warning FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Service Manual

into the inlet ports, just above the inlet valves,
by four fuel injectors. The system also
includes features such as the flushing of fresh
(ie, cold) fuel around each injector on start-up,
thus improving hot starts.
The amount of fuel supplied by the injectors
is precisely controlled by an Electronic
Control Unit (ECU). The ECU uses the signals
derived from the engine speed/crankshaft
position sensor and the camshaft position
sensor, to trigger each injector separately in
cylinder firing order (sequential injection), with
benefits in terms of better fuel economy and
lower exhaust emissions.
Air induction system
The air system consists of an air filter
housing, an air mass meter, an intake
resonator and plenum chamber, and a throttle
housing. The air mass meter is an information-
gathering device for the ECU; it uses a “hot-
wire” system to send the ECU a constantly-
varying (analogue) voltage signal
corresponding to the volume of air passing
into the engine. Another sensor in the air mass
meter measures intake air temperature. The
ECU uses these signals to calculate the mass
of air entering the engine.
The throttle valve inside the throttle housing
is controlled by the driver, through the
accelerator pedal. As the valve opens, the
amount of air that can pass through the
system increases. The throttle potentiometer
opens further, the air mass meter’s signal
alters, and the ECU opens each injector for a
longer duration, to increase the amount of fuel
delivered to the inlet ports.
Electronic control system
The ECU controls the fuel injection system,
as well as the other sub-systems which make
up the entire engine management system. It
receives signals from a number of information
sensors, which monitor such variables as
intake air mass and temperature, coolant
temperature, engine speed and position,
acceleration/deceleration, and exhaust gas
oxygen content. These signals help the ECU
determine the injection duration necessary for
the optimum air/fuel ratio. These sensors and
associated ECU-controlled relays are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
control of the engine management system,
see Chapter 6.
Idle speed and mixture
adjustment - general
Both the idle speed and mixture are under
the control of the ECU, and cannot be
adjusted. Not only can they not be adjusted,
they cannot even be checked, except with the
use of special diagnostic equipment (see
Chapter 6) - this makes it a task for a Ford
dealer service department. Do notattempt to
“adjust” these settings in any way without
such equipment.
If the idle speed and mixture are thought tobe incorrect, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer
for the complete system to be tested.
On models equipped with a heated
windscreen, an idle-increase solenoid valve is
fitted, which raises the idle speed to
compensate for the increased load on the
engine when the heated windscreen is
switched on. When the valve is open, air from
the plenum chamber bypasses the throttle
housing and idle speed control valve, passing
directly into the inlet manifold through the
union on its left-hand end. The system is
active only for the four minutes that the
heated windscreen circuit is live, and is
supplementary to the main (ECU-controlled)
idle speed regulation.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance
with a pilot light is present. While
performing any work on the fuel system,
wear safety glasses, and have a dry
chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
Note: This is an initial check of the fuel delivery
and air induction sub-systems of the engine
management system, to be carried out in
conjunction with the operational check of the
fuel pump (see Section 8), and as part of the
preliminary checks of the complete engine
management system (see Section 3 of
Chapter 6).
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor earths
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully-
charged. The ECU and sensors depend on an
accurate supply voltage to properly meter the
fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially-blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a short-
circuited wire in the harness related to the
system (see Chapter 6).
5Check the air intake duct from the intake to
the inlet manifold for leaks, which will result in
an excessively-lean mixture. Also check the
condition of the vacuum hoses connected to
the inlet manifold.
6Remove the plenum chamber from the
throttle housing. Check the throttle valve for
dirt, carbon or other residue build-up. If it’sdirty, seek the advice of a Ford dealer - since
the electronic control system is designed to
compensate for factors such as the build-up
of dirt in the throttle housing, it may well be
best to leave it dirty, unless the deposits are
extensive. Note: A warning label on the
housing states specifically that the housing
bore and the throttle valve have a special
coating, and must not be cleaned using
carburettor cleaner, as this may damage it.
7With the engine running, place a
screwdriver or a stethoscope against each
injector, one at a time. Listen through the
screwdriver handle or stethoscope for a
clicking sound, indicating operation.
8If an injector isn’t operating (or sounds
different from the others), turn off the engine,
and unplug the electrical connector from the
injector. Check the resistance across the
terminals of the injector, and compare your
reading with the resistance value listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If the resistance
isn’t as specified, renew the injector.
9A rough idle, diminished performance
and/or increased fuel consumption could also
be caused by clogged or fouled fuel injectors.
Fuel additives that can sometimes clean
fouled injectors are available at car accessory
shops.
10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a dealer service department
or other qualified repair specialist, as there is
a chance that the ECU may be damaged if
tests are not performed properly.
