sensor FORD MONDEO 1993 Service User Guide

Removal
1Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to
check components such as oil seals and
renew them if necessary.
2Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or
renew the clutch components and pilot
bearing.
3Use a centre-punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
turning by locking the ring gear teeth, or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel/
driveplate and the cylinder block/
crankcase. Slacken the bolts evenly until all
are free.
5Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission-equipped models only),
withdraw the flywheel/driveplate; do not drop
it - it is very heavy.
Inspection
7Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 20) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft
speed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip,
and check that the sensor is securely
fastened.
Refitting
10On refitting, ensure that the
engine/transmission adaptor plate is in place
(where necessary), then fit the
flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that
all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way -
check this using the marks made on removal.
Do not forget the reinforcing plate (where
fitted).
11Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).
12The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
General
1The engine/transmission mountings
seldom require attention, but broken or
deteriorated mountings should be renewed
immediately, or the added strain placed on
the driveline components may cause damage
or wear.
2While separate mountings may be removed
and refitted individually, if more than one is
disturbed at a time - such as if theengine/transmission unit is removed from its
mountings - they must be reassembled and
their fasteners tightened in a strict sequence.
3On reassembly, the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken
by the mountings until all are correctly
aligned. Fitting the Ford service tool in place
of the front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners to
their specified torque wrench settings, and in
the sequence described in Part B of this
Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49 and 50.
Inspection
4During the check, the engine/transmission
unit must be raised slightly, to remove its
weight from the mountings.
5Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Position a jack under
the sump, with a large block of wood
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine/transmission just
enough to take the weight off the mountings.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it is supported only by a
jack!
6Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes the rubber
will split right down the centre.
7Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
Front mounting
8Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember,
slacken the two clamp screws securing the
22 Engine/transmission
mountings -
inspection and renewal
21 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and refitting
2A•24 In-car engine repair procedures
21.11 Note method used to lock
flywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are
tightened
22.8 Engine/transmission front mounting - manual transmission shown, automatic
equivalent similar
1 Transmission 3 Mounting 5 Mounting centre bolt
2 Mounting bracket 4 Front suspension subframe
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(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator) (see
illustration).
(b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end (see illustration).
(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose - from the inlet manifold (see
Chapter 9 for details).
(d) Also disconnect the vacuum hoses from
the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system
components - one from the EGR valve,
two from the EGR pipe (note that these
last two are of different sizes, as are their
pipe stubs, so that they can only be
connected the correct way round).
(e) While you are there, trace the vacuum line
from the pulse-air filter housing over the
top of the transmission, and disconnect it
by pulling the plastic pipe out of the
rubber hose just beneath the bulkhead-
mounted pulse-air solenoid valve (see
illustration).
(f) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t
get damaged as the engine/transmission
is removed.
11Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body
earth lead from the transmission’s top surface
(see illustration). Disconnect the speed-
ometer drive cable (see Chapter 12) and
secure it clear of the engine/transmission.
12Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (seeChapter 8). Where automatic transmission is
fitted, disconnect the selector cable (see
Chapter 7, Part B). Secure the cable clear of
the engine/transmission.
13Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above), disconnect the engine wiring loom
from the body as follows:
(a) Starting at the left-hand side of the engine
compartment, release and unplug the
three large electrical connectors clipped
to the suspension mounting - note the
wire clips fitted to some connectors (see
illustration).
(b) Disconnect and/or release the battery-to-
starter motor wiring, noting the single
connector which must be unplugged.
(c) Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the vehicle speed sensor,
oxygen sensor and, where fitted, the oil
level sensor wiring - unclip the connectors
to release the wiring where necessary.
(d) Work along the loom to the bulkhead,
unclipping the loom and unplugging the
various bulkhead-mounted components
connected into it, until you reach the
right-hand side of the engine
compartment (see illustration).
(e) Carefully prise the power steering fluid
reservoir upwards out of its clip on the
suspension mounting, then unscrew the
ECU connector’s retaining bolt and
unplug the connector (see illustration).
(f) Unbolt the earth lead from the right-hand
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•5
2B
4.13A Unplug three large electrical
connectors (arrowed) . . .4.13B . . . unplug engine wiring loom from
battery wiring and bulkhead components
(arrowed) . . .4.13C . . . and disconnect ECU wiring and
earth lead (arrowed) to release engine
wiring loom from vehicle body
4.9C . . . and the earth lead from the
cylinder head rear support plate/engine
lifting eye4.10A Disconnect vacuum hose shown
from rear of throttle housing . . .4.10B . . . vacuum hose (arrowed) from
union on left-hand end on inlet manifold . . .
