remove seats FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-02-39
Brake System

02-02-39

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING

Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum

that is excessively scored or shows a

total indicator runout of over 0.007

inch should be turned down. Remove

only enough stock to eliminate the

scores and true up the drum. The refi-

nished diameter must not exceed 0.060

inch oversize.

Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).

If the drum diameter is less than

0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^

standard lining may be installed. If

the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060

inch oversize after refinishing, oversize

lining must be installed.

After a drum is turned down, wipe

the refinished surface with a cloth

soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If

one drum is turned down, the opposite

drum on the same axle should also be

cut down to the same size.

ROTOR REFINISHING

Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,

FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended

tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.

The step-by-step resurfacing procedure

provided with the tool must be ad-

hered to.

The finished braking surfaces of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-

ing, and the surface finish of the brak-

ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro

inches. The minimum limiting dimen-

sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from

the inboard bearing cup to the out-

board rotor face and from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face

must be observed when removing ma-

terial from the rotor braking surfaces.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental, the limiting dimensions are to

be measured with a ball and gage bar

(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).

BRAKE SHOE RELINING

Brake linings that are worn to with-

in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are

less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-

ing) or have been contaminated with

brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-

placed. Failure to replace worn linings

will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they

must also be replaced on the wheel on

the opposite side of the vehicle.

Inspect brake shoes for distortion,

cracks, or looseness. If this condition

exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do

not attempt to repair a defective brake

shoe.

1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly

in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs

or rough spots from the shoes.

2.
Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-

ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-

size,
standard lining may be installed.

If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches

oversize, oversize lining should be in-

stalled.

3.
Position the new lining on the

shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and

secure the rivets, working alternately

towards each end. Replacement lin-

ings are ground and no further grind-

ing is required.

4.
Check the clearance between the

shoe and lining. The lining must seat

tightly against the shoe with not more

than 0.008 inch clearance between any

two rivets.

RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover

and diaphragm. Pour out any brake

fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-

card the old brake fluid.

2.*
Remove the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-

inder (Figs. 40 and 41).

3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-

quired.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

remove the snap ring from the retain-

ing groove at the rear of the master

cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the

push rod and the primary piston as-

sembly from the master cylinder bore.

Do not remove the screw that retains

the primary return spring retainer, re-

turn spring, primary cup and protec-

tor on the primary piston. This assem-

bly is factory pre-adjusted and should

not be disassembled.