Warning: The fuel system
pressure must be released before
any part of the system is
disturbed - see Section 2. Petrol
is extremely flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on any part of
the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow
open flames or bare light bulbs, near the
work area. Don’t work in a garage where a
natural gas-type appliance (such as a
water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot
light is present. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a Class B type fire extinguisher
on hand.
Throttle housing
Check
1Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4), and verify that the throttle linkage
operates smoothly.
2If the housing bore and valve are dirty
enough for you to think that this might be the
cause of a fault, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer. Do notclean the housing (see the
notes in the checking procedure given in
Section 15).
16 Fuel system components-
check and renewal
15 Fuel injection system/engine
management system - check
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
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Renewal
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4).
5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
6Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator). Similarly release and unplug the
throttle potentiometer’s electrical connector.
7Clearly label, then detach, all vacuum hoses
from the throttle housing.
8Remove the throttle housing mounting
screws (see illustration), then detach the
throttle housing and gasket from the inlet
manifold. Discard the gasket - this must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
9Using a soft brush and carburettor cleaner,
thoroughly clean the exterior of the throttle
housing, then blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Caution: Do not clean the throttle
housing’s bore, the throttle valve,
or the potentiometer, either by
scraping or with a solvent. Just
wipe them over carefully with a clean soft
cloth.
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Fit a new gasket, and tighten the
housing screws to the specified torque.
Fuel rail and injectors
Check
11Refer to the procedure in the fuel system
check (see Section 15).
Renewal
Note:For simplicity, and to ensure the
necessary absolute cleanliness on
reassembly, the following procedure
describes the removal of the fuel rail
assembly, complete with the injectors and
pressure regulator, so that the injectors can be
serviced individually on a clean work surface.
It is also possible to remove and refit an
individual injector once the fuel system has
been depressurised and the battery has been
disconnected. If this approach is followed,
read through the complete procedure, and
work as described in the relevant paragraphs,
depending on the amount of preliminary
dismantling required. Be careful not to allow
any dirt to enter the system (see
illustrations).
12Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
14Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
15If the additional clearance is required,
disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
16Releasing the wire clips, unplug the four
fuel injector electrical connectors.
17Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the quick-release couplings next to the
braking system vacuum servo unit, then
unclip the fuel hoses from the inlet manifold;
use rag to soak up any spilt fuel. Note:Do not
disturb the threaded couplings at the fuel rail
unions unless absolutely necessary; these aresealed at the factory. The quick-release
couplings will suffice for all normal service
operations.
18Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union, and the
vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator
(see illustration).
19Unscrew the three bolts securing the fuel
rail, and withdraw the rail, carefully prising it
out of the inlet manifold, and draining any
remaining fuel into a suitable clean container
(see illustrations). Note the seals between
the rail noses and the manifold; these must be
renewed whenever the rail is removed.
20Clamping the rail carefully in a vice fitted
with soft jaws, unscrew the two bolts securing
each injector, and withdraw the injectors.
Place each in a clean, clearly-labelled storage
container.
21If you are renewing the injector(s), discard
the old injector, the nose seal and the O-rings.
If you are simply renewing leaking injector O-
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
16.8 Undo screws (arrowed) to remove
throttle housing16.12A Fuel injectors can be unbolted
(arrowed) . . .16.12B . . . and removed individually if
required, but it is better to remove them
with the fuel rail, if servicing is necessary.
O-ring seals (arrowed) must be renewed
whenever injector is removed
16.18 Injector removal - disconnect fuel
lines at quick-release couplings (A), unclip
hoses (B), disconnect vacuum hose from
regulator (C), unplug electrical
connectors (D) - three of four shown - and
disconnect breather hose from union (E)
16.19A Unscrew bolts (arrowed) . . .
16.19B . . . and withdraw fuel rail with
injectors and pressure regulator - renew
nose seals (arrowed) whenever rail is
disturbed
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rings, and intend to re-use the same injectors,
remove the old nose seal and O-rings, and
discard them.
22Further testing of the injector(s) is beyond
the scope of the home mechanic. If you are in
doubt as to the status of any injector(s), it can
be tested at a dealer service department.
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Lubricate each nose seal and O-ring with
clean engine oil on installation.
(b) Locate each injector carefully in the fuel
rail recess, ensuring that the locating tab
on the injector head fits into the slot
provided in the rail. Tighten the bolts to
the specified torque.
(c) Fit a new seal to each fuel rail nose, and
ensure the seals are not displaced as the
rail is refitted. Ensure that the fuel rail is
settled fully in the manifold before
tightening the three bolts evenly and to
the torque wrench setting specified.
(d) Fasten the fuel feed and return quick-
release couplings as described in Sec-
tion 3.
(e) Ensure that the breather hose, vacuum
hose and wiring are routed correctly, and
secured on reconnection by any clips or
ties provided.
