brake GMC CANYON 2010 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: GMC, Model Year: 2010, Model line: CANYON, Model: GMC CANYON 2010Pages: 448, PDF Size: 2.62 MB
Page 237 of 448

Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, consider:
•How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
•What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
•Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?
Boulders?
•What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep
the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear
so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have
to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the
vehicle under control at all times.
{WARNING:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause
your brakes to overheat and fade. This could
cause loss of control and a serious accident.
Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill
and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under
control.Things not to do when driving down a hill:
•When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too
steep to drive down might be too steep to drive
across. The vehicle could roll over.
•Never go downhill with the transmission in
N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will
have to do all the work and could overheat
and fade.
Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill,
but if it happens when going downhill:
1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes and
apply the parking brake.
2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still braking, restart the
engine.
3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.
4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.
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Page 240 of 448

Driving in Water
{WARNING:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if
you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine.
When going through water, remember that when the
brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. SeeDriving
in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 5-26.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
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Page 242 of 448

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or flowing water.
{WARNING:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of the
vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a
car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until
the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
Driving through flowing water could cause your
vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you
and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not
ignore police warnings and be very cautious about
trying to drive through flowing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
•Allow extra following distance.
•Pass with caution.
•Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
•Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 6-57.
•Turn off cruise control.
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Page 244 of 448

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
•Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
•Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
•Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{WARNING:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{WARNING:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
•Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
•Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
•Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 5-13for information
about driving off-road.
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Page 245 of 448

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.TheStabiliTrak
®System on page 5-6improves the
ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When
driving through deep snow, it might be beneficial to turn
off the traction control part of the StabiliTrak
®System
to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds.
Once beyond the deep snow, push the StabiliTrak
®
button again to turn traction control back on.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads,
but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry
pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when
the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
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Page 259 of 448

3. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking brake.
SeeParking Brake on page 3-30.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
{WARNING:
Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the
vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is
in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any
gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure
the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer
case is shifted to N (Neutral).5. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into N (Neutral)” underFour-Wheel Drive on
page 3-25.
6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the
key — the front wheels will still turn.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
After towing see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 3-25.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven
for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the
negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the
battery from draining.
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Page 261 of 448

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dolly tow a
four-wheel-drive vehicle from the front:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the front wheels onto the dolly.
3. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in 1 (First).
4. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking brake.
SeeParking Brake on page 3-30.
{WARNING:
Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the
vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is
in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any
gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure
the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer
case is shifted to N (Neutral).
5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into N (Neutral)” underFour-Wheel Drive on
page 3-25.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 3-25.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven
for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the
negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the
battery from draining.
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Page 262 of 448

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dolly tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.3. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 3-30.
4. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in 1 (First).
5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for
towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked
into the straight position.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or
driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery
cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery
to prevent the battery from draining.
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Page 263 of 448

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dolly tow a
four-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.
3. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 3-30.
4. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in 1 (First).5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for
towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked
into the straight position.
{WARNING:
Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the
vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is
in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any
gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure
the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer
case is shifted to N (Neutral).
7. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into N (Neutral)” underFour-Wheel Drive on
page 3-25.
8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or
driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery
cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery
to prevent the battery from draining.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 3-25.
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Page 264 of 448

Towing a Trailer
{WARNING:
The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if
the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is
not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is
too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. The driver and passengers could be
seriously injured. The vehicle may also be
damaged; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only
if all the steps in this section have been followed.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with the vehicle.Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly,
follow the advice in this section and see your
dealer/retailer for important information about
towing a trailer with the vehicle.
To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the
information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears
later in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
The following information has many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these
are important for your safety and that of your passengers.
So please read this section carefully before pulling a
trailer.
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