wheel bolts FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Suspension And Steering Workshop Manual

Wheels
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Pressed steel or alloy
Size:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models:
Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 x 4.50 in, 13 x 5.50 in, or 14 x 5.50 in
Alloy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 x 5.50 in
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 x 5.50 in
Tyre sizes
Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle
handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations
Saloon and Hatchback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165 R 13H, 165 R 135, 165 R 13T, 185/70 R 13H, 185/70 R 135,
185/70 R13T, 195/60 R 14H, 195/60 VR 14 or 195/65 R 14T
Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H, 195/65 R 14T,
195/60 R 14H or 195/60 VR 14 P100 models 185R 14 8PR
Tyre pressures (cold): lbf/in2
(bar):FrontRear
All Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models with normal load* . . . . . . .26 (1.8)26 (1.8)
All Saloon and Hatchback models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
Estate models with full load:
175 R 13H, 175 R 135,175 R 13T, 195/70 R 13H and 195/65 R14T .29 (2.0)48 (2.8)
195/60 R 14H and 195/60 VR 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 (2.0)36 (2.5)
P100 models with light load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 (1.8)36 (2.5)
P100 models with full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 (3.5)65 (4.5)
*Normal load is defined as up to three passengers (or equivalent). For sustained high speeds add 1.5 lbf/in2
(0.1 bar) for every 6 mph (10 km/h)
over 100 mph (160 km/h)
†A light load is defined as one passenger plus up to 100 kg (220 lb) payload
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Roadwheel nuts
Wheelnuts:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models (steel and alloy wheels) . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 to 9063 to 66
Hub nuts:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 to 350229 to 258
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 to 450288 to 332
Front suspension
Strut upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5230 to 38
Hub carrier-to-strut pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 to 9257 to 68
Crossmember-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9052 to 66
Engine mounting-to-crossmember nut:
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 to 7037 to 52
P100 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5830 to 43
Anti-roll bar-to-lower arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 11052 to 81
Anti-roll bar U-clamp-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 7041 to 52
Lower arm-to-hub carrier balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 to 8548 to 63
Lower arm inner pivot bolt:
Stage 1 (“clamping”torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Loosen fully, then Stage 2 (“snug” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90º
Rear suspension
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models:
Lower arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 9559 to 70
Front guide plate-to-underbody bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Front guide plate-to-crossmember bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10074
Suspension/final drive unit rear mounting-to-underbody bolts (gold
coloured) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Suspension/final drive unit rear mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5030 to 37
Anti-roll bar-to-underbody bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm bolts*:
Type X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Type Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 10059 to 74
Hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 to 290185 to 214
*See Section 15
11•2Suspension and steering

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
P100 models:
Shock absorber-to-chassis crossmember bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 to 7044 to 52
Leaf spring-to-front bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Leaf spring-to-spring shackle bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 to 196116 to 145
Spring shackle-to-underbody bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 8559 to 63
Axle-to-leaf spring U-bolt nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 to 5829 to 43
Manual steering
Steering gear-to-crossmember bolts:
Stage 1 (“clamping” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Loosen fully, then Stage 2 (“snug” torque) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten through a further 90º
Steering column adjuster through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Tie-rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 to 6842 to 50
Tie-rod end-to-hub carrier nut* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 3215 to 24
Tie-rod-to-steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 to 8853 to 65
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2617 to 19
Column mounting pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5533 to 41
Pinion retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
Slipper plug† . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 53 to 4
*Tighten nut to specified torque and then tighten to next available split pin hole
†Tighten nut to specified torque and then loosen off 60º to 70º
Power steering (where different to manual steering)
Tie-rod to steering rack balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 7752 to 57
Flexible coupling-to-steering gear clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Intermediate shaft-to-inner column clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
Pinion locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 to 4727 to 35
Slipper plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 to 42 to 3
Pump rear support bar nut and bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Pump mounting bracket-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Pump pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 127 to 9
Fluid hose-to-pinion housing bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2615 to 19
Fluid pressure hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 to 3119 to 23
Fluid return hose-to-pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2012 to 15
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type incorporating coil
springs and integral telescopic shock
absorbers. The lower end of each strut is
attached to a hub carrier, which carries the
wheel hub and bearings, and the brake
assembly. The lower end of each hub carrier
is attached to a suspension lower arm by a
sealed balljoint. The inboard ends of the lower
arms are attached to the front suspension
crossmember and the lower arms thus
provide lateral location for the strut
assemblies. The upper end of each strut is
bolted to a suspension turret on the vehicle
body. An anti-roll bar is mounted to the rear of
the lower arms, and resists the roll tendency
of the front suspension.