(f) On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times, to activate the fuel pump and
pressurise the system, without cranking
the engine. Check for signs of fuel leaks
around all disturbed unions and joints
before attempting to start the engine.
Fuel pressure regulator
Check
24Refer to the fuel pump/fuel pressure
check procedure (see Section 8).
Renewal
25Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the engine
to run - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.26Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
27Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
28Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
regulator.
29Unscrew the two regulator retaining bolts,
place a wad of clean rag to soak up any spilt
fuel, and withdraw the regulator (see
illustration).
30Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Renew the regulator sealing O-ring
whenever the regulator is disturbed.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean
engine oil on installation.
(b) Locate the regulator carefully in the fuel
rail recess, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(c) On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times, to activate the fuel pump and
pressurise the system, without cranking
the engine. Check for signs of fuel leaks
around all disturbed unions and joints
before attempting to start the engine.
Idle speed control valve
Check
31Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
32Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it securely on axle stands.
Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!
33Unplug the valve’s electrical connector
(see illustration).
34Connect a 12-volt battery across the
valve’s terminals - positive (+) to terminal 37
(the green/yellow wire) and negative (-) to
terminal 21 (the black/yellow).
Caution: It is essential that the
correct polarity is observed, or
the diode incorporated in the
valve may be damaged.
35A distinct click should be heard each time
contact is made and broken. If not, measure
the resistance between the terminals. If the
resistance is as specified, the valve is okay
(but there may be a problem with the wiring or
the ECU). If the resistance is not as specified,
renew the valve (see below).36Plug in the valve’s electrical connector.
Renewal
37Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
38Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it securely on axle stands.
Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!
39Unplug the valve’s electrical connector.
40Unscrew the two retaining bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the inlet manifold
(see illustration).
41Since the valve’s individual components
are not available separately, and the complete
assembly must be renewed if it is thought to
be faulty, there is nothing to be lost by
attempting to flush out the passages, using
carburettor cleaner or similar solvent. This
won’t take much time or effort, and may well
cure the fault.
42Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
(a) Clean the mating surfaces carefully, and
always fit a new gasket whenever the
valve is disturbed.
(b) Tighten the bolts evenly and to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(c) Once the wiring and battery are
reconnected, start the engine and allow it
to idle. When it has reached normal
operating temperature, check that the idle
speed is stable, and that no induction (air)
leaks are evident. Switch on all electrical
loads (headlights, heated rear window,
etc), and check that the idle speed is still
correct.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11
4
16.43 Location of idle-increase solenoid
valve (A) and diode (B)
16.29 Disconnect vacuum hose, and
unscrew bolts (arrowed) to withdraw fuel
pressure regulator16.33 Access to idle speed control valve is
from underneath vehicle - unplug electrical
connector (arrowed) to check valve16.40 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove
idle speed control valve
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Idle-increase solenoid valve
Check
43If this valve is thought to be faulty, unplug
its electrical connector and disconnect its
vacuum hoses, then connect a battery directly
across the valve’s terminals. Check that air
can flow through the valve’s passages when
the solenoid is energised, and that nothing
can pass when the solenoid is not energised.
Alternatively, connect an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance between the valve’s
terminals, and compare this reading to that
listed in the Specifications Section at the
beginning of this Chapter. Renew the valve if
it is faulty (see illustration).
44The solenoid’s diode is fitted to control
any voltage “spikes” which might occur as the
solenoid is switched off. A faulty diode would
not, therefore, necessarily interfere with the
operation of the valve. If the diode is thought
to be faulty, however, it can be checked by
unplugging it and connecting an ohmmeter
across its terminals, to check that continuity
exists in one direction only. If continuity is
found in both directions, or in neither, the
diode is faulty, and must be renewed.
Renewal
45If better access is required, remove the
plenum chamber (see Section 4).
46Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
46Unplug the valve’s electrical connector.
Unclip the valve from the bulkhead, then
disconnect its vacuum hoses and withdraw it.
47Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Warning: Inspection and repair of
exhaust system components
should be done only after enough
time has elapsed after driving the vehicle
to allow the system components to cool
completely. This applies particularly to the
catalytic converter, which runs at very
high temperatures. Also, when working
under the vehicle, make sure it is securely
supported on axle stands.
1The exhaust system is composed of an
exhaust manifold, the front downpipe and
catalytic converter, and a rear section
incorporating two silencers (three on some
versions) and the tailpipe assembly. The
service replacement exhaust system consists
of three or four sections: the front
downpipe/catalytic converter, the
intermediate pipe and front silencer, and the
tailpipe and rear silencer. On some versions,
the tailpipe is in two pieces, with two rear
silencers. The system is suspended
throughout its entire length by rubber
mountings.
2If any of these parts are damaged ordeteriorated, excessive noise and vibration
will occur.
3Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust
system, to keep it safe and quiet. Look for any
damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes,
loose connections, excessive corrosion, or
other defects which could allow exhaust
fumes to enter the vehicle. Deteriorated
exhaust system components should not be
repaired - they should be replaced with new
parts.
4If the exhaust system components are
extremely corroded or rusted together, they
will probably have to be cut from the exhaust
system. The most convenient way of
accomplishing this is to have a quick-fit
exhaust repair specialist remove the corroded
sections. If, however, you want to save money
by doing it yourself (and you don’t have an
oxy/acetylene welding outfit with a cutting
torch), simply cut off the old components with
a hacksaw. If you have compressed air,
special pneumatic cutting chisels can also be
used. If you do decide to tackle the job at
home, be sure to wear eye protection, to
protect your eyes from metal chips, and work
gloves, to protect your hands. If the
production-fit system is still fitted, it must be
cut at the points shown (see illustrations) for
the service-replacement system sections to fit.
5Here are some simple guidelines to apply
when repairing the exhaust system:
Warning: The catalytic converter
operates at very high
temperatures, and takes a long
time to cool. Wait until it’s completely cool
before attempting to remove the
converter. Failure to do so could result in
serious burns.
(a) Work from the back to the front when
removing exhaust system components.
(b) Apply penetrating fluid to the exhaustsystem component fasteners, to make
them easier to remove.
(c) Use new gaskets, rubber mountings and
clamps when installing exhaust system
components.
(d) Apply anti-seize compound to the threads
of all exhaust system fasteners during
reassembly.
(e) Note that the downpipe is secured to the
manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring,
spring seat and self-locking nut on each.
On refitting, tighten the nuts until they
stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure
of the springs will then suffice to make a
leakproof joint (see illustration). Do not
overtighten the nuts to cure a leak - the
bolts will shear. Renew the gasket and the
springs if a leak is found (also see Chap-
ter 2, Part A).
(f) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance
between newly-installed parts and all points
on the underbody, to avoid overheating the
floorpan, and possibly damaging the
interior carpet and insulation. Pay
particularly close attention to the catalytic
converter and its heat shield.
17 Exhaust system -
general information and
component renewal
4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems
17.4A Cutting point for renewal of production-fit exhaust system - 1.6 and 1.8 models
17.4B Cutting points for renewal of production-fit exhaust system - 2.0 models
17.5 Tighten exhaust system front
downpipe-to-manifold nuts as described -
do not overtighten them
procarmanuals.com

General information
The engine electrical systems include all
ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from body electrical devices such as the
lights, the instruments, etc (which are
included in Chapter 12).
Precautions
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the electrical system:
(a) Be extremely careful when servicing
engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.
(b) Never leave the ignition switched on for
long periods of time when the engine is
not running.
(c) Don’t disconnect the battery leads while
the engine is running.
(d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting
a battery lead from another vehicle during
jump starting - see the “Booster battery
(jump) starting” section at the front of this
manual.
(e) Always disconnect the negative lead first,
and reconnect it last, or the battery may
be shorted by the tool being used to
loosen the lead clamps (see illustration).
It’s also a good idea to review the safety-
related information regarding the engine
electrical systems located in the “Safety first!”
section at the front of this manual, before
beginning any operation included in this Chapter.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever thebattery is to be disconnected therefore, first
note the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it
is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected!
(b) The engine management system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if it
is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this (see
Chapter 6). Whenever the battery is
disconnected, the information relating to idle
speed control and other operating values will
have to be re-programmed into the unit’s
memory. The ECU does this by itself, but
until then, there may be surging, hesitation,
erratic idle and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
(c) If the battery is disconnected while the
alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when
the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
(d) If a trip computer is in use, any
information stored in memory will be lost.
(e) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of thisprocedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s systems are still
operational when the main battery is
disconnected. If a “memory-saver” is used,
ensure that the circuit concerned is
actually “dead” before carrying out any
work on it!
Note:See also the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1.
1Disconnect the battery leads, negative
(earth) lead first - see Section 1.
2Remove the battery hold-down clamp (see
illustrations).
3Lift out the battery. Be careful - it’s heavy.
4While the battery is out, inspect the tray for
corrosion (see Chapter 1).
2 Battery- removal and refitting
1 General information,
precautions and battery
disconnection
5•2 Engine electrical systems
1.2 Always disconnect battery - negative
(earth) lead first - to prevent the possibility
of short-circuits2.2A Unscrew hold-down nuts (one of two
arrowed) . . .2.2B . . . and withdraw hold-down clamp
to release battery
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5If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Note:See also the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1.
1Periodically inspect the entire length of
each battery lead for damage, cracked or
burned insulation, and corrosion. Poor battery
lead connections can cause starting problems
and decreased engine performance.
