torque FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Manual PDF

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For
the owner who does not possess any, their
purchase will prove a considerable expense,
offsetting some of the savings made by doing-
it-yourself. However, provided that the tools
purchased meet the relevant national safety
standards and are of good quality, they will
last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings:
Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &
19 mmMAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MGearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm
dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in the
Maintenance and minor repairlist. Included in
this list is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found invaluable as they are so versatile -
particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket
set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive
tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)*
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammerMSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustration)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
* Some Imperial sized nuts and bolts may be
found on air conditioning and automatic
transmission components
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturer’s instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy many
of these tools. Where this is the case, you
could consider clubbing together with friends
(or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint
purchase, or borrowing the tools against a
deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large range
of special tools for hire at modest rates.
REF•1
Spline bit setValve spring compressorSockets and reversible ratchet drive
Tools and Working Facilities
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REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
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REF•16
Length (distance)Inches (in)X25.4=Millimetres (mm)X0.0394=Inches (in)
Feet (ft)X0.305=Metres (m)X3.281=Feet (ft)
MilesX1.609=Kilometres (km)X0.621=Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3)X16.387=Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3)X0.061=Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt)X0.568=Litres (l)X1.76=Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)X1.137=Litres (l)X0.88=Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)X1.201=US quarts (US qt)X0.833=Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)X0.946=Litres (l)X1.057=US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)X4.546=Litres (l)X0.22=Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)X1.201=US gallons (US gal)X0.833=Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)X3.785=Litres (l)X0.264=US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz)X28.35=Grams (g)X0.035=Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb)X0.454=Kilograms (kg)X2.205=Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz)X0.278=Newtons (N)X3.6=Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb)X4.448=Newtons (N)X0.225=Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N)X0.1=Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)X9.81=Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inchX0.070=Kilograms-force per squareX14.223=Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inchX0.068=Atmospheres (atm)X14.696=Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inchX0.069=BarsX14.5=Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inchX6.895=Kilopascals (kPa)X0.145=Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa)X0.01=Kilograms-force per squareX98.1=Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm
2; kg/cm2)
Millibar (mbar)X100=Pascals (Pa)X0.01=Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)X0.0145=Pounds-force per square inchX68.947=Millibar (mbar)
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)
Millibar (mbar)X0.75=Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)X1.333=Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)X0.401=Inches of water (inH
2O)X2.491=Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)X0.535=Inches of water (inH
2O)X1.868=Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH
2O)X0.036=Pounds-force per square inchX27.68=Inches of water (inH2O)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inchesX1.152=Kilograms-force centimetreX0.868=Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)(kgf cm; kg cm)(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inchesX0.113=Newton metres (Nm)X8.85=Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inchesX0.083=Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)X12=Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)X0.138=Kilograms-force metresX7.233=Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)X1.356=Newton metres (Nm)X0.738=Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm)X0.102=Kilograms-force metresX9.804=Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)
Power
Horsepower (hp)X745.7=Watts (W)X0.0013=Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)X1.609=Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)X0.621=Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)X0.354=Kilometres per litre (km/l)X2.825=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)
Miles per gallon, US (mpg)X0.425=Kilometres per litre (km/l)X2.352=Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km),
where mpg (Imperial) x l/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x l/100 km = 235
Conversion Factors
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