checking oil FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Reference Workshop Manual

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the
stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before
installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could
cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of tightening
should always have a washer between it and the
relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt or
stud thread. However, it should be noted that
self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their
effectiveness after long periods of use, and insuch cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
REF•4General Repair Procedures
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain. To
find the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this number
free.

REF•10MOTtest checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test
can be carried out later to check that the
vehicle pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-
bearing areas. (These include chassis box
sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,
and all suspension, steering, braking system
and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)
Any corrosion which has seriously reduced
the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow
the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000
rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,
this counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

Excessive final drive noise
MOil level low, or incorrect grade (Chapter 1)
MWorn bearings (Chapter 9)
MWorn or badly adjusted crownwheel and pinion (Chapter 9)
MLoose or deteriorated final drive mountings (Chapter 9)
Oil leakage from final drive
MPinion or output flange oil seal leaking (Chapter 9)MRear cover leaking (Chapter 9)
MCover or casing cracked (Chapter 9)
Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
MFlange screws loose (Chapter 9)
MCV joints worn (Chapter 9)
MDriveshaft bent (Chapter 9)
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking system
should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
MWorn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
MSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston
(Chapter 10).
MA mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
MBrake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MExcessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive brake pedal travel
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
MAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
MDeteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 10).
MMaster cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 10).
MFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
MFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
MDisconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MPrimary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 10).
MSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 10).
MIncorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 10).
MBrake pads contaminated (Chapter 10).
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
MExcessive run-out or distortion of brake disc(s) (Chapter 10).
MBrake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 10).
MBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).
MWear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapters 1 and 11).
Pedal pulsates when braking hard
MNormal feature of ABS - no fault
Clunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
MWorn universal joints (Chapter 8).
MLoose flange bolt (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn centre bearing or universal joints (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).
MDeteriorated rubber insulator on centre bearing ( Chapter 8)
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MFaulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7).
MIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter
1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.
Fault diagnosisREF•15
REF
Propeller shaft
Final drive and driveshafts
Braking system