On Saloon, Hatchback and Estate models,
the rear suspension is also of independent
type, incorporating semi-trailing arms, coil
springs and telescopic shock absorbers. The
semi-trailing arms are attached to the
suspension crossmember at their forward
ends, and to the hub carriers at the rear. Thecoil springs are located between the
semi-trailing arms and the vehicle underbody.
On Saloon and Hatchback models, the shock
absorbers are mounted behind the coil
springs, but on Estate models they are
concentric with the coil springs. On some
Estate models the shock absorbers are of the
self-levelling type. The suspension
crossmember is attached to the vehicle
underbody, and to the final drive unit. Certain
models are fitted with an anti-roll bar which is
mounted to the rear of the final drive unit, and
is attached to the semi-trailing arms by
connecting links.
The rear suspension on P100 models
consists of a beam axle located and
supported by a leaf spring on each side, and
utilizing telescopic shock absorbers to control
vertical movement. The hub and brake
assemblies are attached directly to each side
of the axle. The axle is bolted to the leaf
springs using U-bolts and counterplates, and
the shock absorbers are attached to the
counterplates at their lower ends and the
vehicle underbody at their upper ends.
The steering gear is of the conventional
rack and pinion type located ahead of the
front wheels. Movement of the steering wheelis transmitted to the steering gear by means
of a shaft containing a universal joint. The
front hub carriers are connected to the
steering gear by tie-rods, each having an inner
and outer balljoint. Power-assisted steering is
available on some models, assistance being
provided hydraulically by an engine-driven
pump.
Removal
1Remove the steering gear.
2Support the engine with a jack and
interposed block of wood under the sump.
3Unscrew and remove the engine mounting
nuts from the top of the mountings in the
engine bay (see illustration).
4Raise the engine slightly with the jack, and
ensure that it is safely supported, and just
clear of the engine mounting rubbers.
5Unscrew and remove the nuts, washers and
pivot bolts securing the lower arms to the
crossmember, and pull the arms from the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt heads
face to the rear of the vehicle.
2Front suspension crossmember
-removalandrefitting
1General information
Suspension and steering 11•3
11

6Where applicable, remove the brake pipes
from the clips on the crossmember, taking
care not to strain them, and detach any cables
or electrical leads which may be secured with
clips or cable-ties, noting their positions.
7Support the crossmember with a jack, then
unscrew and remove the four mounting bolts
(see illustration).
8Lower the crossmember and withdraw it
from under the vehicle.
9If desired, the engine mountings can now
be unbolted from the crossmember.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear
in mind the following points.
11Do not tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
until the weight of the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. This is to prevent “wind up” of the
rubber bushes which will occur when the
vehicle is lowered if the bolts have been
tightened with no load on the suspension. The
following procedure must be used when
tightening the pivot bolts. Tighten the bolt to
the specified “clamping” torque, then loosen
the bolt fully. Re-tighten to the specified
“snug” torque and then further tighten the bolt
through the specified angle.
12Refit any cables or electrical leads in their
original positions, where applicable.
13When lowering the engine onto its
mountings, ensure that the locating pegs on
the mountings engage with the holes in the
mounting brackets.
Note: A balljoint separator tool will be
required for this operation.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable) (see
illustration).4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Remove the split pin and unscrew the
castellated nut from the lower arm balljoint.
Using a balljoint separator tool, disconnect
the lower arm from the hub carrier. The lower
arm can now be withdrawn from the vehicle.
Recover the remaining dished washer and
plastic cover (where applicable) from the end
of the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
6If the lower arm has been removed due to a
worn balljoint, the complete arm must be
renewed.
7The anti-roll bar compliance bushes can be
renewed as described in Section 8, but note
that the bushes on both sides of the vehicle
must be renewed at the same time. The lower
arm inner pivot bush can be renewed as
described in Section 9.
Refitting
8To refit the lower arm, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washer (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic cover
(where applicable) to the end of the anti-roll
bar, then refit the lower arm to the anti-roll
bar. Fit the remaining plastic cover (where
applicable) and the deep dished washer
(colour coded yellow or black) and refit the
securing nut. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage. Note that the convex faces of the
dished washers must face the lower arm.10Reconnect the balljoint to the hub carrier,
refit the castellated nut and tighten to the
specified torque. Fit a new split pin.
11Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
12Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
13Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: A spring compressor tool will be
required if the strut is to be dismantled.
Removal
1Loosen the relevant front roadwheel nuts,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the roadwheel. On P100 models
mark the position of the roadwheel in relation
to one of the wheel studs before removal.
3Remove the front brake caliper but do not
disconnect the hydraulic hose. Support the
caliper on an axle stand to avoid straining the
hose.
4Where applicable, unbolt the ABS wheel
sensor from the hub carrier and detach the
wire from the clip on the strut. Unplug the
connector and place the sensor to one side.
5Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt which
secures the hub carrier to the strut. Using a
suitable lever, such as a cold chisel, lever the
hub carrier clamp legs and wedge them apart.
6Lever the suspension lower arm
downwards to separate the hub carrier from
the bottom of the strut.
4Front suspension strut -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3Front suspension lower arm -
removal,overhaul and refitting
11•4Suspension and steering
2.3 Engine mounting nut (arrowed)
3.3 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut (arrowed)3.2 Front suspension lower arm-to-
crossmember pivot bolt and nut
2.7 Front suspension crossmember
mounting bolts (arrowed)

1Remove the hub carrier.
2Reverse the roadwheel nuts and screw
them fully onto the studs to protect the
threads, then mount the hub carrier assembly
in a vice as shown (see illustration).
3Prise the dust cap from the rear of the hub
carrier, and unscrew the hub nut with a
suitable socket. Note that on all models
manufactured before late December 1982,
both left and right-hand nuts have a
right-hand thread, but as from this date,
left-hand thread assemblies were
progressively fitted to the right-hand hub
carrier. The modified right-hand hub can be
identified by the letter “R” stamped on its
outer face, or by the colour of the hub nut
nylon insert, blue indicates a normal
right-hand thread, and yellow indicates a
left-hand thread.
4Remove the splined washer, and tap the
hub carrier from the drive flange. Recover the
bearing inner race and rollers from the inner
end of the hub carrier (see illustration).
5Prise the oil seal from the outer end of the
hub carrier and remove the remaining bearing
inner race and rollers.
6Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.
7Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
8Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
9Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub camber.
10Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note that onearly models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this early type of seal should be replaced
with the later type which has a metal casing.
The oil seal should be renewed regardless of
type, and a new seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel bearings.
11With the drive flange mounted in a vice, as
during dismantling, tap the hub carrier onto
the drive flange.
12Fit the inner bearing assembly, tapping it
into place with a metal tube of suitable
diameter if necessary, and fit the splined
washer. Note that the bearings are self-setting
on assembly, and no subsequent adjustment
is required.
13Refit the hub nut and tighten it to the
specified torque.
14Tap the dust cap into position in the hub
carrier.
15Remove the assembly from the vice,
remove the roadwheel nuts, and refit the hub
carrier.
Removal
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Do not jack the vehicle up
at this stage. Apply the handbrake.2Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts securing each of
the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the vehicle
underbody (see illustrations).
3Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
4Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts and recover the dished washers
and plastic covers, where applicable (see
illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing one of the lower arms to
the crossmember, and pull the end of the
lower arm from the crossmember.
6Pull the anti-roll bar from the bush in the
“free” lower arm then slide the anti-roll bar
from the remaining fixed lower arm. Recover
the remaining dished washers and plastic
covers (where applicable) from the ends of the
anti-roll bar.
7If necessary, the anti-roll bar compliance
bushes can be renewed as described in
Section 8, and the anti-roll bar U-clamp
bushes can be renewed by sliding them off
the ends of the bar. Note that although the
U-clamp bushes are of a split design, they
should not be levered open to aid fitting, and
the new bushes must be slid on from the ends
of the anti-roll bar. The bushes should always
be renewed in pairs.
7Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
6Front wheel bearings - renewal
11•6Suspension and steering
6.2 Front hub carrier mounted in vice to
unscrew hub nut
7.2b . . . unscrew the bolts and remove the
anti-roll bar U-clamps7.2a Bend back the locktabs (arrowed) . . .
6.4 Front hub components
A Dust cap
B Hub nutC Splined washer
D Taper roller bearingE Bearing outer race
F Hub carrierG Oil seal
H Drive flange

Refitting
8To refit the anti-roll bar, proceed as follows.
