brake fluid FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Reference Workshop Manual

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the
stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before
installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could
cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of tightening
should always have a washer between it and the
relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt or
stud thread. However, it should be noted that
self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their
effectiveness after long periods of use, and insuch cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
REF•4General Repair Procedures
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain. To
find the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this number
free.

Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references to
these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of
this manual. Generally, an alternative method
of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and
screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades
from time to time. A little timely attention withemery cloth or a file will soon restore items like
this to a good serviceable finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Stroboscopic timing lightCylinder compression gaugeClutch plate alignment set
Micrometer setVernier calipers

MOT test checksREF•7
REF
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

REF•8MOTtest checks
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate (A) and homologation plate
(B) must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

MOTtest checksREF•9
REF
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, alittle detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
Fault diagnosisREF•11
REF
Engine
MEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
MStarter motor turns engine slowly
MEngine rotates, but will not start
MEngine difficult to start when cold
MEngine difficult to start when hot
MStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
MEngine starts, but stops immediately
MEngine idles erratically
MEngine misfires at idle speed
MEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
MEngine hesitates on acceleration
MEngine stalls
MEngine lacks power
MEngine backfires
MOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
MEngine runs-on after switching off
MEngine noises
Cooling system
MOverheating
MOvercooling
MExternal coolant leakage
MInternal coolant leakage
MCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
MExcessive fuel consumption
MFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
MExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
MPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
MClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
MClutch slips (engine speed increases; no increase in vehicle speed)
MJudder as clutch is engaged
MNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox
MNoisy in neutral with engine running
MNoisy in one particular gear
MDifficulty engaging gears
MJumps out of gear
MVibration
MLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
MFluid leakage
MTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smellMGeneral gear selection problems
MTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with acceleration
MEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
MTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in forward
or reverse gears
Propeller shaft
MClunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
MVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Final drive and driveshafts
MExcessive final drive noise
MOil leakage from final drive
MGrating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
Braking system
MVehicle pulls to one side under braking
MNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
MExcessive brake pedal travel
MBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
MExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
MJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
MPedal pulsates when braking hard
MBrakes binding
MRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
MVehicle pulls to one side
MWheel wobble and vibration
MExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
MWandering or general instability
MExcessively-stiff steering
MExcessive play in steering
MLack of power assistance
MTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
MBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
MIgnition/no-charge warning light remains on with engine running
MIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
MLights inoperative
MInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
MHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
MElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction

Excessive final drive noise
MOil level low, or incorrect grade (Chapter 1)
MWorn bearings (Chapter 9)
MWorn or badly adjusted crownwheel and pinion (Chapter 9)
MLoose or deteriorated final drive mountings (Chapter 9)
Oil leakage from final drive
MPinion or output flange oil seal leaking (Chapter 9)MRear cover leaking (Chapter 9)
MCover or casing cracked (Chapter 9)
Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
MFlange screws loose (Chapter 9)
MCV joints worn (Chapter 9)
MDriveshaft bent (Chapter 9)
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system
should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
MWorn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
MSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston
(Chapter 10).
MA mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
MBrake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MExcessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive brake pedal travel
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
MDeteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 10).
MMaster cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 10).
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
MDisconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MPrimary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 10).
MSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 10).
MIncorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads contaminated (Chapter 10).
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
MExcessive run-out or distortion of brake disc(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapters 1 and 11).
Pedal pulsates when braking hard
MNormal feature of ABS - no fault
Clunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
MWorn universal joints (Chapter 8).
MLoose flange bolt (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn centre bearing or universal joints (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).
MDeteriorated rubber insulator on centre bearing ( Chapter 8)
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MFaulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7).
MIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter
1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.
Fault diagnosisREF•15
REF
Propeller shaft
Final drive and driveshafts
Braking system

