trailer GMC SIERRA 1995 User Guide

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle‘s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers on the Certification label at the rear
edge of the driver’s door
or see “Tire Loading“
in the Index. Then be sure you don‘t go over the
GVW limit for your vehicle, includins the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
e
e
If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped
foot. your bumper could be damaged
in sharp turns. Check the distance
from the front edge
of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If
the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue.
If you‘ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded,
will weigh more than
4,000 pounds
( 1 8 14 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control
of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will
not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install. adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system,
but consider the following:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system
will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~)
of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder.
Tf it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You
could even lose your brakes.
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Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 Wa) of Ijressure? If
not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes
are working.
‘This lets you check your electrical connection at the same \
time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left.
To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always back
up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
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Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in
the optional trailering package). The green arrows
on your instrument panel
will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for
turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If
you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 kmh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission
you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as
you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend
the life
of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and
you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to, a lower gear).
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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle
may show signs similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission
in PARK (Pj (or the manual transmission
out
of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating”
in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are
in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift
to PARK (P), or REVERSE (Rj for a manual transmission.
If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not in NEUTRAL
(N).
Release the regular brakes.
A CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is
not fully in
PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your
vehicle can rofl.
If you have Ieft the engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle
won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the
steps that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your
shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear
- not in NEUTRAL (N).
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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine:
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule
for more on this. Things that are especially
important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch
nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades’’ in the Index.
If
you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear while driving
- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or
DRIVE
(3) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If
the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see
if the warning stops.
But then, if
you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone
out of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an
increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the
fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot
off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly, Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of
the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your
foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute
Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure \
to
use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered
by
your warranty.
GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the
requirements for your vehicle.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you
think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly
important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and
go traffic).
Most trips are through dusty areas.
You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer.
If any one
of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil
and filter every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes
first.
Light Duty Emissions:
If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500
km) or 12 months - whichever comes first.
Heavy Duty Emissions:
If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles (10 000
km) or 12 months - whichever comes first.
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This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help
you select the correct oil.
You should look for this
on the oil container, and use only those oils that
display the logo.
GM Goodwrench‘ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the
requirements for your vehicle.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you
think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
See if any one of these is true for you:
0 Most trips are less than 5 to IO miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly
important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and
e 00 traffic).
0 You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.
0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
If any of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and
filter every
2,500 miles (4 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first.
If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every
5,000 miles (8 000
km) or 12 months - whichever comes first.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don‘t let used oil stay
on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water,
or
a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags
containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use
and disposal
of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat
to the environment. If you change your own oil,
be sure
to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t
ever dispose of oil by putting it
in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into
sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle
it by taking it to
a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of
your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you
have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading. the fluid should be at normal operating
temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).
If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (3) until the
engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes.
Then follow the hot check procedures.
To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more
with the engine off and is used only
as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F
(10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (IOOC), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a
cold check, you
must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will
give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each
gear range, pausing for about three seconds
in each range. Then,
position the shift lever
in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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