4.10C . . . also brake servo hose (A), EGR
valve hose (B), EGR pipe hoses (C) - noting
their different sizes - and pulse-air filter
vacuum line (D)
4.11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-
body earth lead - hidden behind wiring
loom guide - from location (arrowed) on
the transmission’s top surface
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gear linkage heat shield. Reconnect the
gearchange linkage and transmission support
rods to the transmission, adjusting the linkage
using the marks made on removal (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
56Re-install the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
57Add coolant, engine oil and transmission
fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
58Run the engine, and check for proper
operation and the absence of leaks. Shut off
the engine, and recheck the fluid levels.
59Remember that, since the front suspension
subframe and steering gear have been
disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering
angles must be checked fully and carefully as
soon as possible, with any necessary
adjustments being made. This operation is best
carried out by an experienced mechanic, using
proper checking equipment; the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similarly-
qualified person for attention.
1It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine
stand. These stands can often be hired from a
tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted
on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be
removed (Part A of this Chapter, Section 21)
so that the stand bolts can be tightened into
the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.
2If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it mounted on
blocks, on a sturdy workbench or on the floor.
Be extra-careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
3If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts and other small items.These
external components include the following:
(a) Alternator and brackets (Chapter 5).
(b) HT leads and spark plugs (Chapter 1).
(c) Thermostat and housing (Chapter 3).
(d) Dipstick tube.
(e) Fuel injection system components
(Chapter 4).
(f) All electrical switches and sensors - refer
to the appropriate Chapter.
(g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
(i) Engine/transmission mounting brackets
(Part A of this Chapter, Section 22).
(j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
4If you are obtaining a “short” engine (whichconsists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order.
(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(b) Timing belt, toothed pulleys and
tensioner, and timing belt inner cover
(Part A of this Chapter).
(c) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).
(d) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(e) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(f) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Sec-
tion 16).
(g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 9).
(h) Crankshaft (Section 10).
6Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
manual for further information.
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and
from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the
fact that some specialist tools are required for
the dismantling and inspection procedures,
and new components may not be readily
available (refer to Section 1 of this Part), it may
be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original head.
1Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets (Part A of this Chapter, Section 13),
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described (see illustration).
6 Cylinder head - dismantling
5 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•9
2B
6.1 Cylinder head components
1 Hydraulic tappet
2 Valve collets
3 Valve spring upper seat
4 Valve spring5 Valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seal
6 Oil-retaining valve
7 Engine lifting eye
8 Cylinder head gasket9 Inlet valve
10 Locating dowels
11 Exhaust valve
12 Cylinder head bolt
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remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies
may result in piston ring breakage.
7Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
8Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,
double-check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
9Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
10After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.
11Don’t attempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods - see Section 12.
Note:The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine/transmission has been
removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that
the transmission and flywheel/driveplate,
timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle, oil pump,
and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have
already been removed. The crankshaft left-
hand oil seal carrier must be unbolted from
the cylinder block/crankcase before
proceeding with crankshaft removal.
1Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration).
2Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, andcheck the reading obtained. The distance that
the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat; these are part of the No 3 (centre)
main bearing upper shell (see illustration).
3If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges
can be used. Gently lever or push the
crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand
end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between
the crankshaft and the right-hand face of the
No 3 (centre) main bearing to determine the
clearance (see illustration).
4Check the main bearing caps, to see if they
are marked to indicate their locations (see
illustration). They should be numbered
consecutively from the timing belt end of the
engine - if not, mark them with number-
stamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps will
also have an embossed arrow pointing to the
timing belt end of the engine. Noting the
different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used on
caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, starting with the left- and
right-hand end caps and working toward the
centre, until they can be removed by hand.
5Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced
hammer, then separate them from the cylinder
block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop
the bearing shells if they come out with the
caps.6Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. It may be a good idea to have an
assistant available, since the crankshaft is
quite heavy. With the bearing shells in place in
the cylinder block/crankcase and main
bearing caps, return the caps to their
respective locations on the block, and tighten
the bolts finger-tight. Leaving the old shells in
place until reassembly will help prevent the
bearing recesses from being accidentally
nicked or gouged. New shells should be used
on reassembly.
Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
Cleaning
1For complete cleaning, remove the water
pump, all external components, and all
electrical switches/sensors. Unbolt the
piston-cooling oil jets or blanking plugs (as
11 Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection
10 Crankshaft - removal
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•13
2B
10.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a
feeler gauge
10.4 Before unbolting crankshaft main
bearing caps, note arrows pointing to timing
belt end of engine (A), and bearing numbers
(B) consecutive from timing belt end
9.6 A ridge reamer may be required, to
remove the ridge from the top of each
cylinder - do this before removing the
pistons!10.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a
dial gauge10.2 Thrustwashers integral with No 3
(centre) main bearing upper shell control
crankshaft endfloat
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applicable); note that Ford state that the
piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be
renewed whenever the engine is dismantled
for full overhaul (see illustrations).
2Remove the main bearing caps, and
separate the bearing shells from the caps and
the cylinder block/crankcase. Mark or label
the shells, indicating which bearing they were
removed from, and whether they were in the
cap or the block, then set them aside (see
illustration). Wipe clean the block and cap
bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks,
gouges and scratches.
3Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinderblock/crankcase, taking care not to damage
the sealing surfaces.
4Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped.
Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller (see illustration).
Caution: The core plugs (also
known as freeze or soft plugs)
may be difficult or impossible to
retrieve if they are driven into the
block coolant passages.5If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
6After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
8All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
2B•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
11.1A Remove water pump . . .11.1B . . . crankcase breather pipe and
PCV valve . . .11.1C . . . unbolt crankcase ventilation
system oil separator . . .
11.1F . . . but note that piston-cooling oil
jets (where fitted) must be renewed as a
matter of course whenever engine is
overhauled11.2 Felt marker pens can be used as
shown to identify bearing shells without
damaging them
11.1D . . . remove electrical
switches/sensors such as crankshaft
speed/position sensor . . .11.1E . . . unbolt blanking plugs (where
fitted) to clean out oilways . . .
11.4 The core plugs should be removed
with a puller - if they’re driven into the
block, they may be impossible to
retrieve
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Chapter 3
Cooling, heating, and air conditioning systems
Air conditioning system - general information
and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 12
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system checks (coolant leaks,
hose condition) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors -
testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing
and refilling) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater/air conditioning controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Pollen filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Radiator electric cooling fan(s) - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Water pump - check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Coolant
Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
System pressure
Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds
Expansion tank filler cap
Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars approximately - see cap for actual value
Thermostat
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88°C
Radiator electric cooling fan
Switches on at:
Single-speed fans, two-speed fans - first stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C
Two-speed fans - second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103°C
Switches off at:
Single-speed fans, two-speed fans - first stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93°C
Two-speed fans - second stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance:
At -40°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 860.0 to 900.0 kilohms
At 20°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.0 to 40.0 kilohms
At 100°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms
At 120°C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.3 kilohms
Air conditioning system
Refrigerant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R134a
3•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
3
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Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Radiator mounting bracket-to-subframe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Fluid cooler pipe unions - automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Thermostat housing-to-cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Water outlet-to-thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8
Coolant temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2A
Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ
a pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circu-
lation. A water pump mounted on the drivebelt
end of the cylinder block/crankcase pumps
coolant through the engine. The coolant flows
around each cylinder and toward the
transmission end of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
inlet and exhaust ports, near the spark
plug areas and close to the exhaust valve
guides.
A wax pellet type thermostat is located in a
housing at the transmission end of the engine.
During warm-up, the closed thermostat
prevents coolant from circulating through the
radiator. Instead, it returns through the
coolant metal pipe running across the front of
the engine to the radiator bottom hose and
the water pump. The supply to the heater is
made from the rear of the thermostat housing.
As the engine nears normal operating
temperature, the thermostat opens and allows
hot coolant to travel through the radiator,
where it is cooled before returning to the
engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-
type filler cap in the expansion tank. The
pressure in the system raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and increases the cooling
efficiency of the radiator. When the engine is
at normal operating temperature, the coolant
expands, and the surplus is displaced into the
expansion tank. When the system cools, the
surplus coolant is automatically drawn back
from the tank into the radiator.
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing hasstopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they
have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted surfaces
of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in a puddle in the driveway or
on the garage floor. Children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze
is fatal if ingested.
Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
Heating system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. When the heater temperature
control on the facia is operated, a flap door
opens to expose the heater box to the
passenger compartment. When the blower
control is operated, the blower fan forces air
through the unit according to the setting
selected.