2Check the lead-to-terminal connections at
the ends of the leads for cracks, loose wire
strands and corrosion. The presence of white,
fluffy deposits under the insulation at the lead
terminal connection is a sign that the lead is
corroded and should be renewed. Check the
terminals for distortion, missing clamp bolts,
and corrosion.
3When removing the leads, always
disconnect the negative lead first, and
reconnect it last (see Section 1). Even if only
the positive lead is being renewed, be sure to
disconnect the negative lead from the battery
first (see Chapter 1 for further information
regarding battery lead removal).
4Disconnect the old leads from the battery,
then trace each of them to their opposite
ends, and detach them from the starter
solenoid and earth terminals. Note the routing
of each lead, to ensure correct installation.
5If you are renewing either or both of the old
leads, take them with you when buying new
leads. It is vitally important that you replace
the leads with identical parts. Leads have
characteristics that make them easy to
identify: positive leads are usually red, larger
in cross-section, and have a larger-diameter
battery post clamp; earth leads are usually
black, smaller in cross-section and have a
slightly smaller-diameter clamp for the
negative post.
6Clean the threads of the solenoid or earth
connection with a wire brush to remove rust
and corrosion.
7Attach the lead to the solenoid or earth
connection, and tighten the mounting nut/bolt
securely.
8Before connecting a new lead to thebattery, make sure that it reaches the battery
post without having to be stretched.
9Connect the positive lead first, followed by
the negative lead.
General
The ignition system includes the ignition
switch, the battery, the crankshaft speed/
position sensor, the coil, the primary (low
tension/LT) and secondary (high tension/HT)
wiring circuits, and the spark plugs. On models
with automatic transmission, a separate
ignition module is also fitted, its functions
being incorporated in the ECU on models with
manual transmission. The ignition system is
controlled by the engine management
system’s Electronic Control Unit (ECU). Using
data provided by information sensors which
monitor various engine functions (such as
engine speed and piston position, intake air
mass and temperature, engine coolant
temperature, etc.), the ECU ensures a
perfectly-timed spark under all conditions (see
Chapter 6). Note:The ignition timing is under
the full control of the ECU, and cannot be
adjusted - see Section 8 for further details.
Precautions
When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
(a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for more
than 10 seconds if the engine will not start.
(b) If a separate tachometer is ever required
for servicing work, consult a dealer
service department before buying a
tachometer for use with this vehicle -
some tachometers may be incompatible
with this ignition system - and always
connect it in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
(c) Never connect the ignition coil terminals
to earth. This could result in damage to
the coil and/or the ECU or ignition module
(whichever is fitted).
(d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
(e) Make sure that the ignition module (where
fitted) is properly earthed.
(f) Refer to the warning at the beginning of
the next Section concerning HT voltage.
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is performed
involving ignition components. This not
only includes the ignition module/ECU, coil
and spark plug (HT) leads, but related
components such as electrical connectors,
tachometer and other test equipment also.Note: This is an initial check of the “ignition
part” of the main engine management system,
to be carried out as part of the preliminary
checks of the complete engine management
system (see Chapter 6).
1If the engine turns over but won’t start,
disconnect the (HT) lead from any spark plug,
and attach it to a calibrated tester (available at
most automotive accessory shops). Connect
the clip on the tester to a good earth - a bolt
or metal bracket on the engine. If you’re
unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester,
have the check carried out by a Ford dealer
service department or similar. Any other form
of testing (such as jumping a spark from the
end of an HT lead to earth) is not
recommended, because of the risk of
personal injury, or of damage to the
ECU/ignition module (see notes above and in
Section 4).
2Crank the engine and watch the end of the
tester to see if bright blue, well-defined sparks
occur.
3If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is
reaching the plug to fire it. Repeat the check
at the remaining plugs, to ensure that all leads
are sound and that the coil is serviceable.
However, the plugs themselves may be fouled
or faulty, so remove and check them as
described in Chapter 1.
4If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur,
the spark plug lead(s) may be defective -
check them as described in Chapter 1.
5If there’s still no spark, check the coil’s
electrical connector, to make sure it’s clean
and tight. Check for full battery voltage to the
coil at the connector’s centre terminal. The
coil is earthed through the ECU - do not
attempt to check this. Check the coil itself
(see Section 6). Make any necessary repairs,
then repeat the check again.
6The remainder of the system checks should
be left to a dealer service department or other
qualified repair facility, as there is a chance
that the ECU may be damaged if tests are not
performed properly.
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is performed
involving ignition components. This not
only includes the ignition module/ECU, coil
and spark plug (HT) leads, but related
components such as electrical connectors,
tachometer and other test equipment also.
Check
1Having checked that full battery voltage is
available at the centre terminal of the coil’s
electrical connector (see Section 5),
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead -
see Section 1.
