flat tire FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

03-12-06

Wheels And Tires

03-12-06

Tool-T56P-1217-A

INNER CUP

INSTALLATION
OUTER CUP

INSTALLATION

F1464-A

FIG. ^.Installing Front Wheel

Drum Bearing Cups

LUBR

F1427. A

FIG. 75—Front Wheel Hub

Lubrication

10.
All old grease should be com-

pletely cleaned from the bearings and

surrounding surfaces before repacking

them with new grease (C1AZ-

19590-B). The new lithium base grease

is not compatible with sodium base

grease which may have been present

on the bearing surfaces. Pack the

bearing cone and roller assemblies

with wheel bearing grease. A bearing

packer is desirable for this operation.

If a packer is not available, work as

much lubricant as possible between

the rollers and cages. Lubricate the

cone surfaces with grease.

11.
Place the inner bearing cone

and roller assembly in the inner cup,

Apply a light film of grease to the

lip(s) of the grease retainer and install

the new grease retainer with the rev-

erse end of the tool shown in Fig. 6.
Be sure that the retainer is properly

seated.

12.
Adjust the brake shoes as out-

lined in Group 2.

13.
Install the wheel, hub, and

drum assembly on the wheel spindle.

Keep the hub centered on the spindle

to prevent damage to the grease re-

tainer or the spindle threads.

14.
Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle, then install the ad-

justing nut (Fig. 1).

15.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

16.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

DISC BRAKES

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clear the floor.

2.
Remove the wheel cover or hub

cap from the wheel.

3.
Remove the wheel and tire from

the hub and rotor.

4.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-

move the caliper from the rotor and

wire it to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

5.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly (Fig. 2).

6. Pull the hub and rotor assembly

off the wheel spindle.

7.
Remove and discard the old

grease retainer and the inner bearing

cone and roller assembly from the

hub.
8. Clean the lubricant off the inner

and outer bearing cups with solvent

and inspect the cups for scratches,

pits,
excessive wear, and other dam-

age.
If the cups are worn or damaged,

remove them with Tool T69L-1102-A

(Fig. 13).

On Lincoln Continental models, re-

move worn or damaged cups with the

tools shown in Fig. 16.

9. Thoroughly clean the inner and

outer bearing cones and rollers with

computer solvent, and dry them

thoroughly. Do not spin the bearings

dry with compressed air.

Inspect the cones and rollers for

wear or damage, and replace them if

necessary. The cone and roller assem-

blies and the bearing cups should be

replaced as a set if damage to either is

encountered.

10.
Thoroughly clean the spindle

and the inside of the hub with solvent

to remove all old lubricant.

Cover the spindle with a clean

cloth, and brush all loose dust and

dirt from the dust shield. To prevent

getting dirt on the spindle carefully re-

move the cloth from the spindle.

11.
If the inner and/or outer bear-

ing cup(s) were removed, install the

replacement cup(s) in the hub with the

tools shown in Fig. 17. Be sure to seat

the cups properly in the hub.

12.
Pack the inside of the hub with

the specified wheel bearing grease.

Add lubricant to the hub only until

the grease is flush with the inside di-

ameter of both bearing cups.

It is important that all old grease

be removed from the wheel bearings

and surrounding surfaces because the

new Lithium base grease C1AZ-

19590-B is not compatible with Sodi-

um base grease which may already be

present on the bearing surfaces.

F 1502-A

FIG. 16—Removing Front Wheel Bearing Cup—Lincoln Continentalprocarmanuals.com

03-12-07
Wheels And Tires

03-12-07

Tool - 7277- K

F 1263-A

FIG. 17—Installing Front Wheel Bearing Cup

13.
Pack the bearing cone and roll-

er assemblies with wheel bearing

grease. A bearing packer is desirable

for this operation. If a packer is not

available, work as much lubricant as

possible between the rollers and cages.

Lubricate the cone surfaces with

grease.

14.
Place the inner bearing cone

and roller assembly in the inner cup.

Apply a light film of grease to the lips

of the grease retainer and install the

new grease retainer with the tool

shown in Fig. 18. Be sure the retainer

is properly seated.

15.
Install the hub and rotor as-

sembly on the wheel spindle. Keep the

hub centered on the spindle to prevent

damage to the grease retainer or the

spindle threads.

16.
Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle, then install the ad-

justing nut.

17.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

18.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and torque the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications as detailed in Group 2.

19.
Install the wheel and tire on the

hub.