9Fit the shallow dished washers (colour
coded black or green) and the plastic covers
(where applicable) to the ends of the anti-roll
bar, then push the anti-roll bar through the
bushes in the lower arms. Fit the remaining
plastic covers (where applicable) and the
deep dished washers (colour coded yellow or
black) and loosely fit the securing nuts. Note
that the convex faces of the dished washers
must face the lower arm. Do not tighten the
nuts fully at this stage.
10Locate the “free” lower arm inner pivot
bush in the crossmember, and refit the pivot
bolt, washer and nut. If necessary, push the
outer rim of the roadwheel in order to line up
the holes in the lower arm bush and the
crossmember. Note that the pivot bolt head
should face to the rear of the vehicle. Do not
tighten the bolt at this stage.
11Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels.
12Refit the anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Note that various different
types of clamping components have been
used during production, and if any of the
components are to be renewed, it is important
to retain the old components for identification
when ordering new parts. The same type of
clamp assembly must be used on both sides
of the vehicle. Tighten the bolts evenly on
each clamp to the specified torque. Where
applicable, secure the bolts with the locktabs.
13Bounce the vehicle to settle the
suspension, then tighten the lower arm pivot
bolt, following the procedure given in Section 2.
14Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nuts to the specified torque.
15Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.Note: The compliance bushes must be
renewed in vehicle sets, therefore the bushes
on both sides of the vehicle must be renewed
at the same time. If plastic covers were not
originally fitted between the dished washers
and the bushes, suitable covers should be
obtained for fitting during reassembly.
1Remove the anti-roll bar.
2Using a thin-bladed chisel or screwdriver,
carefully prise out the compliance bushes
from the lower arms.
3Tap the new bushes into place using a
suitable socket or tube drift (see illustration).
4Some vehicles may have small rubber
spacer washers fitted to the ends of the
anti-roll bar, and these should be discarded
on reassembly.
5Refit the anti-roll bar.
1To improve access, raise the front of the
vehicle on ramps. Apply the handbrake.
2Unscrew and remove the nut, washer and
pivot bolt securing the relevant lower arm to
the crossmember.
3Remove the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut and recover the dished washer
and plastic cover (where applicable).
4Ensure that the handbrake is applied, jack
up the front of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Pull the inner end of the lower arm from the
crossmember.
6The pivot bush can now be removed from
the lower arm using a long bolt with nut,
washers and a suitable metal tube.
7Lubricate the new bush with soapy water,
and fit with a single continuous action to avoiddeformation of the bush, again using the bolt,
nut, washers and tube.
8Locate the end of the lower arm in the
crossmember, and refit the pivot bolt, washer
and nut. If necessary, push the outer rim of
the roadwheel in order to line up the holes in
the lower arm bush and the crossmember.
Note that the pivot bolt head should face to
the rear of the vehicle. Do not tighten the bolt
at this stage.
9Refit the plastic cover, dished washer
(where applicable), and nut to the end of the
anti-roll bar. Do not tighten the nut at this
stage.
10Lower the vehicle so that its weight is
resting on the roadwheels, and bounce the
vehicle to settle the suspension.
11Tighten the lower arm pivot bolt, following
the procedure given in Section 2.
12Tighten the anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
securing nut to the specified torque.
13Lower the vehicle from the ramps, if not
already done.
Note: From May 1986, revised final drive unit
rear mounting bolts have been used in
production. Whenever the earlier type of bolts
are removed, they should be discarded and
the later type fitted. The earlier bolts are
coloured blue, and the later type bolts are
coloured gold.
Removal
1Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). It
is only strictly necessary to jack up the rear of
the vehicle, but this provides only limited
access. Note that the axle stands should be
positioned under the side members.
2Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie. from the joint.
3Remove the propeller shaft.
4Disconnect the handbrake equaliser from
the operating rod by removing the circlip and
10Rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
9Front suspension lower arm
inner pivot bush - renewal
8Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm
compliance bushes - renewal
Suspension and steering 11•7
11
8.3 Tapping a front anti-roll bar-to-lower
arm compliance bush into position
7.4 Front anti-roll bar-to-lower arm mounting
A Rear (black or green) shallow dished
washer
B Plastic cover (where applicable)
C Compliance bushes
D Plastic cover (where applicable)
E Front (yellow or black) deep dished
washer

pivot pin. Take care not to lose the
components (see illustration).