2Unplug the coil’s electrical connector, if not
already disconnected.
6 Ignition coil -
removal and refitting
5 Ignition system - testing
4 Ignition system - general
information and precautions
3 Battery leads -
check and renewal
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5
Apply a light coat of battery
terminal corrosion inhibitor,
or petroleum jelly, to the
threads, to prevent future
corrosion.
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3Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance of the coil’s primary windings,
connecting the meter between the coil’s
terminal pins as follows. Measure first from
one outer pin to the centre pin, then from the
other outer pin to the centre. Compare your
readings with the coil primary resistance listed
in the Specifications Section at the beginning
of this Chapter.
4Disconnect the spark plug (HT) leads - note
their connections or label them carefully, as
described in Chapter 1. Use the meter to
check that there is continuity (ie, a resistance
corresponding to that of the coil secondary
winding) between each pair of (HT) lead
terminals; Nos 1 and 4 terminals are
connected by their secondary winding, as are
Nos 2 and 3. Now switch to the highest
resistance scale, and check that there is no
continuity between either pair of terminals and
the other - ie, there should be infinite
resistance between terminals 1 and 2, or 4
and 3 - and between any terminal and earth.
5If either of the above tests yield resistance
values outside the specified amount, or
results other than those described, renew the
coil. Any further testing should be left to a
dealer service department or other qualified
repair facility.
Removal and refitting
6Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
7Remove the air mass meter and resonator -
refer to Chapter 4.
8Unplug the electrical connector from each
side of the coil, then disconnect the spark
plug (HT) leads - note their connections or
label them carefully, as described in Chapter
1.
9Undo the two screws securing the EGR
pipe to the coil bracket, then remove the coil
mounting (Torx-type) screws. Withdraw the
coil assembly from the cylinder head (see
illustration).
10The suppressor can be unbolted from the
mounting bracket, if required; note that the
coil and bracket are only available as a single
unit.
11Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the spark plug (HT)
leads are correctly reconnected, and tighten
the coil screws securely.
Note:See Chapter 6 for component location
illustrations.
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
2If better access is required, remove the
resonator (see Chapter 4).
3Unplug the electrical connector from the
module (see illustration).
4Remove the retaining screws, and detach
the module from the bulkhead mounting
bracket.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
As noted in Section 4, the ignition timing is
controlled entirely by the ECU (acting with the
ignition module, on models with automatic
transmission), and cannot be adjusted. The
value quoted in the Specifications Section of
this Chapter is for reference only, and mayvary significantly if “checked” by simply
connecting a timing light to the system and
running the engine at idle speed.
Not only can the ignition timing not be
adjusted, it cannot be checked either, except
with the use of special diagnostic equipment
(see Chapter 6) - this makes it a task for a
Ford dealer service department.
Owners who are taking their vehicles
abroad should note that the ignition system is
set for the engine to use petrol of 95 RON
octane rating by fitting a “plug-in bridge” to
the service connector on the engine
compartment bulkhead (see illustration).
Removing the “plug-in bridge” retards the
ignition timing - by an unspecified value - to
allow the engine to run on 91 RON fuel. This
grade of fuel is the “Regular” or “Normal”
widely used abroad, but not at present
available in the UK. If you are taking the
vehicle abroad, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer (or of one of the motoring
organisations). This will ensure that you are
familiar with the grades of fuel you are likely to
find (and the sometimes confusing names for
those grades), and that the vehicle is set
correctly at all times for the fuel used. Note:
The octane ratings mentioned above are both,
of course, for unleadedpetrol. Do not use
leaded petrol at any time in a vehicle equipped
with a catalytic converter.
Checking
1See Section 4 of Chapter 6.
Removal and refitting
2Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
3Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!
4Unplug the sensor’s electrical connector
(see illustration).
9 Crankshaft speed/position
sensor-
checking, removal and refitting
8 Ignition timing - checking
7 Ignition module (automatic
transmission models only) -
removal and refitting
5•4 Engine electrical systems
6.9 Unplug coil electrical connector (A),
suppressor connector (B), and spark
plug/HT leads (C), remove screws (D), then
undo Torx-type screws (E) to release
ignition coil assembly7.3 Separate ignition module is fitted to
automatic transmission models only - note
electrical connector (A) and retaining
screws (B)
8.3 Service connector (A) mounted on
engine compartment bulkhead is fitted with
“plug-in bridge” (B) to set engine to use
(unleaded) petrol of 95 RON octane rating9.4 Location of crankshaft speed/position
sensor - connector arrowed - in front of
cylinder block/crankcase
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5Undo the sensor’s retaining screw and
withdraw the sensor. The sensor’s bracket
cannot be unbolted from the cylinder
block/crankcase unless the transmission and
flywheel/driveplate have been removed (see
Chapter 2).
