weight FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by MacPherson struts with coil springs and integral
telescopic shock absorbers. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models
Rear suspension
Type:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent by semi-trailing arms and coil springs with telescopic
shock absorbers mounted behind coil springs on Saloon and
Hatchback models but concentric with coil springs on Estate models.
Self-levelling rear shock absorbers on certain Estate models. Anti-roll
bar fitted to certain models
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Live beam axle with leaf springs and telescopic shock absorbers
Steering
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack-and-pinion steering gear linked to collapsible steering column by
flexible coupling and universal joint. Power steering available on
certain models
Front wheel alignment*
Production toe-setting:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 1.0 mm (0.04 in) toe-in
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm (0.08 in) ± 2.0 mm (0.08 in) toe-in
Service tolerance before adjustment is required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 mm (0.02 in) toe-out to 4.5 mm (0.18 in) toe-in
*Toe-setting figures are quoted for vehicle at kerb weight with 3.0 litres (0.66 gallons) of fuel in tank
Chapter 11
Suspension and steering
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm compliance bushes - renewal . . . . . .8
Front hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front suspension crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . .3
Front suspension lower arm inner pivot bush - renewal . . . . . . . . . . .9
Front suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4
Front wheel - alignment checking and adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Power steering fluid circuit - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Power steering fluid hoses - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Power steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Rear coil spring (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear suspension and axle assembly (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Rear suspension and final drive unit assembly (Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Rear suspension/final drive unit rear mounting (Saloon Hatchback and
Estate models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Rear suspension front mounting (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Rear suspension leaf spring (P100 models) - removal and refitting . .19
Rear suspension leaf spring bush (P100 models) - renewal . . . . . . .21
Rear suspension leaf spring shackle (P100 models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Rear suspension lower arm (Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear wheel bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Steering column adjuster - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . .25
Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Steering gear rubber gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Steering intermediate shaft and flexible coupling - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Steering wheel - centralising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Tie-rod end - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
11•1
Specifications Contents
11
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty

6Where applicable, remove the brake pipes
from the clips on the crossmember, taking
care not to strain them, and detach any cables
or electrical leads which may be secured with
clips or cable-ties, noting their positions.
7Support the crossmember with a jack, then
unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts
(see illustration).
8Lower the crossmember and withdraw it
from under the vehicle.
9If desired, the engine mountings can now
be unbolted from the crossmember.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear
in mind the following points.
11Do not tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. This is to prevent “wind up” of the
rubber bushes which will occur when the
vehicle is lowered if the bolts have been
tightened with no load on the suspension. The
following procedure must be used when
tightening the pivot bolts. Tighten the bolt to
the specified “clamping” torque, then loosen
the bolt fully. Re-tighten to the specified
“snug” torque and then further tighten the bolt
through the specified angle.
12Refit any cables or electrical leads in their
original positions, where applicable.
13When lowering the engine onto its
mountings, ensure that the locating pegs on
the mountings engage with the holes in the
mounting brackets.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable) (see
illustration).4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut from the lower arm balljoint.
Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the lower arm from the hub carrier. The lower
arm can now be withdrawn from the vehicle.
Recover the remaining dished washer and
plastic cover (where applicable) from the end
of the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
6If the lower arm has been removed due to a
worn balljoint, the complete arm must be
renewed.
7The anti-roll bar compliance bushes can be
renewed as described in Section 8, but note
that the bushes on both sides of the vehicle
must be renewed at the same time. The lower
arm inner pivot bush can be renewed as
described in Section 9.
Refitting
8To refit the lower arm, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washer (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic cover
(where applicable) to the end of the anti-roll
bar, then refit the lower arm to the anti-roll
bar. Fit the remaining plastic cover (where
applicable) and the deep dished washer
(colour coded yellow or black) and refit the
securing nut. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage. Note that the convex faces of the
dished washers must face the lower arm.10Reconnect the balljoint to the hub carrier,
refit the castellated nut and tighten to the
specified torque. Fit a new split pin.
11Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
12Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
13Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: A spring compressor tool will be
required if the strut is to be dismantled.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hose.
4Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and detach the
wire from the clip on the strut. Unplug the
connector and place the sensor to one side.
5Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut. Using a
suitable lever, such as a cold chisel, lever the
hub carrier clamp legs and wedge them apart.
6Lever the suspension lower arm
downwards to separate the hub carrier from
the bottom of the strut.