5Remove the brake cable sheaths from their
brackets on the vehicle underbody.
6Unscrew the brake pipes from the brake
hoses at the brackets on the vehicle
underbody. Plug the ends of the pipes and
hoses to prevent leakage and dirt ingress,
then detach the hoses from the brackets by
removing the U-shaped retaining clips (see
illustration).
7Where applicable, disconnect the ABS
sensors, and detach the leads from the clips
on the lower arms.
8Place suitable blocks beneath the rear
wheels, then lower the vehicle so that the rear
coil springs are lightly loaded. Reposition the
axle stands under the side members.
9Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
10Where applicable, unscrew and remove
the two anti-roll bar mountings from the
underbody.
11Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing each of the front guide plates to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tabs on the larger bolts.
12Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the final drive unit rear mounting to
the underbody. Note the location and number
of any shims which may be fitted (see
illustration).
13Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
disconnect the shock absorber upper
mountings. On Saloon and Hatchbackmodels, access is gained by removing the
trim covers behind the side cushions. Each
cover is secured by two self-tapping screws,
and the shock absorber is secured by a bolt
and nut. On Estate models, fold down the rear
seat backrest, fold back the floor covering
and remove the front section of the luggage
compartment floor, which is secured with 12
self-tapping screws. Remove the nut and
washer from the shock absorber.
14Using a jack and a wooden beam
positioned beneath the longitudinal
underbody side members, raise the rear of the
vehicle until the rear suspension and final
drive unit assembly can be withdrawn from
under the vehicle.
15If desired, the assembly can be
dismantled with reference to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter and Chapter 9.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
17Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolts by bending up the
lockwasher tabs.
18Ensure that the coil springs are located
correctly on their seats on the vehicle
underbody.
19When refitting the final drive rear mounting
to the underbody, refit any shims in their original
noted positions, and fit the bolts with reference
to the note at the beginning of this Section.
20Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
21On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake. With the vehicle level,
check the final drive unit oil level.
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Remove the relevant driveshaft.
3Remove the handbrake cable from the clip
on the lower arm.
4Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm. Plug the
ends of the pipe and hose to prevent leakage
and dirt ingress, then detach the hose from
the bracket by removing the U-shaped
retaining clip (see illustration).
5Unscrew the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder on the brake backplate and plug the
end of the pipe and the cylinder to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
6Unscrew the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the lower arm and tie the
backplate to one side.
7Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
8Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
9Remove the shock absorber.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember
(see illustration). Where applicable, bend
back the lockwasher tab(s) on the larger bolt.
11Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring and rubber cup.
12Note the orientation of the two lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
then unscrew and remove them and withdraw
the lower arm from under the vehicle (see
illustration).
13If the lower arm is to be renewed, unclip
the brake pipe, and refit to the new arm.
14If required, the pivot bushes may be
renewed using a long bolt, nut, washers and a
suitable metal tube. Lubricate the new bushes
with soapy water before fitting.
11Rear suspension lower arm
(Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models) -removaland
refitting
11•8Suspension and steering
10.4 Handbrake equaliser-to-operating rod
circlip and pivot pin (arrowed)10.11 Rear suspension front guide plate -
lockwasher arrowed
11.4 Brake pipe bracket on lower arm. U-
shaped retaining clip arrowed10.12 Final drive unit-to-underbody rear
mounting
10.6 Rear underbody brake pipe bracket -
U-shaped hose retaining clip arrowed

Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
16Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
17Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
18On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Models with rear disc brakes
Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the drive flange, and a new rear hub
nut must be used on reassembly.
Removal
19With the vehicle resting on its wheels,
loosen the rear hub nut. A suitable extension
bar will be required, as the nut is extremely
tight. Note that the left-hand nut has a
left-hand thread, ie it is undone in a clockwise
direction. Before loosening the nut, ensure
that the handbrake is applied, and chock the
relevant rear wheel.
20Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, jack
up the rear of the car and support on axle
stands placed under the side members.
21Remove the rear roadwheel.
22Remove the rear section of the exhaust
system - ie from the joint.
23Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the lower arm (see
illustration). Plug the ends of the pipe and
hose to prevent leakage and dirt ingress, then
detach the hose from the bracket by removing
the U-shaped retaining clip.
24Remove the handbrake cable from the
clip on the lower arm.
25Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it to one
side, taking care not to strain the brake hose.
26Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the hub, remove the retaining spire
washer(s), and remove the disc.
27Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid strainingthe joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
28Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller pull off the drive flange.
29Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield.
Note that the stub axle is retained in the hub
carrier.
30Disconnect the ABS sensor, and detach
the lead from the clip on the lower arm.
31Remove the propeller shaft.
32Proceed as shown in paragraphs 7 to 14
inclusive.
Refitting
33Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
34Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tabs.
35When refitting the hub carrier to the lower
arm note that there are two types of bolts used
. The two types of bolt must not be mixed on a
vehicle, but can be changed in complete sets
for the alternative type. A complete set is eight
bolts, four each side. Note that the two types
of bolt have different torque wrench settings.
When renewing the wheel bearings a suitable
puller will be required to remove the drive
flange, and a new rear hub nut must be used
on reassembly.36When refitting the drive flange to the hub
assembly, use a new hub nut, and leave
tightening until the vehicle is resting on its
wheels. Apply the handbrake and chock the
relevant rear wheel when tightening the nut.
37When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and hub.
38Before tightening the lower
arm-to-crossmember pivot bolts and nuts,
lower the vehicle so that its weight is resting
on the roadwheels, and bounce the vehicle to
settle the suspension. Ensure that the bolts
are orientated as noted during removal.
39On completion, bleed the brakes and
adjust the handbrake.
Saloon and Hatchback models
1With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt and nut from the relevant
lower arm (see illustration). If desired, the
rear of the vehicle can be raised on ramps to
improve access.
2Working inside the rear of the vehicle,
remove the trim cover behind the side
cushion. The cover is secured by two
self-tapping screws (see illustrations).
12Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering 11•9
11
11.23 Rear suspension lower arm brake
pipe brackets (arrowed)
A Left-hand bracketB Right-hand bracket
12.1 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
- Saloon and Hatchback models
11.12 Lower arm-to-crossmember inner
pivot11.10 Rear suspension front guide plate
12.2a Remove the trim cover . . .

3With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting bolt and nut. Withdraw
the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts securely.
Estate models
Note: On models fitted with heavy duty
Nivomat shock absorbers, follow the
procedure given in Section 13, as the shock
absorber and coil spring are an integrated unit.
5With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to unscrew
and remove the two shock absorber lower
mounting bolts from the relevant lower arm(see
illustration).If desired, the rear of the vehicle
can be raised on ramps to improve access.
6Working inside the rear of the vehicle, fold
down the rear seat backrest, fold back the
floor covering and remove the front section of
the luggage compartment floor, which is
secured with 12 self-tapping screws.
7With an assistant supporting the shock
absorber from below, unscrew and remove
the upper mounting nut and washer (see
illustration). Withdraw the shock absorber
from under the vehicle.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts and nut securely.
P100 models
9With the weight of the vehicle resting on the
roadwheels, work under the vehicle to
unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting nut, washer, and rubber
insulator. If desired, the rear of the vehicle can
be raised on ramps to improve access.10Unscrew and remove the top mounting
bolt, nut and washer from the chassis
crossmember. Withdraw the shock absorber
upwards.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolt and nut securely.
Models with rear drum brakes
1Remove the relevant driveshaft.
2Unscrew the brake pipe from the brake
hose at the bracket on the vehicle underbody.
Plug the ends of the pipe and hose to prevent
leakage and dirt ingress.
3Where applicable, prise the anti-roll bar
connecting strap from the lower arm.
4Support the lower arm on a jack, and raise
it slightly to place the coil spring under load.
5On Saloon and Hatchback models, unscrew
and remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt and nut from the lower arm.
6On Estate models fitted with standard
shock absorbers, remove the shock absorber
as described in Section 12. On Estate models
fitted with heavy duty Nivomat shock
absorbers, disconnect the upper and lower
mountings.
7Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.8Lower the lower arm, and remove the coil
spring, or coil spring/heavy duty shock
absorber as applicable, and the rubber cup.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).
11Refit the driveshaft.
12On completion, bleed the brakes.
Models with rear disc brakes
13Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
14Disconnect the driveshaft from the hub
assembly by unscrewing the six securing
bolts. Support the driveshaft to avoid straining
the joints, or alternatively, unbolt it from the
final drive unit at the inboard end and remove
the driveshaft from the vehicle. At all times,
avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
15Proceed as shown in paragraphs 2 to 8
inclusive.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal. Where
applicable, secure the larger front guide plate
bolt by bending up the lockwasher tab(s), and
on completion, bleed the brakes.