5.
Remove the secondary piston as-

sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube

seats,
outlet check valves and outlet

SECONDARY SYSTEM

BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166

GASKET-2167

MASTER CYLINDER -2155

SNAP RING -7821

BOOT

PUSH ROD

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2169

tTUBE SEAT-

2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2A502

• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES

fNOT SERVICED

•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY

H 1499-B

FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-02-02
Suspension

03-02-02

COMPONENT INDEX

REAR SPRING

Disassembly
and
Overhaul

Removal
and
Installation

REAR SUSPENSION

Description

REAR SUSPENSION LOWER
ARM

Removal
and
Installation

REAR SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM

Removal
and
Installation

SPRING LEAVES
AND
TIE-BOLT

Removal
and
Installation

STABILIZER

Removal
and
Installation

TRACK
BAR

Removal
and
Installation

UPPER
ARM
-
REMOVED

Removal
and
Installation

UPPER
ARM
SHAFT AND/OR BUSHING

Removal
and
Installation

UPPER BALL JOINT

Removal
and
Installation
MODEL APPLICATION
All
Models
Ford

N/A

02-23

02-02

02-24

02-25

N/A

02-11

02-25

N/A

N/A

02-08
Mercury
N/A

02-23

02-02

02-24

02-25

N/A

02-11

02-25

N/A

N/A

02-08
Meteor
N/A

02-23

02-02

02-24

02-25

N/A

02-11

02-25

N/A

N/A

02-08
Cougar
N/A

02-25

02-04

N/A

N/A

N/A

02-11

N/A

N/A

02-09

02-08
Fairlane
N/A

02-25

02-04

N/A

N/A

N/A

02-11

N/A

N/A

02-09

02-08
Falcon
N/A

02-25

02-04

N/A

N/A

N/A

02-11

N/A

N/A

02-09

02-08
Montego
N/A

02-25

02-04

N/A

N/A

N/A

02-11

N/A

N/A

02-09

02-08
Mustang
N/A

02-25

02-04

N/A

N/A

N/A

02-11

N/A

N/A

02-09

02-08
Lincoln-
Continental
02-28

02-26

02-04

N/A

N/A

02-29

N/A

N/A

02-27

N/A

02-10
Thunderbird
N/A

02-23

02-02

02-24

02-25

N/A

02-11

02-25

N/A

N/A

02-08
Continental-
Mark III
N/A

02-23

02-02

02-24

02-25

N/A

02-11

02-25

N/A

N/A

02-08

A page number indicates that
the
item
is
for the
vehicle listed
at
the
head
of
the
column.

N/A indicates that
the
item
is
not
applicable
to
the
vehicle listed.

DESCRIPTION

FRONT SUSPENSION

Each front wheel rotates
on a

spindle.
The
upper
and
lower ends
of

the spindle
are
attached
to
upper
and

lower ball joints which
are
mounted
to

an upper
and
lower
arm
respectively.

The upper
arm
pivots
on a
bushing

and shaft assembly which
is
bolted
to

the frame.
The
lower
arm
pivots
on a

bolt
in the
front crossmember (Figs.
1,

2
and 3). A
coil spring seats between

the lower (upper
on
Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon, Montego
and
Mustang)
arm

and
the top of the
spring housing.
A

double action shock absorber
is
bolted

to
the arm and the top of the
spring

housing.
REAR SUSPENSION

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD
AND

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

Each rear wheel,
hub, and
brake

drum assembly
is
bolted
to the
rear

axle shaft flange.
The
axle shaft
as-

sembly rotates
in the
rear axle hous-

ing.

The rear axle housing
is
suspended

from
the
frame
by a
coil spring
and

shock absorber
at
each side
of the ve-

hicle
and by
three arms
(one
upper

and
two
lower) which pivot
in the

frame members
(Fig.
4).

Each coil spring
is
mounted
be-

tween
a
lower seat, which
is
welded
to

the axle housing,
and an
upper seat

which
is
integral with
the
frame.
The upper
end
of
the
rear shock
ab-

sorber
is
attached
to the
spring upper

seat;
the
lower
end is
bolted
to a

bracket
on the
axle housing.

The upper suspension
arm
attaches

to
the
right side
of the
axle housing

through
an
eccentric pivot bolt
and a

bracket which
is
welded
to the top of

the housing.
The
forward
end of the

arm
is
connected
by a
pivot bolt
to

the frame crossmember.

Each lower suspension
arm
attaches

to
one end of the
axle housing

through
a
pivot bolt
and a
bracket

which
is
welded
to the
underside
of

the housing.
The
forward
end of the

arm
is
connected
by a
pivot bolt
to

the frame side member.

A track
bar is
connected between

the upper
arm
bracket
on the
axle

housing
and a
mounting bracket
on

the left frame side rail.
procarmanuals.com

03-02-24

Suspension

03-02-24

LOCK NUT

INSULATOR

NG

NUT

MOUNTING STUD

WASHER

LOCK WASHER

FIG. 31—Rear Shock Absorber Mounting
F1486-A

TRACK BAR

MOUNTING

STUD AXLE

VENT
SHOCK

ABSORBER

MOUNTING

BRACKET
SHOCK

ABSORBER

MOUNTING

BRACKET

V-V.

FIG. 32—Removing or Installing Rear Spring—Typical
COIL SPRING

F1438-A

Place jack stands under the frame side

rails.

2.
Disconnect the lower studs of the

two rear shock absorbers from the

mounting brackets on axle housing.
3.
Lower the hoist and axle housing

until the coil springs are released (Fig.