4Front suspension strut -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3Front suspension lower arm -
removal,overhaul and refitting
11•4Suspension and steering
2.3 Engine mounting nut (arrowed)
3.3 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut (arrowed)3.2 Front suspension lower arm-to-
crossmember pivot bolt and nut
2.7 Front suspension crossmember
mounting bolts (arrowed)

Refitting
8To refit the anti-roll bar, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washers (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic covers
(where applicable) to the ends of the anti-roll
bar, then push the anti-roll bar through the
bushes in the lower arms. Fit the remaining
plastic covers (where applicable) and the
deep dished washers (colour coded yellow or
black) and loosely fit the securing nuts. Note
that the convex faces of the dished washers
must face the lower arm. Do not tighten the
nuts fully at this stage.
10Locate the “free” lower arm inner pivot
bush in the crossmember, and refit the pivot
bolt, washer and nut. If necessary, push the
outer rim of the roadwheel in order to line up
the holes in the lower arm bush and the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt head
should face to the rear of the vehicle. Do not
tighten the bolt at this stage.
11Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels.
12Refit the anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Note that various different
types of clamping components have been
used during production, and if any of the
components are to be renewed, it is important
to retain the old components for identification
when ordering new parts. The same type of
clamp assembly must be used on both sides
of the vehicle. Tighten the bolts evenly on
each clamp to the specified torque. Where
applicable, secure the bolts with the locktabs.
13Bounce the vehicle to settle the
suspension, then tighten the lower arm pivot
bolt, following the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.Note: The compliance bushes must be
renewed in vehicle sets, therefore the bushes
on both sides of the vehicle must be renewed
at the same time. If plastic covers were not
originally fitted between the dished washers
and the bushes, suitable covers should be
obtained for fitting during reassembly.
1Remove the anti-roll bar.
2Using a thin-bladed chisel or screwdriver,
carefully prise out the compliance bushes
from the lower arms.
3Tap the new bushes into place using a
suitable socket or tube drift (see illustration).
4Some vehicles may have small rubber
spacer washers fitted to the ends of the
anti-roll bar, and these should be discarded
on reassembly.
5Refit the anti-roll bar.
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember.
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable).
4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Pull the inner end of the lower arm from the
crossmember.
6The pivot bush can now be removed from
the lower arm using a long bolt with nut,
washers and a suitable metal tube.
7Lubricate the new bush with soapy water,
and fit with a single continuous action to avoiddeformation of the bush, again using the bolt,
nut, washers and tube.
8Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember, and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
9Refit the plastic cover, dished washer
(where applicable), and nut to the end of the
anti-roll bar. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage.
10Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
11Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
12Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
13Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: From May 1986, revised final drive unit
rear mounting bolts have been used in
production. Whenever the earlier type of bolts
are removed, they should be discarded and
the later type fitted. The earlier bolts are
coloured blue, and the later type bolts are
coloured gold.
Removal
1Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). It
is only strictly necessary to jack up the rear of
the vehicle, but this provides only limited
access. Note that the axle stands should be
positioned under the side members.
2Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie. from the joint.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Disconnect the handbrake equaliser from
the operating rod by removing the circlip and
10Rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
9Front suspension lower arm
inner pivot bush - renewal
8Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
compliance bushes - renewal
Suspension and steering 11•7
11
8.3 Tapping a front anti-roll bar-to-lower
arm compliance bush into position
7.4 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm mounting
A Rear (black or green) shallow dished
washer
B Plastic cover (where applicable)
C Compliance bushes
D Plastic cover (where applicable)
E Front (yellow or black) deep dished
washer

Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
17Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
18On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Models with rear disc brakes
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
19With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
loosen the rear hub nut. A suitable extension
bar will be required, as the nut is extremely
tight. Note that the left-hand nut has a
left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise
direction. Before loosening the nut, ensure
that the handbrake is applied, and chock the
relevant rear wheel.
20Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, jack
up the rear of the car and support on axle
stands placed under the side members.
21Remove the rear roadwheel.
22Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie from the joint.
23Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm (see
illustration). Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the bracket by removing
the U-shaped retaining clip.
24Remove the handbrake cable from the
clip on the lower arm.
25Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it to one
side, taking care not to strain the brake hose.
26Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the hub, remove the retaining spire
washer(s), and remove the disc.
27Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid strainingthe joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
28Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller pull off the drive flange.
29Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield.
Note that the stub axle is retained in the hub
carrier.
30Disconnect the ABS sensor, and detach
the lead from the clip on the lower arm.
31Remove the propeller shaft.
32Proceed as shown in paragraphs 7 to 14
inclusive.
Refitting
33Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
34Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tabs.
35When refitting the hub carrier to the lower
arm note that there are two types of bolts used
. The two types of bolt must not be mixed on a
vehicle, but can be changed in complete sets
for the alternative type. A complete set is eight
bolts, four each side. Note that the two types
of bolt have different torque wrench settings.
When renewing the wheel bearings a suitable
puller will be required to remove the drive
flange, and a new rear hub nut must be used
on reassembly.36When refitting the drive flange to the hub
assembly, use a new hub nut, and leave
tightening until the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. Apply the handbrake and chock the
relevant rear wheel when tightening the nut.
37When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and hub.
38Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
39On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Saloon and Hatchback models
1With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt and nut from the relevant
lower arm (see illustration). If desired, the
rear of the vehicle can be raised on ramps to
improve access.
2Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
remove the trim cover behind the side
cushion. The cover is secured by two
self-tapping screws (see illustrations).
12Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•9
11
11.23 Rear suspension lower arm brake
pipe brackets (arrowed)
A Left-hand bracketB Right-hand bracket
12.1 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
- Saloon and Hatchback models
11.12 Lower arm-to-crossmember inner
pivot11.10 Rear suspension front guide plate
12.2a Remove the trim cover . . .

3With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting bolt and nut. Withdraw
the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts securely.
Estate models
Note: On models fitted with heavy duty
Nivomat shock absorbers, follow the
procedure given in Section 13, as the shock
absorber and coil spring are an integrated unit.
5With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to unscrew
and remove the two shock absorber lower
mounting bolts from the relevant lower arm(see
illustration).If desired, the rear of the vehicle
can be raised on ramps to improve access.
6Working inside the rear of the vehicle, fold
down the rear seat backrest, fold back the
floor covering and remove the front section of
the luggage compartment floor, which is
secured with 12 self-tapping screws.
7With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting nut and washer (see
illustration). Withdraw the shock absorber
from under the vehicle.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts and nut securely.
P100 models
9With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting nut, washer, and rubber
insulator. If desired, the rear of the vehicle can
be raised on ramps to improve access.10Unscrew and remove the top mounting
bolt, nut and washer from the chassis
crossmember. Withdraw the shock absorber
upwards.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolt and nut securely.
Models with rear drum brakes
1Remove the relevant driveshaft.
2Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the vehicle underbody.
Plug the ends of the pipe and hose to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
3Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
4Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
5On Saloon and Hatchback models, unscrew
and remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and nut from the lower arm.
6On Estate models fitted with standard
shock absorbers, remove the shock absorber
as described in Section 12. On Estate models
fitted with heavy duty Nivomat shock
absorbers, disconnect the upper and lower
mountings.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.8Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring, or coil spring/heavy duty shock
absorber as applicable, and the rubber cup.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
11Refit the driveshaft.
12On completion, bleed the brakes.
Models with rear disc brakes
13Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
14Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid straining
the joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
15Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 8
inclusive.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal. Where
applicable, secure the larger front guide plate
bolt by bending up the lockwasher tab(s), and
on completion, bleed the brakes.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
With rear drum brakes
Note: There are two types of bolts used to
secure the rear hub carrier to the lower arm
(see illustration). The two types of bolt must
not be mixed on a vehicle, but can be changed
in complete sets for the alternative type. A
complete set is eight bolts, four each side.
Note that the two types of bolt have different
torque wrench settings. When renewing the
wheel bearings a suitable puller will be
required to remove the drive flange, and a new
rear hub nut must be used on reassembly.
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. On early models, relieve
the staking before loosening the nut (see
illustration). Later models use self-locking
14Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
13Rear coil spring (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
11•10Suspension and steering
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolts - Estate models
14.1a Alternative types of rear hub carrier-
to-lower arm securing bolts12.7 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
(arrowed) - Estate models
12.2b . . . for access to the rear shock
absorber upper mounting
14.1b On early models relieve the staking
(arrowed) on the rear hub nut

5Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
Section. Refit any shims in their original noted
positions, and tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
Removal
1Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts, chock the
front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle
and support on axle stands placed under the
side members.
