light FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Repair Manual

Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See end of Chapter
Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer
for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak
condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or drivenfrequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 3).
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 3).
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 3).
m mCheck the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).
m mVisually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or
damage (Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
(Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
level - where applicable (Section 6).
m mCheck the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months – whichever comes sooner
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
m mCheck brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)
m mCheck tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
m mCheck idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)
m mCheck idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first
6000 miles only (Section 16)
m mClean oil filler cap (Section 14)
m mInspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
m mCheck function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)
m mCheck operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
m mCheck condition and security of exhaust system
(Section 12).
Ford Granada maintenance schedule
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1•3
1
Maintenance Schedule
Engine oil
SOHC:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.75 litres (6.6 pints)
DOHC:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.5 litres (7.9 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.0 litres (7.0 pints)
V6:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4.25 litres (7.5 pints)
Cooling system
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.0 litres (14.1 pints)
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)
Fuel tank
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 litres (15.4 gallons)
Manual gearbox
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.25 litres (2.2 pints)
Automatic transmission
All models (from dry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8.5 litres (15.0 pints)
Final drive
7 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.9 litres (1.6 pints)
7.5 inch crownwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.3 litres (2.3 pints)
Power steering
OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.65 litres (1.1 pints)
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.75 litres (1.3 pints)
Capacities
1 Battery
2 Engine oil dipstick
3 Inlet manifold
4 Throttle/kickdown cable
bracket
5 Suspension turrets
6 Ignition coil
7 Air cleaner cover
8 Fuel pressure regulator
9 Vane airflow meter
10 Headlight covers
11 Tune-up label
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Oil filler cap
14 Spark plug leads
15 VIN plate
16 Radiator hoses
17 Horn
18 Windscreen washer
pump19 Windscreen washer
reservoir
20 Alternator
21 Coolant expansion tank
cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Automatic transmission
fluid dipstick
25 Brake fluid reservoir
cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit
accumulator
27 Brake hydraulic unit
valve block
28 Main fuse/relay box
29 Wiper motor (behind
cover)
30 Heater blower cover
1 Windscreen wiper motor
2 Battery
3 Suspension strut top
mounting
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Ignition distributor
6 Coolant expansion tank
7 Washer fluid reservoir
8 Automatic transmission
fluid dipstick
9 Oil filler cap
10 Engine oil level dipstick
11 Air cleaner element
housing
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Ignition module
14 Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensor15 Throttle position sensor
16 Power steering fluid
reservoir
17 Anti-theft alarm horn
18 Speed control system
diaphragm
19 Speed control system
vacuum pump
20 Vehicle identification
(VIN) plate
21 Fuel pressure regulator
22 Air charge temperature
sensor
23 Manifold absolute
pressure (MAP) sensor
vapour trap
24 Fuse/relay boxUnder-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with
fuel-injection
Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre DOHC Granada with
fuel-injection
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1•4Maintenance Schedule
1 Battery
2 Suspension turrets
3 Air cleaner cover
4 Vane airflow meters
5 Headlight covers
6 Tune-up label
7 Auxiliary driving light covers
8 Crankcase ventilation hoses
9 Throttle linkage cover
10 Throttle cable and kickdown switch
11 Plenum chamber
12 Idle speed control valve
13 Radiator top hose
14 Oil filler cap
15 Power steering fluid reservoir
16 Horn
17 Washer fluid level switch
18 Windscreen washer pump
19 Windscreen washer reservoir
20 Coolant level switch
21 Coolant expansion tank cap
22 Engine mounting
23 Heater hose
24 Brake hydraulic unit valve block
25 Brake fluid reservoir cap
26 Brake hydraulic unit accumulator
27 Main fuse/relay box
28 Wiper motor (behind cover)
29 Heater blower cover
30 Fuel pressure regulator
31 Distributor screening lid
32 Engine oil dipstick
33 Automatic transmission fluid dipstick Under-bonnet view of a 2.8 litre V6 Granada
1 Brake and fuel pipes
2 Transmission sump
3 Transmission crossmember
4 Speedometer sender unit
5 Propeller shaft coupling
6 Exhaust flanged joint
7 Exhaust mounting
8 Exhaust pipe
9 Jacking points
10 Anti-roll bar clamps
11 Anti-roll bar
12 Brake calipers
13 Brake flexible hoses
14 Suspension lower arms
15 Front crossmember
16 Track rods
17 Track rod ends
18 Steering rack bellows
19 Radiator bottom hose
20 Alternator
21 Transmission fluid cooler hoses
22 Crankshaft pulley
23 Fan
24 Oil filter
25 Sump drain plug
26 Starter motor
27 Starter motor solenoid Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre SOHC Granada with automatic transmission
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to release any pressure. When pressure has
been released, carry on unscrewing the cap
and remove it.
9Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified
coolant (see illustration).In an emergency
plain water is better than nothing, but
remember that it is diluting the proper coolant.
Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine whilst it is still hot.
10Refit the expansion tank cap securely
when the level is correct. With a sealed type
cooling system like this, the addition of
coolant should only be necessary at very
infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak in the
system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint
faces for any sign of staining or actual
wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks
can be found, it is advisable to have the
pressure cap and the entire system pressure-
tested by a dealer or suitably-equipped
garage, as this will often show up a small leak
not previously apparent.
Brake fluid
Be sure to use only the specified brake
hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of
fluid can cause damage to the system. See
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”at the
beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid,
it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for
contamination. The system should be drained
and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or
contamination are seen in the fluid.
11Check the brake fluid level as follows.
12With the vehicle parked on level ground
and the ignition switched off, pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels
hard.
13Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition:
the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running.
Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the
ignition.
14The fluid level in the reservoir should now
be between the MAX and MIN marks. If
topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical
connectors from the cap, then unscrew and
remove it (see illustration).Catch the
hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level
sensor with a piece of rag.
15Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the
specified type (see illustration).Do not
overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap
immediately.16The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
Washer fluid
17When topping-up the windscreen or rear
screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash
additive should be added in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.
1On later models tyres may have tread wear
safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a
simple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
2Wheels and tyres should give no real
problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or
damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstancesshould
an attempt be made to reduce the pressures
to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.
4Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.
4Tyre checks
1•7
1
Weekly checks
3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir
4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth4.3 Checking tyre pressure
3.9 Topping up the cooling system
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.If any brake fluid gets onto
paintwork, wash it off
immediately with clean water.
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6Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harsher ride, and the
danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread before they penetrate the
tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does
reveal that the tyre has been punctured, refit the
nail so that its point of penetration is marked.
Then immediately change the wheel, and have
the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on
a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to
the possible consequences of any damage
found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice.
8Periodically remove the wheels, and clean
any dirt or mud from the inside and outside
surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of
rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy
wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst
parking, and similarly steel wheels may
become dented or buckled. Renewal of the
wheel is very often the only course of remedial
action possible.
9The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained to avoid
excessive wear, not only to the tyres but also
to the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell,
although in many cases it is particularly
noticeable through the steering wheel.
Conversely, it should be noted that wear ordamage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels, and wheel bearing wear also fall into
this category. Balancing will not usually cure
vibration caused by such wear.
10Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If
balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.
11General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear. However, if this
is completely effective, the added expense is
incurred of replacing all four tyres at once,
which may prove financially-restrictive for
many owners.
12Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result
of wheel misalignment. The front wheels
should always be correctly aligned according
to the settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
13Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.Check the operation of all the electrical
equipment, ie. lights, direction indicators,
horn, washers, etc. Refer to the appropriate
Sections of Chapter 13 for details if any of the
circuits are found to be inoperative.
Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
Rectify any faults found.
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.
1The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2If a “traditional” type battery is fitted as a
replacement, remove the old cell covers and
check that the plate separators in each cell are
covered by approximately 6 mm (0.25 in) of
electrolyte. If the battery case is translucent,
the cell covers need not be removed to check
the level. Top-up if necessary with distilled or
de-ionized water; do not overfill, and mop up
any spillage at once(see illustration).
6Battery electrolyte level check
5Electrical system check
1•8Weekly checks
Tyre Tread Wear Patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation
(wear on both sides)
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber
(wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension
parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate
your car’s tyres to the higher
pressures specified for maximum
load or sustained high speed,
don’t forget to reduce the
pressures to normal afterwards.