20.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

21.
Before driving the vehicle,

pump the brake pedal several times to

obtain normal brake lining to rotor

clearance and restore normal brake

pedal travel.
FRONT HUB AND DRUM

ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

When the hub and drum assembly

is replaced, new bearings and a grease

retainer must be installed in the new

assembly. The new grease retainer

should be soaked in light engine oil at

least 30 minutes before installation.

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clears the floor. Pry off the

hub cap or wheel cover, and remove

the wheel and tire from the hub and

drum assembly.

2.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle. Remove the outer bearing

cone and roller assembly (Fig. 1).

3.
Pull the hub and drum assembly

off the wheel spindle.

4.
Remuve the grease retainer and

the inner bearing cone and roller as-

sembly from the hub with Tool

1175AE.

5.
Remove the protective coating

from the new hub and drum with car-

buretor degreaser.

6. Pack the inside of the hub with

specified wheel bearing grease. Add

lubricant to the hub only until the

grease is flush with the inside diame-

ter of both bearing cups (Fig. 15).

7.
All old grease should be com-

pletely cleaned from the bearings be-

fore repacking them with new grease.

Pack the bearing cone and roller

assemblies with wheel bearing grease.

A bearing packer is desirable for this

operation. If a packer is not available,

work as much lubricant as possible

between the rollers and cages. Lubri-

cate the cone surfaces with grease.
8. Place the inner bearing cone and

roller assembly in the inner cup, and

install the new grease retainer with the

reverse end of the tool shown in Fig.

6. Be sure that the retainer is properly

seated.

9. Adjust the brake shoes as out-

lined in Group 2.

10.
Install the new hub and drum

assembly on the wheel spindle. Keep

the hub centered on the spindle to pre-

vent damage to the grease retainer.

11.
Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle; then, install the ad-

justing nut (Fig. 1).

12.
Position the wheel and tire on

the new hub and drum assembly. In-

stall the wheel hub nuts and tighten

them alternately in order to draw the

wheel evenly against the hub and

drum.

13.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

14.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

FRONT HUB AND ROTOR

ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

When the hub and rotor assembly is

replaced, new bearings and a grease

retainer must be installed in the new

assembly.

1.
Raise the vehicle until the wheel

and tire clear the floor. Pry off the

hub cap or wheel cover, and remove

the wheel and tire from the hub and

rotor assembly.

2.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-

move the caliper from the rotor and

wire it to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

3.
Remove the grease cap from the

hub.
Remove the cotter pin, nut lock,

adjusting nut, and flat washer from

the spindle; then, remove the outer

bearing cone and roller assembly,

(Fig. 2).

4.
Pull the hub and rotor off the

spindle.

5.
Remove the protective coating

from the new hub and rotor with car-

buretor degreaser.

6. Grease and install the inner

bearing cone and roller assembly in

the inner bearing cup. Apply a light

film of grease on the grease retainerprocarmanuals.com

03-12-08

Wheels And Tires

03-12-08

Tool -
7
775 - AH

F1443-A

FIG.
18
— Installing Grease

Retainer
and install the grease retainer.

7.
Install the new hub and rotor as-

sembly to the wheel spindle. Keep the

hub centered on the spindle to prevent

damage to the grease retainer.

8. Install the outer bearing cone

and roller assembly and the flat wash-

er on the spindle; then, install the ad-

justing nut.

9. Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications as detailed in Group 2.

10.
Position the wheel and tire on

the new hub and rotor. Install the

wheel hub nuts and tighten them alter-

nately in order to draw the wheel

evenly against the hub and rotor.

11.
Adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Section 2, and install a

new cotter pin. Bend the ends of the

cotter pin around the castellations of

the nut lock to prevent interference

with the radio static collector in the

grease cap. Install the grease cap.

12.
Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

13.
Before driving the vehicle,

pump the brake pedal several times to

obtain normal brake lining to rotor

clearance and restore normal brake

pedal travel.
LIFE GUARD

TIRE REPAIRS

REPAIR OF OUTER TIRE

Outside Repairs

All outside repairs are made in the

same manner as on conventional tube-

less tires.

Inside Repairs

1.
Remove the anti-friction treat-

ment on the inside of the tire with

rubber solvent.

2.
Buff the inside area of the tire.

3.
Apply a hot cure patch only.

REPAIR OF AIR

CONTAINER

Air containers are repaired in the

same manner as conventional inner

tubes.

REPAIR OF LIFE GUARD

A damaged life guard that may

pinch the air container should be re-

place. No repairs are required for

small punctures in the life guard.procarmanuals.com

04-03-04
Rear Axles — Integral Carrier Type

04-03-04

1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire from the brake drum.

