drain bolt FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G DOHC Engine Workshop Manual

Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 to 10466 to 77
Connecting rod (big-end bearing cap) bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 1711 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 85º
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5833 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 80º
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6341 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 to 9261 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 127 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 1912 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2817 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 to 2213 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4030
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle-tighten a further 90º
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 to 3927 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 to 2616 to 19
Lower timing chain guide upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Lower timing chain guide lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2818 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead
Camshaft) engine was introduced in August
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
used previously in the Sierra range. The
engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from
the crankshaft, and operate the angled valves
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves. The operation of
the cam followers is explained in Chapter 2,
Part C, but note that no rollers are fitted and
the base of each cam follower is in direct
contact with the cam profile.
The distributor is driven directly from the
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft.
The undersides of the pistons are supplied
with oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing
caps.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
pipe into the inlet manifold, where they are
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.
Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35.The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal of the camshafts.
b)Removal and servicing of the cylinder head
c)Removal of the timing chain and
sprockets.
d)Removal of the oil pump.
e)Removal of the sump.
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods.
g)Removal of the big-end bearings.
h)Removal of the engine mountings
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
j)Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals.
The following operation can only be carried out
after removing the engine from the vehicle:
a)Removal of the crankshaft and main
bearings.
4Major operations requiring
engine removal
3Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2Crankcase ventilation system -
inspection and maintenance
1General information
DOHC engine 2B•3
2B

Note:A hoist and lifting tackle will be
required.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
4On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
lid as an assembly.
5Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt securing
the hose support bracket to the left-hand side
of the cylinder head (see illustration).
6Drain the cooling system.
7To provide additional working space,
remove the radiator.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
coolant pump housing on the left-hand side of
the engine.
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
10Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold.
11Where applicable, release the coolant
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
automatic choke housing.
12On carburettor models, disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the engine management
module.
13Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.14On fuel injection models, disconnect the
vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located
at the rear right-hand side of the engine
compartment) and, where applicable, from the
air conditioning system.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply and return hoses at the
carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to
minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire
precautions.
16On fuel injection models, slowly loosen
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail, to relieve
the pressure in the fuel system before
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for
petrol spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose,
and disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
17Disconnect the throttle cable and move it
to one side.
18Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover.
19Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable, depending on
model:
Alternator.
Starter motor.
Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
Temperature gauge sender.
Cooling fan switch.
Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models).
Automatic choke heater (carburettor models).
Engine coolant temperature sensor.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
Air charge temperature sensor.
Throttle position sensor.
Fuel temperature sensor.
Fuel injectors.
20On models fitted with power steering,
unbolt the power steering pump from its
mounting bracket and move it clear of the
engine. Note that there is no need to
disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure that
the pump is adequately supported to avoid
straining them.
21On models fitted with air conditioning,
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from
its mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
engine. Do not disconnect the hoses; make
sure that the compressor is adequately
supported to avoid straining them.
22Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from theengine compartment. Note the location of the
bolts, and note the positions of the earth strap
and any wiring clips attached to the bolts (see
illustration).
23Unscrew the securing bolt, and
disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
hand side of the cylinder head.
24Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
25Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
26Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
27Remove the starter motor.
28Remove the exhaust downpipe.
29Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
disconnect the lower steering column from the
lower flexible coupling (see illustration).
30Working inside the vehicle, place a wooden
block under the clutch pedal to raise it fully
against its stop, so holding the automatic
adjuster pawl clear of the toothed quadrant.
31Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
32Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
33Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-gearbox bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate (see
illustration). Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
5Engine - removal leaving
manual gearbox in vehicle
2B•4DOHC engine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket
bolt from the cylinder head5.29 Removing the lower steering column
clamp bolt
5.33 Engine adapter plate bolt (arrowed)
5.22 Earth strap position on top engine-to-
gearbox (arrowed)
Warning: Vehicles equipped
with air conditioning:
Components of the air
conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken
on the engine and it is not always possible
to unbolt and move them aside
sufficiently, within the limits of their
flexible connecting pipes. In such a case,
the system should be discharged by a
Ford dealer or air conditioning specialist.
The refrigerant is harmless under normal
conditions but in the presence of a naked
flame (or a lighted cigarette) it forms a
highly toxic gas. Liquid refrigerant spilled
on the skin will cause frostbite. If
refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse them
with a diluted solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.

34Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate engine removal.
35Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
36To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them (see
illustration).
37Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
38Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
bolts from one side (see illustration), and
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
to allow the sump to clear the steering rack
and crossmember when pulling the engine
forwards from the gearbox.
39Gently raise the engine, then pull it
forwards to disconnect it from the gearbox.
Ensure that the gearbox is adequately
supported, and take care not to strain the
gearbox input shaft. It may be necessary to
rock the engine a little to release it from the
gearbox.
40Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the components in the engine compartment
(see illustration).Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket, as
applicable.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 23 to 29
of Section 5.
4Where applicable, remove the bolt securing
the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the left-
hand side of the cylinder block.
5Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each bolt in turn through the aperture.
6Support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
7Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Recover any
shims fitted between the sump and the
transmission when removing the lower engine-
to-transmission bolts. Where applicable, pull
the blanking plug from the adapter plate.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 38
of Section 5.
9Gently raise the engine, then pull the engine
forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission, lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the components in the engine
compartment.Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation.
Removal
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
Ensure that there is enough working room
beneath the vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips, and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
10Working inside the vehicle, place a
wooden block under the clutch pedal to raise
it fully against its stop, so holding the
automatic adjuster pawl clear of the toothed
quadrant.
11Disconnect the clutch cable from the
clutch release arm, and pass the cable
through the bellhousing.
12Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
13Unscrew the four nuts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
7Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation6Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
DOHC engine 2B•5
2B
5.38 Removing a suspension crossmember
securing bolt
5.40 Lifting the engine from the vehicle
5.37 Removing a brake line securing clip
from the suspension crossmember5.36 Remove the engine mounting
brackets to improve clearance

the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
14Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the securing circlip, and
disconnect the speedometer drive cable from
the gearbox.
15Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch. On models with fuel injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
16Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
disconnect the gear linkage support bracket
from the gearbox.
17Using a suitable pin punch, drive out the
roll-pin securing the gearchange rod to the
gear linkage.
18Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40º to 45º as it is
being removed.
19To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unbolt
the engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
20Ensure that the steering wheel is
positioned in the straight-ahead position, then
remove the clamp bolt from the lower steering
column clamp, swivel the plate to one side,
and disconnect the lower steering column
from the lower flexible coupling.
21Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
22Support the crossmember with a jack (do
not remove the jack from under the gearbox),
then loosen the bolts securing the
crossmember to the underbody. Remove the
crossmember securing bolts, and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the engine sump to clear the steering rack and
crossmember as the engine/gearbox
assembly is removed.
23Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.
24Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
25Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage
support bracket whilst the gearbox is
removed.
26Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
27If the vehicle is to be moved while the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed,
temporarily refit the suspension crossmember
and the anti-roll bar to the underbody, and
reconnect the steering column to the
intermediate shaft.Separation
28To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
29Remove the starter motor.
30Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
31Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the gearbox
when removing the lower engine-to-gearbox
bolts.
32Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
33Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 before proceeding. A suitable hoist
and lifting tackle will be required for this
operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmission
specialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands. (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
Ensure that there is enough working room
beneath the vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold, and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
10Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11Unscrew the four bolts securing thetransmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position
of the earth strap, where applicable. Recover
the mounting cup, and where applicable, the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
12Lower the transmission slightly on the
jack.
13Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission, to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and from the
selector lever on the transmission.
15Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, kickdown solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transmission extension housing. Plug the
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
ingress.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 18 to
27 of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox, and ignoring paragraph 25.
Separation
18To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
21Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
22Where applicable, remove the bolt
securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube
to the left-hand side of the cylinder block.
23Unscrew the engine-to-transmission
bolts, noting the locations of the bolts, and
the positions of the earth strap and any wiring
clips attached to the bolts. Recover any shims
fitted between the sump and the transmission
when removing the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts.
24Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate and, where applicable, pull the blanking
plug from the adapter plate.
25Pull the engine and the transmission
apart, ensuring that the torque converter is
held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out, resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
8Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
2B•6DOHC engine