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
General information
The charging system includes the
alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a no-
charge (or “ignition”) warning light, the
battery, and the wiring between all the
components. The charging system supplies
electrical power for the ignition system, the
lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven
by the auxiliary drivebelt at the front (right-
hand end) of the engine.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to
limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.
This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,
etc., during peak voltage output.
The charging system doesn’t ordinarily
require periodic maintenance. However, the
drivebelt, battery and wires and connections
should be inspected at the intervals outlined
in Chapter 1.
The dashboard warning light should come
on when the ignition key is turned to positions
“II” or “III”, then should go off immediately the
engine starts. If it remains on, or if it comes on
while the engine is running, there is a
malfunction in the charging system (see
Section 11). If the light does not come on
when the ignition key is turned, and the bulb is
sound (see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the
alternator.
Precautions
Be very careful when making electrical
circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with
an alternator, and note the following:
(a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator
from the battery, be sure to note the
polarity.
(b) Before using arc-welding equipment to
repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the alternator and the
battery terminals.
(c) Never start the engine with a battery
charger connected.
(d) Always disconnect both battery leads
before using a battery charger.
(e) The alternator is driven by an engine
drivebelt which could cause serious injury
if your hand, hair or clothes become
entangled in it with the engine running.
(f) Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out.
(g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator,
and secure it with rubber bands, beforesteam-cleaning or pressure-washing the
engine.
(h) Never disconnect the alternator terminals
while the engine is running.
1If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:
(a) Check the tension and condition of the
auxiliary drivebelt - renew it if it is worn or
deteriorated (see Chapter 1).
(b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts and
nuts are tight.
(c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and
the electrical connections at the
alternator; they must be in good
condition, and tight.
(d) Check the large main fuses in the engine
compartment (see Chapter 12). If any is
blown, determine the cause, repair the
circuit and renew the fuse (the vehicle
won’t start and/or the accessories won’t
work if the fuse is blown).
(e) Start the engine and check the alternator
for abnormal noises - for example, a
shrieking or squealing sound may indicate
a badly-worn bearing or brush.
(f) Make sure that the battery is fully-charged
- one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator.
(g) Disconnect the battery leads (negative
first, then positive). Inspect the battery
posts and the lead clamps for corrosion.
Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see
Section 3 and Chapter 1). Reconnect the
lead to the negative terminal.
(h) With the ignition and all accessories
switched off, insert a test light between
the battery negative post and the
disconnected negative lead clamp:
(1) If the test light does not come on, re-
attach the clamp and proceed to the next
step.
(2) If the test light comes on, there is a short
in the electrical system of the vehicle. The
short must be repaired before the
charging system can be checked.
(3) To find the short, disconnect the
alternator wiring harness:
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is
at fault.
(b) If the light stays on, remove each fuse
until it goes out - this will tell you
which component is short-circuited.
2Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be
approximately 12 volts.
3Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. Increase engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; it should
now be approximately 13.5 to 14.6 volts.
4Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg the headlights, heated rear window andheater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may drop
and then come back up; it may also be
necessary to increase engine speed slightly,
even if the charging system is working
properly.
5If the voltage reading is greater than the
specified charging voltage, renew the voltage
regulator (see Section 13).
6If the voltmeter reading is less than that
specified, the fault may be due to worn
brushes, weak brush springs, a faulty voltage
regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase
winding, or worn or damaged slip rings. The
brushes and slip rings may be checked (see
Section 13), but if the fault persists, the
alternator should be renewed or taken to an
auto-electrician for testing and repair.
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
2Remove the plenum chamber (see Chap-
ter 4).
3Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the wiring
from the alternator (see illustration). If
additional working clearance is required, undo
the right-hand of the three screws securing
the wiring “rail” to the rear of the inlet
manifold.
4Jack up and support the front right-hand
corner of the vehicle. Remove the auxiliary
drivebelt and the engine oil filter - place a wad
of rag to soak up the spilled oil (see Chap-
ter 1). Rather than refit a used filter, you are
advised to drain the engine oil, and then to fit
a new filter and refill the engine with clean oil
on reassembly. Where an engine oil cooler is
fitted, it may prove necessary to remove this
as well, to provide the clearance necessary to
remove the alternator (see Chapter 2, Part A).
5Unscrew the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the front suspension subframe. With the
front wheels in the straight-ahead position,
disconnect the right-hand track rod end from
the steering knuckle (see Chapter 10).
6Remove the mounting bolts and nuts (one
12 Alternator-
removal and refitting
11 Charging system- testing
10 Charging system - general
information and precautions
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5
12.3 Disconnecting alternator wiring
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starter motor must be overhauled or renewed.
(Other possibilities are that the starter motor
mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth
are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring
gear.)