Toe Wear
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of
the tread which characterises
toe wear is best checked by
feel.
Uneven Wear
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension
parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension
parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Out-of-round brake disc/drum
Machine or renew
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3Persistent need for topping-up the battery
electrolyte suggests either that the alternator
output is excessive. or that the battery is
approaching the end of its life.
4Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.1Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen,
using a solution of concentrated washer fluid
or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the
headlight lens and wiper blades.
2Check the condition of the wiper blades; if
they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. At the same time,
check the headlight wiper blades (where fitted)
for condition, and renew if necessary.
3To remove a blade, hinge the arm and blade
away from the screen. Press the tab on the
spring clip in the middle of the blade and
unhook the blade from the arm. 4Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on
the arm(see illustration).
5Check that the windscreen washer jets
operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid
towards the upper area of the wiper blade
stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the
washer jets.
7Wiper blade check
1Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge
will be removed with it. Take care, however,
not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts
of the engine when working under the vehicle.
To avoid any possibility of scalding, and toprotect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when
carrying out this work.
2Access to the underside of the vehicle will be
greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift,
driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain
plug is at the lowest point.
3Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream of
oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve. Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6Move the container into position under the
oil filter. On SOHC engines, the filter is located
on the left-hand side of the cylinder block in
front of the engine bearer. On DOHC and V6
engines, the filter is located on the right-hand
side of the cylinder block (see illustration).
7Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter, then unscrew it by hand the
rest of the way. Empty the oil from the old filter
into the container, and discard the filter.8Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do notuse any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.
10Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the ground
(if applicable).
11Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see “Lubricants and fluids”). An oil can spout
or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper
mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and
refit the filler cap.
12Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”in the
reference Sections of this manual.
8Engine oil and filter renewal
1•9
1
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
8.6 Fitting an oil filter
6.2 Topping up the battery7.4 Fitting a windscreen wiper blade
Every 6000 miles or 6 months
For maximum clarity of vision,
windscreen wiper blades
should be renewed annually,
as a matter of course.
Frequent oil and filter changes
are the most important
preventative maintenance
procedures which can be
undertaken by the DIY owner. As
engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and
contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
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1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hoseclips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.
Periodically check the belts for fraying or
other damage. If evident, renew the belt.
If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a
damp cloth using a little detergent only.
Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.
With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.
Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti-
clockwise to decrease the speed (see
illustration).
1.8 litre engine
1An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the
16Idle mixture check -
carburettor models only
15Idle speed check - 1.8 litre
SOHC
14Oil filler cap check
13Roadwheel security check
12Exhaust system check
11Seat belt check10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor
A Idle speedB Idle mixture
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1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
hinges and locks with a light machine oil.
2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
SOHC and V6 engines
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number
each lead using sticky tape or paint.
3Pull the HT lead connectors off the plugs.
Pull on the connectors, not on the leads.
4Blow away any dirt from around the spark
plug recesses in the cylinder head(s).
5Unscrew and remove the plugs, using a
proprietary plug spanner or a spark plug
socket, extension and ratchet.
6The condition of the plugs will tell much
about the overall condition of the engine. If the
insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and
white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a
weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
7If the tip and insulator nose are covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
9Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to
the threads of the new plugs. Make sure that
theinsulators are clean and that the screwed
HT lead adapters are tight. Pay particular
attention to the plug seating surfaces on OHC
engines, since these plugs have no sealing
washers (“taper seat” type) and any dirt will
cause a bad seal.
10Screw each plug into its hole by hand. If a
plug is reluctant to go in, do not force it with a
spanner, but unscrew it and try again. If the
plug is cross-threaded, it is the cylinder head
which will be damaged.11Final tightening of the spark plugs should
ideally be carried out using a torque wrench.
The tightening torques are given in the
Specifications. If a torque wrench is not
available, tighten the plugs beyond the point
where they contact the head as follows:
OHC (taper seat plugs) - One-sixteenth of a
turn maximum
V6 (plugs with washers) - One-quarter of a
turn maximum
12If the taper seat type of plug is
overtightened, the sealing faces will bite
together and removal will be very difficult.
13Refit the HT leads to the plugs, paying
attention to the cylinder numbers. Push each
connector firmly onto its plug.
14Run the engine to verify that the HT leads
have been refitted correctly.
