warning FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Manual PDF

15Unscrew the two rearmost canister
assembly retaining bolts (see illustration).
16Unplug the two hoses from the canister
assembly, noting which way round they are
fitted (see illustration).
17Unscrew the canister assembly’s front
retaining bolt (see illustration). Withdraw the
canister assembly.
18Release the clip, and drive out the pin to
separate the canister from its bracket (see
illustration).
19On reassembly, refit the canister to its
bracket and refit the assembly to the vehicle,
tightening the retaining bolts securely, and
ensuring that the two hoses are securely
reconnected to their original unions.
20Offer up the crossmember and refit the
crossmember bolts, tightening them only
lightly at this stage.
21The crossmember must now be aligned
on the underbody. Ford specify the use of
service tool 15-097, which is a pair of tapered
guides, with attachments to hold them in the
crossmember as it is refitted (see
illustration). However, since the working
diameter of these tools is 20.4 mm, and since
the corresponding aligning holes in the
crossmember and underbody are 21 mm and
22 mm in diameter, there is a significant in-
built tolerance possible in the crossmember’s
alignment, even if the correct tools are used. If
these tools are not available, align the
crossmember by eye, centring thecrossmember aligning holes on those of the
underbody, and using the marks made on
removal for assistance. Alternatively, use a
tapered drift such as a clutch-aligning tool, or
a deep socket spanner of suitable size.
22Once the crossmember is aligned as
precisely as possible, tighten its bolts to the
specified torque (see Chapter 10
Specifications) without disturbing its position
(see illustration). Recheck the alignment
once all the bolts are securely tightened.
23The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.
24Remember that, since the rear suspension
crossmember has been disturbed, the wheel
alignment and steering angles must be
checked fully and carefully as soon as
possible, with any necessary adjustments
being made. This operation is best carried out
by an experienced mechanic using proper
checking equipment; the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similar
for attention.
Charcoal canister - Estate models
25Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
26Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support
it securely on axle stands.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the vehicle
when it is supported only by a
jack!27Disconnect the two hoses from the
canister assembly, noting which way round
they are fitted.
28Unscrew the canister assembly retaining
bolt and withdraw the assembly, unclipping it
from the front mounting.
29Remove the plastic cover, and drive out
the pin to separate the canister from its
bracket (see illustration).
30On refitting, secure the canister to its
bracket, and refit the assembly to the vehicle.
Tighten the retaining bolt securely, and ensure
that the two hoses are securely reconnected
to their original unions.
General information
1To reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx)
emissions, some of the exhaust gases are
recirculated through the EGR valve to the inlet
manifold. This has the effect of lowering
combustion temperatures.
2The system consists of the EGR valve, the
EGR exhaust gas pressure differential sensor,
the EGR solenoid valve, the ECU, and various
sensors - see illustration 2.1A. The ECU is
programmed to produce the ideal EGR valve
lift for each operating condition.
Checking
EGR valve
3Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4Detach the vacuum hose from the EGR
valve, and attach a hand vacuum pump in its
place.
5Apply vacuum to the EGR valve. Vacuum
should remain steady, and the engine should
run poorly.
(a) If the vacuum doesn’t remain steady and
the engine doesn’t run poorly, renew the
EGR valve and recheck it.
(b) If the vacuum remains steady but the
engine doesn’t run poorly, remove the
6 Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) system-
general information, checking
and component renewal
Emissions control systems 6•15
6
5.22 . . . ensure aligned crossmember
does not move - Ford tools used here -
while mounting bolts are tightened5.29 Charcoal canister assembly - Estate
models - showing plastic cover (arrowed)
and pin securing canister to mounting
bracket
5.17 . . . and remove front retaining bolt
(arrowed) to release canister assembly -
Saloon and Hatchback models5.18 Release clip and drive out pin to
separate canister from mounting bracket5.21 Refitting rear suspension crossmember
with Ford service tools (arrowed) in place to
align it with underbody . . .
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Since most of the procedures dealt with in
this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle
and working underneath it, a good pair of axle
stands will be needed. A hydraulic trolley jack
is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle,
and it can also be used to support certain
components during removal and refitting
operations.
