tow GMC SIERRA 1995 Owner's Guide

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can
write us at the address listed
in your Warranty and Owner Assistance
Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors
of Canada Limited
Customer Assistance Center
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario
Ll H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure
because
it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle
weight (GVW) includes
the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may
carry
in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will
tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to
the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle”
in the
Index
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
A B
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a
“weight-distributing” hitch,
the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the
total loaded trailer weight
(B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately,
to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
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Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 Wa) of Ijressure? If
not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes
are working.
‘This lets you check your electrical connection at the same \
time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left.
To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always back
up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
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Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in
the optional trailering package). The green arrows
on your instrument panel
will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for
turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If
you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 kmh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission
you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as
you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend
the life
of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and
you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to, a lower gear).
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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle
may show signs similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission
in PARK (Pj (or the manual transmission
out
of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating”
in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are
in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift
to PARK (P), or REVERSE (Rj for a manual transmission.
If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not in NEUTRAL
(N).
Release the regular brakes.
A CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is
not fully in
PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your
vehicle can rofl.
If you have Ieft the engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle
won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the
steps that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your
shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear
- not in NEUTRAL (N).
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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine:
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule
for more on this. Things that are especially
important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch
nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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To wing Your Vehicle
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your
vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow
it
without damage.
If your vehicle has been changed since
it was factory-new. by adding such
things like fog lamps, aero skirting,
or special tires and wheels, these things
could be damaged during towing.
Before you do anything,
turn on the hazard warning flashers.
When you call, tell the towing service:
0 That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel
drive option.
The make, model, and year of your vehicle.
0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and transfer
case,
if you have one.
If there was an accident. what was damaged.
A CAUTION:
To help avoid injury to you or others:
Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed.
0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
0 Never tow with damaged parts not fuIly secured.
0 Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the
tow truck.
0 Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a
vehicle.
0 For pickups (except cab chassis models), use T-hooks on front
. of vehicle, J-hooks on rear.
For cab chassis models, use J-hooks on front and rear of
vehicle.
When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering
wheel should be clamped
in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping
device designed for towing, service.
Do not use the vehicle’s steering
column lock for this. The transmission and transfer case, if
you have one,
should be
in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.
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A CAUTION:
A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately
secured. This can cause
a collision, serious personal injury and
vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with
chains or steel cables before it is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing,
etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed
vehicle.
Towing From the Front
If you have a two-wheel drive vehicle, don’t have your vehicle towed on
the rear wheels, unless
you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear
wheels, don’t
go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80
km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded,
then
the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly.
If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option and
the transfer case is
engaged, a dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the
front .
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lowing From the Rear
NOTICE:
Towing pickup models from the rear while loaded with heavy
cargo may cause the frame side rails to flex sufficiently
to allow
the pickup box to contact the cab and could cause damage to \
the
cab and/or box.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
0 Climb a long hill on a hot day.
0 Stop after high speed driving.
0 Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades’’ in the Index.
If
you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear while driving
- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or
DRIVE
(3) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If
the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see
if the warning stops.
But then, if
you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone
out of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may hear an
increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the
fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot
off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly, Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of
the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your
foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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