5 Fuel filler switch screw (arrowed)27.9 Removing the air temperature sensor
26.9 Fuel computer retaining screws
(arrowed)26.11 Fuel flow sensor fitted to carburettor
models
procarmanuals.com

WD•0
Explanatory notes for wiring diagrams
Each wiring diagram covers a particular system of the vehicle; as indicated in each caption. When a number is shown on a diagram inside a box
with an arrow symbol, this indicates that the circuit concerned starts, or is continued, in the diagram having that number.
Space limitations mean that not all diagrams have been included. Therefore the diagram numbers are not consecutive, neither is it always
possible to follow a particular circuit to completion. Some diagrams are out of sequence; this is to ensure that the halves of the larger diagrams
appear on opposite pages.
The prefix C indicates a connector or multi-plug, S a soldered joint and G an earthing point (ground). The numbers appearing at the break in
each wire indicate the circuit number and wire colour.
Colour code
BLBlue
BRBrown
GEYellow
GRGrey
GNGreen
RSPink
RT Red
SWBlack
VIViolet
WSWhiteSubjectDiagram number
ABS21
Auxiliary warning system23
Central locking system14
Charge, start and run3
Charge, start and run3A
Engine management (1.8 litre)4
Engine management (2.0 litre carburettor)4A
Engine management (2.0 litre fuel-injection)5
Engine management (2.8 litre)5C
Exterior lighting7A
Heater blower11
Interior lighting10
Power 0perated windows15
Power distribution2
Power-operated sliding roof16
Radio/cassette player and associated circuits29
Signalling and warning systems9
Wipers and washers12
procarmanuals.com

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
REF•5Fault Finding
Engine1
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mStarter motor turns engine slowly
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system2
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems3
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch4
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox5
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission6
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smellm mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Propeller shaft7
m
mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Final drive and driveshafts8
m
mExcessive final drive noise
m mOil leakage from final drive
m mGrating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
Braking system9
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mPedal pulsates when braking hard
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems10
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively-stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system11
m
mLights inoperative
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction
procarmanuals.com

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m mLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).
Note:Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine runs-on after switching off
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
m mIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
mLeaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 10).
m mBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
Tapping or rattling noises
m
mWorn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft or hydraulic tappets
(Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
Knocking or thumping noises
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load) (Chapter 2).
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
REF•7Fault Finding
2Cooling system
Overheating
m
mAuxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mElectric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
m mViscous-coupled fan faulty (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
m mAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).
Overcooling
m
mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
m mCore plug leaking (Chapter 2).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Corrosion
m
mInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
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Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated
with engine running
m m
Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).m
mAlternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).m
mAlternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).m
mInternal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).m
mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5).
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m m
Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 13).m
mBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapter 13).
m mAlternator faulty (Chapter 5).
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m m
Battery defective internally (Chapter 5).m
mBattery electrolyte level low - where applicable (Chapter 1).m
mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).m
mAuxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted, where applicable
(Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).m
mAlternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).m
mShort-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 13).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
m
mFaulty voltage regulator (Chapter 13).
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
m
mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 4 and 5).m
mWiring open-circuit (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty gauge (Chapter 13).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading
m mFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 4 and 5).m
mWiring short-circuit (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty gauge (Chapter 13).
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn operates all the time
m
mHorn contacts permanently bridged or horn push stuck down
(Chapter 13).
Horn fails to operate
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 13).
m mFaulty horn (Chapter 13).
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
m
mCable connections loose (Chapter 13).m
mHorn mountings loose (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty horn (Chapter 13).
Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
m mWiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapters 1 and 13).
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 13).
m mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty wiper motor (Chapter 13).
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
m mWiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).m
mExcessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 13).m
mWiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 13).
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
m
mWiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).m
mWiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 13).m
mInsufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (Chapter 1).
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
m mBlocked washer jet (Chapter 1).m
mDisconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 13).m
mInsufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).
Washer pump fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty washer switch (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty washer pump (Chapter 13).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
m mFaulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 13).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
m mFaulty switch (Chapter 13).
Window glass slow to move
m
mRegulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication (Chapter 12).m
mDoor internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 12).m
mFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Window glass fails to move
m
mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty motor (Chapter 13).
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory
in operation
Complete system failure
m mBlown fuse (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
m
mFaulty switch (Chapter 13).m
mBroken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers (Chapter 12).m
mFaulty relay (Chapter 13).
One solenoid/motor fails to operate
m
mBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 13).m
mFaulty solenoid/motor (Chapter 12).m
mBroken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 12).
m mFault in door latch (Chapter 12).
REF•11Fault Finding
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