32).

4.
Remove the springs and the insu-

lators from the vehicle.
Installation

1.
Position the spring in the upper

and lower seats with an insulator be-

tween each seat and the spring.

2.
Raise the hoist and axle housing

with the spring in position and con-

nect the lower studs of the rear shock

absorbers to the mounting brackets on

the axle housing. Install the attaching

nuts,
and torque to specifications.

3.
Remove the jack stands and

lower the vehicle.

REAR SUSPENSION

LOWER ARM

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and

place jack stands under the frame side

rails.

2.
Remove the attaching nut and

bolt from the frame track bar mount-

ing bracket and disconnect the bar

from the stud (Fig. 4).

3.
Lower the axle enough to relieve

spring pressure.

4.
Support axle under differential

pinion nose as well as under axle.

5.
Remove the lower arm pivot bolt

and nut from the axle bracket. Then,

disengage the lower arm from the

bracket.

6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut

from the frame bracket and remove

the lower arm from the vehicle.

Installation

The rear suspension lower arms are

not interchangeable. The lower arm

for the left side can be identified by

notches in the bushing flange (Fig. 4).

The right arm does not have the

notches.

1.
Position the lower arm in the

bracket on the frame side rail. Install

a new pivot bolt and new nut (Fig.

33).
Do not tighten the nut at this

time.

2.
Position the lower arm to the

axle bracket and install a new bolt

and new nut (Fig. 33). Do not tighten

the nut at this time.

3.
Raise the axle.

4.
Install alignment spacers be-

tween the rear axle and frame (Fig. 3,

Part 3-1). Then, torque the lower armprocarmanuals.com

03-02-27

Suspension

03-02-27

MAJOR
REPAIR OPERATIONS

FRONT
SUSPENSION UPPER

ARM
BUSHINGS—ARM

REMOVED

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the nuts and washers

from both ends of the upper arm inner

shaft.

2.
Install Tool T65P-3044-A1 on

the inner shaft and place Tool T65P-

3044-A3 inside the upper arm around

the inner shaft (Fig. 36).

F1440-A

FIG.
36—Removing Upper Arm

Bushings

3.
Position the upper arm in an

arbor press on Tool T65P-3044-A4

(Fig. 36), and press the lower bushing

out of the upper arm.

4.
Remove the bushing from the

inner shaft; turn the assembly over

and remove the bushing from the

other side of the arm. It may be nec-

essary to remove Tool T65P-3044-A1

from the inner shaft and remove the

shaft from the arm to remove the

bushing from the shaft. Then, install

the tool on the shaft and remove the

other bushing.

5. Position the shaft and bushings

to the upper arm and install the bush-
ings and inner shaft in the upper arm

as shown in Fig. 37.

6. Install a washer and new nut on

each end of the inner shaft.
PRESS
RAM

Tool—3069-AA

Tool
- T65P

3044
- A3
Tool
- T65P

3044
- A2

F1441-A

FIG.
37—Installing Upper Arm

Shaft
Bushings

LOWER
ARM OVERHAUL-

ARM
REMOVED

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Inspect the lower arm, bushings and

pivot bolt for cracks, bends, wear or

other damage. Replace the arm if nec-

essary.

1. If the ball joint requires replace-

ment, remove the rivet heads with a

chisel. Punch the remaining portion of

the rivets from the holes.

Do not wash the ball joint with sol-

vent. The solvent may attack parts

within the joint.

2.
If the bushing requires replace-

ment, press it out of the arm with

Tool 3069—details H, AA, and AA2

(Fig. 38).

3.
Apply silicone or liquid soap to

the shell of the new bushing. Place the

bushing in the arm with the flange end

(large end) of the bushing at the front

of the arm.

4.
Press the bushing into the arm

until the shoulder on the bushing shell

seats against the arm. Use tool

3069—details H, AA2, and M5 (Fig.