Warning: Never, under any
circumstances, rely on a jack to
support the vehicle while working
beneath it. When jacking up the vehicle, do
not lift or support it beneath the front or
rear subframes.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake. Remove the wheel
cover from the relevant front wheel, and
loosen (but do not remove) the driveshaft/hub
nut. This nut is very tight.
2Loosen the front wheel nuts, jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front wheel.
3Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
4Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) as
described in Chapter 9.
5Remove the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9, but do not disconnect
the flexible hose from the caliper. Suspend
the caliper from a suitable point under the
wheel arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
6Unscrew and remove the driveshaft/hub
nut. Note that the nut is of special laminated
design, and should only be re-used a
maximum of 5 times. (It is a good idea to file a
small notch on the nut every time it is
removed.) Obtain a new nut if necessary.
7Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open using a large flat-
bladed tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seal during the separation procedure.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut. If necessary, tap the knuckle
downwards with a soft-headed mallet to
separate the two components. Support the
knuckle on an axle stand.
9Pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly
from the driveshaft splines. If it is tight,
connect a universal puller to the hub flange,
and withdraw it from the driveshaft. When the
driveshaft is free, support it on an axle stand,
or suspend it from a suitable point under thewheel arch, making sure that the inner
constant velocity joint is not turned through
more than 18°. (Damage may occur if the joint
is turned through too great an angle.)
Refitting
10Lift the steering knuckle and hub
assembly onto the driveshaft splines, and
support the assembly on an axle stand.
11Locate the assembly on the front
suspension strut. Insert the pinch-bolt with its
head facing forwards. Fit the nut and tighten it
to the specified torque.
12Refit the lower arm balljoint to the knuckle
assembly, and insert the clamp bolt with its
head facing forwards. Refit the nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
13Refit the driveshaft/hub nut, and tighten it
moderately at this stage. Final tightening of
the nut is made with the vehicle lowered to the
ground.
14Refit the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9.
15Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
16Reconnect the track rod end balljoint to
the steering arm, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
17Refit the front wheel, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts
to the specified torque.
18Tighten the driveshaft/hub nut to the
specified torque, and refit the wheel cover.
Inspection
1The front hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied already greased.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
3Grip the front wheel at top and bottom, and
attempt to rock it. If excessive movement is
noted, it may be that the hub bearings are
worn. Do not confuse wear in the driveshaft
outer joint or front suspension lower arm
balljoint with wear in the bearings. Hub
bearing wear will show up as roughness or
vibration when the wheel is spun; it will also
be noticeable as a rumbling or growling noise
when driving.
Renewal
4Remove the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
5The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive outthe hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter (see illustration).
6Part of the inner race will remain on the hub,
and this should be removed using a puller.
7Note that if this procedure is being used to
renew the hub only (ie it is not intended to
renew the bearings), then it is important to
check the condition of the bearing balls and
races, to see if they are fit for re-use. It is
difficult to be sure that no damage has
occurred, especially if makeshift methods
have been used during removal; in practice, it
is probably false economy not to renew the
bearings in any case, having got this far.
8Using circlip pliers, extract the inner and
outer circlips securing the hub bearing in the
steering knuckle (see illustration).
9Press or drive out the bearing, using a
length of metal tubing of diameter slightly less
than the bearing outer race.
10Clean the bearing seating faces in the
steering knuckle.
3 Front hub and bearings -
inspection and renewal
2 Steering knuckle and hub
assembly -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
3.5 Front hub and bearing
1 Hub 4 Stub axle
2 Double-row ball-bearing 5 Steering knuckle
3 Circlips 6 ABS sensor
3.8 Front wheel bearing retaining circlips
(arrowed)
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holding the piston rod with an 8 mm Allen key.
If the adaptor needed to do this is not
available, the nut can be tightened initially
with a ring spanner while the piston rod is
held. Final tightening can then be carried out
using a torque wrench and a conventional
socket (see illustration).
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the front suspension
strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained.
Do not attempt to use makeshift methods.