refitting - 2A•10, 2B•7, 2C•9
removal - 2A•8, 2B•4, 2C•6
SOHC engines- 2A•1et seq
spark plugs - 1•2, 1•14, 5•12
sump - 2A•20, 2B•15, 2C•19
timing belt/chain and sprockets - 2A•12,
2B•8, 2C•10
timing and sprockets - 2A•12, 2B•8, 2C•10
valves - 1•15
Engine electrical systems - 5•1 et seq
Environmental considerations- REF•4
Exhaust gas oxygen sensor (HEGO)- 4B•15
Exhaust gas recirculation valve- 4B•14
Exhaust manifold- 4A•17, 4B•15
Exhaust pressure transducer- 4B•14
Exhaust system- 1•11, 4A•18, 4B•15
Expansion tank/coolant sensor- 3•8
FFacia panel- 12•16
Facia panel switches- 13•4
Fan (radiator)- 3•7
Fault diagnosis- REF•11
automatic transmission - REF•14
braking system - REF•15
clutch - REF•14
cooling system - REF•13
driveshafts - REF•15
electrical system - REF•16
engine - REF•12
final drive - REF•15
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•13
manual gearbox - REF•14
propeller shaft - REF•15
steering - REF•16
suspension - REF•16
Final drive and driveshafts- 9•1 et seq
Final drive fault diagnosis- REF•11, REF•15
Final drive unit- 9•2, 9•3, 9•4
Fluids- 0•17
Flywheel/driveplate- 2A•18, 2B•15, 2C•19
Foglamps- 13•15
Ford VV carburettor- 1•12, 4A•13
Front suspension crossmember- 11•3
Front suspension strut- 11•4
Fuel systems- carburettor - 4A•1 et seq
Fuel systems- fuel injection - 4B•1 et seq
Fuel system:
accelerator cable - 4A•8
accelerator pedal - 4A•8
air cleaner - 1•18, 1•19, 4A•4, 4B•4
airflow meter - 4B•8
catalytic converter - 4B•3, 4B•14
CFI unit- 4B•10
depressurising fuel injection system - 4B•4
dismantling and reassembly - 4A•8
electronic vacuum regulator - 4B•11
exhaust gas recirculation valve - 4B•14
exhaust gas oxygen sensor (HEGO) - 4B•15
exhaust manifold - 4A•17, 4B•15
exhaust pressure transducer - 4B•14
exhaust system - 4A•18, 4B•15
fuel filler cap - 12•14
fuel filter - 1•2, 1•20
fuel level sender unit - 4A•7, 4B•7fuel pressure regulator - 4A•5, 4B•5
fuel pump - 4A•5, 4A•6, 4B•6
fuel tank - 4A•7
fuel vapour separator - 4A•5
fuel gauges - 13•8
idle speed control valve - 4B•7
injector(s) - 4B•8
inlet manifold - 4A•15, 4B•12
mixture adjustment potentiometer - 4B•7
pulse-air - 4B•10
throttle body - 4B•12
throttle control motor - 4B•11
throttle position sensor - 4B•11
throttle valve control motor - 4B•11
Fuses- 13•3
GGear linkage- 7A•4
Gear selector mechanism- 7B•5
Gearbox - see Manual gearbox or
Automatic transmission
Gearbox oil- 0•17, 1•3
Glass- 12•11
HHandbrake check/adjustment- 1•16, 10•21
Handbrake cables- 10•20, 10•21
Handbrake lever - 10•22
Handbrake warning lamp switch- 13•6
Handles (door)- 12•9
Hazard warning flasher switch- 13•4
Headlamp alignment- 13•14
Headlamp unit- 13•13
Headlamp washers- 13•12
Headlining - 12•19
Heated rear window- 13•20
Heated seat- 13•19
Heater- 3•9
Hinges and locks- 1•14
Horn- 13•11
Horn switch- 13•5
Hose and fluid leak check- 0•8, 1•10,
Hoses brake- 10•19
Hoses power steering- 11•18
HT coil- 5•13
HT leads- 5•12
Hub carrier (front) - 11•5
Hydraulic fluid- 0•17
Hydraulic system (brakes) bleeding- 10•2
Hydraulic unit, pump, motor (ABS)- 10•15,
10•16
IIdle speed control valve- 4B•7
Idle speed/mixture- 1•11, 1•12, see
Specifications in Chapter 4A, and refer to
specific carburettor type
Ignition electronic modules- 5•3, 5•19
Ignition HT coil- 5•13
Ignition switch- 13•4
Ignition system check- 1•20
Ignition timing adjustment- 5•17
Indicator lamps- 13•15Indicator switch/relay- 13•4
Injector(s)- 4B•8
Inlet manifold- 4A•15, 4B•12
Instrument panel- 13•7
Interior trim- 12•15
Introduction to the Ford Sierra- 0•4
JJacking and vehicle support- 0•6
Jump starting- 0•9
KKickdown cable - 7B•3
LLeaf springs- 11•13
Leak, checking- 0•8, 1•10
Lights- 13•14
Locks:
bootlid - 12•5
door - 12•9, 12•10
tailgate - 12•6
Loudspeakers- 13•20
Lower arm (suspension)- 11•4, 11•7, 11•8
Lubricants and fluids- 0•17
Luggage area light switch- 13•5
MMain bearings- 2A•23, 2B•17, 2C•23
Maintenance and servicing - see Routine
maintenance
Manifolds- 4A•15, 4A•17, 4B•12, 4B•15
Manual gearbox- 7A•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
gear linkage - 7A•4
gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•3
oil level check - 1•13
removal and refitting - 7A•2
Master cylinder (brake)- 10•13
Mirrors- 12•12
Mixture (CO)- see Idle speed/mixture
Mixture adjustment potentiometer- 4B•7
MOT test checks- REF•7
Mountings, engine-2A•11, 2B•7, 2C•9
NNumber plate lamp- 13•16
OOil change/filter- 1•1, 1•9,
Oil pressure warning switch- 13•6
Oil pump- 2A•21, 2B•16, 2C•20
Oil seals- REF •4
Oil seals crankshaft- 2A•19, 2B•15, 2C•19
Oils- engine and gearbox- 0•17, 1•3
PPads (brake) - 10•3
Paintwork damage- 12•2
Parts- REF•3
REF•24Index