39).
F
1483-A

FIG.
38—Removing Lower Arm

Bushing

PRESS

RAM

1482-A

FIG.
39—Installing Lower Arm

Bushing

5.
If the ball joint was removed, in-

stall the new joint using the parts sup-

plied in the ball joint kit. Torque the

nuts to specification. Make sure the

joint is completely filled with the spec-

ified lubricant.

UPPER
ARM OVERHAUL-

ARM
REMOVED

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Inspect the upper arm and the inner

shaft for cracks, bends or other dam-

age.
Replace the parts as required.

Replacement arms come with the

bushings, inner shaft, and ball joint

installed. If the original arm is to beprocarmanuals.com

03-07-04
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-04

12.
Stop the engine, and check the

control valve and hose connections for

fluid leaks. Correct the cause of any

leaks.

13.
Check the fluid level, and refill

the reservoir if necessary.

14.
With the engine running check

the position of the steering wheel

when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position.Do not make

any adjustments until toe-in is

checked.

15.
Keep the engine running, and

check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer-

ing wheel position is not correct make

all necessary adjustments (Part 3-1) at

the spindle connecting rod sleeves.

16.
Check the effort to turn the

wheels in both directions. The effort

should be about equal in both direc-

tions.

POWER CYLINDER

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the two fluid lines

from the power cylinder and allow

them to drain into a container.
CENTER LINK

POWER CYLINDER

Tool- T64P-3590-F

G 1654-A

FIG. 5—Disconnecting Power

Cylinder Stud

2.
Remove the 'pal nut, attaching

nut, washer and the insulator from the

end of the power cylinder rod.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and cas-

tellated nut that secures the power

cylinder stud to the center link.

4.
Disconnect the power cylinder

stud from the center link as shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Remove the insulator sleeve and

washer from the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.
6. Inspect the tube fittings and the

seats in the power cylinder for nicks,

burrs or damage. Replace the seats in

the cylinder or the tubes as required.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the washer, sleeve and the

insulator on the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.

2.
Extend the rod as far as possible.

Insert the rod in the bracket on the

frame and compress the rod as neces-

sary to insert the stud in the -center

link. Secure the stud with a castellat-

ed, nut and a cotter pin.

3.
Secure the power cylinder rod

with an insulator, washer, nut and a

pal nut.

4.
Connect each of the two fluid

lines to its respective port in the cylin-

der.

5.
Fill the reservoir to the correct

level.

6. Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system. Stop

the engine.

7.
Check the fluid level and fill as

necessary. Install the dipstick and cap.

8. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

CONTROL VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Wipe all fluid and loose dirt

from the outside of the control valve.

2.
Remove the centering spring cap

from the valve housing (Fig. 6).

When holding the control valve for

disassembly, use a soft-jawed vise, and

clamp the valve only around the sleeve

flange to prevent damage to the hous-

ing, spool, or sleeve.

3.
Remove the nut from the end of

the valve spool bolt. Remove the

washers, spacer, centering spring,

adapter, and bushing from the bolt

and the valve housing.

4.
Remove the two bolts that hold

the valve housing and the sleeve to-

gether, and separate the housing from

the sleeve.

5.
Remove the plug from the valve

sleeve.

6. Push the valve spool out of the

centering spring end of the valve hous-

ing, and remove the seal from the

spool.

7.
Remove the spacer, bushing, and

seal from the sleeve end of the valve

housing.
8. Drive the stop pin out of the

travel regulator stop with a punch and

hammer (Fig. 7). Pull the head of the

valve spool bolt tightly against the

travel regulator stop before driving the

pin out of the stop.

9. Turn the travel regulator stop

counterclockwise in the valve sleeve to

remove the stop from the sleeve.

10.
Remove the valve spool bolt,

spacer, and rubber washer from the

travel regulator stop.

11.
Remove the rubber boot and

clamp from the valve sleeve.

12.
Slide the bumper, spring, and

ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve,

and remove the ball stud socket from

the sleeve.

13.
After removing the return port

hose seat, remove the return port re-

lief valve.