Uncontrolled release of the spring could
cause damage and personal injury. Use a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the tool manufacturer’s
instructions provided with it. After removing
the coil spring with the compressor still
fitted, place it in a safe, isolated area.
1If the front suspension struts exhibit signs
of wear (leaking fluid, loss of damping
capability, sagging or cracked coil springs)
then they should be dismantled and
overhauled as necessary. The struts
themselves cannot be serviced, and should
be renewed if faulty, but the springs and
related components can be renewed. To
maintain balanced characteristics on both
sides of the vehicle, the components on both
sides should be renewed at the same time.
2With the strut removed from the vehicle, cleanaway all external dirt, then mount it in a vice.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tools
(ensuring that they are fully engaged), and
compress the spring until all tension is relieved
from the upper mounting (see illustration).
4Hold the strut piston with an Allen key, andunscrew the thrust bearing retaining nut with a
ring spanner (see illustration).
5Withdraw the top mounting, thrust bearing,
upper spring seat and spring, followed by the
gaiter and the bump stop (see illustrations).
6If a new spring is to be fitted, the original
5 Front suspension strut -
overhaul
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
5.5A Front suspension strut components
1 Cap
2 Nut
3 Retainer
4 Nut
5 Top mounting
6 Thrust bearing7 Upper spring seat
8 Spring
9 Bump stop
10 Gaiter
11 Lower spring seat12 Strut
13 Steering knuckle
14 Clamp bolt
15 Solenoid valve for models
with adaptive damping
4.24 Final tightening of the front
suspension strut upper mounting nut5.3 Coil spring compressor tools fitted to
the coil spring5.4 Unscrewing the nut from the top of the
strut
5.5B Removing the top mounting from the strut5.5C Removing the gaiter5.5D Removing the bump stop
procarmanuals.com

Note:Removal of the rear hub from the
knuckle damages the bearings, and renders
them unserviceable for future use. The hub
and bearing assembly mustalways be
renewed if it is removed.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2When applicable, remove the ABS sensor
from the knuckle as described in Chapter 9.
3Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
Drum brake models
4Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose, then release the clip and detach the
flexible hose from the strut. Unscrew the
union nut, and detach the rigid brake pipe
from the wheel cylinder. If preferred (to
eliminate any bleeding procedure during
refitting) the rigid brake pipe may remain
attached to the wheel cylinder, provided that
care is taken to prevent damage to both the
rigid and flexible brake pipes.
5Unbolt the backplate from the rear
suspension knuckle (see illustration), and
support it to one side on an axle stand. The
brake shoes and handbrake cable can remain
attached.
Disc brake models
6Unbolt the splash shield from the rear
suspension knuckle.
All models
7Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle, and
move the tie-bar downwards.
8Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side.
9Support the knuckle on an axle stand, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut.
10Prise the top of the knuckle apart carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool, and withdrawthe knuckle downwards from the strut.
Withdraw the knuckle from under the rear
wheel arch.
Refitting
11Locate the knuckle fully on the strut, then
insert the clamp bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
12Refit the front and rear lower arms to the
knuckle, and insert the bolts finger-tight at
this stage.
13Refit the tie-bar to the bottom of the
knuckle, and insert the bolt finger-tight at this
stage.
14Refit the backplate (or splash shield, as
applicable) to the rear suspension knuckle,
and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Drum brake models
15Reconnect the rigid brake pipe to the
wheel cylinder (if disconnected), and tighten
the union nut.
16Attach the flexible hose to the strut, refit
the clip, and remove the hose clamp.
All models
17Fit a new rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
18Where applicable, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
19Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
20With the weight of the vehicle on the
suspension, fully tighten the mounting bolts
for the tie-bar and lower arms.
21Where applicable, bleed the hydraulic
brake circuit as described in Chapter 9.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained. Careful use
of conventional coil spring compressors will
prove satisfactory.
Removal
1In order to remove the rear suspension
strut, the coil spring must be temporarily
compressed. This will enable the piston rod tobe retracted into the strut, and will provide
additional room for releasing the strut from
the bump stop on top of the rear suspension
crossmember.