4If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to
click when the switch is actuated, the battery
is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the
solenoid itself is defective.
6To check the solenoid, connect a fused
jumper lead between the battery (+) and the
ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on
the solenoid. If the starter motor now
operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem
is in the ignition switch, selector lever position
sensor (automatic transmission) or in the
wiring.
7If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove it (see Section 16). The brushes and
commutator may be checked (see Sec-
tion 17), but if the fault persists, the motor
should be renewed, or taken to an auto-
electrician for testing and repair.
8If the starter motor cranks the engine at anabnormally-slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged, and that all terminal
connections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then switch off and
disable the ignition system by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector; remove
fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.
10Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the
battery positive terminal, and connect the
negative lead to the negative terminal.
11Crank the engine, and take the voltmeter
readings as soon as a steady figure is
indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A
reading of 10.5 volts or more, with the starter
motor turning at normal cranking speed, is
normal. If the reading is 10.5 volts or more but
the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid
contacts are burned, the motor is faulty, or
there is a bad connection. If the reading is less
than 10.5 volts and the cranking speed is
slow, the starter motor is faulty or there is a
problem with the battery.1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1.
2Remove the air mass meter and resonator -
refer to Chapter 4.
3Unscrew the upper two starter motor
mounting bolts, noting that one also secures
an engine/transmission earth lead (see
illustration).
4Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
Warning: Do not place any part of
your body under a vehicle when
it’s supported only by a jack!
5Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the wiring
from the starter/solenoid terminals.
6Remove the remaining starter motor
mounting bolt (see illustration). Remove the
starter.
7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque wrench settings.
Note:This procedure assumes that
replacement brushes of the correct type have
been obtained - at the time of writing, no
individual starter motor components were
available as separate replacement Ford parts.
An auto electrical specialist should be able to
supply parts such as brushes.
The following procedures are for the
Lucas/Magneti Marelli unit fitted to the project
vehicle - the procedure is essentially the same
for the Bosch unit that may be found on other
models.
1Remove the starter motor from the vehicle
(Section 16) (see illustration).
17 Starter motor- brush and
solenoid renewal
16 Starter motor -
removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
16.3 Unscrew upper two starter motor
mounting bolts (arrowed) from above16.6 Disconnect starter motor wiring (A),
then unscrew remaining mounting bolt (B),
and remove starter motor from beneath
vehicle
17.1 Exploded view of the Bosch DW starter
motor
1 Solenoid
2 Spring
3 Plunger
4 Engaging lever
5 Drive end housing
6 Drive pinion and
clutch
7 Spacer
8 Ring gear and carrier
9 Output shaft and
planet gear unit
10 Circlip11 Screw
12 End cap
13 C-clip
14 Shim
15 Commutator end
housing
16 Brushplate
17 Yoke
18 Rubber block
19 Armature
20 Retaining plate
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basic ABS system, with an additional pump
and valves fitted to the hydraulic actuator (see
illustration). If wheelspin is detected at a
speed below 30 mph, one of the valves
opens, to allow the pump to pressurise the
relevant brake, until the spinning wheel slows
to a rotational speed corresponding to the
speed of the vehicle. This has the effect of
transferring torque to the wheel with mosttraction. At the same time, the throttle plate is
closed slightly, to reduce the torque from the
engine. At speeds above 30 mph, the TCS
operates by throttle plate adjustment only.
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel, as
uneven braking may result. Although
genuine Ford linings are asbestos-free, the
dust created by wear of non-genuine pads
may contain asbestos, which is a health
hazard. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts; use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid,
oil or grease to contact the brake pads or
disc. Also refer to the warning at the start
of Section 15 concerning brake fluid.
1Apply the handbrake. Loosen the front
wheel nuts, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands.
2Remove the front wheels. Work on onebrake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
3Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 2.3A, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order,
and read the caption under each illustration.
4Inspect the front brake disc for scoring and
cracks. If a detailed inspection is necessary,
refer to Section 4.
5The piston must be pushed back into the
2 Front brake pads - renewal
Braking system 9•3
9
1.4 Solenoid valves fitted to the ABS/TCS
hydraulic actuator
1 ABS/TCS actuator
2 ABS solenoid valves
3 TCS solenoid valves
1.3 Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and Traction Control System (TCS) component locations (left-hand-drive shown,
right-hand-drive similar)
1 ABS/TCS unit
2 ABS/TCS warning lights
3 TCS switch4 Rear wheel sensor ring location (drum
brakes left, disc brakes right)
5 Stop-light switch6 Self-test/diagnosis connectors
7 Front wheel sensor and ring
8 Throttle actuator
2.3A Prise the retaining clip from the
caliper. Hold it with a pair of pliers, to
avoid personal injury. On models fitted
with pad wear sensors, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring
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