Air conditioning system
See Section 11.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in
contact with your skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is
highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink it.
Check with local authorities about disposing
of used antifreeze - many have collection
centres which will see that antifreeze is
disposed of safely.The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25°C, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point.
The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with
the antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to
use only soft water. Clean rainwater is
suitable.
Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses
and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level goes down, find the cause and
correct it.
The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
which you should use depends on the
relative weather conditions. The mixture
should contain at least 40% antifreeze, but
not more than 70%. Consult the mixture
ratio chart on the antifreeze container
before adding coolant. Hydrometers are
available at most automotive accessory
shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze
which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s
specifications.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows
(see illustration).
2First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
3 Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal
2 Antifreeze - general information
1 General information
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Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle
without a thermostat. The lack of
a thermostat will slow warm-up
time. The engine management system’s
ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for
longer than necessary, causing emissions
and fuel economy to suffer.
9If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that
the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is
open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis”section at
the front of this manual to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.
Thermostat test
10If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
11To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side of the
container.
12Heat the water, and check the
temperature at which the thermostat begins to
open; compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open; the temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end. Remove the thermostat and allow
it to cool down; check that it closes fully.
13If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.
Refitting
14Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Clean the mating surfaces
carefully, renew the thermostat’s sealing ring
if it is worn or damaged, then refit the
thermostat with its air bleed valve uppermost
(see illustration). Tighten the water outlet
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
15Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
16Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Testing
1The radiator cooling fan is controlled by the
engine management system’s ECU, acting on
the information received from the coolant
temperature sensor. Where twin fans or two-
speed fans are fitted, control is through a
resistor assembly, secured to the bottom left-
hand corner of the fan shroud - this can be
renewed separately if faulty.
2First, check the relevant fuses and relays
(see Chapter 12).
3To test the fan motor, unplug the electrical
connector, and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery. If the
fan still does not work, renew the motor.
4If the motor proved sound, the fault lies in
the coolant temperature sensor (see Section 6
for testing details), in the wiring loom (see
Chapter 12 for testing details) or in the engine
management system (see Chapter 6).
Removal and refitting
5Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
6Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8Remove the radiator top hose completely.
Disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat, and unbolt the coolant pipe
from the exhaust manifold heat shield.
9Unplug the cooling fan electrical
connector(s), then release all wiring and hoses
from the fan shroud.
10Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan
shroud, then lift the assembly to disengage it
from its bottom mountings and from the
radiator top edge (see illustrations).
11Withdraw the fan and shroud as an
assembly (see illustration).
12At the time of writing, the fan, motor and
shroud are available only as a complete
assembly, and must be renewed together if
faulty.
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the shroud is settled
correctly at all four mounting points before
refitting and tightening the nuts.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Coolant temperature gauge
sender
Testing
1If the coolant temperature gauge is inopera-
tive, check the fuses first (see Chapter 12).
2If the gauge indicates Hot at any time,
consult the “Fault finding”section at the end
of this manual, to assist in tracing possible
cooling system faults.
3If the gauge indicates Hot shortly after the
engine is started from cold, unplug the
coolant temperature sender’s electrical
connector. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
4If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Unplug the
6 Cooling system electrical
switches and sensors-
testing, removal and refitting
5 Radiator electric cooling
fan(s)- testing,
removal and refitting
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.14 Ensure thermostat is refitted as
shown
5.10A Fan shroud is secured at top by
mounting nut (A), at bottom by clip (B) . . .5.10B . . . and is hooked over radiator top
edge (one point arrowed)5.11 Removing radiator electric cooling
fan and shroud assembly
procarmanuals.com

sender’s electrical connector, and use a
jumper wire to connect the white/red wire to a
clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine.
Switch on the ignition without starting the
engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew
the sender.
5If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chap-
ter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8Disconnect the expansion tank coolant
hose and the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing’s water outlet, then
disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat.
9Unplug the electrical connector from the
sender (see illustration).
10Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sender’s threads.
Screw in the sender and tighten it to the
specified torque wrench setting, and plug in
its electrical connector.
12Reconnect the hoses and refit the
resonator, top-up the cooling system (see
Chapter 1) and run the engine. Check for
leaks and proper gauge operation.
Coolant temperature sensor
Testing
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
14Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
15Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor (see illustration).
16Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If the
sensor’s temperature is varied - by removing
it (see below) and placing it in a freezer for a
while, or by warming it gently - its resistance
should alter accordingly.