Warning: It is important to only
use a high-quality spring
compressor; carefully follow the
tool manufacturer’s instructions
provided with it.
2Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
3Where fitted, unclip the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut, and remove the sensor from
the knuckle as described in Chapter 9 (see
illustration).
4On models fitted with adaptive damping,
unclip the wiring from the strut and
disconnect the multi-plug (see illustration).
5On drum brake models, fit a brake hose
clamp to the rear flexible brake hose, then
unscrew the union nut securing the rigid brake
pipe to the flexible hose on the strut. Extract
the clip, and disconnect the flexible hose from
the strut.
6On models fitted with rear disc brakes,
unbolt the caliper from the knuckle as
described in Chapter 9, but leave the
hydraulic hose attached. Support the caliper
on an axle stand, making sure that the flexible
hose is not strained.
7Unscrew the nut securing the rear anti-roll
bar link to the front lower arm on the
appropriate side. Hold the actual link with an
adjustable spanner or grips while unscrewing
the nut, to prevent damage to the link joint.
8Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle. Move the
tie-bar downwards (see illustrations).
9Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side (see illustrations).
10Support the knuckle on a trolley jack, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut (see illustrations).
11Prise the clamp on the knuckle apart
using a large flat-bladed tool. Disconnect the
knuckle from the strut, and lower it on the
trolley jack as far as possible, taking care not
to damage the handbrake cable (see
illustration).
11 Rear suspension strut
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
10 Rear suspension knuckle
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
removal and refitting
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
10.5 Two of the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the rear suspension knuckle11.3 Unclipping the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut11.4 Location of the adaptive damping
lead (1) and multi-plug (2)
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actual links stationary while the nuts are being
unscrewed, to prevent damage to the joints.
Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards, and recover
the rubber bushes.
5Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel
sensor from the rear suspension knuckle as
described in Chapter 9.
6Unscrew and remove the bolts, and
disconnect both lower arms from the rear
suspension knuckle.
7To allow the rear suspension struts to be
released from the rubber stops on the top of
the crossmember, it is necessary to fit coil
spring compressor tools to both of the rear
coil springs, and compress them until all
tension is removed from the upper and lower
mountings.
Warning: It is important to only
use high-quality spring
compressors, and to carefully
follow the tool manufacturer’s
instructions provided with them. With the
compressor tools fitted, support the struts
to one side.
8Support the rear suspension crossmember
on a trolley jack, then unscrew the four
mounting bolts from the underbody (see
illustration).
9Lower the crossmember to the ground.
10Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll
bar clamps to the crossmember, then remove
the clamps and withdraw the anti-roll bar.
11Remove the lower arms from the
crossmember as described in Section 14.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ford specify the use of a special
tool (tool number 15-097) to accurately align
the crossmember onto the underbody before
tightening the mounting bolts. This tool
should be obtained if possible, since
inaccurate alignment would result in bad
handling and excessive tyre wear. The tie-bar
and arm mounting bolts should be finger-
tightened initially, and only fully tightened
after the vehicle is lowered to the ground, so
that its weight is on the rear suspension. The
rear toe setting should be checked, and if
necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity.
Inspection
1The rear hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied complete with the hub. It is
not possible to renew the bearings separately
from the hub.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,
chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Fully release the handbrake.
3Grip the rear wheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, it is
indicative that the hub bearings are worn.
Renewal
4Remove the rear wheel.
5On drum brake models, remove the rear
brake drum as described in Chapter 9.
6On disc brake models, remove the rear
brake disc as described in Chapter 9.
7Turning the hub as necessary, line up the
hole in the flange with the each of the bolts
securing the hub assembly to the rear
suspension knuckle; unscrew and remove the
bolts (see illustration).
8Withdraw the hub and bearing assembly.
Refit two of the hub mounting bolts, to hold
the backplate/splash shield in place.
9If necessary, the stub shaft may be
removed from the hub for inspection of the
bearing, by unscrewing the hub nut. Note that
the hub nut is of special laminated design,
and may only be re-used a maximum of five
times. (It is a good idea to file a small notch on
the nut every time it is removed; obtain a new
nut if necessary.) Tighten the nut on
reassembly.
