engine FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Manual PDF

grinding or head resurfacing. Use
compressed air, if available, to blow out all the
oil holes and passages.
2Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate
and install the first valve. Apply molybdenum
disulphide-based grease or clean engine oil to
the valve stem, and refit the valve. Where the
original valves are being re-used, ensure that
each is refitted in its original guide. If new
valves are being fitted, insert them into the
locations to which they have been ground.
3Fit the plastic protector supplied with new
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the
end of the valve stem, then put the new seal
squarely on top of the guide, and leave it
there; the action of refitting the valve spring
presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place
(see illustration).
4Refit the valve spring and upper seat.
5Compress the spring with a valve spring
compressor, and carefully install the collets in
the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease
to each collet to hold it in place if necessary
(see illustration). Slowly release the
compressor, and make sure the collets seat
properly.
6When the valve is installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the
components.7Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Be sure to return the components to
their original locations - don’t mix them up!
8Refit the hydraulic tappets (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 13).
Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
Note:While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. In addition to the new gaskets and other
replacement parts required, a hoist will be
needed. Alternatively, an adjustable engine
support bar, fitting into the water drainchannels on each side of the bonnet aperture,
and having a hook which will engage the
engine lifting eyes and allow the height of the
engine to be adjusted, could be used. Lifting
equipment such as this can be hired from
most tool hire shops - be sure that any such
equipment is rated well in excess of the
combined weight of the engine/transmission
unit.
1Remove the cylinder head (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 14).
2Bolt lifting eyes to suitable points on the
engine and transmission, then attach the
lifting equipment so that the engine/
transmission unit is supported securely.
3Remove the sump (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 15).
4Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see
illustration).
5Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that
each piston/connecting rod assembly can be
identified by its cylinder number (counting
from the timing belt end of the engine) etched
into the flat-machined surface of both the
connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine. Furthermore, each piston has an
arrow stamped into its crown, pointing
towards the timing belt end of the engine. If
no marks can be seen, make your own before
disturbing any of the components, so that you
can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round (see
illustrations).
6Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has
formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a
quarter-inch down from the top of each
cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear
have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool (see
illustration). Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions provided with the tool. Failure to
remove the ridges before attempting to
9 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies- removal
2B•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
8.3 Valve spring pressure is sufficient to
seat lower seat/stem oil seals on
reassembly8.5 Apply a small dab of grease to each
collet before installation - it will hold them
in place on the valve stem until the spring
is released9.4 Removing the oil baffle to provide
access to crankshaft and bearings
9.5A Each connecting rod and big-end
bearing cap will have a flat-machined
surface visible from the front (exhaust)
side of the engine, with the cylinder
number etched in it
9.5B Piston crown markings
A 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines
B 2.0 litre engines
1 Gudgeon pin diameter grade - when used
2 Piston skirt diameter grade
3 Arrow mark - pointing to timing belt end of
engine
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remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies
may result in piston ring breakage.
7Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
8Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,
double-check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
9Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
10After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.
11Don’t attempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods - see Section 12.
Note:The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine/transmission has been
removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that
the transmission and flywheel/driveplate,
timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle, oil pump,
and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have
already been removed. The crankshaft left-
hand oil seal carrier must be unbolted from
the cylinder block/crankcase before
proceeding with crankshaft removal.
1Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration).
2Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, andcheck the reading obtained. The distance that
the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat; these are part of the No 3 (centre)
main bearing upper shell (see illustration).
3If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges
can be used. Gently lever or push the
crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand
end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between
the crankshaft and the right-hand face of the
No 3 (centre) main bearing to determine the
clearance (see illustration).
4Check the main bearing caps, to see if they
are marked to indicate their locations (see
illustration). They should be numbered
consecutively from the timing belt end of the
engine - if not, mark them with number-
stamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps will
also have an embossed arrow pointing to the
timing belt end of the engine. Noting the
different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used on
caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, starting with the left- and
right-hand end caps and working toward the
centre, until they can be removed by hand.
5Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced
hammer, then separate them from the cylinder
block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop
the bearing shells if they come out with the
caps.6Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. It may be a good idea to have an
assistant available, since the crankshaft is
quite heavy. With the bearing shells in place in
the cylinder block/crankcase and main
bearing caps, return the caps to their
respective locations on the block, and tighten
the bolts finger-tight. Leaving the old shells in
place until reassembly will help prevent the
bearing recesses from being accidentally
nicked or gouged. New shells should be used
on reassembly.
Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
Cleaning
1For complete cleaning, remove the water
pump, all external components, and all
electrical switches/sensors. Unbolt the
piston-cooling oil jets or blanking plugs (as
11 Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection
10 Crankshaft - removal
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•13
2B
10.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a
feeler gauge
10.4 Before unbolting crankshaft main
bearing caps, note arrows pointing to timing
belt end of engine (A), and bearing numbers
(B) consecutive from timing belt end
9.6 A ridge reamer may be required, to
remove the ridge from the top of each
cylinder - do this before removing the
pistons!10.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a
dial gauge10.2 Thrustwashers integral with No 3
(centre) main bearing upper shell control
crankshaft endfloat
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applicable); note that Ford state that the
piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be
renewed whenever the engine is dismantled
for full overhaul (see illustrations).
2Remove the main bearing caps, and
separate the bearing shells from the caps and
the cylinder block/crankcase. Mark or label
the shells, indicating which bearing they were
removed from, and whether they were in the
cap or the block, then set them aside (see
illustration). Wipe clean the block and cap
bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks,
gouges and scratches.
3Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinderblock/crankcase, taking care not to damage
the sealing surfaces.
4Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped.
Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller (see illustration).
Caution: The core plugs (also
known as freeze or soft plugs)
may be difficult or impossible to
retrieve if they are driven into the
block coolant passages.5If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
6After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
8All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
2B•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
11.1A Remove water pump . . .11.1B . . . crankcase breather pipe and
PCV valve . . .11.1C . . . unbolt crankcase ventilation
system oil separator . . .
11.1F . . . but note that piston-cooling oil
jets (where fitted) must be renewed as a
matter of course whenever engine is
overhauled11.2 Felt marker pens can be used as
shown to identify bearing shells without
damaging them
11.1D . . . remove electrical
switches/sensors such as crankshaft
speed/position sensor . . .11.1E . . . unbolt blanking plugs (where
fitted) to clean out oilways . . .
11.4 The core plugs should be removed
with a puller - if they’re driven into the
block, they may be impossible to
retrieve
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each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes in
this way, and be sure to dry out
any excess liquid left in the holes.
9When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase
(see illustration). Make sure they are driven
in straight and seated properly, or leakage
could result. Special tools are available for
this purpose, but a large socket with an
outside diameter that will just slip into the
core plug, used with an extension and
hammer, will work just as well.
10Refit the blanking plugs or (new) piston-
cooling oil jets (as applicable), tightening their
Torx screws to the torque wrench setting
specified (see illustration). Refit also all other
external components removed, referring tothe relevant Chapter of this manual for further
details where required. Refit the main bearing
caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
11If the engine is not going to be
reassembled right away, cover it with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean; protect the
machined surfaces as described above, to
prevent rusting.
Inspection
12Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly (see illustration).
13Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
14Noting that the cylinder bores must be
measured with all the crankshaft main bearing
caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft
and bearing shells), to the specified torque
wrench settings, measure the diameter of
each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge
area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore,
parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure
each cylinder’s diameter at the same three
locations across the crankshaft axis (see
illustrations). Note the measurements
obtained.
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•15
2B
11.12 Cylinder block, piston/connecting
rod and crankshaft details
1 Cylinder block/crankcase
2 Piston
3 Connecting rod
4 Big-end bearing shell
5 Big-end bearing cap
6 Big-end bearing cap bolts
7 Crankshaft
11.14A Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
11.14B The ability to “feel” when the
telescoping gauge is at the correct point will
be developed over time, so work slowly, and
repeat the check until you’re satisfied that
the bore measurement is accurate
11.8 All bolt holes in the block -
particularly the main bearing cap and head
bolt holes - should be cleaned and
restored with a tap (be sure to remove
debris from the holes after this is done)11.9 A large socket on an extension can
be used to drive the new core plugs into
their bores11.10 Do not forget to refit all components
- such as oilway blanking plugs (three of
four arrowed) - tighten fasteners to torque
wrench settings specified
11.14C The gauge is then measured with a
micrometer to determine the bore size
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15Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results
(see illustration).