17If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18On completion, plug in the connector and
refit the resonator.
Removal
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
20Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember. Slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
21With the engine completely cool, remove
the expansion tank filler cap to release any
pressure, then refit the cap. Provided you
work swiftly and plug the opening as soon as
the sensor is unscrewed, coolant loss will thus
be minimised; this will avoid the draining of
the complete cooling system which would
otherwise be necessary (see Chapter 1).
22Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
23Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it. If the
cooling system has not been drained, plug the
opening as quickly as possible.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
opening in the thermostat housing, then apply
a light coat of sealant to the sensor’s threads.
Remove the material used to plug the sensor
hole (where applicable), and quickly install the
sensor to prevent coolant loss. Tighten the
sensor to the specified torque wrench setting,
and plug in its electrical connector.
25Refit the resonator, top-up the cooling
system (see Chapter 1) and run the engine,
checking for leaks.
Coolant low level switch
Testing
26The switch is a reed-type unit mounted in
the bottom of the cooling system expansion
tank, activated by a magnetic float. If the
coolant level falls to the “MIN” level or less,
the appropriate bulb lights in the warning
display.
27If the bulb fails to light during the 5-
second bulb test, check the bulb, and renew if
necessary as described in Chapter 12.
28To check the switch itself, unplug its
electrical connector, and use an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance across the switchterminals. With the float up, a resistance of
90 ohms should be measured; when it is
down, the resistance should increase to
approximately 150 kilohms.
29If the results obtained from the check are
significantly different from those expected,
the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
30If the switch and bulb are proven to be
sound, the fault must be in the wiring or in the
auxiliary warning control assembly (see
Chapter 12).
Removal
31Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
32Remove the expansion tank (see Sec-
tion 7).
33Unplug the switch electrical connector.
34Release the switch by twisting its retainer
anti-clockwise, then withdraw it.
Refitting
35Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Refill the cooling system (see
Chapter 1). Start the engine, and check for
coolant leaks when it is fully warmed-up.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Radiator
Removal
Note:If leakage is the reason for removing the
radiator, bear in mind that minor leaks can
often be cured using a radiator sealant with
the radiator in situ.
1Remove the radiator fan and shroud
assembly (see Section 5).
2Disconnect the bottom hose from the
radiator.
3If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
disconnect the fluid cooler lines, and plug the
lines and fittings.
4If the vehicle has air conditioning, unscrew
the condenser mounting nuts or bolts, detach
the condenser from the radiator, and tie it to
the engine compartment front crossmember.
7 Radiator and expansion tank -
removal, inspection and refitting
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
6.9 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature gauge sender6.15 Location (arrowed) of coolant
temperature sensor
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Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems
Accelerator cable (models with traction control) -
removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Accelerator cable (models without traction control) -
removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Air cleaner assembly/air intake components - removal and refitting . 4
Air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2A
Exhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 17
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Fuel cut-off switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Fuel injection system/engine management system - check . . . . . . . 15
Fuel injection system/engine management system - general . . . . . 14Fuel lines and fittings - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Fuel pump/fuel pressure - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel system components - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . See Section 14
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2A
Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Roll-over valves - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Underbonnet hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
General
Idle speed:
Regulated - nominal (± 50 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830 to 880 rpm*
Unregulated - base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1500 rpm*
Idle mixture (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available
* Given for reference only - not adjustable.
Rev limiter operation
Fuel injectors shut off at:
Automatic transmission, position “N” selected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4100 rpm
Automatic transmission, any other position selected . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6800 rpm (approximately)
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6800 to 7100 rpm
Fuel pressure
Regulated fuel pressure - engine running at idle speed:
Pressure regulator vacuum hose connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 ± 0.2 bars
Pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 ± 0.2 bars
Note:When the ignition is switched off, the system should hold 1.8 bars for 5 minutes. If the engine is hot, the pressure may rise to maximum of
2.7 bars during this check. Pressure regulator (when reconnected) should prevent any higher pressure being reached.
Fuel injectors
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 15.2 ohms
Idle speed control valve
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 14 ohms
Idle-increase solenoid valve
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 120 ohms
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Plenum chamber-to-inlet manifold fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Throttle housing-to-inlet manifold screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Idle speed control valve bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Fuel pressure regulator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Fuel injector bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Fuel rail-to-inlet manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Fuel feed and return line threaded couplings at fuel rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 17 to 22
All exhaust system nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 45 30 to 33
4•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
4
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