Brakes binding
MSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
MIncorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 10).
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
MSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
MFaulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 10).
Note:For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few
days
MBattery defective internally (Chapter 5).
MBattery electrolyte level low - where applicable (Chapter 1).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MAuxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
MAlternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).MAlternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).
MShort-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 13).
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated
with engine running
MAuxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
MAlternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).
MAlternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).
MInternal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).
MBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit (Chapter 5). Note:Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or
binding brakes.
Vehicle pulls to one side
MDefective tyre (Chapter 1).
MExcessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1
and 11).
MIncorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 11).
MAccident damage to steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Wheel wobble and vibration
MFront roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the
steering wheel) (Chapter 11).
MRear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the
vehicle) (Chapter 11).
MRoadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 11).
MFaulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 11).
MWheel bolts loose (Chapter 11).
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking
MDefective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 11).
MBroken or weak coil spring and/or suspension component
(Chapters 1 and 11).
MWorn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 11).
Wandering or general instability
MIncorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 11).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 11).
MRoadwheels out of balance (Chapter 11).
MFaulty or damaged tyre (Chapter 1).
MWheel bolts loose (Chapter 11).
MDefective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 11).
Excessively-stiff steering
MLack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 11).
MSeized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1
and 11).MBroken or incorrectly adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 11).
MSteering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 11).
Excessive play in steering
MWorn steering column universal joint(s) (Chapter 11).
MWorn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 11).
MWorn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 11).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 11).
Lack of power assistance
MBroken or incorrectly-adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect power steering fluid level (Chapter 1).
MRestriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 11).
MFaulty power steering pump (Chapter 11).
MFaulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 11).
Tyre wear excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
MTyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)
(Chapter 11).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 11).
MExcessively-hard cornering.
MAccident damage.
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
MIncorrect toe setting (Chapter 11).
Tyres worn in centre of tread
MTyres over-inflated (Chapter 1).
Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
MTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
MWorn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 11).
Tyres worn unevenly
MTyres out of balance (Chapter 1).
MExcessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).
MWorn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 11).
MFaulty tyre (Chapter 1).
REF•16Fault diagnosis
Steering and suspension
Electrical system

REF•20Glossary of Technical terms
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
FFan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold
Feeler blade
Adjusting spark plug gap
Gasket
EGR valve