2.
Remove the Tinnerman nuts that

secure the brake drum to the axle

housing flange, and then remove the

drum from the flange.

3.
Working through the hole pro-

vided in each axle shaft flange, re-

move the nuts that secure the wheel

bearing retainer plate. Then pull the

axle shaft assembly out of the axle

housing (Fig. 2). The brake backing

plate must, not be dislodged. Install

one nut to hold the plate in place after

the axle shaft is removed.

4.
If the rear wheel bearing is to be

replaced, loosen the inner retainer

ring by nicking it deeply with a cold

chisel in several places (Fig. 3). It will

then slide off easily.

5.
Remove the bearing from the

axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.

4 or 5. If the push-puller operation

shown in Fig. 5 is used, be sure that

the puller arms contact the flat sur-

face of the axle shaft flange rather

than the bolt heads. Also with this

method, be careful not to damage or

burr the oil seal journal as the bearing

breaks loose.

6. Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-

placed the oil seal must be replaced.

Remove the seal with the tools shown

in Fig. 8. Soak new oil seals in SAE

10 oil for 1/2 hour before installing.

7.
Inspect the machined surfaces of

the axle shaft and the axle housing for

rough spots or other irregularities

which would affect the sealing action

of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft

splines for burrs, wear or damage.

Carefully remove any burrs or rough

spots.
Replace worn or damaged

parts.

8. Lightly coat wheel bearing bores

with axle lubricant.

9. Place the retainer plate on the

axle shaft, and press the new wheel

bearing on the shaft with the tool

shown in Fig. 4 or 5. The bearing

should seat firmly against the shaft

shoulder. Do not attempt to press on

both the bearing and the inner retain-

er ring at the same time.

10.
Using the bearing installation

tool, press the bearing inner retainer

ring on the shaft until the retainer

seats firmly against the bearing.

11.
Wipe all lubricant from the in-

side of the axle housing in the area of

the oil seal before installing the new

seal.

12.
Wipe a small amount of oil res-

istant sealer on the outer edge of the

seal before it is installed. Do not put

sealer on the sealing lip.

13.
Rear wheel oil seals with syn-
thetic sealing elements have been in-

corporated in production. However,

only leather seals will be used as re-

placements for the synthetic sealing

element seals. Install the new oil seal

with the tools shown in Fig. 8. Instal-

lation without use of the proper tool

will distort the seal and cause leakage.

Be sure the new seal has been soaked

in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour.

14.
Carefully slide the axle shaft

into the housing so that the rough

forging of the shaft will not damage

the oil seal. Start the axle splines into

the side gear, and push the shaft in

until the bearing bottoms in the housing.

15.
Install the bearing retainer plate

on the mounting bolts at the axle

housing, and install the attaching nuts.

Torque the nuts to specifications.

16.
Install the brake drum and the

drum retaining nuts.

17.
Install the wheel and tire on the

drum, and install the wheel cover.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

OF DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

Replacement of the pinion oil seal

involves removal and installation of

only the pinion shaft nut and the uni-

versal joint flange. However, this op-

eration disturbs the pinion bearing
preload, and this preload must be

carefully reset when assembling.

1.
Raise the vehicle and install safe-

ty stands. Remove the rear wheels and

brake drums.

2.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 14). Dis-

connect the drive shaft from the axle

U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid

dropping the loose universal joint

bearing cups. Hold the cups on the

spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission leak-

age.
Refer to the transmission group

for the appropriate tool.

3.
Install an in-lb torque wrench on

the pinion nut Fig. 6. Record the tor-

que required to maintain rotation of

the pinion shaft through several revo-

lutions. \

4.
While holding the flange with the

tool shown in Fig. 9, remove the inte-

gral pinion nut and washer.

5.
Clean the pinion bearing retainer

around the oil seal. Place a drain pan

under the seal, or raise the front of

the vehicle higher than the rear.

KJ
E
I582-A
Tool - 1175-AB

and T50T-100-A

^___ or
J
775-
AE

Torque Wrench

^ mm i e
icot
A

E 1681-A

FIG. 6—Checking Pinion FiG 7_Removing
pjnjon
Sea,

Bearing Preload

,Tool-T58L-101-A or U75-AE

Tool-T50T-100-A

REMOVAL
Tool-60K-1177-B

or 1177-BorC

INSTALLATION E1214-D

FIG. 8—Removing and Installing Axle Shaft Sealprocarmanuals.com

07-01-04
General Transmission Service

07-01-04

taching bolts to the proper torque. If

necessary, replace the gasket.

Check the fluid filler tube connec-

tion at the transmission case or pan.

