engine coolant FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Owner's Manual

and right-hand mountings. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be
taken by the mountings until all are
correctly aligned.
(d) Fitting the Ford service tool in place of the
front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners
to their specified torque wrench settings,
and in the sequence described in Part B
of this Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49
and 50.
(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(f) Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).
(g) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.
Removal
Note:While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pumppressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
In addition to the new pump gasket and
other replacement parts required, read
through Section 15, and ensure that the
necessary tools and facilities are available.
1Remove the timing belt (see Section 10).
2Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley
and the thrustwasher behind it, noting which
way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see
Section 11).
3Remove the sump (see Section 15).
4Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw
and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.
Inspection
6Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration).
7Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8The oil pressure relief valve can bedismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, apply the handbrake securely and
raise its front end, supporting it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve.
9Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10Reassembly is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.
Refitting
11The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration).
13Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactlyaround the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/
crankcase on each side of the crankshaft
(see illustration). Being careful not to disturb
16 Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•21
2A
16.9B . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief
valve spring and plunger16.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil
pump16.13 Check the oil pump is positioned
correctly
16.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove
oil pump16.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor16.9A Unscrew threaded plug - seen
through right-hand wheel arch . . .
procarmanuals.com

the gasket, move the pump into the correct
position, and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
14Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 20).
16Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).
17The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
1Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Disconnect the coolant hoses from the oil
cooler.
2Unscrew the oil filter (see Chapter 1) -
catch any escaping oil in a drip tray.
3Unscrew the filter adaptor from the oil
pump, and withdraw the oil cooler; note how
its unions are aligned, and be prepared for oil
loss from the cooler.
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:(a) Renew all O-rings and seals disturbed on
removal.
(b) Align the cooler’s unions as noted on
removal, and tighten the adaptor to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(d) Refit the oil filter, then check the engine
oil level, and top-up as necessary (see
Chapter 1).
(e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks once
the engine has been restarted and warmed-
up to normal operating temperature.
1With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
3Undo the two screws, and remove the
sensor’s cover from the front of the sump
(see illustration).
4Unplug the wiring from the sensor (see
illustration). Where necessary, unplug the
electrical connector to disconnect the sensor
wiring, and unclip the connector to release
the wiring from the vehicle.
5Unscrew the sensor, and quickly plug the
sump aperture to minimise oil loss; note the
sensor’s seal.6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; renew the sensor’s seal if it is
worn or damaged, and tighten the sensor to
the specified torque wrench setting. Check
the engine oil level, and top-up as necessary
(see Chapter 1) - check for signs of oil leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating temperature.
1The switch is screwed into the rear of the
cylinder block, above the right-hand
driveshaft’s support bearing (see
illustration).
2With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
3Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Unplug the wiring from the switch, and
unscrew it; be prepared for some oil loss.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; apply a thin smear of suitable
sealant to the switch threads, and tighten it to
the specified torque wrench setting. Check
the engine oil level, and top-up as necessary
(see Chapter 1). Check for signs of oil leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating temperature.
Note:Don’t try to prise these seals out
without removing the oil pump or seal carrier -
the seals are too soft, and the amount of
space available is too small, for this to be
possible without considerable risk of damage
to the seal housing and/or the crankshaft
journal. Follow exactly the procedure given
below.
Right-hand seal
1Remove the oil pump (see Section 16).
2Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration).
20 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
19 Oil pressure warning light
switch - removal and refitting
18 Oil level sensor-
removal and refitting
17 Oil cooler -
removal and refitting
2A•22 In-car engine repair procedures
16.16 Use new gasket when refitting oil
pick-up pipe to pump18.3 Remove screws (arrowed) to remove
oil level sensor cover . . .18.4 . . . disconnecting wiring from sensor
19.1 Oil pressure warning light switch
(arrowed) is screwed into rear of cylinder
block, above right-hand driveshaft support
bearing
20.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil
seal
procarmanuals.com

safely and with relative ease, and which may
have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in
addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty trolley
jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some wooden
blocks, and an engine dolly (a low, wheeled
platform capable of taking the weight of the
engine/transmission, so that it can be moved
easily when on the ground). A complete set of
spanners and sockets (as described in the front
of this manual) will obviously be needed,
together with plenty of rags and cleaning
solvent for mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and
fuel. If the hoist is to be hired, make sure that
you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine shop will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer can’t accomplish without special
equipment. These establishments often have
a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea
to consult them before removing the engine,
to accurately estimate the amount of time
required to rebuild or repair components that
may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and installing the engine/transmission.