DOHC engines
15Proceed as described above whilst noting
the following points.
a)Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
b)The minimal length of number 3 HT lead
makes removal from the spark plug
difficult. It is advisable to remove this lead
from the distributor prior to removing it
from the spark plug.
c)The spark plugs are deeply recessed in
the cylinder head and it will be necessary
to use a spark plug socket with a long
extension bar. If possible, use a spark plug
socket with a rubber grip inside as this will
hold onto the spark plug once loosened
and will enable the spark plugs to be
withdrawn and refitted more easily.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1All of these engines have one or two
drivebelts which drive the water pump and
alternator from the crankshaft pulley. When
power steering is fitted, the same belts drive
the steering pump. The air conditioning
compressor, when fitted, is driven
independently.
2Periodically inspect the drivebelt(s) for
fraying, cracks, glazing or other damage. Turn
the engine so that the full length of the belt(s)
can be viewed. Renew belts which are in poor
condition. When twin drivebelts are fitted, both
must be renewed together, even if only one is
damaged.
3Check the tension of the drivebelt(s) by
pressing firmly with the fingers in the middle of
the longest belt run (engine stopped). Tension
is correct when the belt can be deflected by
10 mm (0.4 in) under firm finger pressure (see
illustration).
4Renewal and adjustment procedures for
models with power steering are given in
Chapter 11. For other models proceed as
follows.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6On models with air conditioning, remove the
compressor drivebelt.
7Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting
bolts. Swing the alternator towards the engine
and slip the belt(s) off the pulleys.
8Fit the new belt(s) over the pulleys. Move
the alternator away from the engine until the
belt tension is correct, then tighten the
alternator adjusting strap and pivot bolts. If it
is necessary to lever against the alternator to
achieve the correct tension, only do so using a
wooden or plastic lever(seeillustration).
9Refit and tension the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, when applicable.
10Reconnect the battery. If a new drivebelt
has been fitted, run the engine for a few
minutes, then stop it and recheck the tension.
11Check the tension of new belts again after
a few hundred miles.
21Auxiliary drivebelt check
20Spark plug renewal
19Hinge and lock check and
lubrication
1•12Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
21.3 Checking drivebelt tension
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-
threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16-
inch internal diameter rubber hose over
the end of the spark plug. The flexible
hose acts as a universal joint to help
align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread,
the hose will slip on the spark plug,
preventing thread damage to the
aluminium cylinder head. Remove the
rubber hose, and tighten the plug to the
specified torque using the spark plug
socket and a torque wrench. Fit the
remaining spark plugs in the same
manner.
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1Remove the radiator grille being careful not
to damage the condenser fins.
2Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The
engine should be cold and the ambient
temperature should be between 18°and 25°C
(64°and 77°F).
3Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe
the refrigerant sight glass(see illustration)
and have an assistant switch on the air
conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles
should be seen in the sight glass as the
system starts up, but all bubbles should
disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
system immediately if the charge is low and do
not use it again until it has been recharged.
4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as
a maintenance operation.
1Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking”). The vehicle must be level.
3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustration).Unscrew the plug with
a hexagon key. Using a piece of bent wire as
a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than
10 mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole.
4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it.
6There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided. Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.
1Examine all steering and suspension
components for wear and damage. Pay
particular attention to dust covers and gaiters,
which if renewed promptly when damaged can
save further damage to the component
protected.
2At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms(see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed
0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints
can be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed.
3Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the
vehicle up and down at each corner in turn.
When released, it should come to rest within
one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required.Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands.
Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be
renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself
Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange
screws.
1Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary.
2Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages, and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime, which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-applied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands.
4Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to
Chapter 12 for details of repair.
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.
On 2.0 litre engines, good electrical contact
between the carburettor stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.
Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.
33Idle speed linkage clean
32Brake pipe and hose check
31Underbody inspection
30Driveshaft check
29Steering and suspension
security check
28Automatic transmission
selector linkage lubrication
27Final drive oil level check
26Air conditioner refrigerant
charge check
1•15
1
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
27.3 Final drive oil filler/level plug (arrowed)
29.2 Checking a front suspension lower
arm balljoint
26.3 Refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)
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Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30
Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5
Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
General1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See“Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2A•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2A
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