10Fit the new hub and bearing assembly
using a reversal of the removal procedure.
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel,
and release the handbrake.
2Position a trolley jack or axle stand beneath
the rear suspension lower arm, to keep the
coil spring in compression.
3Where applicable, remove the ABS sensor
as described in Chapter 9.
Drum brake models
4Remove the rear brake drum as described
in Chapter 9.
5Disconnect the flexible hydraulic brake
hose at the bracket on the rear suspension
crossmember as described in Chapter 9.
Disc brake models
6Remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
All models
7Remove the rear hub as described in
Section 17.
8Remove the backplate or splash shield, as
applicable. On drum brake models, support
the backplate assembly on an axle stand, to
prevent damage to the handbrake cable.
9Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the tie-bar to the knuckle.
11Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the front lower arm to the knuckle.
12Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the upper arm to the knuckle.
13Support the knuckle, then unscrew and
remove the bolt securing the rear lower arm to
the knuckle, and withdraw the knuckle.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but delay fully tightening the
rubber bush mounting bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is on the suspension. Tighten all
bolts to the specified torque. Where the
flexible rear brake hose was disconnected,
bleed the hydraulic system as described in
Chapter 9. Finally check, and if necessary
adjust, the rear wheel toe setting as described
in Section 36.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
19 Rear shock absorber
(Estate models) -
removal, testing and refitting
18 Rear suspension knuckle
(Estate models) -
removal and refitting
17 Rear hub and bearings
(Estate models) -
inspection and renewal
10•14 Suspension and steering systems
16.8 One of the rear suspension
crossmember mounting bolts
17.7 Mounting bolts (arrowed) for the rear
hub on Estate models
procarmanuals.com

2Using a trolley jack, support the rear lower
arm beneath the coil spring position.
3Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear shock absorber to the knuckle.
4Where applicable, release the ABS wheel
sensor lead from the tie-bar.
5Detach the handbrake cable from the tie-
bar bracket.
6Refer to Chapter 9, and disconnect the
handbrake cable from the rear brake shoes or
rear caliper, as applicable. Pass the cable
through the hole in the tie-bar.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the tie-bar to the knuckle (see
illustration).
8Unbolt the tie-bar bracket from the
underbody, and withdraw the assembly from
under the vehicle (see illustrations).
9Mount the tie-bar in a vice, then unscrew
the bolt, and separate the tie-bar from its
bracket.
10It is not possible to renew the rubber bush
in the tie-bar, and if it is excessively worn, the
complete tie-bar must be renewed.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but delay fully tightening the bolt
which secures the arm to the bracket until the
weight of the vehicle is on the rear
suspension. On completion, check the
operation of the handbrake.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axles
stands. Remove both rear wheels. Make sure
that the vehicle is supported high enough for
the crossmember to be removed.
2Disconnect the handbrake rear cables from
the front primary cable, as described in
Chapter 9.
3Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel
sensors from the rear knuckles, and
disconnect the wiring leads from the clips as
described in Chapter 9.
4Disconnect the flexible brake hoses from
the brackets on both sides of the
crossmember, as described in Chapter 9.
5Working on each side of the vehicle, unbolt
the tie-bar brackets from the underbody.
6Support the rear suspension crossmember
on a trolley jack.
7Unscrew the mounting bolts, and lower the
crossmember to the ground (see
illustrations).
8If necessary, remove the suspension
components from the crossmember as
described in the appropriate Sections of this
Chapter.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) When raising the crossmember, note that
guide pins are provided to ensure correct
alignment (see illustration).
(b) Delay fully tightening the suspension
mounting bolts until the weight of the
vehicle is on the rear suspension.
(c) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
(d) Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Chapter 9.
(e) Check, and if necessary adjust, the rear
wheel toe setting as described in Section 36.