16If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt
as described above, and subtract the skirt
diameter from the bore measurement. If the
precision measuring tools shown are not
available, the condition of the pistons and
bores can be assessed, though not quite as
accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows.
Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the
specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it
into the cylinder along with the matching
piston. The piston must be positioned exactly
as it normally would be. The feeler gauge
must be between the piston and cylinder on
one of the thrust faces (at right-angles to the
gudgeon pin bore). The piston should slip
through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge in
place) with moderate pressure; if it falls
through or slides through easily, the clearance
is excessive, and a new piston will be
required. If the piston binds at the lower end
of the cylinder, and is loose toward the top,
the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are
encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-
round (oval).
17Repeat these procedures for the
remaining pistons and cylinder bores.
18Compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the
dimensions specified for that class (check the
piston crown marking to establish the class of
piston fitted), or if any bore measurement is
significantly different from the others
(indicating that the bore is tapered or oval),
the piston or bore is excessively-worn.
19Worn pistons must be renewed; at the
time of writing, pistons are available as Ford
replacement parts only as part of the
complete piston/connecting rod assembly.
See a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist for advice.
20If any of the cylinder bores are badlyscuffed or scored, or if they are excessively-
worn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual
course of action would be to have the cylinder
block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new,
oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a Ford
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for
advice.
21If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not excessively-worn, then it
may only be necessary to renew the piston
rings.
22If this is the case (and if new rings can be
found), the bores should be honed, to allow
the new rings to bed in correctly and provide
the best possible seal; before honing the
bores, refit the main bearing caps (without the
bearing shells), and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting. Note:If you
don’t have the tools, or don’t want to tackle
the honing operation, most engine
reconditioning specialists will do it for a
reasonable fee.
23Two types of cylinder hones are
commonly available - the flex hone or “bottle-
brush” type, and the more traditional
surfacing hone with spring-loaded stones.
Both will do the job and are used with a
power drill, but for the less-experienced
mechanic, the “bottle-brush” hone will
probably be easier to use. You will also need
some paraffin or honing oil, and rags.
Proceed as follows:
(a) Mount the hone in the drill, compress the
stones, and slip it into the first bore (see
illustration). Be sure to wear safety
goggles or a face shield!
(b) Lubricate the bore with plenty of honing
oil, switch on the drill, and move the hone
up and down the bore, at a pace that will
produce a fine cross-hatch pattern on the
cylinder walls. Ideally, the cross-hatch
lines should intersect at approximately a
60° angle (see illustration). Be sure to
use plenty of lubricant, and don’t take off
any more material than is absolutely
necessary to produce the desired finish.
Note:Piston ring manufacturers may
specify a different crosshatch angle - readand follow any instructions included with
the new rings.
(c) Don’t withdraw the hone from the bore
while it’s running. Instead, switch off the
drill, and continue moving the hone up
and down the bore until it comes to a
complete stop, then compress the stones
and withdraw the hone. If you’re using a
“bottle-brush” hone, switch off the drill,
then turn the chuck in the normal
direction of rotation while withdrawing the
hone from the bore.
(d) Wipe the oil out of the bore, and repeat
the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
(e) When all the cylinder bores are honed,
chamfer the top edges of the bores with a
small file, so the rings won’t catch when
the pistons are installed. Be very careful
not to nick the cylinder walls with the end
of the file.
(f) The entire cylinder block/crankcase must
be washed very thoroughly with warm,
soapy water, to remove all traces of the
abrasive grit produced during the honing
operation. Note:The bores can be
considered clean when a lint-free white
cloth - dampened with clean engine oil -
used to wipe them out doesn’t pick up
any more honing residue, which will show
up as grey areas on the cloth. Be sure to
run a brush through all oil holes and
galleries, and flush them with running
water.