should be fitted dry. Drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube, making sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine, and taking
care not to damage the timing chain cover
(see illustration).
31Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
32Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centring the lower timing chain cover.
34With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
35Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given
in the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
36Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts.
37Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.
38Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.
39Refit the alternator drivebelt.
40If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
41If applicable, refill the cooling system.
1Examine alI the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the complete tensioner assembly
must be renewed, as the sprocket cannot be
renewed independently. Note that the
tensioner plunger assembly must be renewed
whenever the timing chain is removed.3Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply-bowed
appearance, renew it.
Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning of
Section 5 and the note at the beginning of the
following Section before proceeding. The
cylinder head must not be removed when the
engine is warm.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
3On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner
lid as an assembly.
4Drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
6Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unbolt the hose bracket
from the left-hand side of the cylinder head
(see illustration).
7Unscrew the securing bolt and disconnect
the earth lead from the left-hand rear of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
8Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If necessary,
mark the HT leads to aid refitting.
9The cylinder head can be removed either
with or without the manifolds and fuel rail,
where applicable (it is easiest to remove thehead complete with the manifolds and fuel
rail). If desired, the inlet manifold and the fuel
rail can be unbolted and moved to one side,
leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected, but care must be taken not to
place any strain on them.
10Unscrew the three securing nuts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. It may be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle to gain access to the nuts
(in which case, apply the handbrake and
support the front of the vehicle securely on
axle stands). Recover the gasket.
11If the inlet manifold and the fuel rail (where
applicable) are to be removed with the
cylinder head, disconnect all relevant wires,
hoses, pipes and cables. Otherwise, unbolt
the manifold and the fuel rail, and move them
to one side, ensuring that they are adequately
supported. If the fuel rail is unbolted, be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
12Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 19
of Section 18.
Refitting
13Proceed as shown in paragraphs 20 to 55
of Section 18.
14With the cylinder head refitted, reverse the
procedure described in paragraphs 1 to 11,
noting the following points.
15Use a new gasket when reconnecting the
exhaust downpipe to the manifold.
16Ensure that the HT leads are reconnected
correctly.
17Fill the cooling system.
17Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
16Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - examination and
renovation
2B•10DOHC engine
15.30 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant
hose from the inlet manifold17.7 Disconnect the earth lead (arrowed)
from the cylinder head17.6 Hose bracket bolted to cylinder head
(arrowed)
15.31 Lower timing chain cover rubber
gasket in position. Ensure that lug on
gasket engages with notch in cover
(arrowed)

Inspection
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam
followers cannot be dismantled for renewal of
individual components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
and bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
Refitting
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts
as described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of
Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be used on refitting.
1Refer to Chapter 2, PartA, noting the
following points.
2If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter 6
when removing and refitting the clutch.
3There is no need to make alignment marks
between the flywheel/driveplate and the end
of the crankshaft, as the securing bolt holes
are offset, so the flywheel/driveplate can only
be fitted to the crankshaft in one position.
4The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
compound (see illustration).
5Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt, and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket, must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 31 to 39 of Section
15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal
tool if available. It may also be possible to
remove the oil seal by drilling the outer face
and using self-tapping screws and a pair of
grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.4Ideally, the new oil seal should be installed
using a tool similar to that shown (see
illustration).A suitable tool can be
improvised using a metal tube of suitable
diameter, a metal disc or flat bar, and two
flywheel bolts. Draw the seal into position
using the two flywheel bolts. Make sure that
the seal lip faces into the engine.
5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.Removal
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle - if so,
proceed to paragraph 9. However, if the
engine is in the vehicle, proceed as follows.
2Remove the gearbox and clutch, or
automatic transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position, then remove
the clamp bolt from the lower steering column
clamp, swivel the plate to one side, and
disconnect the lower steering column from
the lower flexible coupling.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts, and
carefully lower the crossmember sufficiently
to allow the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump
has been removed, to prevent sludge in the
sump from entering the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the
engine. If the sump is stuck, gently tap it
sideways to free it (the sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on studs in the cylinder
block). Do not prise between the mating faces
of the sump and block. Recover the gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHC engine 2B•15
2B
24.4 Tool used to fit crankshaft rear oil
seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool22.4 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
Warning: A new sump gasket will
be required on refitting, and
suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and
cylinder block mating faces.
Shims may be required when mating the
engine and gearbox/transmission - see text.