14.
After removing the spring plug

and O-ring, remove the reaction limit-

ing valve (Fig. 8).

Tube Seat Replacement

If a hose seat is worn or damaged it

should be replaced. It can be removed

with an Easy-Out tool, or by using a

bolt of appropriate size as a puller.
1.
Tap the existing hole in the hose

seat, using a starting tap of suitable

size.
Be sure to remove all metal chips

from the hose seat port after tapping.

2.
Place a nut and large flat washer

on a bolt of the same size as the

tapped hole. The washer must be large

enough to cover the hose seat port.

3.
Insert the bolt in the tapped

hole,
and using the nut as a puller, re-

move the hose seat.

4.
Place a new hose seat in the

port, and thread a bolt of suitable size

into the port. Tighten the bolt enough

to bottom the seat in the port.

ASSEMBLY

Before assembling the control valve,

coat all parts except the seals with

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Coat

the seals with lubricant COAZ-

19553-A.

1.
Install the reaction limiting

valve, the spring, and the plug.

2.
Install the return port relief valve

and the hose seat.

3.
Insert one of the ball stud seats

(flat end first) into the ball stud sock-

et, and insert the threaded end of the

ball stud into the socket.procarmanuals.com

03-07-06
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-06

VALVE HOUSING

VALVE SPOOL

G
1659-
A

FIG. 70—Inserting Valve Spool

13.
Pick up the housing, and slide

the spool back and forth in the hous-

ing to check for free movement.

14.
Place the valve sleeve on the

housing so that the ball stud is on the

same side of the housing as the ports

for the two power cylinder lines. In-

stall the two bolts in the sleeve, and

torque them to specifications.

15.
Place the adapter on the cen-

tering spring end of the housing, and

install the bushing, washers, spacers,

and centering spring on the valve

spool bolt.

16.
Compress the centering spring,

and install the nut on the bolt. Tight-

en the nut snug (90-100 in-lbs); then

loosen it not more than 1/4 turn (Fig.

11).
Make sure that the nut turns (90

degrees) on the threads of bolt. Exces-

sive tightening of the nut may break

the stop pin at the travel regulator

stop.

TIGHTEN NUT SNUG

(90-100 IN -LBS) THEN

LOOSEN % TURN ON

THREADS OF BOLT

ADJUSTING

NUT

CENTERING SPRING

ADAPTER

G 1034 -C

FIG. 11—Adjusting Centering

Spring

17.
Move the ball stud back and

forth in the sleeve slot to check the

spool for free movement. See Part

3-13 for the specified travel. Apply
COAZ-19553-A (silicone) grease at

the sealing areas.

18.
Lubricate the two cap attaching

bolts.
Install the centering spring cap

on the valve housing, and torque the

two cap bolts to specification.

19.
Install the nut on the ball stud

so that the valve can be positioned in

a vise as shown in Fig. 12. Then push

forward on the cap end of the valve to

check the valve spool for free move-

ment.

20.
Turn the valve around in the

vise,
and push forward on the sleeve

end to check the spool for free move-

ment.

PUSH FORWARD TO CHECK

VALVE SPOOL MOVEMENT

G 1660-A

FIG. 12—Inspecting Valve Spool

Movement

POWER CYLINDER SEAL

REMOVAL

1.
Clamp the power cylinder in a

vise,
and remove the snap ring from

the end of the cylinder. Be careful not

to distort or crack the cylinder in the

vise.

2.
Pull the piston rod out all the

way to remove the scraper, bushing,

and seals. If the seals cannot be re-
moved in this manner, remove them

from the cylinder with a sharp pick.

Take care, when using a pick, not to

damage the shaft or seal seat.

INSTALLATION

When replacing the power cylinder

seals,
install all of the parts supplied

in the repair kit for the cylinder being

repaired.

1.
Coat the new seals with lubricant

COAZ-19553-A and place the parts

(Fig. 13) on the piston rod which has

been coated with the same grease.