(g) When the cylinder block/crankcase is
completely clean, rinse it thoroughly and
dry it, then lightly oil all exposed
machined surfaces, to prevent rusting.
24The cylinder block/crankcase should now
be completely clean and dry, with all
components checked for wear or damage,
and repaired or overhauled as necessary.
Refit as many ancillary components as
possible, for safekeeping (see paragraphs 9
and 10 above). If reassembly is not to start
immediately, cover the block with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean, and protect the
machined surfaces as described above to
prevent rusting.
2B•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
11.15 Measure the piston skirt diameter at
right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just
above the base of the skirt11.23A A “bottle-brush” hone will produce
better results if you have never honed
cylinders before11.23B The cylinder hone should leave a
smooth, cross-hatch pattern with the lines
intersecting at approximately a 60º angle
procarmanuals.com

Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
1Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned, and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons. The
rings should have smooth, polished working
surfaces, with no dull or carbon-coated
sections (showing that the ring is not sealing
correctly against the bore wall, so allowing
combustion gases to blow by) and no traces
of wear on their top and bottom surfaces. The
end gaps should be clear of carbon, but not
polished (indicating a too-small end gap), and
all the rings (including the elements of the oil
control ring) should be free to rotate in their
grooves, but without excessive up-and-down
movement. If the rings appear to be in good
condition, they are probably fit for further use;
check the end gaps (in an unworn part of the
bore) as described in Section 16. If any of the
rings appears to be worn or damaged, or has
an end gap significantly different from the
specified value, the usual course of action is
to renew all of them as a set. Note:While it is
usual always to renew piston rings when an
engine is overhauled, this of course assumes
that rings are available separately - if not, it
follows that great care must be taken not to
break or damage any of the rings during the
following procedures, and to ensure that each
ring is marked on removal so that it is refitted
onlythe original way up, and onlyto the same
groove.
2Using a piston ring renoval tool, carefully
remove the rings from the pistons. Be careful
not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
process, and mark or label each ring as it is
removed, so that its original top surface canbe identified on reassembly, and so that it can
be returned to its original groove. Take care
also with your hands - piston rings are sharp!
3Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece
of fine emery cloth can be used, once the
majority of the deposits have been scraped
away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
deposits from the pistons - the piston material
is soft, and may be eroded away by the wire
brush.
4Use a piston ring groove-cleaning tool to
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool isn’t available, but
replacement rings have been found, a piece
broken off the old ring will do the job. Be very
careful to remove only the carbon deposits -
don’t remove any metal, and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves (see
illustrations). Protect your fingers - piston
rings are sharp!
5Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent,
and dry them with compressed air (if
available). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves, and the oilhole in the lower end of each rod, are clear.
6If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’t
damaged or worn excessively - refer to
Section 11 for details of inspection and
measurement procedures - and if the cylinder
block/crankcase is not rebored, new pistons
won’t be necessary. Normal piston wear
appears as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove.
7Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the
ring lands (between the ring grooves).
8Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown,
and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If
the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating and/or
abnormal combustion, which caused
excessively-high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston
crown is an indication that abnormal
combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.
Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown
are usually evidence of spark knock
(detonation). If any of the above problems
exist, the causes must be corrected, or the
damage will occur again. The causes may
include intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air
mixture, incorrect ignition timing, or EGR
system malfunctions.
9Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small
pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the
combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
Again, the cause must be corrected, or the
problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.
10Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite
directions. Any noticeable play indicates
excessive wear, which must be corrected. The
piston/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to a Ford dealer or engine recondition-
ing specialist to have the pistons, gudgeon
pins and rods checked, and new components
fitted as required.
11Don’tattempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods (even if non-genuine
replacements are found elsewhere). This is a
task for a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, due to the special
heating equipment, press, mandrels and
supports required to do the job. If the
piston/connecting rod assemblies do require
this sort of work, have the connecting rods
checked for bend and twist, since only such
engine repair specialists will have the facilities
for this purpose.