Serious injury can result from careless
actions. By planning ahead and taking your
time, the job (although a major task) can be
accomplished successfully.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light
bulbs in or near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding Section,
before beginning this procedure. The engine
and transmission are removed as a unit,
lowered to the ground and removed from
underneath, then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1. For better access
the battery may be removed completely (see
Chapter 5).
4Place protective covers on the wings and
engine compartment front crossmember, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled.
6Unplug the two electrical connectors,disconnect the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover, then remove the
complete air cleaner assembly, with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
7Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings (see illustration).
8Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -
where fitted, also disconnect the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
Secure the cable(s) clear of the
engine/transmission.
9Releasing its wire clip, unplug the power
steering pressure switch electrical connector,
then unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder head
rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see
illustrations).
10Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above), disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
4 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
2B•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.7 Note colour-coding of unions when
disconnecting fuel feed and return lines4.9A Unplug the power steering pressure
switch electrical connector . . .4.9B . . . unbolt the power steering high-
pressure pipe . . .
Whenever any wiring is disconnected, . . . vacuum hoses and pipes should
mark or label it as shown, to ensure be similarly marked
correct reconnection . . .
Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets.
procarmanuals.com

inner wing panel, release the engine
wiring loom and refit the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(g) Secure the engine wiring loom neatly to
the engine/transmission so that it cannot
be damaged as the unit is removed from
the vehicle.
14Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow
the upper part to be withdrawn.
15Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
16Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10); secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
17Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands, then remove the front
roadwheels. Drain the cooling system and (if
the engine is to be dismantled) drain the
engine oil and remove the oil filter (see
Chapter 1). Also drain the transmission as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7.
18Withdraw the lower part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield.
19Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then unhook all the system’s rubber
mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle (see
Chapter 4 for details).
20Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, mark their positions, then
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
transmission support rods from the rear of the
transmission. Unscrew the retaining nuts, and
withdraw the gear linkage heat shield from the
underbody. Unbolt the rear end of the linkage
from the underbody, swivel the linkage around
to the rear, and tie it to the underbody (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
21Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension strut - note the
flexible brake hose bracket attached to each
link stud - and both track rod ends from their
steering knuckles. Unfasten the clamp bolt
securing each front suspension lower arm
balljoint to its steering knuckle (see Chap-
ter 10 for details). Check that both balljoints
can be released from the knuckle assemblies
when required, but leave them in place for thetime being, secured by the clamp bolts if
necessary.
22Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unbolt the accumulator/
dehydrator from the subframe; secure it as far
as possible (without disconnecting the
system’s hoses) clear of the engine/
transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
23Unbolt the steering gear from the
subframe; if the bolts are not accessible from
above, a Ford service tool will be required to
reach them from underneath the vehicle (see
Chapter 10 for details).
24Unscrew the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
25Hold the radiator in its raised position, by
inserting split pins through the holes in the
rear of the engine compartment front
crossmember and into the radiator’s upper
mounting extensions. Unbolt the radiator
mounting brackets from the subframe; note
that they are handed, and are marked to
ensure correct refitting (see illustrations).
Collect and store the bottom mounting
rubbers for safekeeping, noting which way up
they are fitted.
26Unbolt the engine/transmission rear
mounting from the subframe - where the
vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, a
separate damper may be fitted beneath the
subframe, which must be unbolted to reach
the mounting’s fasteners. Where the vehicle is
fitted with manual transmission, also unscrew
the mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting bracket from the transmission.
27Unscrew the engine/transmission front
mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting from the subframe, noting the
location of the wiring connector bracket.
28Use white paint or similar (do not use a
sharp-pointed scriber, which might break the
underbody protective coating and cause
rusting) to mark the exact relationship of the
subframe to the underbody. Unscrew the four
mounting bolts from the subframe (note their
different-sized washers - see also illus-tration 4.47A) and allow the subframe to hang
down on the suspension lower arm balljoints.