2.
Push the rod in all the way, and

install the parts in the cylinder with a

deep socket slightly smaller than the

cylinder opening (Fig. 14).

15/16"
O.D. X6" STEEL

ELECTRICAL CONDUIT

POWER

CYLINDER

G 1662-A

FIG. 14—Installing Power

Cylinder Seals

POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

Refer to Group 3-10, Section 3 for

detailed instructions.

INSERT

RUBBER WIPER

SCRAPER

SEATS'

FIG. 73—Power Cylinder
SNAP RING

G 1661-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-08-06

Ford Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-08-06

VALVE HOUSING

7W-T65P

C1239 -A

FIG. 7—Removing or Installing Lock

Nut

drain the remaining fluid from the

gear.

2.
Mount the gear in a soft-jawed

vise.

3.
Remove the lock nut and the

brass washer from the adjusting screw.

4.
Turn the input shaft to either

stop then, turn it back approximately

1 3/4 turns to center the gear.

5.
Remove the two sector shaft

cover attaching screws and the
identif-

ication tag.

6. Tap the lower end of the sector

shaft with a soft-hammer to loosen it,

then lift the cover and shaft from the

housing as an assembly. Discard the

O-ring.

7.
Turn the sector shaft cover coun-

terclockwise off the adjuster screw.

8. Remove the four valve housing

attaching bolts. Lift the valve housing

from the steering gear housing while

holding the piston to prevent it from

rotating off the worm shaft. Remove

the valve housing and the lube passage

O-rings and discard them.

9. Stand the valve body and piston

on end with the piston end down. Ro-

tate the input shaft counterclockwise

out of the piston allowing the ball

bearings to drop into the piston.

10.
Place a cloth over the open end

of the piston and turn it upside down

to remove the balls.

11.
Remove the two screws that at-

tach the ball guide clamp (Fig. 6) to

the ball nut and remove the clamp and

the guides.

12.
Install the valve body assembly

in the holding fixture (do not clamp

in a vise) and remove the lock nut and

the attaching nut as shown in Fig. 7.

13.
Carefully slide the input shaft,

worm and valve assembly out of the

valve housing. Due to the close diame-

trical clearance between the spool and

housing, the slightest cocking of the

spool may cause it to jam in the hous-

ing.

14.
Remove the shim from the

valve housing bore.
OIL SEAL

INLET TUBE SEAT

OUTLET TUBE SEAT
DUST SEAL

G1549-A

FIG.
8—Valve Housing Disassembled

Too/-T<

Tool-

T57L-500-A ,^^^

G1364-A

FIG. 9—Removing Bearing and Oil

Seal

PARTS REPAIR

OR REPLACEMENT

Valve Housing

1.
Remove the dust seal (Fig. 8)

from the rear of the valve housing

with Tools T59L-100-B and T58L-

101-A and discard the seal.

2.
Remove the snap ring from the

valve housing.

3.
Turn the fixture to place the

valve housing in an inverted position.

4.
Insert special tool in the valve

body assembly opposite the seal end

and gently tap the bearing and seal

out of the housing as shown in Fig.

9. Discard the seal. Caution must be

exercised when inserting and removing

the tool to prevent damage to the

valve bore in the housing.

5.
Remove the fluid inlet and outlet

tube seats with an EZ-out if they are

damaged.
Press Ra
Tool-

T65P-3524-A7

G1363-A

FIG. 10—Installing Valve Housing

Bearing

6. Coat the fluid inlet and outlet

tube seats with vaseline and position

them in the housing. Install and tight-

en the tube nuts to press the seats to

the proper location.

7.
Coat the bearing and seal surface

of the housing with a film of vaseline.

8. Position the bearing in the valve

housing. Seat the bearing in the valve

housing with the tool shown in Fig.

10.
Make sure that the bearing is

free to rotate.

9. Dip the new oil seal in gear lu-

bricant; then, place it in the housing

with the metal side of the seal facing

outward. Drive the seal into the hous-

ing until the outer edge of seal does

not quite clear the snap ring groove

(Fig. 11).

