steering GMC YUKON DENALI 2003 Owner's Manual

Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens
when the three control systems (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires
meet the road
to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of
less danger.
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond
to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid,
too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid,
too much
throttle causes the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle
to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for
a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll
want
to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions.
It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best
to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting
to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn
to recognize warning
clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road
to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow
down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
4-1 5

Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of
terrain. You need
to be familiar with the terrain and its
many different features. Here are
some things to
consider.
Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over
hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow
or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering,
acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different
ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on,
you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning,
delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking
distances.
Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can
be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle
you
if you’re not prepared for them. Often these
obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even
the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some
things to consider:
0 Is the path ahead clear?
Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
(There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)
Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction
quickly? When you drive
over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or
other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your
hands
if you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles,
your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens,
even with one or two wheels, you can’t control
the vehicle as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of
alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or
signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment
about what is safe and what isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any
road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the
very time you need special alertness and driving
skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You
could have a serious
- or even fatal - accident if you
drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been
drinking. See Drunken Driving
on page 4-2.
4-1 9

Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.
Use a low year and get a firm grip on the
steering wheel.
your speed. Don’t use more power than you
need, because you don’t want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to find
another route.
Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
0 Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you’re there.
Use your headlamps even during the day. They
make
you more visible to oncoming traffic.
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up
hills, always try to go straight up.
Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of
the hill.
Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more
visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills. Driving to the top (crest)
of a hill
a, ,ull speed
can cause an accident. There could be a
drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another
vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed.
As you near the top of a hill, slow down
and stay alert.
Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is
about to stall, and
I can’t make it up the hill?
A: If this happens, there are some things you should
do and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you
should do:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards.
Also, apply the parking
brake.
4-2 1

If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in
REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the
12 o’clock position.
This way, you’ll be able
to tell if your wheels
are straight and maneuver as you back down.
It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel
too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things you
must not do if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N)
to “rev-up” the engine and regain
forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could
go out of control. Instead, apply the
regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE
(R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough
to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t
make it up the hill, you must back straight down
the hill.
Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down
the hill and decide
I just can’t do it. What
should
I do?
A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK
(P) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and
go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would
take
if it rolled downhill.
4-22

Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water
is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles
or exhaust pipe, don’t try
it - you probably won’t
get through. Also, water that deep can damage your
axle and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur
if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that
when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer
to stop.
I
- - - - -ng through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
i could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.
I I
See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-29 for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage.
Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer
to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-27

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However,
if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a
lot less traction or “grip” and will need to
be very careful.
27
3
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
4-38
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s
about freezing
(32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate
too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. See Braking on page
4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake
while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle
has the Stabilitrak@System, turn the system off by
pressing the Stabilitrak@button
so that the STABILITY
SYS DISABLED message and the traction off light
are illuminated on the instrument panel cluster. Then
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn’t get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery hooks
if your vehicle
has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing
Your Vehicle on page 4-44.
Using the Recovery Hoods
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
hooks are provided at the front
of your vehicle. You may
need to use them
if you’re stuck off-road and need to
be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
4-42

Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension comes as a
part of the AutorideTMsuspension. See AutorideTM on
page
4-46.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected
to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle
to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is
activated when the ignition key
is turned to RUN and
will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter.
The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up
to
10 minutes after the ignition key has been turned to
OFF. You may hear the air compressor operating when
the height is being adjusted.
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended
to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the height.
AutorideTM
The AutorideTM feature provides superior vehicle ride
and handling under a variety
of passenger and loading
conditions.
The system is fully automatic and
uses a computer
controller
to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel
to body position, IifVdive and steering position of the
vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock
absorber
to independently adjust the damping level to
provide the optimum vehicle ride.
AutorideTM also interacts with the towlhaul mode that,
when activated, will provide additional control of
the shock absorbers. This additional control results in
better ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle
is loaded or towing a trailer. See "Tow/Haul Mode"
under Towing a Trailer on page
4-47 for more
information.
4-46

Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then,
to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand
to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could
be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about
to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
4-54
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes
so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection
if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want
to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts
too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
under Towing a Trailer
on page 4-47.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes.
If you turn your
engine
off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine
off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating
on
page 5-25.

Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................ 5.3
Doing Your Own Service Work
......................... 5-3
Adding Equipment
to the Outside of Your
Vehicle
.................................................. 5-4
................................................................ Fuel 5.5
Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5.5
Gasoline Specifications ................................... 5-5
California Fuel ............................................... 5-6
Additives
....................................................... 5.6
Fuels in Foreign Countries
............................... 5-6
Filling Your Tank
............................................ 5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5.9
the Hood .................... , .................... 5.10
Hood Release ...................... ................ 5-10
Engine Compartment Overview ....... ......... 5-12
Engine Oil ....................................... ..... 5.13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................. 5.17
Automatic Transmission Fluid ......................... 5-20
Engine Coolant ......................................... 5-22
Checking Things Under
~~
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ............... 5-25
Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-25
Cooling System ............................................ 5.28
Engine Fan Noise ......................................... 5.33
Power Steering Fluid
..................................... 5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid
................................ 5.34
Brakes
........................................................ 5.36
Battery
........................................................ 5-39
Jump Starting
............................................... 5.40
All-Wheel Drive .............................................. 5.46
Rear Axle .................................. .......... 5-48
Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5-49
Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5-49
Headlamps
.................................................. 5-49
Running Lamps
......................................... 5-50
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) ......... 5-52
Taillamps ..................................................... 5-52
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 5.53
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime
5- 1