Disconnect the balljoints one at a time from
the steering knuckle assemblies (see Chap-
ter 10) and lower the subframe to the ground;
withdraw the subframe from under the
vehicle.
29Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above) and catching as much as possible of
the escaping coolant in the drain tray,
disconnect the cooling system hoses and
pipes as follows - refer to Chapter 3 for further
details, if required:
(a) Remove the radiator top hose.
(b) Remove the (heater) hose running from
the thermostat to the engine
compartment bulkhead union.
(c) Disconnect from the thermostat the hose
running to the expansion tank - secure the
hose clear of the working area.
(d) Disconnect from the thermostat the
coolant hose/pipe which runs to the
radiator bottom hose.
(e) Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the radiator union, from the (sump) heater
coolant pipe and from the water pump
union - secure the hose clear of the
working area.
(f) Unbolt the (heater) coolant pipe from the
sump, trace the pipe/hose round to the
engine compartment bulkhead union,
disconnecting (where fitted) the oil cooler
hoses from the cooler unions, then
remove it.
(g) Unless the vehicle has air conditioning
fitted, secure the radiator as far forwards
as possible while it is in its raised position;
if air conditioning is fitted, remove the
radiator completely (see Chapter 3).
30Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unplug the compressor’s
electrical connector, and unbolt the
compressor from the engine (see
illustration). Secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
2B•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.25A Use split pins as shown to secure
radiator in its raised position . . .
4.25B . . . while you unbolt the bottom
mountings (arrowed) - note that the
mountings are handed, and do not lose the
mounting rubbers
4.30 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to release
air conditioning compressor from engine
procarmanuals.com

31Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the driveshafts from
the transmission as follows, referring to
Chapter 8 for further details when required:
(a) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(b) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(c) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(d) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
32Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Unscrew its centre bolt, then unbolt the
engine/transmission rear mounting
bracket from the transmission.
(b) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
rear of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
(c) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(d) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(e) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(f) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
(g) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
front of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
33The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the right- and left-hand
mountings only, with all components which
connect it to the rest of the vehicle
disconnected or removed and secured well
clear of the unit. Make a final check that this is
the case, then ensure that the body is
securely supported, high enough to permit the
withdrawal of the engine/transmission unit
from underneath; allow for the height of the
engine dolly, if used.
34Take the weight of the engine/
transmission unit, using the lifting eyes
provided on the cylinder head. Unscrew the
six nuts securing the right-hand mounting
bracket, then the three nuts securing the left-
hand bracket. Warning: Do not put any part of
your body under the vehicle, or
under the engine/transmission
unit, when they are supported only by a
hoist or other lifting equipment.
35Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle (see illustration).
36Referring to the relevant part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
37While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
38Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given; where settings are not quoted
in the Specifications Sections of the two Parts
of this Chapter, refer to the Specifications
Section of the relevant Chapter of this manual.
39In addition to the points noted in
paragraph 37 above, always renew any
circlips and self-locking nuts disturbed on
removal.
40Where wiring, etc, was secured by cable
ties which had to be cut on removal, ensure
that it is secured with new ties on refitting.
41With all overhaul operations completed,
refit the transmission to the engine as
described in Chapter 7.
42Manoeuvre the engine/transmission unit
under the vehicle, attach the hoist, and lift the
unit into position until the right- and left-hand
mountings can be reassembled; tighten the
(new) nuts only lightly at this stage. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken by
the mountings until all are correctly aligned.
43Using new circlips, and ensuring that the
inner joints are not twisted through too great
an angle (see Chapter 8), refit the driveshafts.
Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, the procedure is the reverse of
that outlined in paragraph 31 above. Where
the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Refit the left-hand driveshaft.
(b) Using the clips provided to ensure that
they are correctly routed, and tighteningthe couplings to the specified torque
wrench setting where possible, reconnect
the fluid cooler pipes, first to the rear,
then to the front, of the transmission.
(c) Refit the right-hand driveshaft to the
transmission, refit the heat shield, and
tighten the support bearing nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(d) Refit the engine/transmission rear
mounting bracket to the transmission,
tightening the bolts to the torque wrench
setting specified, then refit the mounting,
tightening the centre bolt only lightly at
this stage.
44Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, do not forget to refit the
compressor; tighten the bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting, and plug in its
electrical connector.
45Using the marks and notes made on
removal, refit the cooling system hoses.
Where they are left disconnected or unclipped
for the time being, do not forget to secure
them at the appropriate moment during the
reassembly procedure. Refit the radiator (if
removed), using split pins to secure it in the
raised position.
46Offer up the subframe one side at a time,
and hold it by securing the suspension lower
arm balljoints to the steering knuckle
assemblies. Refit the subframe bolts, ensuring
that the washers are refitted correctly, and
tightening the bolts only lightly at this stage.
47The subframe must now be aligned on the
underbody. Ford specify the use of service
tool 15-097, which is a pair of tapered guides,
with attachments to hold them in the
subframe as it is refitted. However, since the
working diameter of these tools is 20.4 mm,
and since the corresponding aligning holes in
the subframe and underbody are respectively
21 mm and 22 mm in diameter, there is a
significant in-built tolerance possible in the
subframe’s alignment, even if the correct tools
are used. If these tools are not available, you
can align the subframe by eye, centring the
subframe aligning holes on those of the
underbody, and using the marks made on
removal for assistance. Alternatively, you can
align the subframe using a tapered drift (such
as a clutch-aligning tool), or even a deep
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•7
2B
4.35 Lowering the engine/transmission
unit out of the vehicle
procarmanuals.com

socket spanner of suitable size (see
illustrations).
48Once the subframe is aligned as precisely
as possible, tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting without disturbing its
position. Recheck the alignment once all the
bolts are securely tightened.
49With the subframe aligned and securely
fastened, the engine/transmission unit must
now be positioned precisely, before the
mountings can be reassembled. Ford specify
the use of service tool 21-172; this is a fixture
bolted to the subframe in place of the
engine/transmission front mounting, so that
when the mounting’s centre bolt is refitted, it
is held 60 mm above the subframe’s top
surface, and offset 20 mm to the rear of the
mounting’s subframe bolt holes (centres). DIY
mechanics are advised to obtain the Ford
tool; the only alternative is to have a copy
fabricated (see illustration).
50Fasten the tool to the subframe in place of
the engine/transmission front mounting, and
lightly tighten the mounting’s centre bolt. Refit
the engine/transmission mountings in the
following sequence:
(a) Tighten the left-hand mounting’s nuts to
the specified torque wrench setting - do
not allow the mounting to twist as it is
tightened (see illustration).
(b) Tighten the right-hand mounting’s four
bracket-to-engine nuts to the specified
torque wrench setting.(c) Slowly release the hoist so that the weight
of the engine/transmission unit is taken by
the mountings.
(d) Tighten the right-hand mounting’s two
bracket-to-mounting nuts to the specified
torque wrench setting - do not allow the
mounting to twist as it is tightened (see
illustration).
(e) Reassemble the engine/transmission rear
mounting, tightening the fasteners to the
specified torque wrench settings; tighten
the centre bolt last.
(f) Refit the steering gear to the subframe; if
the Ford service tool is used to tighten the
bolts from underneath the vehicle (see
Chapter 10 for details), note that a torque
wrench which can tighten in an anti-
clockwise direction will be required.
(g) Unbolt the special tool from the front
mounting, refit the mounting - do not
forget the wiring connector bracket - and
tighten first the mounting’s bolts/nuts,
then its centre bolt, to their respective
specified torque wrench settings (see
illustrations).
51Refit the bottom mounting rubbers to the
radiator - ensure that both are the correct way
up - then refit the radiator mounting brackets
to the subframe, ensuring that each is
returned to its correct (marked) location, and
tightening the bolts to the torque wrench
setting specified. Remove the split pins, and
secure the coolant hose connections (where
necessary).
52Refit the air conditioning accumulator/
dehydrator (where appropriate) to the
subframe.
53Tighten the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
54Fasten each front suspension lower arm
balljoint and track rod end to their respective
steering knuckles, and both anti-roll bar links
to their respective suspension strut. Note the
flexible brake hose bracket attached to each
link stud (see Chapter 10 for details).
55Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, swivel the linkage around to the
front, tighten its rear fasteners, then refit the
2B•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.47A Tighten subframe mounting
bolts (A) while ensuring that alignment
remains correct - Ford service tools (B)
shown in use here . . .4.47B . . . but alternative methods using
ordinary hand tools can achieve
acceptable alignment, with care4.49 Special tool required to hold
engine/transmission unit precisely, so that
mountings can be tightened into correct
position
4.50B Tighten the right-hand mounting’s
four bracket-to-engine nuts (A), release
the hoist, then tighten the two bracket-to-
mounting nuts (B). Do not allow mounting
to twist
4.50A Do not allow the left-hand mounting
to twist as its nuts (arrowed) are tightened
4.50C Unbolt special tool . . .
4.50D . . . then refit front mounting - do
not forget wiring connector bracket -
tighten the mounting’s nuts first, then its
centre bolt
procarmanuals.com

gear linkage heat shield. Reconnect the
gearchange linkage and transmission support
rods to the transmission, adjusting the linkage
using the marks made on removal (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
56Re-install the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
57Add coolant, engine oil and transmission
fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
58Run the engine, and check for proper
operation and the absence of leaks. Shut off
the engine, and recheck the fluid levels.
59Remember that, since the front suspension
subframe and steering gear have been
disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering
angles must be checked fully and carefully as
soon as possible, with any necessary
adjustments being made. This operation is best
carried out by an experienced mechanic, using
proper checking equipment; the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similarly-
qualified person for attention.
1It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine
stand. These stands can often be hired from a
tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted
on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be
removed (Part A of this Chapter, Section 21)
so that the stand bolts can be tightened into
the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.
2If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it mounted on
blocks, on a sturdy workbench or on the floor.
Be extra-careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
3If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts and other small items.These
external components include the following:
(a) Alternator and brackets (Chapter 5).
(b) HT leads and spark plugs (Chapter 1).
(c) Thermostat and housing (Chapter 3).
(d) Dipstick tube.
(e) Fuel injection system components
(Chapter 4).
(f) All electrical switches and sensors - refer
to the appropriate Chapter.
(g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
(i) Engine/transmission mounting brackets
(Part A of this Chapter, Section 22).
(j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
4If you are obtaining a “short” engine (whichconsists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order.
(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(b) Timing belt, toothed pulleys and
tensioner, and timing belt inner cover
(Part A of this Chapter).
(c) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).
(d) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(e) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(f) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Sec-
tion 16).
(g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 9).
(h) Crankshaft (Section 10).
6Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
manual for further information.
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and
from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the
fact that some specialist tools are required for
the dismantling and inspection procedures,
and new components may not be readily
available (refer to Section 1 of this Part), it may
be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original head.
1Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets (Part A of this Chapter, Section 13),
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described (see illustration).
6 Cylinder head - dismantling
5 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•9
2B
6.1 Cylinder head components
1 Hydraulic tappet
2 Valve collets
3 Valve spring upper seat
4 Valve spring5 Valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seal
6 Oil-retaining valve
7 Engine lifting eye
8 Cylinder head gasket9 Inlet valve
10 Locating dowels
11 Exhaust valve
12 Cylinder head bolt
procarmanuals.com

4Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.
Inspection
Note:Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.
Cylinder head
5Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head gasket surface is
not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be possible to re-surface it.
7Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need
to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a
side-to-side motion of the valve, new guidesmust be fitted. Measure the diameter of the
existing valve stems (see below) and the bore
of the guides, then calculate the clearance,
and compare the result with the specified
value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the
valves or guides as necessary.
9The renewal of valve guides is best carried
out by an engine overhaul specialist.
10If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this
must be done only afterthe guides have been
renewed.
Valves
11Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and
check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
12If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points, using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
13If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
onlyshould be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should notbe used unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the
cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert, is required.
14Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grindingcompound (see illustration). A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off alltraces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder
head.
Valve components
18Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure
their free length by comparing each of the
existing springs with a new component.
19Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness (see illustration). If
any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or
have lost their tension, obtain a complete set
of new springs.
20Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21Check the hydraulic tappets as described
in Part A of this Chapter, Section 13.