10.
Place the snap ring in the hous-

ing; then, drive on the ring with the

tool shown in Fig. 11 until the snap

ring seats in its groove to properly lo-

cate the seal.procarmanuals.com

03-10-07
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-07

15.
Place small amounts of vaseline

on the pump housing plate to hold the

cover gasket in place. Install the gas-

ket on the pump housing plate.

16.
Insert the pressure plate springs

into the pockets in the pump valve as-

sembly. Vaseline may be placed in the

spring pockets to hold the springs in

position (Fig. 17).

17.
Using Tool T69P-3B586-A,

plug the intake hole in the housing

(Fig. 17).

18.
Lubricate the inside of the

housing and the housing cover seal

with C1AZ-19582-A lubricant. Fabri-

cate two studs (3/8-16x1.55 ) to be

used as positioning guides. Install one

in the housing plate bolt hole closest

to the drain hole and one in the bolt

hole diametrically opposite.

19.
Align the small diameter lube

hole in the housing rim with the lube

hole in the housing plate.

20.
Install the housing, applying an

even, downward pressure. The pres-
sure plate springs must not be jarred

and moved out of position. Remove

the guide studs.

21.
Install the housing retaining

bolts finger tight.

22.
Remove Tool T69P-3B586-A.

23.
Torque the retaining bolts even-

ly to 28-32 ft-lbs until the housing

flange contacts the gasket.

24.
Install a 3/8x16 hex head

screw, finger tight, into the end of the

rotor shaft. Using a torque wrench,

check the input torque of the shaft

(Fig. 18). The torque should not ex-

ceed 15 in-lbs. If it does, loosen the

retaining bolts slightly, rotate the

rotor shaft, retorque the bolts evenly

and again check the shaft torque. The

pump must not be used if the shaft

torque exceeds 15 in-lbs.

25.
Release the pin in the bench

holding fixture and agitate the pump

assembly back and forth. If there is a

rattle, the pressure plate springs have
fallen out of their seats and must be

reinstalled.

26.
Install the reservoir O-ring on

the housing plate being careful not to

twist the O-ring. Apply vaseline to the

seal and to the ID of the reservoir

flange.

27.
Install the reservoir, aligning

the notch in the reservoir flange with

the notch in the OD of the pump

housing plate and bushing assembly.

Using only a plastic or rubber ham-

mer, tap at the rear on the outer cor-

ners of the reservoir to avoid damage.

28.
Inspect the assembly to deter-

mine if the reservoir is seated on the

housing plate.

29.
Install the service identification

tag on the outlet valve fitting.

30.
Install the outlet valve fitting

nut and torque to 43-47 ft-lbs.

31.
Invert the pump assembly.

32.
If the pulley was removed, in-

stall the correct pulley using Tool

T65P-3A733-A.procarmanuals.com

04-02-04
Rear Axle — Removable Carrier Type
04-02-04

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

REAR AXLE SHAFT, WHEEL

BEARING AND OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

The rear axle shafts, wheel bear-

ings,
and oil seal can be replaced

without removing the differential as-

sembly from the axle housing.

REMOVAL OF

AXLE SHAFT

Synthetic wheel bearing seals are

used in production only. Removal and

insertion of rear axle shafts must be

performed with caution. The entire

length of the shaft (including spline)

up to the seal journal must pass

through the seal without cutting of the

seal element during axle removal or

installation will result in early seal fai-

lure.
Leather seals only will be used as

service replacement for synthetic

wheel bearing seals.

1.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire from the brake drum.

2.
Remove the nuts that secure the

brake drum to the axle shaft flange,

then remove the drum from flange.

3.
Working through the hole pro-

vided in each axle shaft flange, re-

move the nuts that secure the wheel

bearing retainer plate. Then pull the

axle shaft assembly out of the axle

housing (Fig. 4). The brake backing

plate must not be dislodged. Install

one nut to hold the plate in place after

the axle shaft is removed.