Warning: All models are equipped
with an air bag system. Make
sure that the safety
recommendations given in Chapter 12 are
followed, to prevent personal injury.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding, wait
a minimum of 15 minutes, as a
precaution against accidental
firing of the air bag unit. This
period ensures that any stored energy in
the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
27 Steering wheel -
removal and refitting
26 Rear suspension
crossmember (Estate
models) - removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•17
10
26.7A Rear suspension crossmember rear
mounting bolt26.7B Rear suspension crossmember
front mounting bolt26.9 Guide pin (arrowed) for correct
alignment of the rear crossmember
25.7 Bolts (arrowed) securing the rear
suspension tie-bar to the knuckle25.8A Tie-bar bracket front bolt (arrowed)
on the underbody25.8B Tie-bar bracket rear bolt (arrowed)
on the underbody
procarmanuals.com

2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
3Unscrew the screws, and remove the
steering column upper and lower shrouds.
4From the rear of the steering wheel,
unscrew the air bag module mounting screws.
5Carefully lift the module from the steering
wheel, and disconnect the air bag multi-plug
and horn wiring connections.
Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards as
a precaution against accidental
operation.
6Make sure that the steering lock is not
engaged. Unscrew the retaining bolt from the
centre of the steering wheel (see illustration).
7Remove the steering wheel from the top ofthe column, while feeding the horn and air bag
wiring through the hole in the steering wheel
hub (see illustration).
Refitting
8Make sure that the front wheels are still
facing straight-ahead, then locate the steering
wheel on the top of the steering column.
9Refit the retaining bolt, and tighten it to the
specified torque while holding the steering
wheel (see illustration). Do not tighten the
bolt with the steering lock engaged, as this
may damage the lock.
10Reconnect the horn wiring connections
and air bag multi-plug.
11Locate the air bag module/horn contact
on the steering wheel, then insert the
mounting screws and tighten them.12Refit the steering column upper and lower
shrouds. Insert and tighten the screws.
13Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Warning: All models are equipped
with an air bag system. Make
sure that the safety
recommendations given in
Chapter 12 are followed, to prevent
personal injury.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding, wait
a minimum of 15 minutes, as a
precaution against accidental
firing of the air bag unit. This
period ensures that any stored energy in
the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
3Remove the ignition key, then turn the
steering wheel slightly as necessary until the
steering lock engages.
4Unscrew the screws, and remove the
steering column lower and upper shrouds. As
the lower shroud is being removed, it will be
necessary to remove the rubber ring from the
ignition switch/steering lock (see
illustrations).
28 Steering column - removal,
inspection and refitting
10•18 Suspension and steering systems
27.6 Removing the steering wheel
retaining bolt27.7 Feeding the horn and air bag wiring
through the hole in the steering wheel hub27.9 Tightening the steering wheel
retaining bolt
28.4C . . . and remove the lower shroud28.4D Upper shroud retaining screws
(arrowed)
28.4A Unscrew the screws from the lower
shroud . . .28.4B . . . remove the rubber ring . . .
28.4E Removing the upper shroud
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Warning: Be careful when
handling the seat belt tensioning
device (“grabber”). It contains a
powerful spring, which could
cause injury if released in an uncontrolled
fashion. Once fired, the grabber cannot be
reset, and must be renewed. Note also
that seat belts and associated
components which have been subject to
impact loads must be renewed.
Removal
Front seat belt
1Remove the trim from the “B” pillar and the
scuttle.
2Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the seat belt reel unit (see illustration).
3Unscrew the bolt securing the seat belt
guide to the “B” pillar, then unscrew the nut
securing the seat belt shackle (see
illustrations).
4Detach the stalk cable, then undo the
mounting nut, and remove the stalk and
grabber assembly from the front seat (see
illustrations).
Warning: There is a potential risk
of the grabber firing during
removal, so it should be handled
carefully. As an extra precaution,a spacer may be fitted on the cable before
removal. Hold the adjustment lever in the
“adjust” position while inserting the
spacer.
5Remove the recline adjustment knob and
trim from the outer side of the front seat, then
unscrew the bolt and remove the seat belt
end from the seat (see illustrations).
Rear side seat belt
6Unscrew the screws and remove the trim
from the “C” pillar. It will be necessary to
detach the rear seat release cable, and
remove the plastic cover from the rear seat
lock (see illustrations).
