power steering fluid FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual

where applicable disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.
2Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
3Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
beneath the vehicle.
4To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts, in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
7Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket
from the engine mounting bracket, and place
it to one side.
8Remove the two clips securing the selector
rod, and detach the selector rod from the
manual selector lever, and the selector lever
on the transmission.
9Disconnect the kickdown cable from the
lever on the transmission, and where
applicable, detach the cable from the bracket
on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions
it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in
order to remove the cable from the bracket.
Withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
10Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where
applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the
kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch.
11Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transmission extension housing. Plug the
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
ingress.
12Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe
from its securing bracket on the transmission
housing where applicable.
13Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
14Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
15Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood to spread the load.
16Unscrew the four bolts securing the
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Note the position of the earth
strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central
bolt securing the crossmember to the
transmission and remove the crossmember.
Recover the mounting cup and where
applicable the exhaust mounting bracket.
17Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
engine/transmission assembly.18Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/transmission assembly will assume
a steep angle of approximately 40¼ to 45¼ as it
is being removed.
19Raise the engine/transmission so that the
engine mountings are clear of the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift
the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not
to damage surrounding components.
20With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
moved.
Separation
21To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
24Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
25Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
from the engine and transmission.
26Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
transmission bolts, noting the locations of the
earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove
the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and
where applicable pull the blanking plug from
the adapter plate.
27Pull the engine and transmission apart,
ensuring that the torque converter is held
firmly in place in the transmission housing,
otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid
spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
9, noting the following points:
2Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
the centre of the friction disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Refit the exhaust downpipe.
6Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal. 7Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
8Fill the cooling system.
9Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
10Adjust the throttle cable.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
10, noting the following points:
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
ÒAÓ in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate, noting that on the C3 type
transmission, the torque converter fluid drain
plug must line up with the opening in the
driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B).
When the engine is positioned flush with the
engine adapter plate and the transmission
housing, check that the torque converter is
free to move axially a small amount before
refitting and tightening the engine-to-
transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Refit the exhaust downpipe.
7Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
8Fill the cooling system.
9Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
10Adjust the throttle cable.
11Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
cable.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
11, noting the following points.
2Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised. This is to ensure that the
gearbox input shaft splines will pass through
the splines in the centre of the friction disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
15Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - reconnection and
refitting
14Engine - refitting (automatic
transmission in vehicle)
13Engine - refitting (manual
gearbox in vehicle)
2A¥10SOHC engines

4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Refit the propeller shaft.
6Refit the exhaust system.
7Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal.
8Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
9Fill the cooling system.
10Check and if necessary top-up the
gearbox oil level.
11Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
12Adjust the throttle cable.
1Reverse the removal procedure described
in Section 12, noting the following points.
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
ÒAÓ in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as shown. Incorrect installation of the torque
converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine and transmission are
reconnected, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate, noting that
on the C3 type transmission, the torque
converter fluid drain plug must line up with the
opening in the driveplate (see illustration 2.25
in Chapter 7B). When the engine is positioned
flush with the engine adapter plate and the
transmission housing, check that the torque
converter is free to move axially a small
amount before refitting and tightening the
engine-to-transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Reconnect and adjust the selector rod.
7Refit the propeller shaft.8Refit the exhaust system.
9Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
10Fill the cooling system.
11Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
12Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
13Adjust the throttle cable.
14If applicable, adjust the kickdown cable.
1The engine mountings incorporate
hydraulic dampers and must be renewed if
excessive engine movement is evident.
2Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the central nuts securing the engine
mounting brackets to the tops of the
mountings. Recover the washers where
applicable.
3Remove the two bolts or the central nut and
washer (as applicable) in each case securing
the mountings to the crossmember.
4Raise the engine using a hoist and lifting
tackle attached to the engine lifting brackets on
the cylinder head, or a jack with an interposed
block of wood under the sump, until the
mountings can be withdrawn (see illustration).
5Fit the new mountings, then lower the
engine onto them.
6Fit the bolts or the nuts and washers (as
applicable) securing the mountings to the
crossmember, and tighten them.
7Fit and tighten the central nuts, and washers
if applicable, securing the engine mounting
brackets to the tops of the mountings.
Dismantling
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if theengine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers
available to hold small items according to
their use, as this will help when reassembling
the engine and also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain a complete set of new
gaskets for use during engine reassembly, but
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
7Where possible, refit securing nuts, bolts and
washers to their locations after removing the
relevant components. This will help to protect
the threads and will also prevent losses.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9Suitable splined sockets will be required for
removal of the oil pump bolts, the timing belt
tensioner bolts on early models (up to mid-
1985), and the cylinder head bolts on early
models (up to early 1984) and a size T55 Torx
socket will be required to remove the cylinder
head bolts on later models (from early 1984).
10Before dismantling the main engine
components the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed, with
reference to the relevant Chapters of this
Manual and the relevant Sections of this
Chapter, where applicable:
Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
applicable
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump and operating pushrod (where
applicable)
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plug
Coolant pump, thermostat and housing
Temperature gauge sender and oil pressure
warning lamp switch
Oil filter
Dipstick
Engine mounting brackets (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation valve and oil separator
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see illustration)
18Engine dismantling,
examination, renovation and
reassembly - general information
17Engine mountings - renewal
16Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
reconnection and refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥11
2A
18.10b Removing the alternator mounting
bracket18.10a Removing the right-hand engine
mounting bracket
17.4 Withdrawing an engine mounting

components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
28Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
29Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main
bearing cap sealing wedges with sealing
compound, then press them into position
using a blunt screwdriver with the rounded
red face towards the cap (see illustration).
30Refit the oil pump and pick-up tube.
31Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and the auxiliary shaft front cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts. Smear
the lip of the oil seal with clean engine oil
before fitting; and using a straight edge, ensure
that the bottom face of the oil seal housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder
block before finally tightening the bolts.
32Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
33Refit the flywheel/driveplate and the
auxiliary shaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket,
and timing belt.
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted, either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones.
Production undersizes are also indicated by
paint marks as follows:
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
0.40 mm oversize
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearings. These are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings
(and big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filaments is checked against a scale which
shows the bearing running clearance. This
clearance is then compared with that given in
the Specifications (see illustration).
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal, extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores; if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
However, any improvement brought about by
such rings may be short-lived.
4If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
paper or a Òglaze busterÓ tool. The object is to
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assistthe new rings to bed in.
5If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
new piston rings are being fitted, either the
top piston ring must be stepped (Òridge
dodgerÓ pattern) or the ridge must be
removed with a ridge reamer. If the ridge is
left, the piston ring may hit it and break.
6Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensurethatthey are
unobstructed.
1Make a final check to ensure that
everything has been reconnected to the
engine and that no rags or tools have been left
in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little
longer than usual as fuel is pumped up to the
engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel or coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, where applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.
6Bring the engine to normal operating
temperature, then check the ignition timing
and the idle speed (where applicable) and
mixture.
7If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, stop the engine after it has been
running for 15 minutes, then remove the
crankshaft cover and tighten the cylinder
head bolts to the fourth stage given in the
Specifications, in the correct order.
8When the engine has completely cooled,
re-check the oil and coolant levels, and
check, and if necessary adjust, the valve
clearances.
9If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
37Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
36Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation35Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2A¥24SOHC engines
34.24 Fitting a thrustwasher to the centre
main bearing cap35.5 Checking the width of the filament
against the scale of the packet34.29 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear
main bearing cap