2Prise off the straps which connect the
anti-roll bar to the suspension lower arms
(see illustration).
3Unbolt the two securing brackets from the
underbody, and remove the anti-roll bar (see
illustration).
4The connecting straps can be prised from
the ends of the anti-roll bar, and the
underbody mounting brackets and rubbers,
which are of a split design, can be pulled off.
5When fitting new mounting components,
lubricate the rubber parts with soapy water to
ease assembly.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing bolts
to the specified torque.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.2Support the rear axle with a jack, using an
interposed block of wood to spread the load.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Remove the securing circlip and the pivot
pin, and detach the handbrake equaliser from
the linkage on the underbody.
5Remove the handbrake cables from the
clips on the underbody, and from the brackets
on the crossmember. To remove the cables
from the crossmember, remove the U-shaped
retaining clips. Note that the cable adjuster is
secured to the right-hand crossmember
bracket. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before attempting to disconnect any
part of the mechanism.
6Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose on the right-hand side of the chassis
crossmember. Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the crossmember by
removing the U-shaped retaining clip (see
illustration).
7Remove the spring clip and clevis pin and
disconnect the spring from the brake load
apportioning valve lever on the right-hand
side of the underbody (see illustration).
8Detach the exhaust system from the two
rear mountings.
9Unbolt the shock absorbers from the
chassis crossmember.
10Unbolt the leaf springs from the front
brackets on the underbody, (Section 19).
11Lower the rear axle.
12Loosen the spring shackle-to-underbody
bolts, then unbolt the leaf springs from the
spring shackles, and remove the rear
suspension and axle assembly from under thevehicle, guiding the handbrake cables over
the exhaust system.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
14Do not fully tighten the leaf spring
mounting bolts or the spring
shackle-to-underbody bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is resting on the roadwheels.
15Renew all self-locking nuts and spring
washers.
16On completion, check the brake load
apportioning valve adjustment and the
handbrake adjustment. Bleed the rear brake
circuit and check the axle oil level.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.
2Support the relevant side of the rear axle
with a jack, using an interposed block of
wood under the axle tube to spread the load.
3Unscrew the nuts, and remove the two
U-bolts on each side of the vehicle which
secure the axle to the leaf springs (see
illustration). Note that there is no need to
19Rear suspension leaf spring
(P100 models) - removal and
refitting
18Rear suspension and axle
assembly (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
17Rear anti-roll bar (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•13
11
17.3 Anti-roll bar-to-underbody securing
bracket
18.7 Remove the split pin (arrowed) from
the brake load apportioning valve lever
18.6 Brake pipe-to-hose connection on
right-hand side of chassis crossmember -
P100 models
1 Brake pipe
2 U-shaped clip3 Brake hose
17.2 Anti-roll bar-to-lower arm connecting
strap
19.3 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) from the
rear axle-to-leaf spring U-bolts

disconnect the shock absorber from the
U-bolt counterplate.
4Unbolt the leaf spring from the front bracket
on the underbody (see illustration).
5Loosen the spring shackle-to-underbody
bolt, then unbolt the leaf spring from the
spring shackle and remove the spring (see
illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
7Do not fully tighten the leaf spring mounting
bolts or the spring shackle-to-underbody bolt
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
roadwheels.
8Renew all self-locking nuts and spring
washers.
9Align the axle on the leaf spring so that the
locating pin on the spring engages with the
corresponding hole in the axle. Similarly
ensure that the U-bolt counterplate engages
with the locating pin on the leaf spring.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members. Note that a loaded
vehicle must not be jacked under the
differential casing.2Support the relevant side of the rear axle
with a jack, using an interposed block of
wood under the axle tube to spread the load.
3Unscrew and remove the spring
shackle-to-underbody bolt and the leaf
spring-to-spring shackle bolt, and remove the
shackle components.
4Examine the components for wear and
damage and renew as necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew
all self-locking nuts and spring washers, and
do not fully tighten the bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels.
Note: All self-locking nuts and spring washers
must be renewed on reassembly.
1Proceed as described in Section 19,
paragraphs 1 to 3 inclusive.
2Unbolt the relevant end of the leaf spring,
and lower it to gain access to the bush. Note
that if the shackle end of the spring is
unbolted, the shackle-to-underbody bolt
should be loosened in order to aid refitting.
3The bush can be removed using a long bolt
with nut, washers and a suitable metal tube.
