wheel GMC YUKON DENALI 2010 Repair Manual

Driving in Water
{WARNING:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe —you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.
If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine. When
going through water, remember that when the brakes
get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain
and on Wet Roads on page 5‑24.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
5-23

{WARNING:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down and they could
get so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none going
down a hill. You could crash. Always have the
engine running and the vehicle in gear when
going downhill.
.Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that
let you stay in your own lane.
.Top of hills: Be alert—something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
.Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
See Off-Road Driving
on page 5‑12for information
about driving off-road.
Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 5‑4improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a
slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when
on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a
curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
5-27

To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine
off and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to
keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal
slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed.
This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle
and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as
little as possible to save fuel.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5‑30.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{WARNING:
If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. The
vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
see Tire Chains on page 6‑78.
5-29

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes
a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does
not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to
be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the
vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed
out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 5‑37.
Recovery Hooks
{WARNING:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it
would not be covered by warranty.
Your vehicle has recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle. You can use them if you are stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
5-30

Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/
retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled
vehicle must be towed. SeeRoadside Assistance
Program on page 8‑7.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome,
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
If the vehicle has a two–mode hybrid engine, see the
Two–mode Hybrid manual for more information.
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle–such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing”(towing the vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
.What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer's
recommendations.
.What is the distance that will be travelled? Some
vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long
they can tow.
.Is the proper towing equipment going to be used?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional
for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
.Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. See
Before Leaving on a
Long Trip on page 5‑25.
5-37

All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Dinghy and Dolly Towing
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
with any of its wheels on the ground.
All-wheel-drive vehicles are not designed to be towed
with any wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be
towed, see Towing Your Vehicle previously.
5-38

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Dinghy Towing
Notice:If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
the vehicle warranty. Do not tow a two-wheel-drive
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
To dolly tow a two‐wheel‐drive vehicle, the vehicle must
be towed with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Dolly
Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” following.
5-39

Dolly Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground)
Notice:If a two-wheel-drive vehicle is towed with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the
vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the
rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
Dolly Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle from the rear:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer's instructions.
2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.
3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake
on page 3‑36.
4. Put the transmission in P (Park).
5-40

5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following themanufacturer's instructions.
6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked
into the straight position.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
Level Control
Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on light‐duty vehicles and comes as a part of the
Autoride
®suspension, if equipped.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to
maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated
when the ignition key is turned to ON/RUN and will
automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The
system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to
ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off.
You may hear the air compressor operating when the
height is being adjusted.
If a weight‐distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
Autoride®
With this feature, improved vehicle ride and handling is
provided under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions.
The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel
to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the
vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock
absorber to independently adjust the damping level to
provide the optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride also interacts with the tow/haul mode that,
when activated, will provide additional control of the
shock absorbers. This additional control results in better
ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is
loaded or towing a trailer. See “Tow/Haul Mode”under
Towing a Trailer
on page 5‑42for more information.
5-41

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is very important
because it is also part of the vehicle weight. The Gross
Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will
be riding in the vehicle as well as trailer tongue weight.
Vehicle options, equipment, passengers and cargo in
the vehicle reduce the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer
weight the vehicle can tow. SeeLoading the Vehicle
on
page 5‑31for more information about the vehicle's
maximum load capacity.
Trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent and fifth wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight
should be 15 to 25 percent of the loaded trailer weight
up to the maximums for vehicle series and hitch type
shown below:
Vehicle Series Hitch Type Maximum
Tongue Weight
1500 Weight Carrying 272 kg (600 lbs)
1500 Weight Distributing 499 kg (1,100 lbs)
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that
will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will
help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the
rear axle.
5-45