Too/-4235-C

E1032-D

FIG. 4—Removing Axle Shaft

REMOVAL OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvents.

Removal of the wheel bearings from

the axle shaft makes them unfit for

further use.

1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-

cury or Meteor, if the rear wheel

bearing is to be replaced, loosen the

inner retainer ring by nicking it deeply

with a cold chisel in several places

(Fig. 5). It will then slide off easily.
E 1731-A

FIG. 5—Removing Rear Wheel

Bearing Retainer Ring

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor mo-

dels,
it is necessary to first drill a 1/4

inch hole not more than 5/16 inch

deep in the retainer ring surface bef-

ore using the cold chisel.

2.
Remove the bearing from the

axle shaft with the tool shown in Fig.

6 or Fig. 7.

3.
Whenever a rear axle shaft is re-

placed, the oil seal must be replaced.

Remove the seal with Tool 1175-AB

and a slide hammer (Fig. 8). If new

leather-type wheel bearing service

seals are to be installed, soak new oil

seals in SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour

before installing.

INSTALLATION OF REAR

WHEEL BEARING AND

SEAL

1.
Inspect the machined surface of

the axle shaft and the axle housing for

rough spots or other irregularities

which would affect the sealing action

of the oil seal. Check the axle shaft

splines for burrs, wear or twist. Care-

fully remove any burrs or rough spots.

Replace worn or damaged parts.

2.
Lightly coat wheel bearing bores

with axle lubricant.

3.
Place the retainer plate on the

axle shaft, and press the new wheel

bearing on the shaft with the tool

shown in Fig. 6 or Fig. 9. Do not at-

tempt to press on both the bearing

and the inner retainer ring at the same

time.

4.
Using the bearing installation

tool (Tool 4621-A or 4234-4), press

the bearing inner retainer ring on the

shaft until the retainer seats firmly

against the bearing. On Ford, Mercu-

ry, or Meteor models, before assem-

bling the retainer onto the axle shaft,

the shaft journal and the inside di-
ameter of the retainer should be wiped

clean with a dry cloth. These parts

must not be degreased or lubricated.

5. Rear wheel oil seals with synthe-

tic sealing elements have been incor-

porated in production only. However,

leather seals only will be used as re-

placements for the synthetic sealing

elements. Install the new oil seal with

the tools shown in Figs. 10 and 12. Be

sure the new seal has been soaked in

SAE 10 oil for 1/2 hour before in-

stalling it. Wipe a small amount of oil

resistant sealer on the outer edge of

the seal before it is installed. Do not

put sealer on the sealing lip.

INSTALLATION OF

AXLE SHAFT

1.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into

the housing so that the rough forging

of the shaft will not damage the oil

seal. Start the axle splines into the

side gear, and push the shaft in until

the bearing bottoms in the housing.

2.
Install the bearing retainer plate

and the nuts that secure it. Torque the

nuts to specifications.

3.
Install the brake drum and the

drum attaching (Tinnerman) nuts.

4.
Install the wheel and tire on the

drum. Install the wheel cover.

DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

COLLAPSIBLE SPACER

Synthetic seals must not be cleaned,

soaked or washed in cleaning solvent.

The drive pinion oil seal can be re-

placed without removing the differen-

tial carrier assembly from the axle

housing.

1.
Raise the vehicle and install

safety stands. Remove both rear wheels

and brake drums.

2.
Make scribe marks on the drive

shaft end yoke and the axle U-joint

flange to insure proper position of the

drive shaft at assembly (Fig. 11). Dis-

connect the drive shaft from the axle

U-joint flange. Be careful to avoid

dropping the loose universal joint

bearing cups. Hold the cups on the

spider with tape. Mark the cups so

that they will be in their original posi-

tion in relation to the flange when

they are assembled. Remove the drive

shaft from the transmission extension

housing. Install an oil seal replacer

tool in the transmission extension

housing to prevent transmission fluidprocarmanuals.com