tow GMC ENVOY 2009 Workshop Manual

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 5-24.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-34.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-24.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-39.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-33.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-35.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-113.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-38.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Flip the handle up and then remove the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
The automatic
transmission dipstick
handle with this symbol on
it is located in the engine
compartment on the
passenger side of the
vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.
2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again. If the dipstick does
not go down the tube easily, turn the blade and
try again until it is fully inserted in the tube.3. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or
in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an
accurate reading.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall
the dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-23

If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam
can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when the vehicle:
Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
Stops after high-speed driving.
Idles for long periods in traffic.
Tows a trailer.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam:
1. Turn the air conditioning off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let
the engine idle.
If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer
displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drivethe vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe
vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the
warning does not come back on, continue to drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three
minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed,
turn off the engine until it cools down.Engine Fan Noise
The vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions
the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages so you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when the engine is
started. The sound will go away as the fan clutch
disengages.
5-32

Bulb Replacement
For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see
Replacement Bulbs on page 5-49.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this
section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and
can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or
others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow
the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps
To replace one of these bulbs:
1. Open the hood.Hood Release on page 5-11.
2. Lift the two headlamp retaining clips.3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle
to access the electrical connectors.
4. Remove the cover from the headlamp bulb.
5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it.
6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old bulb.
7. Plug the electrical connector into the new bulb using
care not to touch the glass with your ngers.
8. Turn the socket clockwise to reinstall it.
9. Reinstall the headlamp cover.
10. Push the headlamp assembly toward the vehicle.
11. Press down on the headlamp retaining clips to
secure the headlamp assembly.
5-46

{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a
cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure
to use a scraper or wire brush later, if
needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See
Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-88.
Make sure the spare tire, if the vehicle has one, is
stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or
turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the cable. See
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on
page 5-100.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
inuence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which appear
when your tires have only
1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less
of tread remaining. Some
commercial truck tires
may not have treadwear
indicators.
5-69

Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough
clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the
proper amount of clearance can cause damage to
the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The
area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to
lose control of the vehicle and you or others may be
injured in a crash. Use another type of traction
device only if its manufacturer recommends it for
use on the vehicle and tire size combination and
road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s
instructions. To help avoid damage to the vehicle,
drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is
contacting the vehicle, and do not spin the wheels.
If you do nd traction devices that will t, install
them on the rear tires.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much
like a skid and may require the same correction you
would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle
under control by steering the way you want the vehicle
to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can
still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road
if possible.
5-76

The tools you will be using include:
A. Wheel Wrench
B. Wheel Blocks
C. Extension(s)
(Socket End)D. Handle (Jack End)
E. JackTo remove the underbody-mounted spare from your
vehicle:
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to
the storage position under the vehicle while it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the tire
and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a tire
when the vehicle is on the ground.
A. Wheel Wrench
B. Hoist Shaft
C. Extension
D. Retainer
E. Spare or Flat Tire
(Valve Stem
Pointed Up)
1. Open the liftgate. SeeLiftgate/Liftglass on
page 2-12for more information.
2. Attach the wheel wrench (A) to the extension (C).
5-90

8. Remove all the wheel
nuts and the at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is
fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after
time. The wheel could come off and cause an
accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust
or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-88.9. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
10. Place the spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
11. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone
shaped end is toward the wheel.
12. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut cannot be turned by
hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer
as soon as possible.
5-95

2. If visible, rst try to tighten the cable by turning the
wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or
feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.
3. Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise three or four turns.
4. Repeat this procedure at least two times.
If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with
Step 2 ofRemoving the Spare Tire and Tools on
page 5-89.
5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Attach the jack handle, extension(s) and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle
towards the front of the rear bumper. Position
the center lift point of the jack under the center of
the spare tire.
7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end tting.
5-98

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and
Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose
equipment could strike someone. Store all these in
the proper place.
{CAUTION:
The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be
stored with the valve stem pointing up. If the
spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing
downward, its secondary latch will not work
properly and the spare tire could loosen and
suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened
when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might
contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury
and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure
the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its
valve stem pointing up.
Notice:An aluminum wheel with a at tire should
always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist.
However, storing it that way for an extended period
could damage the wheel. To avoid this, always stow
the wheel properly with the valve stem pointing up
and have the wheel repaired as soon as possible.
5-100