wheel GMC SIERRA 1995 Repair Manual

Changing the Tire
.
Start with the jack, the
jack handle and the
ratchet.
If
the flat tire is on the
rear of
the vehicle,
you’ll need the jack
handle extensions
also.
Attach the jack handle
(and jack handle
extension, if needed)
to the jack.
With the
Up marking
on the ratchet facing
you, rotate the ratchet
clockwise. That will
lift the jack head a
little.
Before
you start, put the spare tire near the flat tire. Remove the wheel trim
and loosen
the wheel nuts. The next part wi!l show you how to do these
things properly.
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Kemoving Wheel Trim
If your vehicle has
wheel
nut caps, use
the wheel wrench and
ratchet
to remove
them. Turn the wheel
wrench
counterclockwise.
with DOWN facing
you, to remove the
wheel
nut caps. Then
take off the hub cap.
If the wheel also has a trim ring. use the wheel wrench to pry along the edge
and remove
it.
If the wheel has a
smooth center piece or
a center piece with
recessed nuts, place
the wheel wrench
in
the slot on the wheel
and gently
pry out.
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Now, use the ratchet
and wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel
nuts.
Turn the wheel
wrench
counterclockwise,
with DOWN facing
you, to loosen the
wheel nuts.
Don’t remove the
wheel nuts yet.
If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, put the jack handle extension on
the jack handle.
Position the jack under the vehicle.
1 A CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the
vehicle slips
off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed.
Never get under a vehicle when
it is supported only by a jack.
NOTICE:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will
damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall
off the jack.
Be sure to
fit the jack lift head into the proper location before
raising your vehicle.
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Front rosluon Rear Position
With UP on the ratchet facing you, raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet
and wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle
far enough off the ground so
there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.
Remove
all the wheel
nuts and take
off the
flat tire,
A CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened,
can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel
could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel,
remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper
towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later,
if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
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Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare
wheel. Place the spare
on the wheel mounting surface.
A CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts
might come loose. Your wheel could fall
off, causing a serious
accident.
Replace the wheel
nuts with the rounded
end
of the nuts toward
the wheel.
Tighten each wheel
nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
Front Position Rear Position
Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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Tighten Clockwise Tightening Sequence
t
40
Tighten the
nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the wheel
wrench clockwise.
A CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can
cause the wheel to become loose and even come
off. This could
lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts.
If you
have to replace them, be sure to get the right kind.
Stop somewhere
as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened
with
a torque wrench to the proper torque.
For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
Put the wheel trim back on.
For vehicles with plastic wheel
nut caps, tighten the caps until they are
finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn
with the ratchet
and wheel wrench.
Remove any wheel blocks.
Remember, the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored
in
their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part,
“Storing the Tire and Jack,”
will show you how.
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I
A ,CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger
compartment
of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop
or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all
these
in the proper place.
Stowing the
Tire - Under-Body Carrier
Stow the flat tire under the rwr of the vehicle in spare tire carrier. To stow
the flat tire:
1.
AI 3
3.
4.
5.
Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stern
pointed down.
Pull the wheel retainer through thc wheel opening.
Attach the ratchet
to the urheel n'rench with the UP marking Facing
you.
Put the other end of the whcel wrench through the rcar bumper access
hole, located at the passenger side edge
of the license plate. Be sure the
wheel wrench connects into the hoist
shaft.
Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the tire. Keep turning the ratchet
until the tire is all the way up. You will hear two "clicks" when the tire
is secure. Pull on the tire to nuke sure it is tightly secured.
Stowing the Jack and Jacking Tools
Return the jack, ratchet, wheel wrench and jack extensions to their location
behind the passenger's
seat. Stow thc jack and jacking tools as shown in the
illustrations earlier
in this part. Secure the items and replace the jack cover,
if there is one.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels
too fast. The method known as ”rocking” can help you get out when you’re
stuck, but you nlust use caution.
A CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode and you
or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other par\
ts
of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin th\
e wheels
as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as
the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your
transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains”
in the Index.
Rocking
your vehicle to get it out:
First. turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE
(R) and a
forward gear (or
with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1 ) or
SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t get you
out after a few tries, you may need
to be towed out. Or, you can use your
recovery hooks,
if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out.
see “Towing Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
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What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to
use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index.
C3 (3500 H.D.) Trucks Equipped with Dana Rear Axle
Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required on 3500 H.D.
models equipped with Dana rear axles when they are driven under the
following conditions:
0 Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer towing, and:
Operation above 45 mph for extended periods of time
Vehicles used
in any of these conditions require the rear axle lubricant (SAE
8OW-90 - GL-5) be changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever
comes first.
To reduce required maintenance, SAE 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant
may be used. With the use of synthetic
SAE 75W-140 lubricant, the fluid
change intervals may be increased to 30,000 miles. Before using SAE
75W-140, it is important to drain and flush the axle with clean mineral
based (non-synthetic) axle lubricant. Fluid capacity is 4.12 qts. (3.9L).
Four- Wheel Drive
Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive
vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the
lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections”
in the Index.
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Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. If you have a C
3500 HD model, it has four-wheel disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched
warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The
sound may come and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving
(except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
I A CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your
brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. Whe\
n
you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle
serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in
costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the
brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is
wrong with your brakes.
If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you
ever hear
a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected.
Also, the rear brake drum should be removed and inspected each time the
tires are removed for rotation
or changing. When you have the front brakes
replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if
there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake
trouble.
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