Saloon, Hatchback and Estate
models
With rear drum brakes
Note: There are two types of bolts used to
secure the rear hub carrier to the lower arm
(see illustration). The two types of bolt must
not be mixed on a vehicle, but can be changed
in complete sets for the alternative type. A
complete set is eight bolts, four each side.
Note that the two types of bolt have different
torque wrench settings. When renewing the
wheel bearings a suitable puller will be
required to remove the drive flange, and a new
rear hub nut must be used on reassembly.
1Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. On early models, relieve
the staking before loosening the nut (see
illustration). Later models use self-locking
14Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
13Rear coil spring (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - removal and refitting
11•10Suspension and steering
12.5 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolts - Estate models
14.1a Alternative types of rear hub carrier-
to-lower arm securing bolts12.7 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
(arrowed) - Estate models
12.2b . . . for access to the rear shock
absorber upper mounting
14.1b On early models relieve the staking
(arrowed) on the rear hub nut

nuts, and it is important to note that where
this type of nut is fitted, the left-hand nut has
a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
2Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the side
concerned, chock the front wheels, and jack
up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Remove the rear roadwheel.
3Remove the brake drum retaining spire
washer(s) from the wheel stud(s) and remove
the brake drum. Ensure that the handbrake is
released before removing the brake drum,
otherwise the drum will be held in place by the
clamping action of the brake shoes.
4Remove the two nylon fasteners, and
remove the plastic shield from the rear of the
brake backplate (see illustration).
5Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut.
6Using a suitable puller, pull the drive flange
from the end of the driveshaft (see
illustration).
7Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the hub carrier and brake backplate
to the lower arm (see illustration). Remove
the hub carrier, whilst supporting the
driveshaft. Support the driveshaft by placing
axle stands underneath it, or by securing with
string to the underbody. Note that the
driveshaft joints should not be allowed to
deflect through an angle exceeding 13º.
8Refit the brake backplate with the four
securing bolts to avoid straining the brake
pipe.
9With the hub carrier removed, the bearings
can be renewed as follows (see illustration).
10Prise the inner and outer oil seals from the
hub carrier using a suitable screwdriver, and
withdraw the taper roller bearings.
11Using a soft metal drift, drive the bearing
outer races from the hub carrier, taking care
not to damage the inner surface of the carrier.12Clean the hub carrier and drive flange with
paraffin, wipe dry and examine for damage
and wear. Note that the components are
machined to very close tolerances, and the
bearings are supplied in matched pairs,
therefore scrupulous cleanliness must be
observed.
13Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
drive the new bearing outer races fully into the
hub carrier. Ensure that the races are seated
correctly.
14Pack the inner bearing races and rollers
with high-melting-point lithium-based grease,
and locate the outer bearing assembly in the
hub carrier.
15Fill the cavities between the sealing lips of
the oil seal with grease, then drive it fully into
the hub carrier using a block of wood or a
metal tube of suitable diameter. Note than on
early models the oil seal has a rubber casing,
and this type of seal should be replaced with
the later type which has a metal casing. The
oil seal should be renewed regardless of type,
and a new oil seal of the correct type is
normally supplied with the new wheel
bearings.
16Repeat the procedure shown in
paragraphs 14 and 15 for the outer bearing
and oil seal.17Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then remove
the securing bolts from the brake backplate,
and using a soft-faced mallet, drive the drive
flange/hub carrier assembly onto the end of
the driveshaft.
18Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
19Refit the hub carrier/brake
backplate-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
20Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel. If a staked type nut is
used, lock the nut by staking its outer ring into
the groove in the driveshaft.
With rear disc brakes
Note: See note.at the beginning of this Section
21Loosen the rear hub nut with the vehicle
resting on its wheels. Note that the left-hand
nut has a left-hand thread, ie. it is undone in a
clockwise direction. Before loosening the nut,
ensure that the handbrake is applied, and
chock the relevant rear wheel. A suitable
extension bar will be required, as the nut is
extremely tight.
