GMC YUKON XL 2007 Owners Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total
or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and
the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers
or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue
weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow.
And if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle
will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading
Your Vehicle for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight,
up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a
weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue
weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent
of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum
of 1,000 lbs (453 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a
maximum of 1,500 lbs (680 kg) for the 2500 series
with a weight distributing hitch.
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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue
weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch
extension that will position the hitch ball closest
to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect
of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.
After you have loaded the trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they are not, you may be
able to get them right by moving some items
around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to
carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot
cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear
Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional
weight may reduce your trailering capacity more
than the total of the additional weight.Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is
5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg)
at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the
rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a
RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR
(Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs
(6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least
10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and
because the weight is applied well behind the rear
axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than
just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as
much. The weight at the rear axle could be
850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since
the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg),
adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to
3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within
the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to
trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
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But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front
seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with
some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well.
You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front
axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle
weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity
to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer
would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may
go further and think you must limit tongue weight
to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid
exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle
now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put
900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without
exceeding RGAWR.The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the
actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by
1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only
600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue
weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded
trailer weight, you can expect that the largest
trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers
on the Certication label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 390for more information. Then be sure you
don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make
sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before
you apply the weight distribution spring bars.
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you will need the
right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the trailer
to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to
use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size. This equipment
is very important for proper vehicle loading and
good handling when driving. Always use a sway
control if the trailer will weigh more than these
limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway
controls.
(A) Body to Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle
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Safety Chains
You should always attach safety chains between
your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer to help
prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch.
Attach the safety chains to the attaching point on
the hitch platform. If you are towing with an
aftermarket hitch, following the trailer or hitch
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®,
your trailer cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic
brake system.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand
3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inches (0.3 cc) of uid from your
vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both
braking systems won’t work well. You could
even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the
uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing
for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO. It can
cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 155. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
Do not use the climate control setting
for maximum air because it only
recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
SeeClimate Control System on
page 210.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added
weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that
the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal
longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will
ash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary,
a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too
often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode
if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul
Mode” earlier in this section for more information.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at
or near sea level will boil at a lower temperature
than at higher altitudes. If you turn your engine off
immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating.To avoid this, let the engine run while parked
(preferably on level ground) with the automatic
transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before
turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 452.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
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3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in
NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your
vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in
PARK (P) with the parking brake rmly
set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the
vehicle can move suddenly. You or others
could be injured. To be sure your vehicle
will not move, even when you are on fairly
level ground, use the steps that follow.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK
(P) with the parking brake rmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will
be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is
in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of
the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (don’t overll), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you nd them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring
harnesses for towing a trailer.
Basic Trailer Wiring
The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin
connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and
is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness
connector can be plugged into a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector available
through your dealer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed*
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuses for these two circuits are installed in
the underhood electrical center, but the wires
are not connected. They should be connected by
your dealer or a qualied service center.
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