12Check the connecting rods for cracks and
other damage. Temporarily remove the big-
end bearing caps and the old bearing shells,
wipe clean the rod and cap bearing recesses,
and inspect them for nicks, gouges and
scratches. After checking the rods, replace
the old shells, slip the caps into place, and
tighten the bolts finger-tight.
12 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies - inspection
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•17
2B
12.4A The piston ring grooves can be
cleaned with a special tool, as shown
here . . .12.4B . . . or a section of a broken ring, if
available
If a piston ring removal tool is not
available, the rings can be removed by
hand, expanding them over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old
feeler blades will be helpful in
preventing the rings dropping into
empty grooves.
procarmanuals.com

Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
1Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with
compressed air if available.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.
2Check the main and crankpin (big-end)
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
3Rub a penny across each journal several
times (see illustration). If a journal picks up
copper from the penny, it is too rough.
4Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
5Using a micrometer, measure the diameter
of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)
journals, and compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter
(see illustration).
6By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,
you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
7If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the
limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft
must be taken to an engine overhaul
specialist, who will regrind it, and who can
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
8Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in itsjournal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible, or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.
Note:Always check first what replacement
parts are available before planning any
overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this
Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine
reconditioning specialist/automotive parts
supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives
which will enable you to overcome the lack of
replacement parts.
1Even though the main and big-end bearing
shells should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old shells should be retained for
close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine (see illustration).
2Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening
again.
3When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase and
main bearing caps, and from the connecting
rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay
them out on a clean surface in the same
general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do nottouch any shell’s
bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned using the proper cleaning methods.
Whatever the source, these foreign objects
often end up embedded in the soft bearing
material, and are easily recognized. Large
particles will not embed in the material, and
will score or gouge the shell and journal. The
best prevention for this cause of bearing
failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to
keep everything spotlessly-clean during
engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine
oil and filter changes are also recommended.
5Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of inter-related
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive
bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high
engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which
usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in
a bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil,
and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the
cause of bearing failure, the bearing material
is wiped or extruded from the shell’s steel
backing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing turns blue from
overheating.
6Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the shells to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces, and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-distance driving
leads to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off condensed water and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,
forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
14 Main and big-end bearings-
inspection
13 Crankshaft - inspection
2B•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
13.3 Rubbing a penny lengthwise along
each journal will reveal its condition - if
copper rubs off and is embedded in the
crankshaft, the journals should be
reground13.5 Measure the diameter of each
crankshaft journal at several points, to
detect taper and out-of-round conditions
14.1 When inspecting the main and big-
end bearings, look for these problems
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to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing
running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure. Do not
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
1Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
new parts have been obtained, and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure, to familiarise yourself
with the work involved, and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, suitable sealant will be required for
two of the joint faces (Ford recommend
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps). In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system
or inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust
sealants upstream of the catalytic converter.
2In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order:
(a) Crankshaft (Section 17).
(b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 18).
(c) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Section
16).
(d) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(e) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(f) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).(g) Timing belt inner cover, tensioner and
toothed pulleys, and timing belt (Part A of
this Chapter).
(h) Engine external components.
3At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
repaired; they should be laid out (or in
individual containers) on a completely-clean
work surface.
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep
them together as a matched set from now on.
2Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston
(see illustration). The ring should be near the
bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit of
ring travel.
3To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found (see
illustration). The feeler gauge should slide
between the ring ends with a slight amount of
drag. Compare the measurement to the value
given in the Specifications Section of this
Chapter; if the gap is larger or smaller than
specified, double-check to make sure you
have the correct rings before proceeding. If
you are assessing the condition of used rings,
have the cylinder bores checked and
measured by a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, so that you can be
sure of exactly which component is worn, and
seek advice as to the best course of action to
take.
4If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for eachring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration).