Suspension and steering 11•11
11
14.6 Pull the drive flange from the end of
the driveshaft
14.9 Rear hub carrier components - Saloon, Hatchback and
Estate models
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearingC Hub carrier
D Inner bearingE Inner oil seal14.7 Rear hub carrier/brake backplate-to-lower arm securing
bolts
14.4 Remove the nylon fasteners (arrowed)
to free the plastic shield from the brake
backplate

22Loosen the rear roadwheel nuts on the
side concerned, chock the front wheels, and
jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on
axle stands. Remove the roadwheel and
release the handbrake.
23Unbolt the brake caliper carrier bracket
and support the caliper on an axle stand,
taking care not to strain the flexible hose.
24Mark the position of the brake disc in
relation to the drive flange, remove the
retaining spire washer(s), and remove the disc.
25Unscrew and remove the rear hub nut,
and using a puller, pull off the drive flange.
26Unscrew the four bolts securing the hub
carrier and splash shield to the lower arm.
Remove the hub carrier and splash shield,
whilst supporting the driveshaft. Support the
driveshaft by placing axle stands underneath
it, or by securing with string to the underbody.
Avoid bending the driveshaft joints to
excessive angles, and do not allow the shaft
to hang down from one end.
27With the hub carrier removed, the
bearings can be renewed as described in
paragraphs 10 to 16 of this Section.
28Fit the drive flange to the hub carrier in
order to centralise the bearings, then using a
soft-faced mallet, drive the drive flange/hub
carrier assembly onto the end of the stub axle.
Do not forget to fit the splash shield.
29Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
bearing in mind the following points.
30Refit the hub carrier/splash
shield-to-lower arm securing bolts with
reference to the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section.
31When refitting the brake disc, align the
previously made marks on disc and drive
flange.
32Fit a new rear hub nut of the correct type,
and tighten it with the vehicle resting on its
roadwheels. Apply the handbrake and chock
the relevant rear wheel.
P100 models
Note: A new rear hub nut must be used on
reassembly.
33Remove the relevant driveshaft.
34Relieve the staking on the rear hub nut,
and using a 50 mm socket and an extension
bar, unscrew the nut. Note that the nut is
extremely tight.
35Pull off the hub, and remove the O-ring
and spacer sleeve from the recess in the hub
(see illustration).
36Prise the oil seal from the rear of the hub
using a screwdriver.
37Using a block of wood, or a suitable metal
tube inserted from the rear of the hub, tap out
the ball-bearing.
38Clean the hub with paraffin, wipe dry and
examine for damage and wear.
39Using a metal tube of suitable diameter,
resting on the bearing outer race only, tap the
new bearing into the hub. Ensure that the
bearing is correctly seated.
40Carefully fit a new oil seal to the rear of the
hub, using a suitable metal tube.41Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
42Fit a new rear hub nut, and stake in
position after tightening to the specified
torque.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the relevant front guide plate to the
underbody and the suspension crossmember.
Where applicable, bend back the lockwasher
tab(s) on the larger bolt.
3Using a length of wood, lever the
suspension crossmember downwards a few
inches from the underbody, and insert the
wood as a wedge.
4Using a tool similar to the Ford special tool
shown (see illustration), or a long bolt with
nut, washers and a suitable metal tube, pull
the mounting rubber from the crossmember.
5Lubricate the new mounting rubber with
soapy water, and use the tool described in the
previous paragraph to press the rubber into
the crossmember.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
Where applicable, secure the larger front
guide plate bolt by bending up the lockwasher
tab(s).Note: From May 1986, revised rear
suspension/final drive unit rear mounting bolts
have been used in production. Whenever the
earlier type of bolts are removed, they should
be discarded and the later type fitted. The
earlier bolts are coloured blue, and the later
type bolts are coloured gold.
1Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support on axle stands placed
under the side members.
2Support the final drive unit with a jack,
using an interposed block of wood to spread
the load.
3Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the mounting to the underbody. Note
the location and number of any shims which
may be fitted.
4Lower the final drive unit sufficiently to
enable the mounting to be unbolted from the
final drive unit rear cover (see illustration).
16Rear suspension/final drive
unit rear mounting (Saloon,
Hatchback and Estate
models) - renewal
15Rear suspension front
mounting (Saloon, Hatchback
and Estate models) - renewal
11•12Suspension and steering
15.4 Ford special tool 15-014 for removing
rear suspension front mounting rubber
14.35 Rear hub components - P100 models
A Oil seal
B Hub
C Ball-bearingD Hub nut
E Spacer sleeve
F O-ring
16.4 Rear suspension/final drive unit rear
mounting-to-final drive unit rear cover
bolts