1Regardless of whether or not the head was
sent away for repair work of any sort, make
sure that it is clean before beginning
reassembly. Be sure to remove any metal
particles and abrasive grit that may still be
present from operations such as valve
8 Cylinder head - reassembly
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•11
2B
7.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve
stem - if any significant difference is found
in the readings obtained, excessive valve
stem wear is indicated7.15 Grinding-in a valve seat - do not grind
in the valves any more than absolutely
necessary, or their seats will be
prematurely sunk into the cylinder head
7.19 Check each valve spring for
squareness
7.6 Check the cylinder head gasket
surfaces for warpage, in the planes
indicated (A to G). Try to slip a feeler
gauge under the precision straight edge
(see the Specifications for the maximum
distortion allowed, and use a feeler blade
of that thickness)
procarmanuals.com

applicable); note that Ford state that the
piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be
renewed whenever the engine is dismantled
for full overhaul (see illustrations).
2Remove the main bearing caps, and
separate the bearing shells from the caps and
the cylinder block/crankcase. Mark or label
the shells, indicating which bearing they were
removed from, and whether they were in the
cap or the block, then set them aside (see
illustration). Wipe clean the block and cap
bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks,
gouges and scratches.
3Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinderblock/crankcase, taking care not to damage
the sealing surfaces.
4Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped.
Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller (see illustration).
Caution: The core plugs (also
known as freeze or soft plugs)
may be difficult or impossible to
retrieve if they are driven into the
block coolant passages.5If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
6After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
8All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
2B•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
11.1A Remove water pump . . .11.1B . . . crankcase breather pipe and
PCV valve . . .11.1C . . . unbolt crankcase ventilation
system oil separator . . .
11.1F . . . but note that piston-cooling oil
jets (where fitted) must be renewed as a
matter of course whenever engine is
overhauled11.2 Felt marker pens can be used as
shown to identify bearing shells without
damaging them
11.1D . . . remove electrical
switches/sensors such as crankshaft
speed/position sensor . . .11.1E . . . unbolt blanking plugs (where
fitted) to clean out oilways . . .
11.4 The core plugs should be removed
with a puller - if they’re driven into the
block, they may be impossible to
retrieve
procarmanuals.com

each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes in
this way, and be sure to dry out
any excess liquid left in the holes.
9When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase
(see illustration). Make sure they are driven
in straight and seated properly, or leakage
could result. Special tools are available for
this purpose, but a large socket with an
outside diameter that will just slip into the
core plug, used with an extension and
hammer, will work just as well.
10Refit the blanking plugs or (new) piston-
cooling oil jets (as applicable), tightening their
Torx screws to the torque wrench setting
specified (see illustration). Refit also all other
external components removed, referring tothe relevant Chapter of this manual for further
details where required. Refit the main bearing
caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
11If the engine is not going to be
reassembled right away, cover it with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean; protect the
machined surfaces as described above, to
prevent rusting.
Inspection
12Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly (see illustration).
13Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
14Noting that the cylinder bores must be
measured with all the crankshaft main bearing
caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft
and bearing shells), to the specified torque
wrench settings, measure the diameter of
each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge
area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore,
parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure
each cylinder’s diameter at the same three
locations across the crankshaft axis (see
illustrations). Note the measurements
obtained.
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•15
2B
11.12 Cylinder block, piston/connecting
rod and crankshaft details
1 Cylinder block/crankcase
2 Piston
3 Connecting rod
4 Big-end bearing shell
5 Big-end bearing cap
6 Big-end bearing cap bolts
7 Crankshaft
11.14A Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
11.14B The ability to “feel” when the
telescoping gauge is at the correct point will
be developed over time, so work slowly, and
repeat the check until you’re satisfied that
the bore measurement is accurate
11.8 All bolt holes in the block -
particularly the main bearing cap and head
bolt holes - should be cleaned and
restored with a tap (be sure to remove
debris from the holes after this is done)11.9 A large socket on an extension can
be used to drive the new core plugs into
their bores11.10 Do not forget to refit all components
- such as oilway blanking plugs (three of
four arrowed) - tighten fasteners to torque
wrench settings specified
11.14C The gauge is then measured with a
micrometer to determine the bore size
procarmanuals.com