AAccelerator cable- 4A•8
Accelerator pedal- 4A•8
Acknowledgements- 0•4
Aerial- 13•20
Air cleaner- 1•18, 1•19, 4A•4, 4B•4
Air conditioning systems- 1•16, 3•1 et seq
Airflow meter- 4B•8
Alarm system- 13•19
Alternator- 5•6
Anti-roll bars- 11•6, 11•13
Anti-theft alarm- 13•19
Antifreeze- 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
ATF- 0•17, 1•3
Automatic transmission- 7B•1 et seq
extension housing oil seal - 7B•5
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
fluid - 0•17, 1•3
fluid checks - 1•13
gear selector mechanism - 7B•5
kickdown cable - 7B•3
removal and refitting - 7B•2
reversing lamp switch - 7B•6
selector rod - 7B•5
starter inhibitor switch - 7B•6
vacuum diaphragm unit - 7B•6
Auxiliary drivebelts- 1•14, 1•21
Auxiliary shaft- 2A•18
BBattery- 0•15, 1•15, 5•5
Bearings (engine) - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
Bleeding the power steering- 11•18
Bleeding the brakes- 10•2
Body damage- 12•2, 12•4
Body electrical systems - 13•1 et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 12•1 et seq
Bonnet release cable- 12•4
Bonnet lock- 12•4, 12•5
Boot lid lock- 12•5
Brake checks- 1•10
Brake fluid- 0•13, 0•1, 1•21
Braking system- 10•1 et seq
backplate - 10•12
bleeding the brakes - 10•2
brake caliper - 10•8, 10•10
brake disc - 10•3, 10•11
brake drum - 10•12
brake fluid pipes and hoses - 10•19
brake fluid reservoir - 10•15
brake lamp switch - 13•6
brake pads - 10•3
brake pedal - 10•22
brake shoes - 10•6
computer module (ABS) - 10•17
deceleration valve - 10•18
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
handbrake adjustment - 1•16, 10•20, 10•21
handbrake cables - 1•16, 10•20, 10•21
handbrake lever - 10•22
hoses brake - 10•19
hydraulic unit pressure switch - 10•17
hydraulic unit/pump/motor (ABS) - 10•15, 10•16
load apportioning valve - 10•19master cylinder (brake) - 10•13
pressure switch - 10•17
vacuum servo unit - 10•14
valve block (ABS) - 10•17
wheel cylinder - 10•12
wheel sensor - 10•18
Bulbs exterior- 13•16
Bulbs interior- 13•10
Bulbs ratings- 13•2
Bumpers- 12•13
Buying spare parts - REF•3
CCables:
accelerator - 4A•8
bonnet release - 12•4
clutch - 6•2
handbrake - 10•20, 10•21
kickdown - 7B•3
speedometer - 13•11
tailgate/boot lid/filler cap - 12•6
Caliper (brake) front/rear- 10•8, 10•10
Camshaft and followers- 2A•17, 2B•14, 2C•16
Capacities- 1•3
Carburettor:
Ford VV type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•13
Pierburg 2V type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•14
Weber 2V type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•14
Weber 2V TLD type - 1•12, 4A•8, 4A•15
Cargo area- 12•10
Carpets- 12•2
Catalytic converter- 4B•3, 4B•14
Central locking system- 13•18
Centre/overhead console- 12•18, 12•19
CFI unit- 4B•10
Charging system- 5•5
Cigarette lighter- 13•6
Clock- 13•6
Clutch- 6•1 et seq
assembly - 6•3
cable - 6•2
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
pedal - 6•2
release bearing - 6•5
Coil- 5•13
Coil spring (rear) - 11•10
Compression test- 2A•7
Computer module (ABS)- 10•17
Connecting rods- 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
Contents- 0•2
Coolant- 0•12, 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
Coolant level- 0•12
Cooling, heating and air conditioning
systems- 3•1 et seq
antifreeze - 0•12, 0•17, 1•21, 3•3
coolant pump - 3•5
coolant temperature sender and sensor - 3•8
cooling fan - 3•7
draining - 1•21
drivebelt tensioner - 3•7
expansion tank/coolant sensor - 3•8
fan (radiator) - 3•7
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•13
filling - 1•21
flushing - 1•21heater - 3•9
radiator - 3•3
switches - 3•8
temperature gauge and sender unit - 3•8
thermostat - 3•4
Courtesy lamp switch- 13•5
Crankshaft oil seals- 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
Crankshaft bearings- 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
Cylinder bores- 2A•24
Cylinder head- 2A•14, 2B•10, 2C•13
DDents- 12•2
Depressurising fuel injection system- 4B•4
Dimensions and weights- REF•1
Disc brake - 10•3, 10•11
Distributor- 5•14, 5•15, 5•16
Door- 12•6
Door inner trim panel- 12•7
Door mirror switch- 13•5
Drivebelts check- 1•14, 1•21, 3•7
Driveplate- 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
Driveshafts:
check - 1•17
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
overhaul - 9•5
removal and refitting - 9•4
Drum (brake)- 10•12
EEarth fault finding- 13•3
Electric windows- 13•18
Electrical fault finding- 13•2
Electrical system (body)- 13•1 et seq
Electrical system:
weekly checks - 0•14
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•16
Electronic vacuum regulator- 4B•11
Engine:
auxiliary shaft - 2A•18
bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
bores - 2A•24
camshaft followers - 2A•17, 2B•14, 2C•16
codes - 2A•1, 2B•1, 2C•1
compartment views - 0•10, 1•5
compression test - 2A•7
connecting rods - 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
crankshaft bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
crankshaft oil seals - 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
cylinder bores - 2A•24
cylinder head - 2A•14, 2B•10, 2C•13
dismantling - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•10
DOHC engines- 2B•1 et seq
driveplate - 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•12
flywheel - 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
main bearings - 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
mountings - 2A•11, 2B•7, 2C•9
oils - 0•17, 1•3
oil and filter renewal - 1•9
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•21, 2B•16, 2C•20
oil seals crankshaft - 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
piston - 2A•22, 2B•17, 2C•21
IndexREF•23
REF
Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”