wheel GMC SIERRA DENALI 2003 Workshop Manual

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. See
Operating
Your All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
Off Paved Roads on
page
4-16 for information about driving off-road.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
If you don’t I R down, your -____ 3s COL- ge-
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going
down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope. Coasting
UVwnlll..
..I NEUTRAL (N) G. .... h the
ignition
off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work
of slowing down. They could
get
so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a
hill. You could crash. Always
have your engine running and your vehicle in
gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could
be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an
accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades,
passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or
winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate
action.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
4-37

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction. the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
However,
if there is snow or ice between your tires and Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to
be very careful. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If
or loose snow - drive with caution.
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
m
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer Your
anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. See
Braking on page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery
road.
0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear.
If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
4-39

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
in order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can
help you aet out when you’re stuck, but you must
use cauti
.
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
CAUTION: (Continued) engine compartment fire or other
damage.
When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Don’t spin the wheels above
25 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Nofice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, see
Tire Chains on page 5-68.
4-42

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE
(R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn’t get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery hooks
if your vehicle
has them.
If you do need to be towed out, see Towing
Your Vehicle on page 4-45.
Using the Recovery Hooks
I
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may
need to use them
if you’re stuck off-road and need to
be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
4-43

Towing Loading Your Vehicle
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle
- such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly
towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on
the ground and two wheels up on a device known
as a
“dolly”).
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of
its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be
towed, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-45.
Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two
of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Don’t tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if
any
of its wheels will be on the ground.
COLD TIRE PRESSURE
00
The Certificationflire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver’s door.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight
capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the
weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
4-45

Th.,,ds yo^ pur inside your vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or
in a crash.
Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a
trunk, put them
as far forward as you can.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle
so that some of them
are above the tops of the seats.
Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
There’s also important loading information for off-road
driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle
for Off-Road Driving“ under
Operating Your
All- Wheel-Drive Vehicle Off Paved Roads on page 4- 16.
Payload
Payload capacity is the maximum load capacity that your
vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the
occupants as part of your load.
If you added any accessories or
equipment after your vehicle left the
factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things
from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this.
Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) of the front or rear axle.
Two-Tiered Loading
By positioning four 2’’ x 6’’ wooden planks across the
width of the pickup box, you can create an upper
load platform. The planks must be inserted in the pickup
box depressions. The length of the planks must allow
for at least a
3/4 inch (2 cm) bearing surface on
each end of the plank.
When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is
securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The
load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone
over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area
between the front of each wheel well and the rear of
each wheel well. The center of gravity height must not
extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard.
Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area
must be properly marked according to local laws and
regulations.
Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) of the front or rear axle.
4-47

If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the
CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may
be larger.
Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper
match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR.
After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive
to a
weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels
separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles.
The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more
than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads
should not be more than the GVWR.
Open your driver’s door and look at the Certification/Tire
label to find out your GAWR and GVWR.
If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take
out some things until all the weight falls below the
ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any
loose items when you load your vehicle or camper.
When you install and load your slide-in camper, check
the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you want more information on curb weights, cargo
weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of
gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help
you. Just ask for a copy of ”Consumer Information,
Truck-Camper Loading.”
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for
your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer
attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or
GAWR.
If you are using a weight-distributing hitch,
weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance
if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and
if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, see ”Trailer Towing” in the Index.
Pickup Conversion to
Chassis Cab
General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may
consider having the pickup box removed and
a
commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do
so, first contact GM Customer Assistance for information
on such conversions specific to this vehicle. Owners
should be aware that, as manufactured, there are
differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with
the box removed which may affect vehicle safety.
The components necessary
to adapt a pickup to permit
its safe use with a specialized body should be
installed by a body builder in accordance with the
information available from GM Customer Assistance.
See
Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-4.
4-50

**Maximum Trailer Weight 9,200 Ibs for fifth-wheel or gooseneck.
The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the
total allowable weight of the completely loaded
vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo,
equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle
should not be exceeded.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in
your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information
Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre,
163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa. Ontario L1
H 8P7
Weight of Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. See
Loading Your Vehicle
on page
4-45 for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.
4-54

Making Turns
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible,
have someone guide you.
Your vehicle is equipped with four-wheel steering and
if
you use it while backing your trailer the same rules
apply. However, with four-wheel steering your rig will
respond more quickly and it may take additional practice
to get used to backing up with four-wheel steering.
Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-57

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes
so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE
(5). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD
(3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection
if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode
if the
transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
earlier in this section.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes.
If you turn your
engine
off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine
off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on
page
5-27.
Parking on Hills
m
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-58