Note:Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove (see
illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used,
make sure it is inserted into the drilled hole in
the ring groove. Next, install the lower side
rail. Don’t use a piston ring installation tool on
the oil ring side rails, as they may be
damaged. Instead, place one end of the side
rail into the groove between the
spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it
firmly in place, and slide a finger around the
piston while pushing the rail into the groove
16 Piston rings - refitting
15 Engine overhaul -
reassembly sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•19
2B
16.7A Installing the spacer/expander in
the oil control ring groove
16.2 When checking piston ring end gap,
the ring must be square in the cylinder
bore (this is done by pushing the ring down
with the top of a piston, as shown)
16.3 With the ring square in the bore,
measure the end gap with a feeler
gauge16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
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(see illustration). Next, install the upper side
rail in the same manner.
8After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9The second compression (middle) ring is
installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10With all the rings in position, space the
ring gaps (including the elements of the oil
control ring) uniformly around the piston at
120° intervals. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining pistons and rings.
1Crankshaft refitting is the first major step in
engine reassembly. It is assumed at this point
that the cylinder block/crankcase and
crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected and
repaired or reconditioned as necessary.
Position the engine upside-down.
2Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and liftout the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
4Clean the backs of the new main bearing
shells. Fit the shells with an oil groove in each
main bearing location in the block; note the
thrustwashers integral with the No 3 (centre)
main bearing upper shell. Fit the other shell
from each bearing set in the corresponding
main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each
bearing shell fits into the notch in the block or
cap. Also, the oil holes in the block must line
up with the oil holes in the bearing shell (see
illustration).
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or gouge
the bearing faces. No lubrication
should be used at this time.
5Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells inthe block and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
6Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,
carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
Trim several pieces of the appropriate-size
Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings), and place one
piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line
(see illustration).
7Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap
shells, and install the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing to the timing belt end of the engine.
Don’t disturb the Plastigage (see illustration).
8Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at
any time during this operation!
9Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from side-
to-side with a soft-faced mallet to loosen
them.
10Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal with the scale
printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration). Check the Specifications to
make sure that the clearance is correct.
11If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition (see Sec-
tion 13), it may be possible simply to renew
the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If
this is not possible, the crankshaft must be
reground by a specialist who can supply the
necessary undersized shells. First though,
17 Crankshaft-
refitting and main bearing
running clearance check
2B•20 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
16.7B DO NOT use a piston ring
installation tool when installing the oil ring
side rails17.4 Tab on each bearing shell must
engage with notch in block or cap, and oil
holes in upper shells must align with block
oilways17.6 Lay the Plastigage strips (arrowed) on
the main bearing journals, parallel to the
crankshaft centre-line
17.7 Refit the main bearing caps and
tighten the bolts as specified
17.10 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to
determine the main bearing oil clearance
(always take the measurement at the
widest point of the Plastigage). Be sure to
use the correct scale; Imperial and metric
scales are included
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make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered (see Section 13).
12Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final refitting
13Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface (see illustration).
Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well.
14Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
15Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt end of the engine.
16Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the mainbearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting.
17Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
18Check the crankshaft endfloat (see
Section 10). It should be correct if the
crankshaft thrust faces aren’t worn or
damaged, and if the No 3 (centre) main
bearing’s upper shell has been renewed.
19Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal
carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A of
this Chapter, Section 20).
1Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing
recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!
Big-end bearing running
clearance check
3Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each shell
fits into the notch in the rod or cap recess
(see illustration).
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells
into place, and don’t nick or
gouge the bearing face. Don’t
lubricate the bearing at this time.
4It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead
Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
7Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the arrow on the piston
crown points to the timing belt end of the
engine. The cylinder number (counting from
the timing belt end of the engine) is etched
into the flat-machined surface of the
connecting rod and its cap, and must be
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine (see illustrations 9.5A and 9.5B).
Gently insert the assembly into the No 1
cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the
ring compressor on the engine block.
8Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration), while guiding the connecting
18 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies-
refitting and big-end bearing
running clearance check
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•21
2B
18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shell
must engage with notch in connecting rod
or cap18.9 The piston can be driven gently into
the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden
or plastic hammer handle
18.11 The connecting rod and big-end
bearing cap of each assembly must share
the same etched cylinder number, visible
from the same (front/exhaust) side of the
engine
17.13 Ensure bearing shells are absolutely
clean, lubricate liberally . . .17.15 . . . and refit the crankshaft
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