4Lubricate the new bush with soapy water
and fit using the bolt, nut, washers and tube.
5Proceed as described in Section 19,
paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive.
Removal
1Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
2Prise the trim insert from the centre of the
steering wheel, and where applicable,
disconnect the horn electrical lead(s) (see
illustration).
3Insert the ignition key and check that the
steering lock is disengaged.
4Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw the
steering wheel from the hexagon shaped inner
column (see illustration). If the wheel is tight
on the inner column, sit in the driver’s seat
and tap the wheel from behind with the palms
of the hands (but screw the nut back on two
or three turns for safety).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
that the lug on the direction indicator cam is
aligned with the cut-out in the steering wheel,
and make sure that the direction indicator
switch is in the neutral position. Tighten the
retaining nut to the specified torque.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60º.
For larger errors, remove the steering wheel
and make a rough correction by repositioning
the wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired
straight-ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands.
4Slacken both tie-rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each
tie-rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined
(see illustration).
23Steering wheel - centralising
22Steering wheel - removal and
refitting
21Rear suspension leaf spring
bush (P100 models) - renewal
20Rear suspension leaf spring
shackle (P100 models) -
removal and refitting
11•14Suspension and steering
19.5 Leaf spring shackle
22.4 Removing the steering wheel retaining
nut22.2 Prise off the steering wheel trim insert
and disconnect the horn electrical lead
19.4 Leaf spring front bracket
23.5 Make alignment marks (arrowed)
between each tie-rod end and its rod when
centralising the steering wheel

4Extract the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut (see illustration).
5Using a balljoint separator tool, release the
tie-rod end from the hub carrier (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod,
noting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
8Screw the tie-rod end onto the tie-rod the
number of turns noted during removal.
9Tighten the nuts to the specified torque,
and fit a new split pin to the castellated nut.
10On P100 models, align the previously
made marks on the roadwheel and wheel
stud.
11On completion, check and if necessary
adjust the front wheel alignment.
1Front wheel alignment is defined by
camber, castor steering axis inclination and
toe setting. The first three factors are
determined in production; only toe can be
adjusted in service. Incorrect toe will cause
rapid tyre wear.
2Toe is defined as the amount by which the
distance between the front wheels, measured
at hub height, differs from the front edges tothe rear edges. If the distance between the
front edges is less than that at the rear, the
wheels are said to toe-in; the opposite case is
known as toe-out.
3To measure toe, it will be necessary to
obtain or make a tracking gauge. These are
available in motor accessory shops, or one
can be made from a length of rigid pipe or bar
with some kind of threaded adjustment facility
at one end. Many tyre specialists will also
check toe free, or for a nominal sum.
4Before measuring toe, check that all
steering and suspension components are
undamaged and that tyre pressures are
correct. The vehicle must be at approximately
kerb weight, with the spare wheel and jack in
their normal positions and any abnormal loads
removed.
5Park the vehicle on level ground and
bounce it a few times to settle the suspension.
6Use the tracking gauge to measure the
distance between the inside faces of the front
wheel rims, at hub height, at the rear of the
front wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “Y” (see illustration).7Push the vehicle forwards or backwards so
that the wheels rotate exactly 180º (half a
turn). Measure the distance between the front
wheel rims again, this time at the front of the
wheels. Record this distance; call it
measurement “X”.
8Subtract measurement “X” from
measurement “Y”. If the answer is positive it is
the amount of toe-in; if negative it is the
amount of toe-out. Permissible values are
given in the Specifications.
9If adjustment is necessary loosen the
tie-rod end locknuts and the outer bellows
clips, then rotate each tie-rod by equal
amounts until the setting is correct. Hold the
tie-rod ends in their horizontal position with a
spanner while making the adjustment.
10Tighten the locknuts and outer bellows
clips.
11Provided the tie-rods have been adjusted
by equal amounts the steering wheel should
be central when moving straight-ahead. The
amount of visible thread on each tie-rod
should also be equal. If necessary refer to
Section 23.
34Front wheel alignment
- checking and adjusting
Suspension and steering 11•19
11
34.6 Front wheel alignment
A CamberB CastorC Toe setting
For X and Y, see text
33.5 Using a balljoint separator tool to
release the tie-rod end from the hub
carrier
33.4 Extracting the split pin from the tie-
rod balljoint castellated nut