If leakage is found here, install a new

O-ring or tighten the fitting to the

specified torque.

Check the fluid lines and fittings

between the transmission and the

cooler in the radiator tank for loose-

ness,
wear, or damage. If leakage can-

not be stopped by tightening a fitting,

replace the damaged parts.

Check the engine coolant in the ra-

diator. If transmission fluid is present

in the coolant, the cooler in the radia-

tor is probably leaking.

The cooler can be further checked

for leaks by disconnecting the lines

from the cooler fittings and applying

50-75 psi air pressure to the fittings.

Remove the radiator cap to relieve the

pressure build at the exterior of the oil

cooler tank. If the cooler is leaking

and will not hold this pressure the

cooler must be replaced. Cooler re-

placement is described in the Cooling

System Section of Group 11.

If leakage is found at either the

downshift control lever shaft or the

manual lever shaft, replace either or

both seals.

Inspect the pipe plug on the left

side of the transmission case at the

front. If the plug shows leakage, tor-

que the plug to specifications. If tight-

ening does not stop the leaks, replace

the plug. On a C6 transmission, a TV

pressure plug is also provided on the

right rear side of the case.

When converter drain plugs leak,

remove drain plugs with a six-point

wrench. Coat the threads with FoMo-

Co Perfect Seal Sealing Compound or

its equivalent, and install the plugs.

Torque the drain plugs to specifica-

tion. Fluid leakage from the converter

housing may be caused by engine oil

leaking past the rear main bearing or

from oil gallery plugs, or power steer-

ing oil leakage from steering system.

Be sure to determine the exact cause

of the leak before repair procedures

are started.

Oil-soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes

premixed at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon

of dye powder to 1/2 pint of transmis-

sion fluid have proved helpful in locat-

ing the source of the fluid leakage.

Such dyes may be used to determine

whether an engine oil or transmission

fluid leak is present or if the fluid in

the oil cooler leaks into the engine

coolant system. A black light, how-

ever, must be used with the fluorescent

dye solution.
DISHED OR

FLAT WASHER

" O.D.,
a" STEEL PLATE

5/8"X \W,

DRILL TO SUIT
HEX. HEAD SCREW

3/8"-24 X Vl

HEX. NUT W—
24

WELD

TOGETHER

WING
NUT

>/2"_13
THREAD

CHAIN,
10"
LONG
RUBBER PLUG

1
Vi" DIA. X 2"

LONG Vl"

HOLE THRU

APPROXIMATELY

40 DUROMETER
FLAT WASHER

Vs" O.D.

PLUG

VALVE
STANDARD BOLT

W-13
X 4Vl"

LONG SQUARE

THREAD
END

REMOVE HEAD

AND WELD
TO

WASHER

STANDARD 1/8" FITTING-87971-S FOR

RETAPPED DRAIN PLUG THREADS-USE

1/4" OVERSIZE FITTING-87973-S

D 1067-B
WELD TOGETHER

SECURELY—MUST

NOT LEAK

FIG. 2—Converter Leak Checking Tool

CONVERTER LEAKAGE

CHECK

If there are indications that the

welds on the torque converter are

leaking, the converter will have to be

removed and the following check

made before the unit is replaced.

A leak checking tool (Fig. 2) can be

made from standard parts. The tool

can be used to check all converters.

1.
Install the plug in the converter

(Fig. 3) and expand it by tightening

the wing nut. Attach the safety chains.

2.
Install the air valve in one of the

drain plug holes.

3.
Introduce air pressure into the

converter. Check the pressure with a

tire gauge and adjust it to 20 psi.

4.
Place the converter in a tank of

water. Observe the weld areas for

bubbles. If no bubbles are observed, it

may be assumed that the welds are

not leaking.

ENGINE IDLE SPEED CHECK

Check and, if necessary, adjust the

engine idle speed, using the procedure

given in Group 10.

If the idle speed is too low, the en-

gine will run roughly. An idle speed

that is too high will cause the vehicle

to creep, have harsh engagements and

harsh closed-throttle downshifts.
ANTI-STALL DASHPOT

CLEARANCE CHECK

After the engine idle speed has been

properly adjusted, check the anti-stall

dashpot clearance. Follow the proce-

dure given in Group 10 for checking

and adjusting this clearance.

MANUAL LINKAGE CHECKS

Correct manual linkage adjustment

is necessary to position the manual

valve for proper fluid pressure direc-

tion to the different transmission com-

ponents. Improperly adjusted manual

Tire Pressure Gauge

D1921-A

FIG. 3—Converter Leak Checking

Tool Installationprocarmanuals.com