7Fold the rear seat cushions forward.
Unscrew the mounting bolts from the seat belt
shackle and reel (see illustrations).
28 Seat belts -
removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•19
11
28.5B . . . unscrew the trim retaining
screws . . .28.5C . . . and unscrew the seat belt end
retaining bolt28.6A Detach the rear seat release cable
28.4A Front seat belt stalk cable
28.4B Front seat stalk mounting nut28.5A Remove the recline adjustment
knob . . .
28.2 Front seat belt reel unit lower
mounting bolt28.3A Front seat belt guide and mounting
bolt28.3B Front seat belt shackle and
mounting nut
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Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the windscreen wiper arms
(Chapter 12), then remove the cowl from just
in front of the windscreen. The cowl is in two
sections, with retaining screws located along
its front edge. With the cowl removed,
disconnect the speedometer cable by pulling
it from the intermediate inner cable extension.
3Remove the centre console (Section 30),
then unscrew the screws and remove the
heater side covers (see illustrations).
4Remove the steering column (Chapter 10).
5Remove the instrument panel (Chapter 12).
6Where fitted, unscrew the screws and
remove the automatic warning system
display.
7Remove the radio and (if fitted) the CD
player (Chapter 12).
8Remove the heater control panel (Chap-
ter 3).
9Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the
headlight switch panel, and disconnect the
wiring multi-plugs.
10Remove the glovebox (Section 32).
11Remove the small piece of carpet from
under the passenger side of the facia.
12Remove the side trim panels from the “A”and “B” pillars on each side of the vehicle
(Section 29). The upper panels on the “B”
pillars can be left in position.
13At the base of the right-hand “A” pillar,
disconnect the wiring multi-plugs, earth leads
and aerial, noting their fitted positions.
14Identify the position of the wiring multi-
plugs on the fusebox, then disconnect them.
15Disconnect the wiring from the footwell
lights, where fitted.
16Prise out the speedometer cable rubber
grommet at the bulkhead near the pedal
bracket, then release the cable from the clips.
17Remove the screws and withdraw the
glovebox side trim, for access to the side
facia mounting screw.
18Open the front doors. Prise off the trim
covers, then pull away the door weatherstrip
by the side mounting bolt positions on each
side (see illustrations).
19Unscrew the facia side mounting bolts.
20Unscrew the facia centre mounting bolts
(see illustrations).
21Withdraw the facia from the bulkhead, far
enough to be able to reach in behind it.
22Disconnect the remaining multi-plugs and
connections, noting their locations on the
various components for correct refitting. It will
also be necessary to release some wiring
loom holders, clips and plastic ties, and the
fresh air vent hoses (see illustration).
23Withdraw the facia from one side of the
vehicle.
33 Facia - removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•23
11
33.20B Facia mounting bolt next to the
glovebox33.20C Facia centre mounting bolt next to
the heater panel33.20D Facia mounting bolt near the
heater
33.3A Unscrew the screws . . .33.3B . . . and remove the heater side
covers33.18A Prise off the covers . . .
33.18B . . . and pull away the weatherstrip
to reveal the facia mounting bolts
33.20A Facia mounting bolt positions (left-
hand-drive shown, right-hand-drive
similar)
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Chapter 12 Body electrical system
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Anti-theft alarm system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Auxiliary warning system - general information and
component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery - check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses, relays and timer module - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8
Headlight levelling motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Radio/cassette player - coding, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radio/cassette player power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
TCS inhibition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Trip computer module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade
check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Fuses (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse No Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
1 80 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power supply to main fusebox
2 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fans
3 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel engine glow plugs and/or ABS braking system
4 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition system, or ignition and daytime running lights
5 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (left-hand side)
6 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (right-hand side)
7 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS braking system
8 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning compressor/heated seats or air conditioning
compressor/daytime running lights
9 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU (petrol), Cold start solenoid (Diesel)
10 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
11 3 Violet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU memory
12 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn and hazard flasher warning system
13 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor
14 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
15 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (right-hand side)
16 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (left-hand side)
17 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (right-hand side)
18 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (left-hand side)
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
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